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Discussion Starter #1
my 1995 STS acts up as well and I need help BAD!!! :annoyed: First off she has about 189K on her and I paid $4040.00 exactly for it two years ago, when she had 162K on her, did a tune up and new exhaust when I first got it, was told that I needed new mounts then, never got around to doing, the dogbone style ones up top are showin some wear, My tranny was acting up reving hard into second, and always wanting to slam back down to like 1500rpms right when you let up of the gas, even at interstate speeds, Im pretty sure the tranny needs some work. About a year ago, I had a problem where it wouldnt start at all, I ripped apart the steering column thinkin it was the ignition swith, wasnt that, so I had it towed up to Cadillac where the said the transmission transponder switch was messed up and the car couldnt tell wheather it was in park or drive. That was $450 right there. Now present day im stuck with the same dilema, go to start it and nothing no wanting to start or even a turn over, it just clicks from under the hood, like the something is relieving presure, (have yet to get the recall fixed on the fuel rail) Sometime though about a month ago, it would go in and out, like go on a streak where it would start for like 3 or 4 days and then go on a 2 week streak of not starting, and now its been sitting for atleast 3 weeks on its longest sitting period to date. Im pretty sure but not positive its not the starter, not the alternator, replace the battery today, and Im clueless what it could be. I can pull up trouble codes but most of them arent on the online look-up thing that everyone on here uses. If anyone can share info that will help I would appreciate it. Someone also said something about the ignition coil?? INPUT NEEDED!!
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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The clicking you hear is most likely the starter solenoid, and if the problem is not the battery or its cables,
it's most likely the starter.
It is not likely that it's an ignition coil problem because the engine would still turn over if it was, and it could actually start. It would run rough though.

You should post your codes, some people here have other resources than just that one website. If there is a tranny problem there will most likely be a code.

Thanks for creating your own thread. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I were to replace the starter would that clicking go away, and I know the seals are reusable but if its the first time removed since built do you recommend replacing?? Or do you think this solenoid is the problem?? Also whats the main thing to check for on the cables, Ive seen some on here that dont even look recognizeable, my look to be in decent shape, although on seems to be getting stripped. I appreciate your input, and hope you can continue to help me out!! I will post the codes on the OBD in the morning. Take it easy. Could I pretty much narrow it down to the starter though?? Like if I replace the starter, and the battery cables, I should be good to go?? Would to suggest buying a used one off ebay??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
these are the codes I got first time around, since its like minus 20 out, but they are as follows, S011,S013,S018,S023,S028,S051,S038,S037,I052,P109,
P052, Im thinking there is more, I really wanted to get into the PCM codes, but im not an expert at troubleshooting it once the test is finished. Would you recommend buying a starter off ebay thats used rather than paying full Delco price??
 

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S011-----Left Front Dampering valve short to ground
S013-----Left Front Dampering valve short across load
S018-----Right Front Dampering valve short across load
S023-----Left Rear dampering valve short across load
S028-----Right Rear dampering valve short across load
S051-----no listing
S038-----Electronic Level Control (ELC) Exhaust valve short to ground/open
S037-----Electronic Level Control (ELC) Exhaust valve short to B+
I052-----Keep Alive memory error (from changing the battery, don't worry about this one)
P109----- PROM long term memory reset (also from changing the battery, don't worry about it)
P052----- same as P109

What did you do to your shocks and struts? It looks like you just spliced the wires together in an attampt to foil the "SERVICE RIDE CONTROL" message. Do you still have your old shocks and struts? Because if you do you can reuse the dampering valves out of them to get rid of the SRC message. The S037 and S038 are gonna be a little tougher though because you may need to do some disecting if you want to repair it rather than replace it.

Anyways, you have no codes that are related to your problem. If the starter goes bad, it will not give out a code. So this only makes me lean more towards the starter being bad.
 

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Krashed989
Obviously you have an idea of something that may have been done there, (by looking at his codes).
You mentioned about maybe wires being previously spliced to by-pass.
Is it possible, (if that is the case), that a bad splicing job could be reaking havoc with some other things ?
If it is the starter right now, and if there is a bad ground or some archking somewhere from a possible splice..........And replacing his starter helps....
Could he end up with other problems later ?
Is quite apparent that electrical problems can wreak havoc on the whole system.
So was wondering if maybe he should take care of what you think may be a splicing job before anything else ?
Kinda like the saying not to just treat the symptoms but to diagnose the illness ?
It appears hes been having some problems from the beginning.
And am wondering if what you noticed from his list of codes could be the reason for some of it ?
Is it possible ?
Not to mention the fact he hasnt taken care of the fuel rail recall yet ????

No fuel would result in just a clicking wouldnt it ?
Or untill the battery was killed ?
(Thats a freebee !! Get it done !! It needs to be taken care of !!)

Is it possible that these things in conjunction are screwing up other systems and or components ?
 

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After going over donclericuzios' original post I am now wondering something else :hmm:

I have heard about the fuel rail re-call, but will be honest to say that I dont know what conditions it creates if it is faulty.

Is it possible that the symptoms hes described in his first post could be caused from a faulty fuel rail ?

His tranny symptoms:
If there is no fuel would it not want to gear down

Starting problems:
If there is no fuel would it result in nothing but clicking

My suggestion would be to take care of what is free before spending money.
Then go from there.
 

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13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
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The fuel rail recall has to do with the fuel rail material, I believe. It wouldn't have anything to with fuel pressure.

Unless there is a relay in the system preventing cranking if fuel pressure isn't present, the engine would still crank. It just wouldn't turn over.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I want to take care of the recall, but its not starting buddy. I noticed though once when I was changing a flat tire, and the little thin black vaccum hose thingy just visible with the tire off was just completly severed. Like some just went snip snip. So thats where I think all the S codes are coming from. Im leaning towards the starter as well, but whats your opinion about buyin a used one off of ebay?? Im going to run another OBD and see if I cant pull some PCM codes to see if it gives more info. History codes, are they just there for reference or do they still need to be fixed, you think if they were fixed they would have been cleared.
 

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All of the codes in the format of S### are RSS codes. All of the dampering valves are directly wired to the RSS module. The RSS module is located in the trunk, attached to the back of the rear seat. It has kind of an internal circut breaker so that if wires going to it are grounded or spliced together, it won't fry because of it. It is supposed to automatically reset the circut if it senses that everything is all good again. I don't think splicing the wires together will hurt anything, and if it was going to hurt something it would hurt the RSS module. The car can still run without the RSS module because the serial data line (which is circut #800) links each module together in a loop. This means that without the RSS module, two of the other modules will have to send and receive data out of only one of the two circut #800 inputs, rather than using them both. This would cause a lot of traffic in certan areas of the line and also cause circut faults to occur, rusulting in more codes. Codes which donclericuzio doesn't have.

A bad fuel rail would still allow the engine to turn over, it just might not start or will spudder and start under throttle. Bad fuel rails are very dangerous because the way they go bad is by springing a leak, and that could cause the engine to catch fire.

No fuel to the engine will not cause any shifting problems, it will however cause the engine to stall.

I really think that it is most likely the starter causing the problem.


EDIT: The dampering valves are not run by vacuum hoses. They are electrical. If you look at each shock and strut, there should be a little nub protruding from the side with a wire connected to it. That is the dampering valve. If your car does not have the nub with the wire coming from it, then you have passive shocks and struts on your car that were installed by someone who didn't know about the RSS system.
 

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History codes are codes that aren't current at the moment of testing, but have been current within a number of igniton cycles ago. I forget how many cycles before they go away. You can also clear them yourself. Some codes will only have a chance of being current if the engine is started. Say you have a misfire code while the engine is running. If you turn the engine off and just have the ignition on while checking the codes, the misfire will come up as a history code. But ofcourse, it isn't fixed.

Personally, I wouldn't buy one used off of ebay. If I am fixing my car, it means I plan on keeping it. If I get a used starter, I may have to replace it much sooner than a new one. I not into fixing one part twice. Plus, no guarantee on used parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys I appreciate your input!! Im almost dead set that it is the starter. Would you recommend taking it in and having it replaced?? Or is it something I could get a do it your selfer over here and get done?? While I replace the starter should I just go ahead and replace the cables as well?? Well enough about my starter for a minute, what is a good way to tell if my gaskets on my heads are still good?? The reason why Im concerned is because about a month after each oil chancge my check oil level comes on, and Ill add about a half quart to see if that helps but it stays on virtually until the next oil change? Perhaps a bad sensor?? Also towards then end of each oil cycle, my engines seems to knock. (hinting that its short on oil??)Also my change transmission fluid light comes on, and I read on here that you really dont need to change your tranny fluid but like once every 100K?? Factual?? Well I would apprecitate your response and continue to thank you for you input!!
 

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Just like your oil life reminder, there is also a trans oil life reminder. Just not as easily accessible. With the amount of miles on your vehicle, you probably need to get it changed.

When your oil gets changed, is it being refilled with 7.5 quarts? That is what the north* takes. When the low oil reminder comes up, I believe it takes almost two quarts to get it back to a proper level. If that doesn't help, the oil level switch could be bad. Easy fix. Your oil level issue is not a reason to worry about your headgaskets.

If you have the intake off to do the starter, I would go ahead and do the cable also.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thats some good needed info I wasnt aware of it needing 2 whole quarts everytime the oils low, Im sure its not a faulty sensor since after a fresh oil change it reads ok, and yes I am fittin 7.5 in everytime i change oil. Using Mobile 1 Synthetic, and heard its not uncommon for its to sweat out since its so thin. So just like you reset the oil life deal you can do the same for the transmission fluid change?? Do you know how?? I did add some tranny solution during the summer, that was supposed to lube the gears and prevent leaks, and slips. Thanks for your help budd!! Ill check back later
 

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2 quarts if the low level warning comes up. It is always best to check the dip stick.

To reset trans oil life, you would need to go to the pcm override menu - PS15. You apparently know how to get into the OBD. To get to the override section:

After testing is complete, PCM? will show on the display.
Press FAN HI once.
At PCM Data, press FAN LO once.
At PCM Inputs, press FAN LO once.
At PCM Outputs, press FAN LO once.
At PCM Overrides, press FAN HI once.

You are now in the override menu.
Press FAN HI until you get to PS15.

The cooler button decreases life, the warmer button increases life.

When done press the AUTO button to exit the system. Be careful while in there. Follow the directions closely and don't mess with anything else in there unless you know what you are doing.
 

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Eldyfig said:
2 quarts if the low level warning comes up. It is always best to check the dip stick.

To reset trans oil life, you would need to go to the pcm override menu - PS15. You apparently know how to get into the OBD. To get to the override section:

After testing is complete, PCM? will show on the display.
Press FAN HI once.
At PCM Data, press FAN LO once.
At PCM Inputs, press FAN LO once.
At PCM Outputs, press FAN LO once.
At PCM Overrides, press FAN HI once.

You are now in the override menu.
Press FAN HI until you get to PS15.

The cooler button decreases life, the warmer button increases life.

When done press the AUTO button to exit the system. Be careful while in there. Follow the directions closely and don't mess with anything else in there unless you know what you are doing.
OR you can simply press the "OFF" and rear defroster button for about 5 seconds with the message displayed on the dash. After you do that it should show a message confirming that it has been reset.
 

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It is always good when you recieve a detailed explanation to go along with the answer. :highfive:

Thanx Krashed989 :thumbsup:
 
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