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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings. I've been around the forum for years, and now it looks great btw. After many Cadillacs later, I decided to hold on to my 1981 Fleetwood, and my 95 Fleetwood. The 81 patiently waits for paint and minor love, more on that later. My 95 overheated and either blew a head gasket or a head cracked, and it was out for the last 3 years. In that time, I worked on MANY other vehicles, projects, and customer's vehicles, as I earn cash on the side doing that, to feed my automotive love. 3 years... and fall weather is here. I acquired a complete, 1994 LT1 from a roadmaster, transmission and everything, for $500. 180psi across the board, and sold the transmission quickly after that, after reading stories of 4L60s not interchanging properly. That's $150, for a complete and solid LT1. Over the years i contemplated the LS swap, but always loved the LT1 and good deals on car junk. So, the 94 LT1 is on the engine stand, the original 95 LT1 is now out of the bay. I'm waiting on gaskets (all), and timing set to arrive. I'm removing the cylinder heads from the new roadmaster LT1 to inspect and to replace stem seals. This 95 does have minor modifications now, and that made removal cake. Headers, air intake, and a general cleaning of unnecessary brackets, etc. It also sports a G80 GU6 limited slip, courtesy of a 92 caprice in a junkyard, and yes, nice straight lineS. Wish the ratio was higher. Anyway, i need pictures for the visual impact. Glad to be back. Old school.

Peace
 

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Thanks! I don't have a FSM handy, but I'm sure all info needed will be online. Do you know if regular SBC head bolts will work on the LT1 motors? Also, rear main seal on 87-up SBCs looks identical, and I know i have a new seal somewhere.
 

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I have never had a problem with head gaskets on these LT1 motors. If it were me I would not bother to change them. Timing case cover seals I would change, also rear main, change it anytime the transmission is out. Just like you would change the front seal in the transmission if it were out. I was told the 95 on valve covers were better because they were quieter .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have never had a problem with head gaskets on these LT1 motors. If it were me I would not bother to change them. Timing case cover seals I would change, also rear main, change it anytime the transmission is out. Just like you would change the front seal in the transmission if it were out. I was told the 95 on valve covers were better because they were quieter .
Dr, the set comes with all gaskets needed, and only reason to really pull the heads is to replace the stem seals. (Old method) Also, minor gasket matching in the works. The new LT1 has 124k miles. Im really tempted to leave it all alone and simply add mentioned oil seals/needed gaskets. Oil cooler bypass, EGR delete also in the plans. I want a clean, simple engine bay. Will the 4l60 spill any fluid if i replace the seal while still in the Fleetwood? I left it alone, and only removed the LT1, because it has may be 10k since I replaced filter and new fluid. Thank you for your input!
 

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You can change the oil seals without taking the heads off. Why delete the EGR ? If you change the trans seal not a lot will come out, very little.
 

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I've already ordered the block-off plates for an F Body. No emissions laws in my area, and just cleaning up engine bay as much as possible, that is why i chose to remove those items. After the new engine is in, i do wish to send out the ecm and have it flashed. No VATS, EGR, and as much as i can get away with. media0_02.jpg media0_01.jpg
Here it is. I miss this Cadillac.
 

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If you wat pics I have these. But note I have no traction control or ABS as they are option delete on Commercial chassis due to the 14 bolt rear. Does make for a cleaner engine bay.
37750674_10212088205029708_6816634048220233728_n.jpg
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Super Moderator 2011 CTS SportWagon
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If you're doing valve seals, do new springs. The stockers are crap. I can give the PN for inexpensive Edelbrocks that work in stock pockets perfectly if you need it. I run them with 1.6 GMPerformance roller rockers at high RPM on my T56-backed LT1. I agree, no need to pull the heads... unless you did it already.
 

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Hey Jay. I see you have eliminated a few items as well, the engine bay looks good. Also, i notice no provision on your headers for A.I.R. system? Are those EGR compatible? They look great in there. As for the cylinder heads, i chose to leave them alone. I have the other LT1 to inspect thoroughly, and it could be rebuilt properly with a nice camshaft upgrade and all parts needed. Also, please let me know about the eldelbrock spring part #, I'm very curious about the GMPP GM12370847 --- [email protected] .539/ [email protected] .558 (1.5RR)--- 112 LSA --- 2000-6800. It might be a long time until the new LT1 fails, but it never hurts to piece together a great engine. Thanks!
 

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Hey Jay. I see you have eliminated a few items as well, the engine bay looks good. Also, i notice no provision on your headers for A.I.R. system? Are those EGR compatible? They look great in there. As for the cylinder heads, i chose to leave them alone. I have the other LT1 to inspect thoroughly, and it could be rebuilt properly with a nice camshaft upgrade and all parts needed. Also, please let me know about the eldelbrock spring part #, I'm very curious about the GMPP GM12370847 --- [email protected] .539/ [email protected] .558 (1.5RR)--- 112 LSA --- 2000-6800. It might be a long time until the new LT1 fails, but it never hurts to piece together a great engine. Thanks!
Are you replying to Jay or me? I don't see pics from Jay
 

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Super Moderator 2011 CTS SportWagon
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Yep, not my pics. I can take some this weekend of mine, though. AS&M headers, EGR still hooked up, no AIR (pump and tubing deleted, AIR fittings on headers capped). Lots of other mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Excuse me stickman, i thought that was jay's lt1. Well, looks like I'm not the only one who doesn't leave anything too stock. All my plans are made to perfect this Fleetwood mechanically, I've done a lot of work to it. I'm interested in any modifications you guys have done, anything that will make these more reliable and fun to drive. As for headers, mine are not bad, but i have zero room for AC compressor lines. The Fleetwood never had working AC, and I'm left with the option of either getting a new set of headers, making custom refrigerant lines, or modifying my current set. We have nice weather now no AC needed, I want this car on the road. Still waiting on timing set. Sitckman, I'm tempted to delete ABS unit and replace with a B/D body non ABS unit and brake lines. I just did such thing on my 93 S10 blazer, used all GM master and lines, works great! To keep EGR i would need to add a fitting or tube to connect to rear of intake, which I'm sure my friend can weld up for me. Thanks guys.
 

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Excuse me stickman, i thought that was jay's lt1. Well, looks like I'm not the only one who doesn't leave anything too stock. All my plans are made to perfect this Fleetwood mechanically, I've done a lot of work to it. I'm interested in any modifications you guys have done, anything that will make these more reliable and fun to drive. As for headers, mine are not bad, but i have zero room for AC compressor lines. The Fleetwood never had working AC, and I'm left with the option of either getting a new set of headers, making custom refrigerant lines, or modifying my current set. We have nice weather now no AC needed, I want this car on the road. Still waiting on timing set. Sitckman, I'm tempted to delete ABS unit and replace with a B/D body non ABS unit and brake lines. I just did such thing on my 93 S10 blazer, used all GM master and lines, works great! To keep EGR i would need to add a fitting or tube to connect to rear of intake, which I'm sure my friend can weld up for me. Thanks guys.
Here is what I have done. CAI(filter.straight pipe and aluminum elbow) F-body 3.5 MAF, TB airfoil, coolant bypass mod, 36 lbs injectors, Lloyd Elliot custom grind cam 223/231 110LSA, Lunati lifters, Trickflow pushrods, and F-body aluminum heads. This allows you to do 1.6 roller rockers and bigger valve springs with no machine work. The iron heads have press in studs not screw in so that is not ideal. Plus the 1.6 rockers can make it so you need to clearance the pushrod holes. Plus the valve spring pads on the iron heads need to be machined down for bigger valve springs where the aluminum heads need none of this. Plus the aluminum heads give you a bump in compression. Plus I ran .027 Cometic head gaskets which gave me an additional compression bump. So a tick over 11.3-1. I used Comp Cams screw in studs, Lunati Voodoo 1.6 rockers and Comp Cams valve springs. THe timing set is a Cloyes and a Powerbond damper. The headers are Hooker Super Competition model with the air ports cut off and brazed up. So air and EGR delete, plus A/C delete. I also run a 3200 stall converter with a CPT Pro-Race racing transmission, Grizzly 4.10 gears and a Detroit/Tru Trac Billet Helix gear diff. ANd then a tune by Solomon. BTW I have never missed the ABS or traction control.
 

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Super Moderator 2011 CTS SportWagon
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It's a Caddy... keep the AC. You just need to bend the hard lines coming out of the compressor a bit to clear the headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here is what I have done. CAI(filter.straight pipe and aluminum elbow) F-body 3.5 MAF, TB airfoil, coolant bypass mod, 36 lbs injectors, Lloyd Elliot custom grind cam 223/231 110LSA, Lunati lifters, Trickflow pushrods, and F-body aluminum heads. This allows you to do 1.6 roller rockers and bigger valve springs with no machine work. The iron heads have press in studs not screw in so that is not ideal. Plus the 1.6 rockers can make it so you need to clearance the pushrod holes. Plus the valve spring pads on the iron heads need to be machined down for bigger valve springs where the aluminum heads need none of this. Plus the aluminum heads give you a bump in compression. Plus I ran .027 Cometic head gaskets which gave me an additional compression bump. So a tick over 11.3-1. I used Comp Cams screw in studs, Lunati Voodoo 1.6 rockers and Comp Cams valve springs. THe timing set is a Cloyes and a Powerbond damper. The headers are Hooker Super Competition model with the air ports cut off and brazed up. So air and EGR delete, plus A/C delete. I also run a 3200 stall converter with a CPT Pro-Race racing transmission, Grizzly 4.10 gears and a Detroit/Tru Trac Billet Helix gear diff. ANd then a tune by Solomon. BTW I have never missed the ABS or traction control.

Wow! Your vehicle is REALLY on the higher side of fun. How does it behave on the street? This reminds me of an F-body LT1 at the junkyard. Someone got to it to get the Opti and intake, but it was basically an intact long block, which i could've scooped up for a mere $180. I was tempted to pull just heads, but had no time that day. I want the Fleetwood to be faster, its a bug, but i have the s10 blazer with a mild 355 SBC. Today is cleaning day, all brackets and bolts are due. Time to finish painting the frame and engine bay, and put things in order to assemble the LT1. Not fun, looks like the rear on intake of original LT1 had a nice leak, all parts are pretty dirty. I want to clean up the intake and make it stand out. I found some valve covers on Amazon that i think will blend in fine with the LT1. Jay! I love AC, but my lines have been exposed for so long i feel like doing a major overhaul, or find a way to properly flush the entire system. I was used to driving it as is, in all weather (even snow and ice). Lots to do! Enjoy your weekend guys, I'll be decreasing like mad.

Peace
 

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Super Moderator 2011 CTS SportWagon
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They won't fit, the alternator will hit the passenger side.

Interestingly, the B/D iron heads (stock) outflow most of the F body castings. They are a slightly later/better design.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
They won't fit, the alternator will hit the passenger side.

Interestingly, the B/D iron heads (stock) outflow most of the F body castings. They are a slightly later/better design.
Jay, now i see why the lt1 valve covers have their edges at a slant. Only resolution is to use the baby LT1 small alternator....no thanks. I did read about the extra "meat" iron heads have, hence the fact i want to gasket-match intake and heads. I'll pass on that for now and in the future build the old LT1 and perhaps even battle stickman lol. You guys enjoy your Sunday, I'm still cleaning parts and painting as i go.
 

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Wow! Your vehicle is REALLY on the higher side of fun. How does it behave on the street? This reminds me of an F-body LT1 at the junkyard. Someone got to it to get the Opti and intake, but it was basically an intact long block, which i could've scooped up for a mere $180. I was tempted to pull just heads, but had no time that day. I want the Fleetwood to be faster, its a bug, but i have the s10 blazer with a mild 355 SBC. Today is cleaning day, all brackets and bolts are due. Time to finish painting the frame and engine bay, and put things in order to assemble the LT1. Not fun, looks like the rear on intake of original LT1 had a nice leak, all parts are pretty dirty. I want to clean up the intake and make it stand out. I found some valve covers on Amazon that i think will blend in fine with the LT1. Jay! I love AC, but my lines have been exposed for so long i feel like doing a major overhaul, or find a way to properly flush the entire system. I was used to driving it as is, in all weather (even snow and ice). Lots to do! Enjoy your weekend guys, I'll be decreasing like mad.

Peace
The car really is quite tame when driven normally. BUT get on it and that racing trans shifts HARD. I have had it chirp the tires on a 1-2 shift at part throttle. But I can go anywhere in it.
 
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