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2010 DTS
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I like the console floor shift so much that I installed a DTS console with floor shift in my DHS.

My DHS had an EXIT button, much like the EASY EXIT feature on this car, but the DHS would not go back into the drivers memory position until the car was started so you had easy entry as well. This car, it goes back to memory position when the door is unlocked with the key fob. It makes no sense at all. If I want EASY EXIT, doesn't it make sense that I would also want EASY ENTRY? What in the hell was Cadillac thinking?

Also unable to program the Homelink to my garage door opener. Looks like I am going to have to carry the hand held transmitter. At least that is a little easier to live with.

I also noted (and like) the upper motor mount. No more need for my home made torque struts.

Cooled seats and heated steering wheel are new to me and I'm sure I'm gonna like that feature.

The only real defect is the cup holder sliding door. Apparently, the previous owner must have left the sun roof shade open and the sun took it's toll on the rubber cover. It's all cracked. I'm going to have to figure out if I can get a replacement or make a new cover for it.
 

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For the Homelink, it’s almost a 2 person job...

There’s a button on the garage door opener you have to press, usually next to the light.

1. Program button in DTS
2. Press button on opener
3. You have 30 seconds to get back in the car and press & hold the programmed button.
GM completely changed the memory system on this car, it no longer remembers radio presets or climate settings. Very frustrating.
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 🙄
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Congrats!
Great interior/exterior color combination (y)
 

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No buttons on my door openers. These are ancient Sears openers.
They must be. I have Sears opener from 1983 and it has the button on top of the unit.
Still works great.
 
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2011 DTS
2011 DTS Luxury II
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68 Posts
The old HomeLink protocols used in the DTS are no longer supported by the manufacturing sector. You can get a converter box for your garage that acts a translator between the car and your garage door head unit.

Link the car to the converter, and then link the converter to the door opener.
 

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2006 DTS perf
2006 DTS Performance Lux III
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The old HomeLink protocols used in the DTS are no longer supported by the manufacturing sector. You can get a converter box for your garage that acts a translator between the car and your garage door head unit.

Link the car to the converter, and then link the converter to the door opener.
I had to do that for the new replacement door opener. But the other door still has the older opener so I can program the DTS to open it.
 

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2010 DTS
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
They must be. I have Sears opener from 1983 and it has the button on top of the unit.
Still works great.
Yeah, one is from '76 and the other is from '81. Strangely enough though, the owners manual only talks about a "smart learn" button on the newer rolling code type openers. It makes no mention of any button on the old toggle switch code types.

Not that big of a deal though, as the DTS will have to live in the driveway, so I'll just keep the old hand held transmitter in the console. The door opener woulld only be used if I went out and forgot house keys. I'd like to move my wife's older Buick outside, but then life would be unbearable.
 

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They don't make openers like those anymore. My 2nd unit (also '83) needed a part that I couldn't source, so I had to bite the bullet and buy a new one. I like the Craftsman opener better.

Again, congrats on the new whip--it looks super clean.
Someone bought it ten years ago and barely broke it in for you.
 

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2011 DTS Premium w/1SD | 1999 Deville Base (RIP @179K Miles)
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579 Posts
WOW! Congrats Ranger! I've been on the forum a while and I knew it would be big news that you got a DTS! Look forward to answering any questions you have just as you have with the forum.

Here are some of the newer things the DTS has over the old models.

-Drive by wire. There's no more throttle cable and the throttle flap is controlled electronically. No more cruise control module needed since it's done electronically

-Dual piston calipers for the front brakes

-Different Cooling Fan operation. The DTS also uses the AC High Side pressure sensor to turn on the cooling fans. The temperature gauge is less dampened and moves more frequently.

-There's a separate module that controls the transmission: the TCM. Its that sliver thing mounted on the drivers strut area

-No more fuel filter, and Fuel pressure regulator. Those are in the fuel tank.

-Electronically, the car uses the CAN bus. But you can still use the Tech 2 with it.

-Turn signal flashers are all computer controlled. There's no flasher module

-Ignition Coils can be changed individually. You don't need to replace an entire bank. Spark plugs are the same 41-987

-New remotes can be programmed on the dash, You don't need a scan tool anymore.

-Theres only a single crankshaft sensor and that's in the intake manifold.

-These came with Dexron VI from the factory

-Stabilitrak is standard equipment

-Strut mount for the engine so the lower mounts aren't stressed.

-No more intake plenum that goes bad.


However there are some things that were removed from the older models.

-No more onboard diagnostics. You'll have to buy a scan tool to read codes

-The coolant level sensors and oil level sensors were removed. Early 06 DTS models did have an oil level sensor but not anymore. So you'll need to keep an eye on those fluid levels.

-The water pump design changed. It bolts on to the crossover instead of locking in. To change it, you'll have to remove the whole crossover. A big PITA

-The coolant cap has a different design that wears out faster than older models. It uses an O ring to maintain pressure. This O ring gets worn over time and causes a bunch of overheating issues. Definitely get a new cap.

-The 3rd brake light is prone to stress cracks and individual LEDs stop lighting. Reverse lights are LED also and not serviceable

-You might need to use synthetic oil instead of conventional. GM signed a business deal with Mobil to ship the DTS with Mobil 1 oil. However, I haven't seen any engineering studies since the guru's that prove synthetic is better for the Northstar.

-You might need to use Premium fuel. This is debatable, but I have noticed more throttle response with Premium gas.


Last here are some things which carried over from the older models.

They use the same rear shocks. Monroe MA822. If you look under the rear, structurally, it's the same as the 00+ Devilles.

Same water pump tensioner and belt. Its easier to change those since no AIR pump bracket is in the way.


There's probably more to this list but this is what I can think of. Enjoy your DTS! I love mine!
 

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2010 DTS
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Holy shit Batman! I thought I knew Cadillacs and Northstars, but you just set me back to a newbe.
Thanks for the updates.

Not sure how I feel about drive by wire. One more thing to fail. Never had a problem with the old tried and true cable system.

Dual piston caliper is something I was unaware of. Not sure why, but I haven't really noticed any difference in braking......yet

I liked the "less dampened" coolant gauge. I'll have to watch more closely.

No easyaly accessible fuel filter or FPR! Yikes!

No flasher module is probably a plus, though they rarely ever failed.

I was aware of the individual coils. That is a plus for sure.

Not sure how I feel about the CKP sensor being inside the intake manifold.

Coolant and oil level sensors removed? Well that sucks. Thanks a lot Cadillac.

WP redesign sounds like another down grade. I guess my home made WP socket is one more thing I have that I no longer need. Sure hope I never have to change that SOB.

Coolant cap redesign is good to know. Thank You.

I did notice that the oil filler cap says "Mobil 1". Can't help but wonder how much Mobil payed Cadillac for that bit of advertising. Gotta admit, it is great marketing.
I noticed that the owners manual says to use 5W30 (as did the previous Northstars). The strange thing is that my '03 said that 10W30 was OK from something like 0°F on up, but this manual specifically says NOT to use 20W50 or 10W40, but never mentions 10W30. I find that rather odd. 5W has always seemed rather thin to me. Probably just me being old school. I'm sure there is no problem with 5W, but I think I will probably stick with 10W conventional. Used it for 110,000 miles on my '03 with no problems.

Once again, thanks for the differences. Hope I can remember them all.
 

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2010 DTS
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I cleaned the TB today. Pleasantly surprised that there was no carbon. Just a little soot that wiped right off.

Looking around to try and familiarize myself with it, I noticed one A/C service port on the firewall. I'm almost afraid to ask, where did they hide the other one?
 

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2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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If you're antsy about 5W-30 for the newer Northstars you'd go bananas over the 5W-20 recommended for most Ford cars and light trucks.

I run the dog snot out of the 2002 on occasion and it's perfectly happy on 5W-30 summerfallwinterspring.
 

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2011 DTS Premium w/1SD | 1999 Deville Base (RIP @179K Miles)
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So I cleaned the TB today. Pleasantly surprised that there was no carbon. Just a little soot that wiped right off.

Looking around to try and familiarize myself with it, I noticed one A/C service port on the firewall. I'm almost afraid to ask, where did they hide the other one?
Yup. This throttle body doesnt get dirty. I took a picture of mine at 94K miles and there was barley any carbon. I'd be weary about manually pushing open the butterfly valve as this could mess up the internal position sensors and motors that operate it. But you should be fine.

The Low side service port is along the firewall now. The highside port is next to front fuse block on the passenger side. Just remove the fuse block cover and you'll see it.

Also a couple more things on the DTS.

-Theres no more drain petcock on the radiator. If you want to change the coolant, you'll have to remove the lower radiator hose. Another way is to remove the purge line hose from the tank and re-route it to a bucket. Start the car and pour coolant in the tank while the purge line is draining into the bucket. Its not as effective a drain and fill, but you can still change most of the coolant this way.

-The heated/cooled seat module is finicky on this car. The power pin on the module is undersized and has a tendency to melt the connector and pin. At some point you may have to remove the passenger seat and "fix" the power wire on the module. Your car has low miles so it shouldn't be a problem now, but its something to keep in mind. There's a lot of documentation on fixing the module when it does happen.

-You'll have to drop/loosen the front bumper to change the headlights. For the turn signals, I think it is possible to do under the hood, but its tricky. It's not a huge hassle to remove the bumper but it is a PITA considering the old models didn't require that to change the lights.

-The battery is still under the back seat and is now a top post battery. Early DTS models still had the Group 79 batteries, but in 2008/2009 they switched to Group 94 batteries.
 

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2011 DTS Premium w/1SD | 1999 Deville Base (RIP @179K Miles)
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Ah Dont Worry! I bought my 2011 DTS Two years ago with 80K Miles. I now have 113K miles. The only real things that "broke" on the car since I bought it was the battery (8 years old), A caliper and a wheel bearing. The bearing just made a small noise and never triggered the ABS light or anything.

The check engine light has never come on since I bought it knocks on wood

I've done all the preventive maintenance like changing trans fluid, WP tensioner and belt along with the coolant. All the stuff you've recommended over the years for the Northstar. My car runs excellent and I love it.

May I ask why you got rid of your 2003 Deville?
 
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