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Discussion Starter #1
I don't have an SRX yet, but I'm looking at a 2004 3.6 whose ad says "rear differential needs replace". Price is decent, so I'll probably buy it. I have spent the last few hours scouring this and another forum for info on interchangability and haven't seen this asked or addressed. Is there something different aside from p/n between the '04 and '05-and-up rear diff assembly? I see ebay ads that say they fit all and I see others that say '05-'09. I can see that the casting has different webbing on the outside, but the mounting locations look the same. If the mounting is the same, and the ratio is the same 3.23, aside from limited-slip, are there other differences I need to be aware of?

I have read that the timing chain tensioners can be problematic. This car has 158k on it, so I will probably replace the timing chain soon anyway. And make sure the roof drains are all clear.

I'll spend some more time reading about things to look for on this car, but hopefully the rear end is the only major thing I'll need to address soon.

TIA!

Dave
 

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2004 Deville base
'05 SRX N*/AWD, Vetts/Birds/Trucks
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It would be interesting to know 'interchangeability' with the CTS/STS units as well. Just the diffs themselves.
If any, they are the same platform...I think?
 

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Can't help you on the interchangeability, but there are a lot of dead SRXs with blown V6s due to oil consumption leading to cam chain failures. So there should be plenty of diffs around. Your plan to do the timing chain replacement is a good one, because a failed chain system usually leads to valves hitting pistons and a lot of broken parts. Although it's also possible your car has already had that done.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No idea if it has or not. The seller doesn't seem to know much. We're I asked what was wrong with the differential, she said "it needs replaced." I have found a couple of '04 diffs but they seem to cost about twice as much as the '05-09 version. That along with locality is one of the reasons I am interested.

I saw a Ford 8.8 conversion kit, but man! That's expensive. I actually have a t-bird rear but it's far from 3.23. I guess Cadillac figured the SRX didn't need to get up and go like the CTS.

Interesting that gm had other models that suffered the oil ring issue. I know it was rings on the Saturns and I'm assuming it was also rings on the 3.6. It's still amazing to me that they get away with saying that 1 qt/1000 mi is normal. I hope this one isn't that way. I guess I could take some tools and pull the plugs before buying it. Maybe that's a good idea
 

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2004 Deville base
'05 SRX N*/AWD, Vetts/Birds/Trucks
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Take a jack too. Spin the rear wheels...maybe..
Have not heard horror stories on SRX diffs,,but...
Might be someone told her rear end is f-ed, meaning big $$$, CV's/bearings, etc. and not the diff itself.
Maybe a pinion seal/bearing, maybe it ran dry, too much guessing.

If the 'price is right' it might be ok.
'05 here, bought in May, 4.6 AWD, Ultraroof2,3rd seat, nav, reardvd 190k $1100 runs good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll have my jack with me from my truck, so I'll have a look at those things. It would be pretty nice if it's something easier/faster to change than the diff, but who knows. I am really just hoping it is something not terribly expensive. I was planning to buy something running, but at less than half book, I have a hard time passing up a mechanic's special!

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just got back from picking up my new (to me) 2004 SRX. The noises the car is making is a clunk when shifting from drive to reverse, so after I got home, with it half on/half off the trailer, I crawled under and had a look. The front mounting bushing doesn't look awful, but I can see the rubber is starting to crack. But, then I got to looking for other sources of the noise and found that I can see daylight all the way around the center carrier bearing. So, I'll pick up another and get that fixed, and I suspect that the drivetrain will be fine.

The car does have some other issues. The panoramic moonroof or whatever it's called won't close. They got it closed and left it. She said there was a screw missing above the A pillar that is keeping it from staying on track. I don't know if that is accurate, but that's what she described. The driver's side rear door window won't roll up, so I probably need to put a regulator in it.

It might need a battery, I think. It was dead, so they had to jump it, but it had set a code, and wouldn't release the key or restart without jumping a relay (I don't remember which one it is). I cleared the codes with my scanner and it starts ok now. I'll monitor the battery condition and replace if necessary.

The tires are all shot. It currently has 235/65R17 on all four corners. Depending on cost, I may stay like that. It's V6, RWD car, so I don't think the wider rubber is really needed, though it does look cooler.

Oh, and she originally was asking $2k, but had lowered it to $1500 when I found it. When I got there, I was prepared to offer her $1250 depending on what else I found besides "needing the rear differential replaced". But before I could even look at it, she said she'd take a grand just to have it gone. I couldn't argue with that.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #8
WTH? I'm searching OReilly and Rock Auto and can't find anything on a center carrier bushing or bearing! If I search Google images, like the differential, I find listings for 2005-2009. Is it not the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #10

Found that thread, which seems to imply that I have to buy a whole driveshaft. That seems unlikely to happen. If I can find the diameter and verify that one from another vehicle will fit the driveshaft, I can press off the old one and do some fabrication to make it fit the body. I figured when I found that, it would be a cheap fix. Looks like it would have been cheaper to replace the diff!
 

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2004 Deville base
'05 SRX N*/AWD, Vetts/Birds/Trucks
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for reference, and I was hoping they might have it

I'm thinking a driveshaft repair shop can get the mid bearing fixed up, or you might scavenge one.
Bullshit on a complete unit. Damn, nothing is moving with an IRS.
Seems like a lot of overkill for 300hp. haha

"she said she'd take a grand just to have it gone..." hahaha
These things have to be one of the most depreciated vehicles ever.
$50k to $1k/15yrs
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, you're right. A driveshaft shop could probably do it, but I would expect the cost to start nearing what I can get a new, albeit, probably crappy, complete driveshaft online. I'm getting ready to drop the driveshaft this morning. The CTS bearing should be here this afternoon. If it's not the right diameter, I'll send it back and maybe call a driveshaft place tomorrow. Otherwise, I'll be doing some cutting and welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, thanks GM! I have the rear loose from the pinion and the center carrier is loose. I'm having a little trouble now, though. It doesn't seem logical that disassembling the CV joints on the front half should be necessary to get it out, but I can't get the rear to come forward enough to come off of the centering stub on the pinion, and the front half doesn't readily slide out of the transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I found a thread in another forum that explained the removal. I was on the right track, just afraid to smack something with a hammer if I didn't know whether I should. The new bearing assembly is welded into the old bracket, and the driveshaft is reassembled. Just need to get it back in the car now. Before I do that, though, I think I'll drill out the broken off studs for the exhaust pipe. Why did they think that 6mm studs would take the torque necessary to remove them after being rusted in place for 15 years???

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The driveshaft is back on, and the exhaust is mostly there. I need to pick up some bolts tomorrow and then I can wrap it up and put the car back on the ground. Drilling out those studs was a blast! And I remember why I hate drilling holes by hand, in awkward positions.

The window regulator for the left rear door will be here tomorrow. That should go in pretty fast. The only thing really left that needs to be addressed, aside from needing tires, is the U0100 code.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The clunk is still there after reinstalling the driveshaft. I can see the rear pumpkin moving when shifting from drive to reverse and vice versa, but I'm not sure if that is actually the source of the noise, or if it's something more significant. I have read of replacing the front mount bushing, and I should probably do that regardless, but I'm not sure how much the pumpkin should move to begin with.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am finally getting around to putting a tag on this car. I still need to get tires. But I was able to finally take it around the block. driving around back and forth in the driveway and to the street I never noticed anything unusual other than the clunk from the rear end bushing. Today, driving the car around the block, under moderate acceleration there is a clicking almost like a gear slipping. So, there could actually be something wrong with the rear end. I have not really dug into it yet as I have other things to do today but I will have to get the car in the air again and take a closer look at that.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
After watching a couple youtube videos and a little reading, I'm fairly convinced the chain in the transfer case has stretched.
 
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