[Theaccountingman]

So I am going to be a new owner of a 2001 deville dts. 63000miles. Was used as a vip transport for a funeral home. It was meticulously cared for and maintained. Always garage kept. I am buying for $1000.

I have read that the Northstar is a potential time bomb. How do I prevent this? Any other issues I need to have the garage look at before I pick it up?
Thanks Dave

 

[orconn]

Re: New to forum

Hello, Dave, don't lose any sleep worrying about the Northstar's propensity for head gasket failure; many more of these engines have given good and long service without this problem. Just continue to give your Cadillac good maintenance and you should enjoy many more miles of quality car travel. My 1995 Northstar powered Seville STS will be 20 years old this year, I have owned it for 11 years. With good care your DTS should give you good service.

 

[ratmonster]

Re: New to forum

Orconn is right about the maintenance. People who beat their cars to death or don't change the fluids will read what they sow, for sure. I would definitely recommend checking the coolant system, and make sure that if it is serviced, it is ONLY serviced with the appropriate type antifreeze for your vehicle (I would image that would be Dex-Cool, but I can't be certain.) Don't make the mistake of buying "mix with any kind" antifreeze, it doesn't work correctly in your car if your car is Dex-Cool. Also, don't walk into Pep Boys and say "I need pink/green/blue antifreeze, because it isn't universally broken down by color. Chrysler and Volkswagen sold their cars with pink coolant, but they're different products.

Other than that, I don't know of any reason you should be worried about driving a Northstar-powered car. From everything I've heard, they are fun and responsive. They are also nice looking! Just do your maintenance, and pay extra attention to the cooling system.

Welcome, from another new guy! I'm quite sure you'll like it here!!!

 

[talismandave]

Re: New to forum

Spending some of that "tax season" money Theaccountingman?:hmm:

Sounds like a great deal. Take good care of it and have fun.

:welcome:

 

[MrHolland]

Re: New to forum

Congrats and welcome!!

 

[Ranger]

Re: New to forum

:welcome:

The car came with Dex-Cool, but any coolant will work.

I have read that the Northstar is a potential time bomb.

The Northstars of the '90's had HG (head bolt thread) problems. GM lengthened the had bolts in 2000 and the failure rate dropped way down.

Read up on the Technical Archives at the upper left of the page (in the black bar).

 

[77CDV]

Re: New to forum

:welcome:

 

[Theaccountingman]

Re: New to forum

Thanks for all the information. Hope to pick up Caddy in a week or two. I will post pics when I can. Also will let all know about the garage visit and what, if anything, they find wrong with it.

 

[Paul London]

Re: New to forum

Ratmonster is right when he warns about buyin antifreeze by colour (sorry, color!) but not sure about Ranger's "any antifreeze will work" philosophy: my understanding was that that Dex-Cool (& its true equivalents) wouldn't mix with even traces of traditional mixes (or vice versa) as they would gel & clog rads & water passages. Or was that just another scare story of the sort that always circulates when something new/different comes on the market (or, more often, introduced by a car manufacturer when there is no alternative on the market?

This original post (& OP's follow-up) is another that intrigues me as highlighting differences between how things work in our countries. Here, if you bought a car in this price bracket, you'd be expected to go cash in hand - &, assuming you liked what you saw, take it away with you. As for taking it to a garage, you just wouldn't: a friend - or even the guy down the street that works on his own car, maybe.

 

[Theaccountingman]

Re: New to forum

Hey everyone, it has been awhile since I have posted but it wasn't until two days ago that I was able to pick up the Caddy. 2001 Deville DTS. Super clean in and out. Here is some of what happened since last post in March. I bought the car as it without seeing it (funeral home Caddy and I am good friends with owner) the car was out of state. The Caddy was started, backed out of garage and from there would not start. It would turn over but not start up. I bought in that condition for $1000. I assumed it was a fuel issue. I called a local garage in that state and asked them to check it. I explained the issue and made an assumption that it was a fuel pump. Turns out that I was right. The car sat for some time until I was able to go down and get it. Brought it back and had a new pump installed. Car runs great!. I do love the Caddy.

It burns oil but I haven't had it long enough to calculate consumption rates yet but see that it is a common issue. I am curious however about the coolant concerns that I see posted on this thread. I don't expect anyone to respond to lengthy coolant talk, maybe someone can direct me to the thread that I assume exists. Basically I am looking for coolant acceptance loss if there is some, oil as well. I am not going to spend $2000 on a motor or other expensive work on a $1000 car. I am willing however to remove and replace coolant as needed. Or any treatments that may assist. If the motor goes it goes.

Looks like I need to have someone clear the codes, the "service fuel system" warning message is now popping up since the pump was removed/replaced.

I am sure I will have other questions as time goes on. I expect issues with the car. After all it is 14 years old and cost $1000. It is the condition of the car that sold me, garaged it's entire life, NO rust anywhere. Underneath is super clean and the interior is almost new. Like I said, it was used to transport VIPS and they had to keep it taken care of.

I am ready to immerse myself in some reading if someone has quick ways for me to look for more of the common issues with this one.

If anyone has questions let me know, I will do the best I can to answer them.
Dave

 

[basscatt]

Re: New to forum

Looks like I need to have someone clear the codes
the "service fuel system" warning message is now popping up
since the pump was removed/replaced.

you can check - and clear your own codes -
using the on-board scanner -

if you don't know how - go here -
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...ldorado-forum/138258-how-pull-codes-dtcs.html

post any codes you have -
ALONG WITH THEIR DEFINITIONS -

for code definitions - go here -
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html

------------------------------

the "service fuel system" warning message is now popping up
since the pump was removed/replaced.
keep in mind that clearing the codes doesn't FIX anything -

and service fuel system is a warning message - not a code -
although there will probably be a stored code associated with it -


I am ready to immerse myself in some reading
if someone has quick ways for me to look for more of the common issues with this one.
rather than concerning yourself with some "common issues" -
I suggest you concentrate on the issues at hand -

pull YOUR codes -
post them here -
indicate whether they are Current - or History -
and be sure to include the CODE DEFINITIONS -

you can find the definitions here -
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html

 

[Theaccountingman]

Re: New to forum

Thanks Basscatt,

I will pull some codes and post them here with definitions.

 

[Submariner409]

Good morning, Now that you have your DTS and are asking specific service questions the thread has been moved to the FWD Deville forum.

----------

I am ready to immerse myself in some reading if someone has quick ways for me to look for more of the common issues with this one.

Always study the sticky posts in any forum of interest. Become familiar with the Cadillac Tech Tips and "Engines; Northstar forums. Study the entire Cadillac Technical Archive way up ^^^ in the top black bar - it was written by GM Northstar System engineers. Read the owner's manual - twice (All of it). Subscribe the car to a multi-year login to www.alldatadiy.com - it's the GM/Cadillac service manuals plus a LOT more - especially when you become familiar with the right column on your vehicle's home page.

 

[Theaccountingman]

Thanks for the information Submariner409.

Looks like I will be doing a lot of reading and hopefully understanding.

Here are the codes that were pulled H= History, C=Current.

C1277-H
C1287-H
C1288-H
B1327-H
B2810-H
P1531-H
U1300-H
U1301-H
B1301-C
B0429-C
B1004-H
B1327-H
U1000-H
U1064-H
U1065-H
U1164-H
U1016-H
B1845-H
B1860-H
P0230-C
P1571-H

I think that is all of them, they come at you pretty fast.

 

[Submariner409]

Here's the link to definitions of your codes. We haven't memorized all of them yet ......... You can directly click on any of the P, B, C or U links in the heading boxs or you can also study the information down further.

Now that you have got into the onboard DTC scanner/memory, and noticed that codes/modules scroll pretty quickly, here's a trick. When the DIC asks ALL CODES ? answer NO. The DIC will ask - in alphabetical porder for modules - ABS ? Answer YES. Any ABS codes will appear. You will now be asked if you wish to go to the next module. Continue to scroll through modules, performing actions with each set of codes as you wish. At end of the last alphabetical module readout you will be asked CLEAR ALL CODES ? Answer accordingly.

Turn the key OFF to exit the diagnostic.

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html

 

[ratmonster]

I've read a bunch of posts about these cars that say that the oil burning problem can be helped by driving the car WOT (wide open throttle) on occasion, and I think the other trick is putting about 6 quarts oil in it instead of the 7 that is recommended, because it'll drink that seventh quart. I'd direct you to the threads that talk about those situations, but you'll probably find them before I will.

The coolant issue: most people would recommend that you flush the coolant system. That is probably the best option. However, I believe one of the old-timers on the site says he replaces his in increments. Drain radiator, refill with 50/50 Dex-Cool, do it again at some point in time. Might not be the "right" way, but if you did that, at least you'd have some new fluid, no doubt raising the boiling point and lowering the freezing point of what is in the car at the moment at least. That is what I plan on doing before winter.

 

[Submariner409]

The oil fill thing - GM/Cadillac specifically says that anything over 7.5 quarts - or the middle X's on the dipstick - is overfilled and the PCV ststem will dutifully burn off the excess in a hurry. If you carry your Northstar oil level at the top X or <-- mark on the dipstick it is overfilled. Read the link in the sticky on piston ring cleaning in the Engines; Northstar forum, P.3, top.

I don't drain the radiator - every 3 months I siphon off exactly 2 quarts of coolant from the surge tank and replace it with new 50/50 (I mix my own). Here's what comes out. I have converted the car and truck over to the new bright yellow Prestone Long Life coolant. Same results.

 

[basscatt]

Thanks for the information Submariner409.

Looks like I will be doing a lot of reading and hopefully understanding.

Here are the codes that were pulled H= History, C=Current.

C1277-H
C1287-H
C1288-H
B1327-H
B2810-H
P1531-H
U1300-H
U1301-H
B1301-C
B0429-C
B1004-H
B1327-H
U1000-H
U1064-H
U1065-H
U1164-H
U1016-H
B1845-H
B1860-H
P0230-C
P1571-H

I think that is all of them, they come at you pretty fast.

=======================================

:wtf:where are the :cursin: DEFINITIONS - :dammit::mob:

----------

Here's the link to definitions of your codes. We haven't memorized all of them yet ......... You can directly click on any of the P, B, C or U links in the heading boxs or you can also study the information down further.

Now that you have got into the onboard DTC scanner/memory, and noticed that codes/modules scroll pretty quickly, here's a trick. When the DIC asks ALL CODES ? answer NO. The DIC will ask - in alphabetical porder for modules - ABS ? Answer YES. Any ABS codes will appear. You will now be asked if you wish to go to the next module. Continue to scroll through modules, performing actions with each set of codes as you wish. At end of the last alphabetical module readout you will be asked CLEAR ALL CODES ? Answer accordingly.

Turn the key OFF to exit the diagnostic.

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html

===============================

Turn the key OFF to exit the diagnostic.
you can also get out of diagnostics - leaving the ignition on -
by hitting the ENG/MET button twice -

----------

I've read a bunch of posts about these cars that say that the oil burning problem can be helped by driving the car WOT (wide open throttle) on occasion, and I think the other trick is putting about 6 quarts oil in it instead of the 7 that is recommended, because it'll drink that seventh quart. I'd direct you to the threads that talk about those situations, but you'll probably find them before I will.

The coolant issue: most people would recommend that you flush the coolant system. That is probably the best option. However, I believe one of the old-timers on the site says he replaces his in increments. Drain radiator, refill with 50/50 Dex-Cool, do it again at some point in time. Might not be the "right" way, but if you did that, at least you'd have some new fluid, no doubt raising the boiling point and lowering the freezing point of what is in the car at the moment at least. That is what I plan on doing before winter.

==================================
I've read a bunch of posts about these cars
that say that the oil burning problem can be helped
by driving the car WOT (wide open throttle) on occasion

the WOT PROCEDURE - can help reduce oil burning -

simply flooring it - while fun - won't help anything -

the PROCEDURE is to put it in 2nd gear -
continue accelerating until the engine RPM approaches REDLINE -
then take your foot off the gas -
and let the engine slow the car down to around 30 mph -
do this several times -

the THEORY is that the deceleration - in 2nd gear -
creates an extremely high internal engine vacuum -
and unload the pressure from the top of the pistons -

this will suck more oil up onto the cylinder walls -
and "flush out" pits of carbon/crud from the piston rings -

the freed up rings will have a tighter fit -
and do a better job of wiping down the cylinder walls -