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2011 SRX4 3.0 Engine
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328 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have heavily edited my original post - this is obviously a parasitic drain issue and or not simply driving enough...sorry...i have to figure out where 800 Ma is going to :mad:
steve
 

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2011 CTS4 Coupe, 2014 ELR
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311 Posts
My thoughts are that the short drive time isn't enough to make up for the energy used to start the vehicle.
In essence you are taking out a 4 liters of electricity to start the vehicle and then only putting 3 liters back in before you park it.
Eventually you run out of electricity..
 

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2015 SRX Premium FWD
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735 Posts
I only drive ours 1 day a week, 2 max, and I'm not having a problem, but, I replaced my battery with an AGM battery about a year ago, when the oem battery failed.
 

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2016 SRX Luxury
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I only drive my '16 once or twice every 2 or 3 weeks, and it’s been fine until a cold front moved through yesterday, and this morning when I tried to start it…….nothing! Called Triple A who got it started, but after testing, decided to replace it since the battery was OEM and almost 5 years old. I’m thinking maybe a trickle charger will prevent this from being a continuing problem?
 

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2016 SRX Premium- Black on Black
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69 Posts
If the electrical system was working properly, running the vehicle for 5 minutes 3 times a week should be more than enough to keep the battery charged.

You've got either a shorted wire or a component failure somewhere and it is draining your battery

These types of problems can be tough to track down and if you're paying somebody to do the tracking it can get expensive due to the troubleshooting time.
If you are doing the tracking it might take you some time but eventually you'll find the issue either through process of elimination or if it's a defective component it just outright fails.

Go online and search "troubleshooting parasitic drain".
There are a lot of tips out there.

I've had similar situations over the years.

Ford Explorer (Son's vehicle)- after 2-3 days the battery would slowly drain dead.
Since my Son was off at college (about 2 hours away) I could only troubleshoot over the weekend.

It took me almost 6 months to final figure out the problem.
Even though it tested good it turned out the issue was the alternator had an internal short and was creating a parasitic drain.

If the vehicle would have been driven daily more than likely the issue would have never been known.
BTW- I got my Son a solar battery tender that he laid on his dash and plugged into his cigarette lighter.
This created enough charge to compensate for the parasitic drain until I figured out the problem.


Dodge Ram (weekend vehicle)- after about a week of sitting idle the battery was dead.
Again the issue was a parasitic drain.

This was a bit easier to find as there were google search results pointing me to the issue.
The driver's seat belt actuator had failed and was shorted.

I unplugged the actuator and the problem went away.
Got another actuator and haven't had any more problems since even if the truck sits for 2-3 weeks.

Good luck.
 

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2011 SRX4 3.0 Engine
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
well &%[email protected]% i put my fluke meter inline with the negative terminal and i have a constant 3.2 amp drain with the vehicle locked.😡 I pulled all the fuses and relays at the battery box , the cargo area and the passenger side front panel with zero results...still a constant 3 Amp draw
 

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2011 CTS4 Coupe, 2014 ELR
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well &%[email protected]% i put my fluke meter inline with the negative terminal and i have a constant 3.2 amp drain with the vehicle locked.😡 I pulled all the fuses and relays at the battery box location with zero results....well the fuse panel in the cargo area is next then the one on the passengers side front - the wife will have to help with these...
Before you go to far.
It can take up to 30 minutes for all the modules in the vehicle to "go to sleep" and turn all the way off. You also have to make sure you don't do anything that will wake the vehicle back up.
Don't open doors.
Don't open the lift gate
Don't open the hood
Don't use the remote.
For some vehicles even having the remote within 50 feet of the vehicle can wake it up.
When I run this test I...
1: Open the hood and then use a screwdriver to re latch the hood latch so the vehicle thinks the hood is closed. Make sure all doors are closed and do not open them during the test. If you need to check fuses in the vehicle, use a screwdriver to latch the door latch while the door is open.
2: Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3: Connect a 10 gage jumper wire between the ground terminal of the battery and negative battery clamp.
4: Connect Amp meter between ground terminal of battery and negative battery cable.
5: Set amp meter to low range (a range that will display .001 amps) If you do this without the jumper wire you will blow the meters low range fuse. If you use the meters high range you will not measure low enough resolution to correctly measure the 5- 50 mA parasitic draw.
6 :Wait 10 minutes.
7: Disconnect jumper wire so that all current is running through the amp meter.
8: Wait an additional 30 to 60 minutes to make sure all modules are asleep.
Note: If at any time the battery is disconnected you need to start all over again. You must keep the battery connected for the modules to go through their normal shut down process.
FYI I have done this testing as part of vehicle development and validation. This is the best way to determine long term parasitic draw.
 

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2011 SRX4 3.0 Engine
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Discussion Starter #9
holy cow !!! i was only waiting 5-10 minutes, i can see from the DMM the modules shutting down, I will follow your procedure when i can get the drain down to less than 500 Ma..... attached is the schematic. I will follow your advise and test again but first i will disconnect the alternator and starter and cooling fan module to see what happens, they are the only routes i have not checked that dont go through the fuse boxes.

I appreciate your reply(y):)
 

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2015 SRX Premium FWD
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735 Posts
There is some kind of tool we used at the dealership that had to sit overnight, in series with the negative cable to measure parasitic draw. Don't ask me what it is, I'm almost 70, I can't remember what they called it.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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It's either a Tech-II (GM scan/program tool) or some brand of VOM/DVM/multimeter/whatever.

After just over 12 minutes of rest under the conditions set in Post #9 my STS has a parasitic drain of 22 mA.

Because the STS is now a garage queen it lives on a small (0.8A) Battery Minder.
 

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2011 CTS4 Coupe, 2014 ELR
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If you measure between the negative battery terminal and the negative ground cable you will measure ALL current draw.
 

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2011 SRX4 3.0 Engine
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Hey CSIMME01, you were correct, the amp draw does reduce considerably after about 20 minutes, i made several experiments and it went from 6 to 4.5 to 3 and hung out there for 10+ minutes then dropped to .800 ma constant i think I'm just not driving enough?
 

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Thats what I think.
Here is how you could check.
Fully charge the battery then drive like normal.
When you park at night leave the hood open with the latch latched.
Every morning use your volt meter to measure the battery voltage. You must make this measurement before you open the doors or do anything to wake up the car.
Record this voltage.
Do that every day for a week or 2.
Compare these measurements to the battery open circuit state of charge table below (column 1)
If the voltage/state of charge is going down but the parasitic draw is still .008 then you just aren't driving it enough.
589088
 

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When walking up to your vehicle to test, remember don't bring your keys with you, the proximity sensor will wake up.

Max
 

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2011 SRX4 3.0 Engine
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Discussion Starter #17
Will log for 10 days, I have a trickle charger connection readily available so i dont need to open the hood to measure the voltage
 

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I have heavily edited my original post - this is obviously a parasitic drain issue and or not simply driving enough...sorry...i have to figure out where 800 Ma is going to :mad:
steve


I had been dealing with a similar problem with my CTs turns out it was the alternator. Which I thought was weird cause the car would drive after a jump start or battery recharge but check the alternator could be what’s causing your problem
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks Bizzy for the advise that was one of my thoughts as well
 
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