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Discussion Starter #1
Been wanting this for the past few months, planned it out for the past few weeks, finally got it done this Columbus weekend. I'm very pleased with how it came out. Here's a review of what I used and the basic method for doing it since there is next to no information out there on bypassing the early Seville's. Hopefully this helps, feel free to PM or post any questions.

Components
X920BT
PAC SNI-1 Ground Loop Isolators
GM1590 Dash Kit
Metra 70-1857 Harness
Chinese Backup Cam
Battery Disconnect Switch

Functionality Gained:
Navigation, Bluetooth phone and audio, video via DVD playback/SD Card/USB, audio via CD/SD/USB/Bluetooth/3.5mm, Backup Cam
Functionality lost:
Power antenna is always up, No tape player

Process
I started off by trimming down the dash kit. When you get the kit in the mail it has like a million different tabs to accommodate the various vehicles it's meant to be used on. I trimmed off all the side tabs and attached the bottom bracket. On that bottom bracket there are two slots that are meant to accommodate the screw + screw clips that you remove from the stock headunit. After that the dash kit should reassemble in function the stock headunit.

I then wire tied the various wires I'd be running to the trunk (harness, video cable, reverse wire). I pulled up the door trim panels according to how N*Caddy recommended (thanks buddy) and exposed this little valley where a bunch of wires ran right to the trunk. I put the new wires in there (see picture, yep there is enough room). In the rear you remove the bottom of the back seat by pushing in hard then pulling up, you also need to loosen the top portion of the back seat to expose an area to run the cables. Then you're in the trunk, where the harness breaks off to the right to plug into the tuner's car harness and the video/reverse wire break off to the left so I could tuck them into the pipe that runs along the trunk hing for a neater look as they run up into the trunk lid (see picture).

Passing the harness's wires up to the dash is a little time consuming. The dash for the headunit is actually really tight especially later on when everything is in there. There is a small little gap underneath the glove box on the right side that you can just barely reach with your finger. I managed one at a time to pass the harness through there.

Then I wired up the harness to the new headunit's harness, plugged in GPS, MIC etc (see picture). This part is pretty straightforward and tedious so I'll skip it, unless you've never worked with wires before in which case feel free to PM me. Oh, I ran the USB/3.5mm to the center console (see picture), not glove box.

I then verified everything worked so far, which it did, no problems at all. There was a slight buzzing noise so I attached the ground loop isolators which got rid of all of it except for in one instance (read on). I've found these PAC ground loop isolators to be a must for any of these type of installs.

Then I drilled the backup cam in and tapped into the reverse wire (light green). The design of the cam is really nice in that the screen and wire are one in the same and pass through a single hole. The problem with this is that on our Caddy's there is this bubble type thing above where you would normally mount a backup cam which blocked and prevented me from screwing on the bolt to secure the camera. So I didn't screw it down but the camera seems to be pretty securely in place, time will tell. I love the clean, chrome look, almost looks stock (see pictures).

Check that the camera worked (it did), and then I started putting the seats, trim etc. back in place and cleaning up the car and garage.

Problems
Honestly it was a very problem free install, just time consuming since there wasn't much information on how to trim the kit. Everything turned right on and works. Two minor issue's.

Power Antenna is always up. I checked all my wiring and it is good, I also tapped into the pink trigger wires on the antenna but it still always went up. Currently I have the blue/white remote power antenna trigger wire on the headunit harness wired into the blue power antenna wire on the metra harness.

Buzzing. There is a slight buzz present only when the headlights are on, during daytime it is not there. It comes from the front speakers. I thought perhaps the illumination wire I tapped into for auto dim was located near the front speaker rca's but it wasn't. I even took off the crimp and tapped up the wire but still the same buzzing.

Dash. The trim around the radio isn't very impressive. I plan on fixing this hopefully this weekend with some black molding. The radio sticks out a slight bit more than the stock radio but that's because the new headunit is deeper and there are a ton more wires back there (see pictures).

That's it, no other problems. No security alarm issue's, no dieing headunit from lack of power, nothing serious at all. It is very possible to replace the headunit on this car with a music nicer, feature rich one. It's just time consuming.

Recommendations:
- DISCONNECT THE BATTERY DURING ALL WORK
- Use a battery disconnect switch, it's so much easier than connecting and disconnecting the battery every time you need to move a seat forward, test a wire for voltage, test the headunit or whatever.
- Get the ground loop isolators. A lot of people seem to wing it and see how bad the noise is first. The you're out another week while you wait for delivery of the isolators.
- Buy plenty of various size wire ties
- Keep a computer nearby just so you can look up shit and pass time during lunch break :)

Pictures


^Dash kit with tabs removed but before clips + screws installed^



^Panel removed, valley exposed^

^Rear Seat Out^

^Passing through to the interior from the trunk^



^Passed through into the center console via a drilled and filed hole^




^Testing out DVD Playback with Training Day^
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the compliment. Since the install I've resolved two of the issue's. I installed a switch to manually control the antenna (installed in the drivers side foot well where there is a slight gap between console padding and dash trim). I also was able to seat the unit further back by holding the wires up with a thin screw driver as the unit was pushed into place. See the pics below.



 

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nice install im thinking of unplugging my antenna all together so it will stay down all the time looks cleaner with it down
 

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You don't get as good reception, and yea it looks much better With that gap fixed, and the switch is no big deal since its hidden don't take everything N* caddy says to personal he's extremely brilliant just doesn't believe in a lot of aftermarket parts, I'm thinking of upgrading from the pioneer avh-p4100dvd to the avic-b110ut I think it is, again nice install and pioneer
 

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Hey, ZeroOctane-

This is inspiring work! I installed the Metra harness in my 95, with a JVC KW-XR610 HU. Deck was a PERFECT fit, and the radio console bezel flushed up against the faceplate, so there was no gap.

Now that the harness is done, and the HU will fit, I haven't been able to get any sound of the stock Bose speakers/amp combos. It is very faint, as if the low level signals from the HU are just passed through. Did you have this problem? The Metra harness bypasses the RIM in the trunk, but what about the Bose amp(s)? Antenna works as it should, and yes, I did hook up ground loop isolators. To test, I disconnected them, and still faint sound (at max volume on the HU).

Any ideas as to where to look for something simple that I missed? BTW, the harness run to the trunk was super clean, using N*Caddy's suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey, ZeroOctane-

This is inspiring work! I installed the Metra harness in my 95, with a JVC KW-XR610 HU. Deck was a PERFECT fit, and the radio console bezel flushed up against the faceplate, so there was no gap.

Now that the harness is done, and the HU will fit, I haven't been able to get any sound of the stock Bose speakers/amp combos. It is very faint, as if the low level signals from the HU are just passed through. Did you have this problem? The Metra harness bypasses the RIM in the trunk, but what about the Bose amp(s)? Antenna works as it should, and yes, I did hook up ground loop isolators. To test, I disconnected them, and still faint sound (at max volume on the HU).

Any ideas as to where to look for something simple that I missed? BTW, the harness run to the trunk was super clean, using N*Caddy's suggestions.
Hmm, lemme think. I think I had a similar issue when I did this install on my Lexus. I think I put the ground loop isolators in backwards (input-output reversed), or I didn't ground the isolators (the brown wires need to be grounded on the headunit, not the body of the car). Also, did you have a Bose headunit? There are separate wire harness's for Bose and non-Bose.
 

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Now, here's the rub. The HU WAS a Bose Gold unit, but when I went to install the Bose harness, I found that the car had the BASE speakers (10 ohm) and NO external amps. Therefore, these speakers were being barely driven by the low-level 2.5V signal from the replacement HU (a JVC KW610, with CD, bluetooth, and USB iPod controller). Looks like I'll keep the Bose harness in place, because it correctly powere the unit and power antenna, but I'll need to run new speaker wire to use the high power output of the JVC HU. I'll probably ditch the stock UW6 base speakers with Rockford Fosgates at the same time I run the speaker wires (and just disconnect the RCA connectors). I cannot find any external amp for the base system, so I'll have no choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now, here's the rub. The HU WAS a Bose Gold unit, but when I went to install the Bose harness, I found that the car had the BASE speakers (10 ohm) and NO external amps. Therefore, these speakers were being barely driven by the low-level 2.5V signal from the replacement HU (a JVC KW610, with CD, bluetooth, and USB iPod controller). Looks like I'll keep the Bose harness in place, because it correctly powere the unit and power antenna, but I'll need to run new speaker wire to use the high power output of the JVC HU. I'll probably ditch the stock UW6 base speakers with Rockford Fosgates at the same time I run the speaker wires (and just disconnect the RCA connectors). I cannot find any external amp for the base system, so I'll have no choice.
I'd double check all your wiring. I'm no expert on audio but I have done a few installs and something just doesn't sound right about yours. It seems like your speakers aren't receiving power from the harness or the amps aren't turning on. Double check your wiring.
 

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Did that last night, and here are the results:

This obviously was modified by the previous owner. Bose HU, no external amps could be found, and a number of wires under the glove box were taped.

I then ran 2 14ga. speaker wires alongside the Metra harness (there was room for Monster cable if need be) directly to the stock 10 Ohm speakers in the rear deck. Bingo! Worked like a champ. Awaiting receipt of a matched set of Rockford Fosgate replacement speakers, and I'll do the fronts and button all of this up.

Note: The Metra harness assumes Bose components all around, including common ground for the speakers. This would have worked, so for all others reading this post, I'd recommend this harness, and the ground loop isolators. Many aftermarket head units will go into protect mode if common ground is encountered.

I have to give Cadillac credit - every panel had adequate padding - unlike my previous car, which was an Infiniti Q45 with a Bose system.
 

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cadi509 said:
You don't get as good reception, and yea it looks much better With that gap fixed, and the switch is no big deal since its hidden don't take everything N* caddy says to personal he's extremely brilliant just doesn't believe in a lot of aftermarket parts, I'm thinking of upgrading from the pioneer avh-p4100dvd to the avic-b110ut I think it is, again nice install and pioneer
The reason why is I did a car PC install
 

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hey i read over your info and i have a 95 cadillac deville concours when i brought it there was already the exact wiring harness i needed and its already ran from the truck to the dash ok the problem is i dont know where those plugins go for my aftermarket cd player the ones that are colored i dont know if i need to buy something to plug them into
 

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hey i read over your info and i have a 95 cadillac deville concours when i brought it there was already the exact wiring harness i needed and its already ran from the truck to the dash ok the problem is i dont know where those plugins go for my aftermarket cd player the ones that are colored i dont know if i need to buy something to plug them into
Your headunit should have it's own wiring harness - match up the correct wires between the two harnesses.
 

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Well thing is that the USB and SD card player I have only has the inlet where its red and white and then the other one is where the antenna goes but it comes from the trunk and then where the harness are connected I don't know where those other plugins go like there is no where for them bc its a regular aftermarket USB and SD reader
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Re: Navigation Installed - 93 Seville **Updated 2018**

I still have the photos I posted back in 2010 of this install which are no longer in the original post. I'm reposting them below for future reference should someone still be interested in a similar project - the last three pictures are more recent from 2017.

It's definitely worth the effort given 8yrs later the setup is still running perfectly, plus I bet a used or even new unit such as I used could be found for a fraction of what I paid back in 2010, and even though it's obsolete by 2018 standards it's still a solid unit. I recall people suggesting it was a bad idea to bypass the original radio using the harness and piggy-backing off the unit in the trunk because there might be insufficient power to run the Avic X920BT. In the 8yrs I've had this setup it hasn't died once or given an indication that it lacks sufficient power.

























 

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My '93 Seville STS "factory authorized repaired" Bose HU/amp gave up so I'm going this route now. Even using nearly the same parts. My install will be using the Metra harness, AI dash/install kit, Pioneer AVH2440NEX w/AVIC-U280 (GPS) and the Pioneer BU cam. When I verified w/the tech, I asked if I had everything I would need to do the job and he said yes, never mentioned the ground loop isolators. As it's either been raining or too darn cold to do this, I'll be looking for the isolators, any recommendations? Also, I can't seem to find the thread on body panel removal you referred to. Thanks for this thread!
 

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My '93 Seville STS "factory authorized repaired" Bose HU/amp gave up so I'm going this route now. Even using nearly the same parts. My install will be using the Metra harness, AI dash/install kit, Pioneer AVH2440NEX w/AVIC-U280 (GPS) and the Pioneer BU cam. When I verified w/the tech, I asked if I had everything I would need to do the job and he said yes, never mentioned the ground loop isolators. As it's either been raining or too darn cold to do this, I'll be looking for the isolators, any recommendations? Also, I can't seem to find the thread on body panel removal you referred to. Thanks for this thread!
I just saw your post in my old thread. Did you complete the install yet? From what I recall, I used the ground loop isolators because there was a loud hiss through the speakers. Apparently not all installs encounter this issue. I planned ahead and bought the isolators before attempting the install because I had failed to do so during a previous install on my other car which ended up needing the isolators. It's up to you whether or not to buy them in advance - I'd suggest you do based on my limited experience with two installs.

Re: the body panel removal - I'm not sure what thread I was referring to either after 9yrs, sorry lol. I might've just used my factory service manuals to figure out how to remove various trim pieces and the rear seats.
 

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I just saw your post in my old thread. Did you complete the install yet? From what I recall, I used the ground loop isolators because there was a loud hiss through the speakers. Apparently not all installs encounter this issue. I planned ahead and bought the isolators before attempting the install because I had failed to do so during a previous install on my other car which ended up needing the isolators. It's up to you whether or not to buy them in advance - I'd suggest you do based on my limited experience with two installs.

Re: the body panel removal - I'm not sure what thread I was referring to either after 9yrs, sorry lol. I might've just used my factory service manuals to figure out how to remove various trim pieces and the rear seats.
Yes, install is finished. It was a long road getting it working. The problem wasn't the head unit as first thought. Long story short, there's a pair of ground wires behind the back seat upright, the bolt securing them was loose. It's now fixed and we're very happy with the new system. Didn't need the isolators.
 
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