What I have done to all 3 of my fleetwoods was change the rear springs.. I would look on rockauto and get what they are selling. You won't find the same weak springs that are in there. You will just find the stock type ride not the floaty one that came with the car. Then you can put any type shock in the rear.. I went with the air shocks with the filler behind the plate..

 

Yea, springs were going to be a separate question. I've read about how the rear springs with the air ride are the softest of the B and D body springs and just putting any other spring back there will make it better, but I don't yet have a good concept of how this works with the air load leveling. I don't have a good idea how the air load leveling works at all, does it target a specific height or does it target level, and what if anything it does to the rear spring rate.

I have run across someone road racing a similar vintage Caprice and he's continually trying to find softer rear springs to get the back tires planted better in the turns, but the symptoms he's describing to me sound like he really needs a softer sway bar.

In terms of ride height, I haven't decided where I'm going with that. Between all the trim, body cladding, the way the wheels are tucked in, skirts... there's a lot going on. I also don't like the tail-dragging stance that eibach and many performance springs usually give most cars. My instinct is that I'm going to want to stay pretty close to stock ride height in the back and drop the front a little, but again, I'm not sure yet, and again, I don't know how the rear load leveling is going to affect this.

 

I have a set of these on the front:

Amazon.com: ACDelco Specialty 519-36 Front Spring Assisted Shock Absorber : Automotive

Buy ACDelco Specialty 519-36 Front Spring Assisted Shock Absorber: Shocks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

and these on the rear:

Amazon.com: ACDelco Specialty 504-511 Rear Air Lift Shock Absorber : Automotive

Buy ACDelco Specialty 504-511 Rear Air Lift Shock Absorber: Shocks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

You can put a bunch of air in the rear and it stiffens the ride but it does raise the rear. The front, if the suspension needs rebuilding, will wander all over the road. If you are going to replace springs, then now would be a good time to go through it all since you'll be disassembling some of it to remove the springs. I do recommend a good spring tool so you don't hurt yourself. If in fact you do take the upper and lower control arms off and have them rebuilt, don't tighten everything up while it sits on jack stands as it won't settle correctly. Get it on the ground with some blocks under the lower control arms and then tighten everything up. I have to do a full front end rebuild on my hearse because the springs and bushings are shot but I'll be pressing in new bushings and not replacing the control arms. It is much cheaper to go that route especially with the added weight on my vehicle. Here is the spring tool I use:

Amazon.com: OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor : Automotive

Buy OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor: Coil Springs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

The price has gone up considerably since I purchased mine in 2016 but it is a very good tool and you may find one similar to it cheaper elsewhere.

I saw that you were a new member so welcome. For tips and tricks you can also look at the forums below. If you have to replace the EGR Valve, the people on that forum recommend the EGR valve for a Camaro / Firebird with a standard transmission as they seem to hold up much longer than the standard Cadillac one. This forum has a lot of good information and people that have a lot of info regarding Cadillac products. For part numbers, I go to GM Parts Giant and try to find the original number then cross reference it out using Google. There is also Rock Auto which carries a lot of parts for older cars but be careful with them as they do charge shipping and sometimes they ship the wrong thing. There is a guy who can reprogram PCM modules and I found him on one of those forums and I think he charges about $75 to program them but I could be off on the price. Lots of GM people in here, unfortunately I'm an odd one because I own all Fords and one VW.

Chevy Impala SS Forum

A forum community dedicated to Chevy Impala SS owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!

www.impalassforum.com

LS1LT1 Forum

A forum community dedicated to all LS1 and LT1 powered vehicles owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, specs, builds, conversions, swaps, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!

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I have a set of these on the front:

Amazon.com: ACDelco Specialty 519-36 Front Spring Assisted Shock Absorber : Automotive

Buy ACDelco Specialty 519-36 Front Spring Assisted Shock Absorber: Shocks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

and these on the rear:

Amazon.com: ACDelco Specialty 504-511 Rear Air Lift Shock Absorber : Automotive

Buy ACDelco Specialty 504-511 Rear Air Lift Shock Absorber: Shocks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

You can put a bunch of air in the rear and it stiffens the ride but it does raise the rear.

So it looks like you want more spring rate F and R which I agree with, but both these solutions will raise the car, which is something I don't want to do, especially with the size and mass that is already there... that needs to go as low as possible. I didn't even know those front springs existed...

The front, if the suspension needs rebuilding, will wander all over the road.

The guy that I bought it from literally just put it through a PA safety inspection and just put $1300 worth of front suspension and steering parts on it (they all still have the coat of "paint" that they come with out of the box that washes off the first time it rains on it). I'm assuming (but I haven't jacked it up and tested it yet) that those parts are in good shape, but I'm not thrilled with the alignment from what I'm feeling, I feel like it needs the cross camber set better, and it needs MUCH more caster for the road feel that I'd want.

If you are going to replace springs, then now would be a good time to go through it all since you'll be disassembling some of it to remove the springs. I do recommend a good spring tool so you don't hurt yourself. If in fact you do take the upper and lower control arms off and have them rebuilt, don't tighten everything up while it sits on jack stands as it won't settle correctly. Get it on the ground with some blocks under the lower control arms and then tighten everything up. I have to do a full front end rebuild on my hearse because the springs and bushings are shot but I'll be pressing in new bushings and not replacing the control arms. It is much cheaper to go that route especially with the added weight on my vehicle. Here is the spring tool I use:

Amazon.com: OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor : Automotive

Buy OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor: Coil Springs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

The price has gone up considerably since I purchased mine in 2016 but it is a very good tool and you may find one similar to it cheaper elsewhere.

I used to be a competitive autocrosser, road racer, and regular drag racer and used to work at a speed shop doing installs and custom fabrication. I appreciate the pointers, and I own that style of spring compressor as well as 2 others (that one is my favorite for doing GM front springs, though on many if you go short enough you don't need a spring compressor to install if the car is heavy enough).

One of my "street" cars which gets raced a bit is an '87 Trans Am which I have homemade front weight jacks and viking rear adjustable coilovers, full tubular K and and custom fabricated tubular front and rear suspensions. Right now I'm running 950lb front springs and 200lb rear springs, everything, including ride height and corner weights are fully adjustable and about 80% of the parts I build myself.

I saw that you were a new member so welcome.

Thanks!

For tips and tricks you can also look at the forums below. If you have to replace the EGR Valve, the people on that forum recommend the EGR valve for a Camaro / Firebird with a standard transmission as they seem to hold up much longer than the standard Cadillac one. This forum has a lot of good information and people that have a lot of info regarding Cadillac products. For part numbers, I go to GM Parts Giant and try to find the original number then cross reference it out using Google. There is also Rock Auto which carries a lot of parts for older cars but be careful with them as they do charge shipping and sometimes they ship the wrong thing. There is a guy who can reprogram PCM modules and I found him on one of those forums and I think he charges about $75 to program them but I could be off on the price. Lots of GM people in here, unfortunately I'm an odd one because I own all Fords and one VW.

Chevy Impala SS Forum

A forum community dedicated to Chevy Impala SS owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!

www.impalassforum.com

LS1LT1 Forum

A forum community dedicated to all LS1 and LT1 powered vehicles owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, specs, builds, conversions, swaps, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!

www.ls1lt1.com

Again, thanks for the tips.

I've posted almost the same question to one of those forums already with no answers:
KYB or Bilstein?

Since my car is a '93 the engine is an L05, which I'm very familiar with since I owned a '92 K1500 Blazer with the same drivetrain and back in the day I was involved with the original GM ECM hacking movement which focused on the TBI ECM's. My first "race" car was also an '83 Crossfire Trans Am, one of the earliest TBI cars, and that got replaced by a '97 WS6 Trans Am that I bought new and was one of my most serious race cars, so I'm very familiar with the LT1 drivetrains.

The current "race" car (lol, or street car depending on when you ask me), the '87 Trans Am with adjustable custom everything suspension, also has a weird bastard engine, a small block bottom end, with aluminum LT1 heads which I welded the coolant passages and a bunch of the bolt holes shut, repositioned/re-routed them and made them work on the small block, then converted an old school victor Jr intake to EFI and added an LSx style throttle body.

As far as parts I still have some of my contacts from the speed shop, and a friend of mine is the parts manager at the local Cadillac dealer

Lots of GM people in here, unfortunately I'm an odd one because I own all Fords and one VW.

Ford stuff huh?

My daily driver is a 2012 Taurus SHO, which I'm ditching and replacing with this FLB- I like the twin-turbo awd chassis and the creature comforts, but with the cam phasers being a $6-7K repair and it suddenly becoming a basket case (2 random different coolant leaks, various sensors...) I've decided it's time for it to go. The SHO and the FWB are about the same weight and I'm hoping to end up with similar handling and acceleration from the FWB, but in a more reliable, traditional package.

My other project is a '71 Mach 1 Mustang- M code 4bbl ram air car with the factory track pack (factory C6 trans with high stall converter and shift kit, factory 4.10 gears and detroit locker, staggered rear shocks and suspension setup for drag racing...)

I also have a Cummins Dodge which puts down over 1000lb-ft to the ground through 36" tires riding on modified Hummer wheels...

 

Rancho brand out does them all. Monroe is least favorable.

 

Which Ranchos? I know it used to be a thing to put the adjustable Rancho 9000's on classic cars like first-generation Mustangs...

 

Moved from this thead:

Floor mats for '93-96 FWB

Any recommendations for floor mats? I'm not set on anything specific, I just hate when they move around and/or wad up don't cover well, and don't want to spend tons of money either. I'm OK with rubber or carpet, as long as they're heavier and don't wad up, I have a set in my Cummins Dodge...

www.cadillacforums.com

It sounds as though you've snagged a competent driver, and at an attractive price - especially for that low mileage

I've been looking for a few weeks and have driven as far as 500miles to look at others that were 3x the cost, mechanically not as sound, 1.5x the miles, and had cosmetic problems that were harder to fix. I wish I was starting with a slightly nicer one, but honestly I'm very happy with what I got.

I caught that you're hunting down shocks currently, and I'd side with Bilsteins. They are on my Impala SS and an '88 Monte Carlo SS, aaaand they were on my first FWB (my AV pic). The current driver has those Monroe S.Serv., but for the saved cost they've only replaced the Bilstein's 'planted' and 'firm footing' with just 'stiffer' and 'more abrupt'. Highly technical, I know.

OK, strike the Monroes from the list... I have lots of questions about your first FWB and the list of mods in your sig.

That leaves me with the KYB and Bilstein. I'm not sure what to do there. If the KYB's work as well but last half the time for 1/3 the cost... they look to be an hour job for all 4, I'll go KYB, but if the Bilsteins are better then I should just throw down the ducats and be done with it.

and then I need to figure out springs

Otherwise, fear not the nostalgic floatie blokes, as most are not likely dragging their creampuffs into lo-brow daily commutes. I enjoy pushing mine around as much as it'll permit, and find the same similar mods to the coils, shocks, stab bars, rear LCAes and wheels n tires provide gratifying upgrade to the FE1 stock setup.

Mine is an FE1 car also...

My initial impression is that it could stand to lose a little altitude from the front, and gain spring rate F and R, but the stabilizer bars (sway bars) appear to be fairly substantial for the car- with all the floating around and with the tall 235/70-15s it still takes highway ramps very flat...

I've never been a big fan of rear LCAs but I do understand they were a thing with the Impala guys, especially the adjustable ones to center the rear wheels in the wheel wells. I'll have to look and decide later, I may just box the stock ones and debate what to do with the bushings.

The open rear dif is bothering me, I'm debating trying to find a soft-acting lunchbox locker (maybe the newer lockright?) and dropping it in during a lube change. Alternatively, I know where I can get a suburban to part out and I could steal the gov-lock from it, but then I'd be tempted to take the factory gears also (they should be 3.42 or 3.73, my FWB has the optional 3.08 and I'm really wondering what off the line with the 3.08 and an aftermarket converter would be like, this thing actually got 24mpg on the 150mile ride home from buying it)

You ought to have fun with yours. I hear that official 'maybe not an LT- but still a nice TB 350 SBC' can get pepped up with just a little work. When you have the setup the way you like, then get a tune.

LOL, I've been digging through my parts stash and I'm debating throwing some of that at it. Right now some of what stands out are some CNC Trick flow heads, a custom grind turbo cam (hydraulic roller, 224/224/114), and I have 2 or 3 turbos sitting on the shelf that would be reasonably sized for that mess. I also have 2 turbo manifolds that I've made for other things that might fit... they were both built for LT1 cars but they might be close enough to fit.

 

Plunking in comments as fitting:
Quote - GrolarBear,
Yea, springs were going to be a separate question. I've read about how the rear springs with the air ride are the softest of the B and D body springs
I consider all D-bodies get ELC (except perhaps Livery but not even sure of that), and the base FW and FWB come with FE1 coils (and shocks and sway bars). Not that those are the 'same' FE1 versions or part nos. as any other division's. I recall the 'Tow Package' V4P gets FE2 and a 3.42 rear, where FW gets 2.56 and the Brougham get 2.93. Your other post says you got 3.09 - so that's a plus.
and just putting any other spring back there will make it better, but I don't yet have a good concept of how this works with the air load leveling. I don't have a good idea how the air load leveling works at all, does it target a specific height or does it target level, and what if anything it does to the rear spring rate.
ELC - The coils are designed to rest the car ~1 1/2" lower than oem spec riding ht. The 'air load leveleing' is nothing more than any other normal airshocks, but hooked to an automatic compressor vs. a Schrader valve. And just from sketchy memory, at start the pump runs a test routine to pump up set amount of time and release until riding ht. is met. If the back gets pumped up and looks like Hyjackers pumped to 150# with L60-15s then you know the exhaust solenoid is broke (v. common failure).
I have run across someone road racing a similar vintage Caprice and he's continually trying to find softer rear springs to get the back tires planted better in the turns, but the symptoms he's describing to me sound like he really needs a softer sway bar.

In terms of ride height, I haven't decided where I'm going with that. Between all the trim, body cladding, the way the wheels are tucked in, skirts... there's a lot going on. I also don't like the tail-dragging stance that eibach and many performance springs usually give most cars. My instinct is that I'm going to want to stay pretty close to stock ride height in the back and drop the front a little, but again, I'm not sure yet, and again, I don't know how the rear load leveling is going to affect this.
I agree a little rake is attractive, and mine still has the FE1 rears, but with just a few lbs. in Airlift1000 coil bladders to get close to stock ht. When getting the current FWB to replace 'ol FTSS I thought I'd like a tad less 'firmness' in the ride so cut 1/3 coil off the stock fronts to get a 1" drop. I thought wrong. I've since gotten a set of used SS fronts and buying new Bilsteins. The same guy sold me used Bilstein rears so I'll judge whether different coils are called for after that. And as a note, most everyone has found their ELC comp. has long-expired by now. If yours works then great. Level is fine tuned by adjustable little rod attached to the LCA and an arm on rheostat switch bolted to the frame. When mine worked I found to get it set where I wanted required to unnut and move the arm off the arm, grind a divit in the arm and re-attach using a fender washer as a sort of squeeze connection. sounds complicated.
Obviously with any better performance shocks means ditching the airshocks altogether. If the compressor works then it's still possible with small mods to make it function with the Airlift bladders.
Others have to be used to (read tired of) this pic by now, but shows 2" drop using old SS coils vs. oem:

 

When getting the current FWB to replace 'ol FTSS I thought I'd like a tad less 'firmness' in the ride so cut 1/3 coil off the stock fronts to get a 1" drop. I thought wrong. I've since gotten a set of used SS fronts and buying new Bilsteins. The same guy sold me used Bilstein rears so I'll judge whether different coils are called for after that

What went wrong with that?

Cutting coils can be a bit of a crapshoot, but it can be calculated also. Cutting coils will increase the spring rate so if you work it out right it should, in theory, work. I wish I could find a chart/info on spring rates and ride heights for B and D bodies (as far as what I've seen so far, the fleet caprices and other commercial chassis sat an inch higher, and you're saying the Impala SS sat 2" lower, I haven't seen any real info about spring rates besides that they appear to be in the mid 500's on the front and most GM RWD stuff was 100-200 in the back).

My general experience is that softer factory springs gain spring rate faster than performance springs when you cut them, so when you cut performance springs they often are too short by the time you get the spring rate you want, but FE1 (FE1 and FE2 were both soft spring packages on f-bodies which I'm most familiar with) can be cut a bit without ending up too short.

Not having had a set in my hands yet, my guess would be that 2/3 - 1 1/3 coils (GM coils tend to go in 1/3 turn increments) cut on these should end up about 1.5-2" drop from stock, and a reasonable increase in spring rate (If someone had coil diameter, wire diameter and free coil information for the springs I could calculate the rates). Usually, if the spring rate doesn't go up fast enough the quick/dirty solution is that GM cars that used straight top coils on their rear springs (no pigtail) used thicker rubber or urethane isolators in the .75"-1.5" thickness range and you can use those as front isolators to raise the ride height after getting the spring rate high enough.

Of course, I would love to just know "get this PN and you'll be happy."

 

Relative to your interest in KYB, I followed up on a lead from a trusted source pointing to them and jumped on a pair of fronts by quick order and real good price from a Carquest. They were nice and white with neat decals and I just slapped them on with the SS coils. Well, they were very 'not good' as in wishy washy, and I checked the receipt and they weren't the Gas-Ajust monotube. They were just an oem replacement type. So, so much for that great price, and so I gave them to that friend for one of his B- bodies. And then got Bilsteins.

 

So the regular ones don't work, I knew that... they've always been the cheap answer for shocks and struts but they really weren't any better than regular Monroes or Gabriels...


Is there somewhere specific you're getting the SS coil springs? Are they the 2" shorter springs in your pictures?

 

Yes, my load leveling appears to still be working, at least the pump runs every once in a while and the light lights up on the dash.

So reading what you wrote it looks like swapping aftermarket shocks in the back means losing the load level unless they're highjacker-type shocks or unless you work something out with airbags. I actually have a set of airlift bags sitting around (I've used them for preloading the suspension on a drag racing car).

It sounds like some slightly shorter, stiffer springs and Bilsteins or KYBs in the front and stiffer springs (something normal for a b-body), and the stock air leveling and adjusting the height is the quick way to upgrade if my load leveling works and I want to keep it. Past that adding aftermarket air shocks (none of which are really made for handling) and then adding shocks to match the front and making something work with the airlift bags or giving up on the load leveling is the next step up.

I just got this in the mail, $12 ebay find, but I'm not diving in there till after I finish my taxes

 

Yah, the gray car was after installing the used SS coils all around. I know of no 'always has some' supply of those old coils, and it's more a case of watching or posting in the WTS/WTB section and getting response from one of the more trusted oldsters with an earned rep. When I saw a pair of fronts FS I jumped, based on the seller alone (in this case on the Impala SS Forum).

"....Past that adding aftermarket air shocks (none of which are really made for handling)..."
Yah Mr. -Bear, more than one occasion on the forums that a fella wasn't swayed from thinking replacement with 'Genuine GM Dealer OEM Official' airshocks wasn't the absolute primo performance option. I mean really, if they're $400 plus install they must be the best.

 

SO....

Interesting data point- I talked to a custom spring maker that didn't seem to know what interchanged with what and was surprised when I said stuff like "the springs from this car will fit..." but he was able to look up stock spring rates and had enough info to calculate height:
'93 FWB
F- 389lbs/in
R- 133lbs/in

'95 Impala SS (he didn't believe me that they would fit)
F- 470Lbs/in
R- 160Lbs/in
"and that will sit quite a bit lower but I don't have time to calculate it right now"

We both agreed that my car at 30y/o and 50K miles are probably sagging about 1/2" from stock, so a 2" drop spring should be about 1.5" shorter than what I have now.

These rates are WAY less than what I've seen published on some forums with Moog replacement springs.

I also tried searching some of the moog numbers and wasn't able to find any in stock anywhere... He mentioned that there is a national shortage of springs and most of the moog stuff is out of stock.

He can make anything I want to order (height and rate) but they run $300/pair (which really is not terrible for completely custom parts, but still, if I could find the right factory replacement springs they should be <$200 for all 4.

 

"What went wrong with that? "
The Fleetwood is still riding those cut oem coils, and still currently with the Monroe S.S. As I've now recently snagged those used front SS coils and the used rear Bilsteins, one of my Top 35 will be to of course get new front Bilsteins and something decent to replace the oem rear coils and then pick out a nice Saturday for underneath the car.

The numbers your spring guy shows is the range I've heard over the decades. H.D. autocrossers and young-uns what want racing feel seem to go after the 750# area for fronts at least.

And just for rough reference, I've not put a tape to the fender lip but I think my garage queen has dropped more than 1/2" in its lifetime. I sure would not to have it any lower for the street. I've been known to head down a gravel road or two on nice Sunday drives with the wife:

And for trivia the No.1 on my Top 35 is that this one is up on stands getting its tranny dropped for rebuild.

 

"What went wrong with that? "
The Fleetwood is still riding those cut oem coils, and still currently with the Monroe S.S. As I've now recently snagged those used front SS coils and the used rear Bilsteins, one of my Top 35 will be to of course get new front Bilsteins and something decent to replace the oem rear coils and then pick out a nice Saturday for underneath the car.

Yea, but clearly there's something that you don't like with the 1/3 coil cut stock springs, is it the ride height, spring rate...? I know that you don't like the Monroe SS shocks.

My guess based on what you've said is that the ride height is too tall and the spring rate is too soft (though it might still be a harsh ride based on what you said about the shocks)

The numbers your spring guy shows is the range I've heard over the decades. H.D. autocrossers and young-uns what want racing feel seem to go after the 750# area for fronts at least.

My Trans Am and my Formula have 960 and 890# front springs, respectively. The LCA geometry is the same as the G bodies, S10 trucks... have which I believe translates to B and D bodies since some of the front spring PN's overlap.

Based on my experience with them, and the fact that my stock springs are just under 400, I'm guessing that I'm looking for a front spring in the 500-600lb range. The spring guy recommended 538.

What do you mean by your top 35?

While I'm at it, what does FTSS stand for?

-Mark

 

You know, looking at this section of my spreadsheet (which notes actual dimensions vs published... in another section) I have all of these and more in the garage, and I'm betting that the stock TA (also Z28, Iroc...) springs are very close to what I want. I know that they have the right coil diameters and the free and installed heights are within 1" of what I'm seeing for B and D body springs...

I wish I had a few B and D body springs sitting around to measure...

 

QUOTE="GrolarBear,
Yea, but clearly there's something that you don't like with the 1/3 coil cut stock springs, is it the ride height, spring rate...? I know that you don't like the Monroe SS shocks.
The 1" drop is fine, but either just that or in combo with the Monroe S.S.es I can watch the hood & fenders jittering down most any road and an accompanying ride like there's 80# in the tires. Not really much can be done with any FE1 coils except replace them.
My guess based on what you've said is that the ride height is too tall and the spring rate is too soft (though it might still be a harsh ride based on what you said about the shocks)
Yes, Yes, Yes, and Yes. When I had first cut a whole coil of the oem fronts on my first Fleetwood's I got a nice 2" drop, and understandably stiffened up things a lot. But whether or not the 'not Gas-Adjust' shock's fault I smacked the cx-member so hard a couple times on dips I thought I might have splayed the frame.

My Trans Am and my Formula have 960 and 890# front springs, respectively. The LCA geometry is the same as the G bodies, S10 trucks... have which I believe translates to B and D bodies since some of the front spring PN's overlap.

Based on my experience with them, and the fact that my stock springs are just under 400, I'm guessing that I'm looking for a front spring in the 500-600lb range. The spring guy recommended 538.

What do you mean by your top 35?
Blokes have their Top 10 lists for most things. Mine are are long enough to guarantee I'll never outlive the whole list.
While I'm at it, what does FTSS stand for?
Careful what you ask for. I drug this poor guy through the wringer with TMI:

BTW, that * * * * * * up there is the highly offensive phrase "on-the-other-forum"

-Mark

 

BTW, that * * * * * * up there is the highly offensive phrase "on-the-other-forum"

What's an offensive phrase?

 

LOL, only 35. I'd bet that I have at least that many cars I'd like to build, how many projects can you generate from one car build? Currently:

• I'm building a complete tubular suspension/F weight jacks/R coil overs/fabricating a big brake conversion for my Trans Am, these are the parts I made/modified and then powder coated last week (minus what's in the oven when I took the picture:
• Completely rebuilding the front driveline of my Cummins Dodge
• Assorted tinkerings with my 71 Mach 1 Mustang
• Demodding my daily Taurus SHO to sell or carmax it because
• I got a new daily, '93 FWB which is getting assorted suspension work (my higher rate KYB shocks came in, I'm debating trying to make the rear load leveling work with airbags in the pace of the stock shocks), got the R12 AC working (converted it to run on dust off canned air, it still has some weird fittings on it I need to replace, someone put a high side fitting on the low side and a fitting I don't recognize on the high side), trying to figure out some sort of head unit/backup camera, various cleaning and fixing the leather, dropping the tank to fix/replace the sender hopefully getting the gas gauge working...
• Who knows what will be finished and what will have my attention by next week?

BTW, is your name Mark also or is that an artifact of how you quoted my text?

 

FWIW, if anyone cares I've decided to go with the stiffer valved KYBs.

I can't figure out springs. Seems like anything close, like the recommended replacement Moog PNs for the Impala are out of stock EVERYWHERE, and I haven't seen any stock Impala SS springs anywhere. I'm kind of wondering if something like the Eibach springs would get me in a reasonable range, they're listed 1.2" and 1" lower than stock, but it's not clear stock what and how sagged he Impala SS springs we've been talking about are.