[wiscTom]

I really feel stupid, because this can't be that difficult, but this past weekend, I thought I’d change my air filter and, based on some messages I’ve read here, I thought it would be somewhat straightforward. Either my configuration is different or I’m missing something. I have a 2004 SLS and there is a horseshoe(?) shaped plastic container thing that is sitting half over the air filter box. It’s held there by a star screw and then by being clamped to an out feed from the air intake hose ... and that air intake hose is also connected to the air filter box.

I understood that I’d be disconnecting that air intake hose from the air filter box, but I don’t readily see how I’m going to get that horseshoe shaped container off first.

Any advice would really be appreciated … Tom :banghead:

 

[Ranger]

Thats a resonator and it does not come off. It stays attached to the air duct. I think it's sole purpose is to be a royal PITA.

 

[Submariner409]

Remove the Torx screw and pull the resonator out of the hose. Loosen all 3 hose clamps, note the orientation of the MAF, and unplug it. Using both hands, remove the hose from the throttlebody spigot and work it up past the cables. Now remove the hose from the MAF, and then the MAF with coupler ring will slide off the air filter box spigot. BE careful when you pop the two spring clips: One will certainly wind up down in the fenderwell area. Ask me how I know. Replace the filter with a WIX #46302 - lots more surface area in the media than AC or Fram. Consider adapting a 2" rubber pipe cap, from a hardware store, as per the below pictures. Removing the resonator opens a huge hole after the MAF, and the engine will not run with that airflow disturbance - the hole must be filled. Besides, removing the resonator makes checking the transmission fluid easy - it's a dry sump unit, no fluid on the stick with the engine off, check it with the engine on, in P, warm, fill to halfway up the stick marks. Don't mess with the honeycomb flow straightener in the MAF - it's not a screen - it's 1/4" deep. The IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor is that tiny black bead - thermistor - at the edge of the MAF bore at 11 o'clock in the picture. There are 3 tiny heated resistors on the MAF bridges - careful.

 

[wiscTom]

Submariner,

Can’t thank-you enough for your comprehensive procedural description and pictures … this should definitely be a sticky. You indicate that the resonator can be permanently removed, if the respective hose hole is plugged. The ability to more easily change the air filter in the future and the easier access to the transmission fluid stick, certainly make this something to think about. What’s the purpose of the resonator ?

 

[STSS]

Be aware, you may SWALLOW your BUTT PLUG if you don't tighten the replacement hose clamp enough.... ask me how I know... fun times!

 

[Ranger]

My '03 has a different type of resonator that is not easily defeated. My daughters '02 has that type and if I where to do that, I'd find a "butt plug" that fit on the outside rather than the inside so that could not happen. If I could not find one, I think I'd turn one out of aluminum. Another option would be to drilla small hole on each side at 180 degrees apart and pin or screw it in place before you seal it. Good news is I ain't gonna do it cause I don't think she cares.

The resonator is to quiet the intake. Even with it, the Northstar has a rather throaty howl when you get your foot in it, even a little.

 

[Submariner409]

Ranger's idea of turning a plug out of aluminum is the elegant way to go - and the intake duct on this late STS/SLS type system has a molded groove inside for the resonator to seat in. An aluminum plug could be turned with that ring in the proper location and it would never come out.

The recommended rubber pipe caps are a good idea, BUT they need a look-see once in a while: the rubber tends to "set" from the heat and clamping pressure. Someone else - STS2003 maybe - trimmed down a spray paint can lid and clamped that in the hole. More rigid.

Actually, a good woodworker could turn a beautiful walnut or oak plug, retainer ring and all, coat it with clear laminating epoxy, and it would be just as functional.

............and Ranger brings up another good point: If your intake system doesn't look like the earlier posted example of a 2002 STS, you're on your own !!!!! Yes, when you stick your foot in it, anyone in front will definitely know you're headed their way.......fast.

 

[STSS]

I plan to make an aluminum one once I move into my new house... The rubber just gets too soft when it gets hot... It took about 4 months of 10-20 WOTs per day to suck it in... I was at about 6000 RPM, next to a semi on a two lane road when it sucked it in, luckily I had enough speed to get around him, but then it didnt want to run good... but it did keep running until I stopped, when it stalled and wouldnt start, and I found the plug holding the butterfly open.

 

[Ranger]

I plan to make an aluminum one once I move into my new house... The rubber just gets too soft when it gets hot... It took about 4 months of 10-20 WOTs per day to suck it in... I was at about 6000 RPM, next to a semi on a two lane road when it sucked it in, luckily I had enough speed to get around him, but then it didnt want to run good... but it did keep running until I stopped, when it stalled and wouldnt start, and I found the plug holding the butterfly open.

Wow! That could be dangerous.

 

[Submariner409]

How's this for a :bump:

Butt plug and MAF/IAT pictures for the 2000+ Sevilles. The spring clamp is on the PCM cover because I was seating a new stickyback foam gasket.

Read Post #8 - the pictured 2" rubber pipe cap has been replaced by a trimmed rattle can (paint) top. The aluminum plug with retainer ridge is the most elegant solution. Look in the hole to get the picture for the ridge.

(The JET MAF is a waste of money - it sets mixture codes and results in a slight gas mileage loss as well as causing an off-idle and midrange bog with WOT application.)