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2004 CTS
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Took the CTS in for one of the recalls today and was told by the service rep. that cadillac now say that we need to have our brake systems flushed every 2 years. He stated that this was a moisture issue. The brake system is sealed, so if water can get in, then brake fluid can get out. How is the moisture going to get into the system. I also live in an area that only gets 6 inches of rain a year, and the average relative humidity is around 30 percent. In addition, he stated that we need to ingore the computer system for transmission fluid life. I believe that is the above is true then cadillac need to send us owners an addendum to our owners manual. I must admit, that the service rep when questioned about this almost kept a straight face. Does anyone know if this is true, or is this another dealer scam to collect more money from unsuspecting owners. I'm going to write cadillac about this, but just wanted to know if anyone else has run into this story
 

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2006 STS V8 AWD, '95 Ford Ranger
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These must be the same guys that used to work for Sears that squirted oil on your shocks from a little squeeze bottle they had palmed so they could sell you new ones. What they told you is an out and out lie to con you out of your money. Defy him to show it to you in writing from Cadillac. These crooks need to be reported to your state Attorney General.
 

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hmm. i dont know about getting it flushed every two years. but form what i remember from auto class i took in highschool, brake fluid can suck water straight out from the air. It can evaporate water through the brake fluid resevoir and if you read the top resevior on most cars, i think it tells you so. the instructor also told us that if you leave a bottle of brake fluid open, it will go bad from all the moisture from the air that is sucked up.
 

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Wow, thats amazing---service writer must need extra labor hours this month!! I am a technician at a Cadillac store here in Las Vegas. The recommendation for the brake flush may be true--let me research on GM's website---the other about the transmission is a BOLD FACE LIE!!! GM wants the oil life and trans life monitors followed exclusively. I would report the person or ask for the service manager--I am sure the manager will not be so bold as to stick his NECK on the line.. Hope this helps---will get back with the info on brake fluid.
Supercrew632
 

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Ok, this is all I could find regarding the brake fluid issue---It looks like if it isn't contaminated, DO NOT CHANGE IT!!! -------------
Inspect the brake fluid for the following conditions, indicating brake fluid contamination:
- Fluid separation, indicating two types of fluid are present; a substance other than the recommended brake fluid has been introduced into the brake hydraulic system
• Swirled appearance - oil-based substance
• Layered appearance - silicone-based substance
- Fluid discoloration, indicating the presence of moisture or particles that have been introduced into the brake hydraulic system
• Cloudy appearance - moisture
• Dark appearance/ suspended particles in fluid - dirt, rust, corrosion, brake dust
Inspect the master cylinder reservoir cap diaphragm and the reservoir-to-master cylinder grommets for swelling, indicating brake fluid contamination.
If the brake fluid WAS contaminated with an oil-based or a silicone-based substance, indicated by fluid separation and/or a swollen master cylinder reservoir cap diaphragm and/or swollen reservoir-to-master cylinder grommets, perform the following:
Remove ALL of the following components listed from the vehicle. Each component contains internal rubber seals/linings which have been contaminated by the contaminated brake fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Refer to the procedures indicated:
• Master Cylinder Replacement
• Brake Hose Replacement - Front
• Brake Hose Replacement - Intermediate
• Brake Hose Replacement - Rear
• Brake Caliper Replacement - Front in Disc Brakes
• Brake Caliper Replacement - Rear in Disc Brakes
• Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) Replacement in Antilock Brake System
Clean out all the hydraulic brake pipes using denatured alcohol, or equivalent.
Dry the brake pipes using non-lubricated, filtered air.
Repair or replace ALL of the following components listed and install them to the vehicle. Each component contains internal rubber seals/linings which have been contaminated by the contaminated brake fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Refer to the procedures indicated:
• Master Cylinder Overhaul or Master Cylinder Replacement ; also perform the following: Clean the brake master cylinder reservoir using denatured alcohol, or equivalent, then dry the reservoir using non-lubricated, filtered air. Inspect the reservoir for cracks and/or damage and replace if necessary. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Replacement . Replace the brake master cylinder reservoir cap diaphragm.
• Brake Hose Replacement - Front
• Brake Hose Replacement - Intermediate
• Brake Hose Replacement - Rear
• Brake Caliper Overhaul - Front or Brake Caliper Replacement - Front in Disc Brakes
• Brake Caliper Overhaul - Rear or Brake Caliper Replacement - Rear in Disc Brakes
• Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) Replacement in Antilock Brake System
If the brake fluid was NOT contaminated with an oil-based or a silicone-based substance, but WAS contaminated with water or dirt, rust, corrosion, and/or brake dust, replace the brake master cylinder reservoir cap diaphragm which may have allowed the moisture or particles to enter the hydraulic system.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with Delco Supreme 11® (GM P/N 12377967) or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system; begin the procedure with the pressure bleeder reservoir filled to the maximum-fill level with the correct brake fluid as indicated. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding .
Hope this helps
SUPERCREW632
 

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that was very helpful, thanks super.

when i recently went to the dealer for an oil change, the dealer wanted to change the brake fluid as well. they showed me a sample of my brake fluid (i assumed) and what was regular brake fluid coloring. mine was darker, and from the above probably indicating there was some moisture in the system. i could have gotten it changed but i wasn't ready to spot the 100 some dollars they wanted to do it...
 

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according to what super posted, you should follow the DIC display for "transmission fluid life" and take appropriate actions when it's close. i'm not sure what the DIC bases the meter on (if it's just mileage or a combination of driving style and mileage) but it atleast gives you a good idea of when you should have everything replaced.
 

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My car has a bumper to bumper warranty so if my dealer says the fluid is bad, they are gonna pay for it.

But, YES brake fluid can suck moisture out of the air, ask any Cadillac Allante owner they will tell you about brake fluid woes!!
 

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2006 STS V8 AWD, '95 Ford Ranger
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The CTS brake system is completely sealed from outside air. A diaphgram in the master cylinder completely protects the fluid from the atmosphere but still allows for venting the system. The darkness encountered in brake fluid comes from the plasticizers that are leeched from the rubber brake system parts over time. This is harmless. Your service writer is a flim-flam man.
 

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jteolis said:
My car has a bumper to bumper warranty so if my dealer says the fluid is bad, they are gonna pay for it.

But, YES brake fluid can suck moisture out of the air, ask any Cadillac Allante owner they will tell you about brake fluid woes!!
I also have bumper to bumper on my Caddy. Doesn't everyone have a free maintenance schedule, or does this vary by region?? I'm in Canada and I'm sure we all have it for free here, but I think JT is from the US, so whats the deal for the rest of you guys... I mean even if your rides an 03' our maint. covers it till 07'.

Nonetheless, I was taught the same thing in auto shop class. In humid areas, the fluid needs to be changed more frequently because even thoughit may be completely sealed, the moisture molecules in the air can still be sucked in from ventilating

I'm no super mechanic though, I just remember that I was taught this...
 

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haute_heir said:
I also have bumper to bumper on my Caddy. Doesn't everyone have a free maintenance schedule, or does this vary by region?? I'm in Canada and I'm sure we all have it for free here, but I think JT is from the US, so whats the deal for the rest of you guys... I mean even if your rides an 03' our maint. covers it till 07'.

Nonetheless, I was taught the same thing in auto shop class. In humid areas, the fluid needs to be changed more frequently because even thoughit may be completely sealed, the moisture molecules in the air can still be sucked in from ventilating

I'm no super mechanic though, I just remember that I was taught this...
Only canada gets this wonderful free maintinence, (BMW and Audi now offer it as well)

I think free schedualed maintinence is becomming a standard for Luxury Marquees
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks supercrew632. I thought this was the case. Can't wait till I receive my service quality questionare. I will also report this to cadallic.
 

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what does the bumper to bumper not cover? I know they don't cover like pads or rotors or clutches but what else?
 

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Glad to help---if you have any other questions please feel free to ask. The more knowledge is out there, the better owners can understand their cars and what they require.......to answer the trans question.........the monitor determines change interval by driving habits and multiple warm up cycles..etc...also time.....GM recommends tranny fluid change at 50,000 but if you have a 30k service performed, the dealer will flush it for you----I do not believe in the 30k service and believe it to be a rip off. I believe from my experience a good decarb every 30k and fuel filter are all that is needed at that point and the car can tell you when to change the tranny fluid. This is all I do on my own vehicles. Dealers sell maintenance packages to generate profits, and are not recommended at the manufacturers recommended intervals, they try to sell it all to you EARLY. Hope this helps......


Supercrew632
 

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my dealer has a plan that i get free oil changes and tires for life of original owner of car. the only catch is you have to take it in to them every 3000 miles and follow the scheduel B service requirements. he sais it will probably end up costing me about $600 total for the first 30,000 miles of required service but all oil changes and tires are free as long as i keep it on the scheduel.

any thought on if this is a good deal?

any opinions on if this is a good deal.
 

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Black the Darkside
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rm2077 said:
my dealer has a plan that i get free oil changes and tires for life of original owner of car. the only catch is you have to take it in to them every 3000 miles and follow the scheduel B service requirements. he sais it will probably end up costing me about $600 total for the first 30,000 miles of required service but all oil changes and tires are free as long as i keep it on the scheduel.

any thought on if this is a good deal?

any opinions on if this is a good deal.
$600 for 30,000 miles is not a good deal IMO even if he replaced the tires.
 

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RobertCTS said:
$600 for 30,000 miles is not a good deal IMO even if he replaced the tires.
I agree, besides 30,000 miles my tires still look almost new. Spending $600 for oil change which you can do easily is like throwing money away.
 
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