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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help! I'm attempting to replace the sway bar end links on my 93 Eldo, but I am unable to get any leverage to break loose the lower nut. I am sure they have never been loosened and the car is 12 years old, besides that they are really tight (of course). A deep-wall socket is too long because it hits the control arm, and I can't move a wrench because the sway bar itself is on one side and the axle is on the other. What I'm saying is that if I get a wrench or ratchet on the nut, I can't move the wrench or use a cheater bar or hammer to loosen it because of those other things in the way. Has anyone else had a problem with this? All the threads I've read seem like it is a straight-forward operation, and I haven't heard anyone complaining about this problem. I did get the upper one loose, but I'm at my wit's end with the lower one. Can anyone help me...please???
 

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These can be a bear, especially if you have both front wheels in the air. Best way to get them off is to have one wheel fully down, and one wheel in the air, this loads the bar to put as much force on the bolt as possible.

The other problem is space, and there's no easy way to fix that. The best way I found was to use an open/box end wrench, with the box end on the bolt and hook another box end wrench over the open end side (if that makes sense...) this gives you extra leverage in the tight space.

If you're turning the nut and the bolt is turning too, get a small pair of vice grips on the other side of the bar and clamp onto the bolt / shaft. There's a good chance that you'll tear the boot, but at least you'll be able to get it off...

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Tremor. I've had both wheels up, so I'll try the other way, although the space/leverage problem is the real bugger. I'm amazed that no one else has mentioned this problem in all the threads I've read! I appreciate your help and I'll try it some more.
 

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tremor12 said:
The best way I found was to use an open/box end wrench, with the box end on the bolt and hook another box end wrench over the open end side (if that makes sense...) this gives you extra leverage in the tight space.
If you do this make darned sure you're using a high quality wrench - since you're using another box end to multiply the torque you can apply AND you're using the "open" end as a connection point a cheap wrench may leave you with a rather nasty wound if it breaks while you're really pulling on the wrenches - also make really sure that you've got the box end fully on the bolt before you start to apply leverage.

I mention this because many years ago (around the time oxygen was invented far as I can tell) while replacing the shackles on the rear of a 1969 SS Chevy II I managed to drive a lower front tooth through my lower lip with the handle of a wrench I was using as an torque adder when the open end sheared off - it hurt like hell and bled quite a bit as well (at the same time I apparently taught some of the other neighborhood kids (younger than I) some new phrases ..).

This is not the time to use that cheap cast asian set of tools you picked up at a "tool sale" for ten bucks .....

Steve
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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I got mine off fairly easy, with a flex head ratchet, and a deep socket, a pair of vise grip pliers were helpful also. The arm of the ratchet was pointed into the rear of the wheel well.

The wheels have to be level with eachother when you're putting the new ones in, otherwise the holes won't line up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I didn't have time last night after work to try any of these, but I will tonight. All you guys have been a great help. It makes me feel kinda' bad because, not being a real mechanic, I can't offer much help to others. I can do quite a few repairs and replacements on my own Eldo but nothing major. I just want everyone to know how much I appreciate your input and the chance to gain knowledge from the forum. Thanks, everyone!
 
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