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2004 Deville, 01 SLS, 00 STS, 04 C5 Convert 67 Stang Convert
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Discussion Starter #1
My 16 year old son is driving his dream, a 2000 black on black STS with moonroof. We bought it while he was 15 and I helped him replace the headgaskets and he's been driving it since November. His only complaint is he wants more bass, as in way more bass from the factory Bose system. I know, but he's 16, there are a few other things we don't agree on too. Anyway, I have several parts cars with factory Bose systems. Would we be able to add a couple more factory subs to the existing system without adding an amp? If so I assume I would wire them in parallel from the rear sub connection? Has anyone done something similar?
Thanks!
 

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2006 STS V Tango int
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I don't think so.... You'll probably have to add an amp, sub and line out converter.... You can get the remote wire from the amp behind the back seat and the battery is under the backseat so that makes the power wire easy to run
 

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PaleAle said:
My 16 year old son is driving his dream, a 2000 black on black STS with moonroof. We bought it while he was 15 and I helped him replace the headgaskets and he's been driving it since November. His only complaint is he wants more bass, as in way more bass from the factory Bose system. I know, but he's 16, there are a few other things we don't agree on too. Anyway, I have several parts cars with factory Bose systems. Would we be able to add a couple more factory subs to the existing system without adding an amp? If so I assume I would wire them in parallel from the rear sub connection? Has anyone done something similar?
Thanks!
Running parallel off of same amp will drop the ohm load, I am not sure how the Bose amp would adjust to the additional load. It could fry your outputs, might not. Bose amps are kinda spendy , but if you got a couple of extras amps laying around its worth try

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PaleAle said:
My 16 year old son is driving his dream, a 2000 black on black STS with moonroof. We bought it while he was 15 and I helped him replace the headgaskets and he's been driving it since November. His only complaint is he wants more bass, as in way more bass from the factory Bose system. I know, but he's 16, there are a few other things we don't agree on too. Anyway, I have several parts cars with factory Bose systems. Would we be able to add a couple more factory subs to the existing system without adding an amp? If so I assume I would wire them in parallel from the rear sub connection? Has anyone done something similar?
Thanks!
Running additional speakers parallel will drop the OHMs, this will increase the load on your amp, it may or may not adapt to the load change. It's possible that after time and amplified use it will heat up and could fail. Bose amps are expensive. If you have another amp and sub in one of your parts cars I would wire them up and have two poweramps. One for each sub.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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No offense intended, but the Bose system is "voiced" to sound like acoustic music played in an unamplified environment: The Purist approach. Most electronic, unnatural music carries a heavy bass punch in the 80 - 160 Hz (upper bass) range. Unfortunately, the Bose systems also use dedicated amps and ultra-low resistance ( Ω ) speakers. The woofer is voiced for a musical bass line from about 30 Hz to 120 Hz. As posted, the only way to supplement the existing woofer is to add more woofer surface area - a tuned box in the trunk.

The first two replies get you started, there's more info in the Discussions, Item Specific: Audio, Video, Security forum. An online aftermarket sound dealer, Crutchfield, has adapters and systems for just such bass enhancement work. You might try to Google something like "cadillac forums seville bass speaker installation" or other close queries.
 

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I agree with sub if you want a lot of bass you wont get it from a free air sub, free air subs have very limited rms handling capabilities about 75 watts max.sealed is the way to go If he wants to rattle the pictures off the wall in the house from the drive....lol:)
 

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2004 Deville, 01 SLS, 00 STS, 04 C5 Convert 67 Stang Convert
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Discussion Starter #6
Blue Angel,
"If he wants to rattle the pictures off the wall in the house from the drive....lol "
That is exactly what he wants. Unfortunately, his dreams exceed his budget. I would rather he spend his money paying for his own insurance but that conversation probably belongs in a new forum called Teenage Wasteland or something similar. I'm really kidding here. It's his car. Who am I to say what music he should play or what it should sound like?
Thanks everyone as always for the replies.
Even though I'm less than enthused with the project, my plan was to build a box to house one or two factory subs for the trunk. Because of cost concerns, this is all on his dime not mine, I thought this might work.
Sub, if I do this are you suggesting that I need to find a different crossover capacitor to get these in the higher range? Or is that range outside of these stock speakers.
Where is the amp for the sub located? Maybe I'll try adding another stock amp and build a box in the trunk . It sounds like a cool father son project, all the while listening to some of my music. Sheesh, my dad complained about Led Zeppelin and the Allmann Brothers Band, imagine him hearing Lil Wayne.
Personally, I like the Bose systems just as they are.
 

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The woofer(s) purchased will determine the box size and loading. If the Bose HU (I don't know .....) allows you to tap into the bass audio line level output then a simple crossover would work - there are several companies that make plug-in (RCA in, RCA out) bandpass line level passive crossovers. Cheap - simple R/C circuits on a mini circuit board. Auto audio installer shops.

Snoop through the Audio, Video, Security forum.

You WILL need a good amp and the HD copper cabling to handle 12V power delivery and audio output to the speaker(s).

EDIT: I may have a few passive line level crossovers out in the shop. Need to go to an appointment. Will post yes or no later - if I have any left they're yours for the shipping cost - featherweight, so would go in a USPS box.
 

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PaleAle said:
Where is the amp for the sub located? Maybe I'll try adding another stock amp and build a box in the trunk .
You can't add additional stock amps, and there's no point in putting additional stick, open air subs, in a box. One 10" or 12" boxed sub, with one after market amp, will be plenty.

If he just wants LOUD. Just go to Pep Boys or Best Buy, and buy a cheap sub kit.
 

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MoistCabbage said:
You can't add additional stock amps, and there's no point in putting additional stick, open air subs, in a box. One 10" or 12" boxed sub, with one after market amp, will be plenty.

If he just wants LOUD. Just go to Pep Boys or Best Buy, and buy a cheap sub kit.
Im curious as to why a second stock amp would not work, when a aftermarket would with crossover. Even if the HU needs to see it virtually how would the head unit know it was there? unless its wired like a cable box (proprietary function) for the benefit of what? so it's alarmed by signal splitting. Signed curious....???? Was really addressing the notion of using what was available at hand as they have the parts , And would be more practical than running parallel ( eliminating possible damage to the amp) i think he was trying to exhaust all the options before heading that direction....I could be wrong. I don't think loud is it. I think he want serious bass ( in the low band).
 

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I replaced my Bose 6x9's with Infinity Reference series that run @2ohm. These are the only ones that will work with the Bose amps. If you slap a standard 4ohm after market on it, they won't push.
 

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The stock amp is not just a sub amp. It's the amp for the whole system. Beyond that, it's not JUST an amp. It, like every other module in the car, is tied into the serial data bus, and OBD. You can't just add another one. An after market amp is "dumb", and simple: Connect power, connect input, connect sub. Again, adding more stock subs, that are not designed to be boxed, would be a waste of time.

The sub kits I mentioned: Yes, cheap, loud bass. Will the sound quality be the same as higher priced components? No. But I doubt he'll care, or even notice.
 

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MoistCabbage said:
The stock amp is not just a sub amp. It's the amp for the whole system. Beyond that, it's not JUST an amp. It, like every other module in the car, is tied into the serial data bus, and OBD. You can't just add another one. An after market amp is "dumb", and simple: Connect power, connect input, connect sub. Again, adding more stock subs, that are not designed to be boxed, would be a waste of time.

The sub kits I mentioned: Yes, cheap, loud bass. Will the sound quality be the same as higher priced components? No. But I doubt he'll care, or even notice.
Learned something new. I thought it was dedicated to the sub. Thanks .
 

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I tapped into my rear speaker leads. My 96 has mini amps mounted on speaker magnet. I put a tee connector on speaker terminal spade connector. I fed this +\- signal to high level input on a 120v powered sub designed for home use. I did it as a test in my garage. Yes, I picked up some bass. Did it affect the sound quality from that one speaker? Not sure. Would it affect the life span of that one speakers amp due to a different load? Don't know. Heck, I could hook up my 120v/12v inverter and have a really sweet ghetto system. A typical car amp is 12v. My powered sub is 120v but I have inverter. What's "wrong" with that? It works. But than, most folks say subs in a car is stupid.
 

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OldStalePaleAle, I checked - have a slew of line level passive hi-pass and low-pass crossovers. If you want to jump in with both feet PM me - I'll send off a pair of 100Hz crossovers - if you/he install a low freq amp/speakers the low pass will filter out everything over 100 Hz.

USPS postage only ......... I can also make you any bandpass/high/low crossover you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ha,
Stale? Not.. Brewed right here in St Paul. Summit Extra Pale Ale. Surpassed my previous favorite which was Bass Ale, never fresh here. Try it! PM sent. Thanks!
 

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PM sent back.

Hint: When you complete the woofer install, play some bass-heavy music through ONLY the bass amp/speaker. Sense the impact of the leading edge of the note. Now play the same music full-range. Impact lessened ??? Reverse the power amp + (red) - (black) connectors at the speaker - phasing. Enjoy.
 

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if you really wanna play songs that have really strong bass levels play these : Cat Daddy By The Rej3ctz or Mercy By Kanye West, these are hip hop songs but they are great for Bass testing purposes Beware they have a little swaring :D
 
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