Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 68 Posts
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My engine is done!! I was driving yesterday and shifted to 2nd gear and about 4k rpm the motor made a pop sound and then tick, tick, tick, and tick. That was then end of the motor! I coasted into a parking lot. I opened the hood and only thing I could see was some smoke comming from the air filter. It will turn over but that is about it. Not sure what I did but I guess I thru a rod but I'm not sure.
So now what do I do? Buy a new motor? There is one on ebay but it's just stock. Should I just go ahead and get a new one built? What parts should still be good?
This sucks because I'm in the Mortgage Business and if you have seen the news you know why this is just not a good time for me. I have even thought about just putting it in my garage and learn how to tear down a motor.:mad:
 

·
2016 ATS Premium 6-spd MT
Joined
·
14,005 Posts
... I'm in the Mortgage Business ...
Hmm-m ... not good!

Something's just not right here. You shifted into 2nd at 4k RPM, it popped, then tick tick, then nothing? I'd tear into that sucker to see what's up.

(BTW, you say you're not stock, but I can't recall what you've done to the motor ... so, what've you done to it?)
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I had heads & Cam, headers, exhaust, and CAI. I had bent an exhaust valve about three months ago and it cost me 3,600 to get it fixed. I just can't do that this time. I guess it's time to learn Engines 101.
 

·
Registered
2007 CTS-V Thunder Gray; 2004 Cowboy Cadillac (SRT10)
Joined
·
17,712 Posts
I had heads & Cam, headers, exhaust, and CAI. I had bent an exhaust valve about three months ago and it cost me 3,600 to get it fixed. I just can't do that this time. I guess it's time to learn Engines 101.
Ouch on the repair charge, was it mostly parts or labor?

I have done everything on the car myself but have not braved the engine yet. It looks like it's built well and would be OK to work on but until you get into it you never know what lerks around the corner.

Sorry to hear about your engine woe's and I hope you get her back on the road again!
 

·
Premium Member
2005 CTS-V
Joined
·
8,363 Posts
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
For that amount of money you could put a procharged stroker motor!
 

·
Registered
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
Joined
·
800 Posts
Davin - that sucks, certainly sounds mechanical but you should see what the last codes thrown were. It may give you an idea of what broke.

Any fluids leaking from the bottom end?
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
No fluids! it was showing a code for a leaking intake/Check fuel injector. The shop said it sounds like a timing chain/belt and not blown. So we will see! I guess if it's blown I'm parking it for a few months until my business is better. Wife gave me a green light for what ever I want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,114 Posts
Damn, what's up with your engine takin a dump on you, repeatedly? Seems like it was just the other day that your exhaust valve went. Now this! Shiaz! Feel for you. What was it that made your valve go, anyway?
 

·
2016 ATS Premium 6-spd MT
Joined
·
14,005 Posts
If it's a timing chain, whatever you do don't turn it over! I know you said you already did, but that "tick tick ..." might be those valves gettin' right up close to those pistons and getting a little too friendly. :tisk:
 

·
Registered
Sedan de Ville, CTS
Joined
·
4,764 Posts
My engine is done!! I was driving yesterday and shifted to 2nd gear and about 4k rpm the motor made a pop sound and then tick, tick, tick, and tick. That was then end of the motor! I coasted into a parking lot. I opened the hood and only thing I could see was some smoke comming from the air filter. It will turn over but that is about it. Not sure what I did but I guess I thru a rod but I'm not sure.
So now what do I do? Buy a new motor? There is one on ebay but it's just stock. Should I just go ahead and get a new one built? What parts should still be good?
This sucks because I'm in the Mortgage Business and if you have seen the news you know why this is just not a good time for me. I have even thought about just putting it in my garage and learn how to tear down a motor.:mad:
Shouldn't you be able to fit a Vette engine or CTS V engine in that. Tons of those out there at auctions. Find a local used car dealer who will do you a favor in buying one. Find one that was rolled over, as it will go for fewer $$ than one not hit as bad. Cars hit in rear will be expensive. Those hit in front will be less expensive than those hit in rear but you might be surprised with broken items like alt, alt bracket, ac, ac bracket, pulleys, etc. Those brackets are a few hundred $$, by the way.

Personally, I would not tear down an engine unless I had Earnhardt looking over my shoulder and giving me tons of help and advice. Too much to screw up, in my opinion.
 

·
Registered
05 maggied CTS-V, 2017 NSX Whoo Hoo!
Joined
·
8,810 Posts
If you can afford to get into a H/C setup, you should be able (afford) to take it apart and see what is screwed and then decide on what to do.

IMO you bent more valves.

Could be the pushrods for the H/C are too long.

You would be amazed at how much damage +0.010 can accomplish (don't ask).

You might get off cheap and only need a valve job.

MOD HELL
 

·
Registered
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
Joined
·
130 Posts
I vote timing chain. Maybe a dropped valve (broken retainer), but that doesn't happen often anymore, and usually results in a single cylinder loss (car may still start). A broken timing chain, or gear (the cam gear might be plastic to keep it quieter), would allow it to turn over, but prevent starting. It's also possible (long shot for chains, common with belts) the chain skipped, and crank/cam timing is off enough to prevent starting, and the ticking are valves slapping against pistons now that valve timing is off.

If it turns over and there isn't a hole in the bottom end, it's probably not a thrown rod. To throw a rod, it (the rod) has to go someplace once it breaks. There isn't a lot of clearance inside the block, and unless it pokes a hole out of the oil pan or lower block (near the lip for the oil pan), it has to bend and usually winds up binding the crank... usually preventing it from turning over (stopping it abruptly, and on a manual transmission, locking the rear wheels). On occasion, rods can break off the crank at high RPM and get shoved into the top of the cylinder, but that also usually gets in the way of the crank.

Checking for a thrown rod, or other bottom end catarophies is fairly easy. Start by draining the oil and look for metal. After that, just remove the oil pan and take a look. Anything out of place will be obvious.

LS bottom ends are pretty tough. Not saying 100% it's not the bottom end, but at only 4K RPM... I'd look elsewhere.
 
1 - 20 of 68 Posts
Top