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New 08 EXT - about to begin whipple build, some questions

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21K views 142 replies 10 participants last post by  petethepug  
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#1 · (Edited)
Alright gents, I recently picked up an all-original 08 EXT with 54k miles on it. I've ordered the whipple 2.3 kit for it along with a few other misc mods (Wilwood BBK front and rear, PML deep trans pan, B&M custom milled diff cover, valve covers with coil mounts, accel coils, 10.5mm wire set, catted LTs, oil cooler adapter, 3 row rad with integrated oil and trans coolers, etc). I'm mainly curious what the group would recommend for trans tuning and or mods to accept the increased power. This will not be used as a hooligan vehicle but it will be asked to tow a 3 place jet ski and motorcycle trailers (approx 3000lbs max) and be a fun weekend vehicle.
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#2 ·
I also wanted some input on swapping to 3.73s from the 3.42s. I wasn't very impressed that the 6.2 likes to hunt between 4-5-6 on the highway and between 5-6 around town when encountering small hills. I'm hoping the whipple will help that somewhat but I know gears with the 22s can make a definite impact.
 
#3 ·
Hi there, the tooning aspect is all LS-based. So, whether you are a do-it-yourself kinda person or want to get one of the performance shops to tune it for you.. tons of options out there because there's millions of these LS-based GM motors are in everything.

Your truck is all wheel drive, yes? Not sure what is out there for the front axle gear change, but converting to 2WD opens up all options for the rear end. Any competent speedshop should be able to do it.
 
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#4 ·
The engine tuning is straightforward, I'm more concerned with the trans. I have heard tell that there is an updated, OEM 6L80E calibration that came out around 2014 which vastly improves longevity and overall behavior. I doubt this truck has had that update installed since it has basically been in a car collection since new. I also hear a lot of chatter on a TC upgrade that should be at the same time....

Yessir, it is AWD. Yukon lists a 3.73 ring and pinion set for the front since it uses the standard GM IFS diff:
www.randysworldwide.com

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I understand this will most most likely require some recalibration of the ECU to cope with the RPM changes. 3.73s would yield about 200 more rpm across the board.
 
#8 ·
The s/c s/w is going to tune the motor. Not sure if it comes with a trans tune incorporated into the package your purchasing. Blackbear is a popular tune that requires $2-$4 worth of tuner developed SW communication devices purchased along with their tune. I’d give them a call and first crack at your plans before you purchase any kits.

There’s info to drop in a pre loved OEM 2011+ VCIM/OnStar module & SD card based Navi without reprogramming the theftlock feature if you want to upgrade to 2014 equip.

The SW will provide factory BT, cell phone remote start, lock/unlock & upload directions from cell to truck Navi, one touch up/down windows front & one touch down in back plus 5/10 other updates. There’s also a solution for integrated A2DP BT music streaming that has a 5 min install.

XLNT choice for a build platform at that milage & zero AFM to deal with. Do you know if the whipple kit will want larger injectors? Texas Speed is another XLNT source for parts and knowledge base for gearing.


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#11 ·
After a lot of hemming and hawing I decided AGAINST the Wilwood kit. Instead, I'll be going with ZR1 calipers w/16.25" rotors up front and C7 base calipers in the rear with OEM rotors. The adapters were sourced from CTSVbrakeswap.com Of course, I will be running stainless lines and more aggressive pads. What really sold me on this route was the long-term support these parts will have vs Wilwood and a wider selection of replacement/upgrade parts down the road. The 16.25" rotors look like train wheels!
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#16 ·
FastGas said:
After a lot of hemming and hawing I decided AGAINST the Wilwood kit. Instead, I'll be going with ZR1 calipers w/16.25" rotors up front and C7 base calipers in the rear with OEM rotors. The adapters were sourced from CTSVbrakeswap.com Of course, I will be running stainless lines and more aggressive pads. What really sold me on this route was the long-term support these parts will have vs Wilwood and a wider selection of replacement/upgrade parts down the road. The 16.25" rotors look like train wheels!
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Hmmm, the whole S/C thing isn't really practical IMHO, but good luck with it. I have a 2010 EXT, and it sure ain't no hot rod, haha, nor would I want to waste my time trying to make it into one.

However, I truly like the big brake stuff. Do you have a link or two on all the parts and the setup? I'm guessing your spare tire won't fit after those pieces are installed..... ;)..... thanks
 
#18 ·
I can see your point about the altitude factor, but only maybe for heavy towing. Otherwise, I'm not sold on S/C. But I do like it, haha. I've had a few S/C vehicles, still have one.... a 700hp Roush with 2.3L TVS making 25 psi boost, that thing really whines at WOT! But I did just have to completely rebuild the 8.8 rear end in that car. That's one of the issues with making lots of power... but it is fuuunnnnnnnnnnnnnn! (y)
 
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#19 ·
It's up to you, the LSA in my Tahoe running 6psi gave a very, very dramatic boost in low end torque that was basically instant.
There are obviously a lot of pros and cons to the different forced induction options but I think a positive displacement supercharger on a large V8 is the best way to go (turbos are too complicated and thirsty without a lot of engineering and clever software, centrifugal SC don't make enough tq and trucks are rarely revved to high RPM, etc. etc.). This is why Ford and Ram are using this method as well for the new Raptor and TRX.
Yeah, they'll munch parts if you abuse it and aren't careful. I'm not really into that, I'm more about making power at elevation given the deficit.
My only wish is that Whipple offered a 2.9L kit for this application but they changed the castings to accommodate the newer style LS and LT installations.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Mojo88 said:
I looked mine up (2010 EXT) Is the 16" Brembo BBK available as a kit? Or would you recommend something else as a moderate upgrade?
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Either factory, which seems to include stock rear calipers painted to match

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The kit put together here from Vette parts

petethepug said:
The goal of going to Brembo GT all the way around is not realistic. It's also a way to beg for someone to put your truck up on blocks and take the rims and brakes. A new set of the Brembo 6 & 4 pot calipers front to back that I'd like retails for close to $10k, HA! There's even a set on eBay from an Escalade for $3k shipped in Phoenix. EVERYTHING is included to bolt it on. I'm going to pass. I Looked at installing the Vette Caliper kit and adapters shown on the Silverado forum, but passed because the increase in rotor size was marginal.

OEM front rotors are 330 x 30.
GM aftermarket front rotors from their Brembo kit are 410 x 32.

The front axial mount (bolt on) Brembo rotor kit that GM sells with those 410 x 32 rotors is over $2K just for the front. It has conflicting info stating it only works on the the 2015+ rotors with a different offset. Other sites state the kit works on 07-18 trucks. This kit referred to as the 5JL upgrade Kit from GM (Brembo) kit # 84263237


I stumbled into another route using the massive ZR1 6 pot front calipers from the carbon ceramic brakes of the 09-13 Z06 Vette. Obviously NOT going to run the carbon ceramic rotors with them. With the adapters the massive 410x32 mm rotors will bolt on. :whistle: Initially I planned to run OEM sized zinc coated, x drilled and slotted rotors and Bosch brand Ceramic oem pads. The oem route, from RockAuto runs about $310 delivered. It's the same flawless kit installed on our 08 Denali almost 5 years ago. The Vette route should run about $1.2K just for the front. If I deduct the cost of replacement of OEM rotors parts, I'm into the BBK for $900. More to follow on budget BBK for the Escalade.

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Or Brembo’s own early factory kit which has slightly smaller rotors. There are still other options but it comes down to preference. There really aren’t any other upgrades except vented rotors and pad upgrades which I run on my other vehicles.


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#29 ·
That’s a nice choice. Since the parts are new and clean, consider coating them for sound and thermal protection. It keeps the under hood temp down, protects the wiring, suspension, drivetrain from premature wear and reduces cabin drone.

You still get the nice whine of the blower and deeper exhaust note but the annoying cabin drone is pretty much gone. It’s supposed to provide a few more hp by scavenging more heat out the exhaust but the sound & heat benefits are the most significant.


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#31 ·
petethepug said:
That’s a nice choice. Since the parts are new and clean, consider coating them for sound and thermal protection. It keeps the under hood temp down, protects the wiring, suspension, drivetrain from premature wear and reduces cabin drone.
Click to expand...
Yes, for sure! I have done several builds with coated headers. These will be going black to match the SC and valve covers:

Here's a set I just had done for a motorcycle build:
 
#30 ·
Yeah, those look nice. I've actually been thinking about some long-tube, equal-length headers into an x-pipe, with dual exhaust. That setup (which I've run a few times in assorted vehicles) always makes for a nice smooth sound, it gets the exhaust pulses all lined up in order.

Good luck with the mods. Please post up a vid or two when done. I'm 100% sure we'd all like to see it and more importantly, HEAR it from both ends, haha....... ;)
 
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#40 ·
I'm now mulling over ordering the complete Hotchkiss F/R swaybar kit along with the available Spohn suspension links with poly bushings. Since I intend to keep the factory adaptive suspension I'd like to control body roll via other suspension components. I'm a little curious how these parts relate to road feel.
 
#41 ·
Ha! Your truck is test mule’g all the mods on my list. The sway bars are a no brainer for something Escalade owners are unaware of; the unwanted, unnecessary body roll we’re all used to.

The poly bushings don’t have as big a following in the suspension link area. As a guide, Poly is superb over rubber on single axis applications. When it’s used in areas like control arms, where there’s twist and bump absorption involved it gets harsh and pretty much suited for race only.

When you mix the single axis bushings with poly and multi axis joints with OEM or a harder durometer rubber (if available) you retain the comfort and multiply the performance. Poly bushings on multi axis joints generally make for dental appointments for filling repairs [emoji1]


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#42 ·
Yes, my thoughts and findings exactly. My jeep still rides smoothly using custom-valved Bilstein 5165 series shocks and 35x12.5x17 tires with a LOT of sidewall to help with bump absorption! I'm afraid the cadillac will ride very poorly with the 22" tires and poly/johnny bush'd control arms. I will order the sway bars and see!
 
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