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Me! hehehe....

Okay, here's the deal. I've partnered with a machinist friend who has been professionally boring throttle bodies for any number of years. This guy does amazing work. Sent him my TB and he got it bored to 80mm like RSM offers for a bajillion dollars.

In the next week, he should know how much work it will be to get the spacer bored out (I just sent it to him).

Anyways, once I get a few in stock ready to ship, they will be $200 with your good TB sent in as a core. You're welcome to just order it, and send back the core at your leisure, but it will be an extra $100 deposit to make sure I get your core back (need those cores!). The spacer will be $75, with a $50 core if you don't send yours in first. Both will be cleaned and bored to 80mm, which means your gasket may need trimming on installation. The stock intake manifold is just about 80mm, so this is the largest you can go without porting your intake. Shipping is $10 for anything in the lower 48.

PLEASE NOTE - the above pricing is for 96-99 throttle bodies. No others have been tried yet, but 93-95 throttle bodies should be available shortly.

I may offer a one time discount of $50 to someone to have this dyno'd on their 300hp northstar. The condition is you have to swap it out *that day* and run a wix (stock paper type, but flows more) or k&n filter (stock, or cone) both times.

Here's one report from a person who got one for the 4.0L (this is WITHOUT the bored spacer, he got this later):


MORE INFO: First, the dyno was a "Dyno-Jet Chassis Dynamometer". I asked the guy who was working with me, Aaron, how many times he's done this. Easily 200 times +, he's worked there for 4 years and went two UTI (Hot Rod Instutite), they have 2 dynos. Just checking credentials. Check out the shops website, http://www.apgperformance.com/
At first on the dyno I started with the gear shifter in 3rd like everbody said, PROBLEM, it would shift into overdrive spiking the reading. It took a 6 runs to figure out, start in second, start rolling wait till it shifted to 3rd, then GO. The first Time I got it two stay in 3rd to redline was my 7th, run. 190 hp-???ft-lbs tourque run, and about 40, minutes later, I wanted to get part-swaping. I saw the graph on the screen -peak Hp 190-, and didn't want another thinking of garnes 189Hp run. Don't remember the Torque #. Damn-it. Should of run-again, didn't know that the graph would crap-out on that one run.
So it took 7runs to figure out the shifting thing.
190.0 Hp & ???Torque -Baseline- Garnes Baseline 189HP & 204 Torque
Next two runs with RSM's Intake w/ K&N cone
198.3HP & 202.9 Torque
195.7HP & 199.0 Torque
Added RSM's bored 80mm Throttle Body
205.0HP & 214.3 Torque
206.7HP & 214.0 Torque
I Think this is a pretty accurate and repeatable. Maybe the torque #'s could be a little higher, but they're consistent. As far as the ??? torque numbers for my baseline, I haven't crunched a number that I like yet. I only said a loss before with the intake, because I used Garnes percentage Torque loss # of .7846 for all the estimated torque numbers at the crank. Maybe my car for some reason has just a little less torque than Garnes, or the dyno read low, or His dyno read high, the weather conditions, the gravitational pull of Mars was aligned with Uranius, I dunno, but the #'s are repeatble and can be compared to eachother. I probably gained some torque with the intake along with the +8.3HP I gained because my baseline tourque was less than his 204 torque baseline. If you compare his numbers to mine, Garnes 196.1 HP & 227.5 torque to my 195.7HP & 199.0 torque- +.4HP difference and +28.5 torque difference, hum, http://www.anglefire.com/stars/mycaddy/4airboxtest.htm
Anyways, I'm very happy with my 272HP Aurora gain of +21.9HP. It is definitly a noticeable gain. I can feel a little more in the low end, but the high end pulls MUCH HARDER!!! I would recomend RSMracings products, I've had good results with their intake and TB and with their Strut Tower Bar too. Caddyinfo's results of under hood cone's show a dynoed loss on one Caddy, seems like it works for us 4.0's if done/made right. I'm really impressed with how much power could be added by forcing/allowing more air into these Northstars, can't wait to find out how much more power can be un-leashed with a freeier flowing exhaust, a Corsa straigh-thru exhaust for me. Next-Do I get a Hi-Flow cat too? Hum, leaning towards no but I'm keeping my options open. Can't wait till the fall Corsa Install, I'm so there.
Garnes-Air box bottom will be gone shortly, that one srew sure looks like its through the bottom up. I'll take your word and MUSCLE it out. Now what about the collector with the 3 slots going in to the fender? Hollow out the 3slots-make one big slot? Then put a 4in hose around it going down, drill hole for hose to stick out right under/behind air dam? Hum, I'm thinking about it. I live in Elmhurst,IL.
Throttle body re-placement, I'd be glad to copy the service manual section on throttle body replacement for anybody and the list of tools needed, Mostly star keys T-20 ect. It's all step by step. Taking it out wasn't too bad, just took time and patience. Added difficulty when engine is HOT, not recomended if you can't take the pain.
So, Questions? Comments? Concerns?
Us 4.6L guys (especially 300hp) should make even larger improvements, as mccowden's datalog showed, the stock intake is a restriction in the upper rpms. BUT, unlike better flowing filters, boring the throttle body improves torque *across the board*. The instant you step on it, you're flowing more air. This should be seen in the dyno (which I hope to do myself, and hope to get someone else to do independently)

So, what do you guys think? Is this a worthwhile investment of time, money, energy, etc etc? Is there any interest? :bouncy:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Thanks to the Admin/Mods who put my post back :) And also thanks for keeping the forums up. My monetary support to officially become a vendor was a small price to pay for the help I've received over the years...

Also to those who may be interested, please PM me. There is a large anticipated demand, so this will be done first come/first served. Backorders are probable. Thanks for your support,

:alchi:
 

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Can you do these for the 1995-1999 auroras too? I wont be paying RSM $400 for 80mm TB, but i want one badly. I need more power out of my small V8.
 

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1995 ETC, 75 Deville, Cad500 powered 73 Apollo, 94 Mark VIII
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Hmm... well dyno time is 80/hr, a $50 discount would almost cover that. I have a wix filter...

But alas I'm not made of money and picking up a 500, a 472, a TH400, and a switch pitch TH425 is what's gonna suck up my money this month.
 

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'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
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Hmm.....where in Florida are you. I'm moving down there in about 12 days, and if I have the money, I'd be willing to subject my car to a few dyno runs. I was interested in the 80mm throttle body, but it was always so damn expensive. I've always been curious to see what this car will put down at the wheels too. It's good to see someone going the extra mile to do something like this, especially since RSM charges out the ass for all there parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
auroradude said:
Can you do these for the 1995-1999 auroras too? I wont be paying RSM $400 for 80mm TB, but i want one badly. I need more power out of my small V8.
Yes, the throttle bodies for the 4.0 auroras are the same part number as the 4.6L caddies.

danbuc said:
Hmm.....where in Florida are you. I'm moving down there in about 12 days, and if I have the money, I'd be willing to subject my car to a few dyno runs. I was interested in the 80mm throttle body, but it was always so damn expensive. I've always been curious to see what this car will put down at the wheels too. It's good to see someone going the extra mile to do something like this, especially since RSM charges out the ass for all there parts.
I'm just outside of orlando :) Yeah, RSM charges $460 for the throttle body and spacer + shipping. I charge $285 shipped. Just pretend you got a 40% off coupon :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
JSMeloche said:
Can you ship to Canada? Im interested in this mod ;)
absolutely! I checked with USPS, and there isn't much difference at all in postage. So the price will be the same.
 

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That looks pretty nice. I'm actually moving right into Orlando, so I won't be too far away.
 

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What's the difference with the 2000-up Northstar throttle bodies? Any plans to bore them as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
caddydaddy said:
What's the difference with the 2000-up Northstar throttle bodies? Any plans to bore them as well?
I don't know much about those, there are currently no plans for the 2000+... And I'm not secure enough financially to start a new venture ;)

We'll see after I sell a couple dozen of these first... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
danbuc said:
That looks pretty nice. I'm actually moving right into Orlando, so I won't be too far away.
awesome. stop by sometime and see the northstar fiero :yup:

To keep everyone updated, I will (should) have 3 throttle bodies, and 1 spacer in stock ready to ship next week.
 

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Sweet, I always wanted to see a N* in a fiero upclose. I always see pics and stuff on the net, but never got a good look at one. I'll be sure to stop by and check it out when I get down there.
 

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Eldorado1, this looks fantastic. I want to see if anyone else buys them here first, and if they have good results, you better believe im going to buy one. The dyno machine around here is 50 miles away (used to be 4 miles but they moved) unfortunately. And they were like 30 bucks to do it.

This is the exact alternative to the RSM TB right? Its measured exactly 80mm? It has to work the same then, i dont see how it would be any different than RSM's. Thanks for taking on this task..it will be really appreciated once people buy it and find that it adds power.
 

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eldorado1 said:
absolutely! I checked with USPS, and there isn't much difference at all in postage. So the price will be the same.
Great!!! ill wait for 93-95 to be ready ;) Hope they will be in the spring héhé
 

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Discussion Starter #17
auroradude said:
This is the exact alternative to the RSM TB right? Its measured exactly 80mm? It has to work the same then, i dont see how it would be any different than RSM's. Thanks for taking on this task..it will be really appreciated once people buy it and find that it adds power.
Yep, it would be hard to make them any different... there might be more than one way to skin a cat, but in the end you've still got a skinned cat :p
 
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just another interested party when you get the 93-95's sorted out. 94 y code eldorado looking for power. seems to be the simplest bolt on...
 

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os101king said:
just another interested party when you get the 93-95's sorted out. 94 y code eldorado looking for power. seems to be the simplest bolt on...
If you and JSMeloche wanted to get together a group buy for those years, I could hasten the process and put those on the front burner... Cost *should* be the same, especially if you got 5 people together. These years are more difficult because they have much, much more material to remove since they have that extra 2"+ "lip" where the MAF would be on the later models. Let me know.
 

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Any one has info on how to remove and replace the TB? If its too hard ill have the dealer do it but If i can do it myself id love to.
 
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