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Discussion Starter #1
hello everyone,

i am currently an owner of a 1988 Cadillac Seville STS, and just had to get my car smogged at a test only center.

However I didn't pass the NOX emissions.. failed by over 200 points.

What can I do to fix this?

I just got the radiator changed and felt that I was getting better gas mileage, but maybe at the cost of Higher NO?

Should I put 91 or octane boosters or what can I do to pass this test?

I've read quite a bit to lower NOX, by removing Carbon deposits, too much anti-freeze and so on..

Please any information regarding how to lower NOX is greatly appreciated!
 

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2005 CTS-V, 1994 Infiniti Q45
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If your car has EGR, then you will need to make sure its clean....... If the Tstat is bad (running too cold), it could also cause some problems.....

Beyond that I wont say much more because I dont know much more than that, since here in Indiana we dont need to worry about that!!!!

And, welcome aboard!!!
 

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elwesso said:
If your car has EGR, then you will need to make sure its clean....... If the Tstat is bad (running too cold), it could also cause some problems.....

Beyond that I wont say much more because I dont know much more than that, since here in Indiana we dont need to worry about that!!!!

And, welcome aboard!!!
Thanks for welcoming aboard.

Too bad I didn't start out my first thread with a, "Hey how are you!":annoyed:

but I just got depressed that after doing some repairs on the car that only has 119,000 miles it didn't pass smog. I'll have to check and find where the EGR valve is, since I did read about it on the web.:disappoin

I just think that the car sat to long in the garage, and carbon and other no nos got the best of the pistons. I'm going to try a lot of carb/injector/detergents to see if that starts cleaning up the car. :crying:

Amazingly however, the car has been getting some serious improvements in gas mileage since I repaired the belt, radiator, and some minor hoses and electrical wires.. I used to drive 54 miles and lose three gallons, now the digital display didn't budge when I drove. for a moment i had thought that I ruined the fuel gauge, but its working nicely now. Travelled 115 miles and only used up 4 gallons!

I was so confident with the improvement in gas mileage that I thought the car would pass smog. :mad:
 

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Welcome aboard.
The problem you're having is most likely due to carbon deposits and/or a malfunctioning EGR system. Unfortunately, the catalytic converter could also be the culprit.
I'm not sure why you're trying to draw a connection between your antifreeze and carbon deposits but...........they actually have nothing to do with each other. A can of "Top Engine Cleaner" to remove carbon would probably do wonders.
 

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I like using that stuff just so I can see it smoke!!! It probably feels great for the car, blowing out all that crap!!! :D
 

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Katshot said:
Welcome aboard.
The problem you're having is most likely due to carbon deposits and/or a malfunctioning EGR system. Unfortunately, the catalytic converter could also be the culprit.
I'm not sure why you're trying to draw a connection between your antifreeze and carbon deposits but...........they actually have nothing to do with each other. A can of "Top Engine Cleaner" to remove carbon would probably do wonders.
Thanks again,

The reason why I had linked antifreeze and NOX emissions is because I had read somewhere that too much anti-freeze can create a film around the cylinder walls and contain the heat within the cylinder. Therefore producing the +2300 Degree F environment which causes Nitrogen to breakdown and bond with the oxygen atoms, thereby resulting in Nitrous Oxide (NOX).

I began to consider changing the catalytic converter since the car has been sitting for a very long time and has had some bad days.

The can of "Top engine Cleaner", how does that work, put it in the gas tank and drive around and then refill when tank is empty, or do I have to pull the head for that?

Thanks again!

If it passes smog, I'll be soo happy.

Then I can start on the other things like interior repairs.
 

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Top engine cleaner is stuff you implement through the intake..... You can get it in aerosol, or in liquid...... Personally, I would recommend using the liquid and pouring it into the brake booster line...... I tried both ways, and the latter works much better......

Just unplug the hose from the brake booster, and put the fluid in there..... You can either use a small funnel (that will fit into the hole, that is what I did), stick the hose into the can (i wouldnt do that), or put a little bit of the stuff into a small container (like a film case or a measuring cup)......
 

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elwesso said:
Top engine cleaner is stuff you implement through the intake..... You can get it in aerosol, or in liquid...... Personally, I would recommend using the liquid and pouring it into the brake booster line...... I tried both ways, and the latter works much better......

Just unplug the hose from the brake booster, and put the fluid in there..... You can either use a small funnel (that will fit into the hole, that is what I did), stick the hose into the can (i wouldnt do that), or put a little bit of the stuff into a small container (like a film case or a measuring cup)......
i haven't gotten my helms manual to the cadillac yet, so could you explain to me where the break booster line may be?

It doesn't have anything to do with the actual deceleration mechanism of the vehicle does it? :)

this weekend is NOX reduction weekend. I hope i can get it done!
91 octane, carbon deposit remover, and EGR repair/replacement/cleaning!
 

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The brake booster simply uses the intake vacuum to make the brake pedal easier to push...... IF you didnt have the brake booster, the pedal would feel real hard, like when you press it a lot with the engine off......

The brake booster is a black, thick frisbe looking thing on the drivers side mounted to the firewall...... There should then be a hose connected to it, that leads to the intake...... When you unplug this hose, you will hear a hissing noise, which is normal......

When you apply the liquid you will put it in that hose, and when your done just plug the hose back in.....
 

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Don't forget that in order for you to get the "FULL" effect, you need to shut the engine down as soon as it ingests the fluid and let it "soak" for approx 10 min.
Just make sure you don't pour any type of fluid into an engine that IS NOT running and then try to start it. EXTREME MECHANICAL DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.
 

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Very important..... I guess I figured they woudl read the directions!!!!

That condition would be called hydrolock, and that isnt good.....

After you let it sit, run the sh*t out of it clear out all that stuff!!! Its an excuse to go fast.... Do at least 3 or 4 redlines.....

If you get pulled over, just say "officer, I was cleaning out my engine" :histeric:
 

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elwesso said:
The brake booster simply uses the intake vacuum to make the brake pedal easier to push...... IF you didnt have the brake booster, the pedal would feel real hard, like when you press it a lot with the engine off......

The brake booster is a black, thick frisbe looking thing on the drivers side mounted to the firewall...... There should then be a hose connected to it, that leads to the intake...... When you unplug this hose, you will hear a hissing noise, which is normal......

When you apply the liquid you will put it in that hose, and when your done just plug the hose back in.....
Okay can someone give me a name brand and what it may say? Aree these top engine cleaners meant to into the gas tank but instead we're putting it in through the brake booster?

I went to kragen and I found some bottles for like 3 to 6 bucks that say will clean the valves and carbon deposits from the pistons, but IM confused because they say to put it in through the gas tank?

I need brand name. :)
 

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There is a connection between antifreeze and NOx levels, but it's different than what you wrote.

LOW coolant = engine running hot = increased combustion chamber temperature = increased combustion chamber pressure = ripe conditions for formation of NOx.

I haven't used any of these "top engine cleaner" products for a long time. Some names to look for are Gum-out, CD2, Gunk, STP, etc. Read the labels in the parts store. Typically they are labelled to remove varnish, carbon deposits on valves, free up stuck rings, etc. Packaging may have changed, but these always used to be in metal cans with a pull-top lid (like a pudding cup) because the solvents in them will dissolve plastics (don't spill any on your paint or your driveway).

I can relate to what Wes is saying about the white smoke. Once while a student I used an aerosol can of carb cleaner on my 84 Charger (Omni). I was in the parking lot at work at lunch merrily spraying this stuff down the carb throat & revving the snot out of the engine. I finished the can, stood up & looked over the top of the hood to see a wall of white smoke 50ft high and 200 feet long drifting across the parking lot. Oops.

Good luck. Emissions compliance can be a pain in the arse.
 

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Go to the GM dealer and ask for a can of "Top Engine Cleaner". I don't have the part number with me but I can get it. Directions are on the can.
The other products that you mentioned are shotgun type products that are actually fuel additives.
 

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The fuel additves really dont do much...... The only one that actually does anything is BG44k, and you can only get that at BG product dealers......

The reason you put it through the brake booster is because it gets it directly into the intake, rather than going through the fuel system...... It can also clean up the intake tract to a certain degree.......

You could also use SEAFOAM....... Its about the same stuff, but the TOP ENGINE CLEANER is made for the intake system.......
 
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