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'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So my friend and I are heading back from the Bear Mountain car show on the Palisades Parkway South, when around exit 13 the temp gauge starts to climb. I was already almost completely out of gas, and was barely gonna make it home too. So all these bad thoughts start running through my head as the needle climbs towards the red. "Was it the new radiator I just put in?....", "Did the head gaskets finally go?..." I finally found a place to pull over just before exit 9W for the NYS Thruway, when the A/C Off message came on. The needle was just shy of the red...another 1/4 mile and it would have told me to shut down the engine, so I caught it just in time. Pulled over, shut her down, popped the hood, and grabbed my flashlight. My buddy and I were looking all over for signs of coolant, but we didn't see any. Shined the flashlight on the overflow tank, the level was perfect. Then I looked back and noticed the water pump belt was hanging off, and that's when I saw it. The tensioner pulley bearing had quite literally exploded. The outer section had become "detached" from the inner race, and was cocked to the side somewhat, causing the cam pulley to pull the belt right off it. I could see half the ball bearings sitting there, and it looked like the other half was missing. I knew the bearing was going since it was catching and squeaking, I was just lazy, and figured it would last a little while longer....I was wrong. So I called the flatbed, and had them bring it too my house. Now my battery went dead too, cause I had my lights and flashers on so long waiting for them to come. So now I gotta take my step-dad's Hybrid Camry FPOS to work tomorrow, and hopefully I can pick up a new tensioner and put it in after work. Well see...

Anyway, here's a pic of what's left of the tensioner pulley.


Noticed how the outer section just kinda said, "F**K THIS, I"M OUT!!!!"

Lesson learned, don't be lazy. If you know the part is gonna fail soon...just buy it and replace it. Don't let it go until it actually does fail. Cause then this happens...
 

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1992 STS / 2005 MB G500 / 2003 STS / 2006 XLR-V
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11,694 Posts
Re: My water pump tensioner pulley assploded...

That sucks! Luckily there was no other damage, hopefully youll have her up and running again soon.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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69,052 Posts
Re: My water pump tensioner pulley assploded...

:rolleyes: That baby looks as if it had quite a few revolutions before it blew......How many miles?
 

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1997 Polo Green Cadillac Seville STS
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685 Posts
Ummm.. And you did not hear a rattling sound weeks / days BEFORE the pulley wheel gave out???


Mine went bad, but it sounded like a bad front tensioner. When I popped the hood I could see where reddish powdery dust accumulated near the WP Tensioner.... And I could actually move the pulley a bit from side to side...

I knew it was time to replace the sucker....
 

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Sedan de Ville, CTS
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4,764 Posts
I replace my (rubber band) belt every 30k. I am actually surprised at the number of Caddy owners who do not know that belt exists. Most small garages do not know about that belt too. Everytime I see a clean Caddy, I try to point that belt out to owner. Most never knew it existed.
My cost is like $11 at dealer for belt.
 

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'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
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3,703 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Car has 111k on it now. It didn't make any noise before hand, and there were no signs of metal to metal contact such as shaving and what not. The only sign that it was on it's way out was that the bearing would seem to catch every so often causing the tensioner to move just a bit. It didn't make any noise when it failed either. I picked up a new tensioner from napa for 60 bucks today and just threw it in when I got home from work. She's running fine again. From the looks of it, it seems like the out race probably had a hairline crack in it, which caused it to collapse, resulting in catastrophic failure. There was no damage to the belt at all, no even a mark.
 

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'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
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3,703 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I consider myself lucky that the pulley didn't take out the belt, or anything else. I can only imagine what would have happened had it seized in a straight line, and not tilts to the side. The belt would have probably burnt up and then snapped.
 

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96 Eldorado
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283 Posts
It looks as though the bearing simply and catasrophically failed and over heated- melting itself. After all its just plastic. I dont know if you want to blame the coolant pump yet. After you take the guard of the tensioner maybe you''l be able to access the pump and turn it, check it for rotational resistance. Hopefully its simply a pully failure at the tensioner.
 

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Cadillac
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6 Posts
This just happened to me, I'm stuck on the side of the road. Is this easy to fix?? I already ordered the parts (new tensioner and belt) just need to get to the store! Haha!
 

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Cadillac
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6 Posts
Is the coolant pump the larger pulley?? I have the shield off and the belt is wasted, the tensioner pully looks like the one pictured above but the larger pully does not move freely.

Any help is appriciated.

-Jon
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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This just happened to me, I'm stuck on the side of the road. Is this easy to fix?? I already ordered the parts (new tensioner and belt) just need to get to the store! Haha!
You're going to need a metric socket set (10mm) and a 10mm open end wrench.

IF the tensioner pulley "exploded" then it's a 45 minute roadside fix. BUT, if it also took out the cam pulley, then you're in the puller/installer business as well as a new pulley: That pulley is pressed onto the cam snout and you must use the correct tools or risk severe engine damage.

EDIT: The large pulley is the cam pulley - the drive pulley. It's locked to the cam snout - you cannot turn it. The belt goes over the tensioner and down to the (hidden) water pump pulley. You MUST make sure that all 3 ribs of the new belt are seated in the water pump pulley grooves.
 

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Cadillac
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6 Posts
I need to become a site supporter! Thank you for the help! How would I know if the cam pulley is/was damaged?? It has no play in it, just some of the belt reminents melted to it.
 

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1996 Eldorado
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2,814 Posts
The shroud will come off removing 2 10mm nuts. [Easy]
I hope the cam pulley survived, I don't see a reason for it wouldn't.

That belt may still be good, look it over-it looks recent.
I've seen the pulley alone for as little as
$30 online but the tensioner assy is considerably more over $100.

I don't see any reason the pulley replacement alone won't resolve your problems unless
you detect abnormal side play that has worn the edge of the belt.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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69,052 Posts
The original post with shattered tensioner pulley picture is from 2007 - OLDSKOOLPK's pulley blew up two hours ago.

If possible, pick most of the belt remnants out of the drive pulley grooves.

At RockAuto the belt is $7, the whole tensioner assembly is $48, and the tensioner pulley alone is $26 - but that doesn't do much good when you're doing the repair alongside the road.
 

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1996 Eldorado
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2,814 Posts
No one will buy this house or I'd be gone. If someone takes a look its a low ball bid. No buyers, just realtors are offering insulting flip bids.

We are in the position to wait as long as it takes to get at the least the current value already diminished by 35%.
The tax value is still $311k but the bids are $200k or less. 245k to purchase in 2001 60% of that still owed.

Looks like I'm stuck here until sometime after the 2012 elections and Bahama Alabama gets kicked.
 
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