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Discussion Starter #1
this morning i went and got some mas cleaner and after i was done cleaning it i started the car it sounded a little better but i could still hear it misfiring i reved it up and i heard a snap ....................................... tried to crank it but no dice pulled back the timming cover and saw the belt was broken now the question i have is when i replace the belt do i need to change the tension pulley and is that on the water pump i just bought this car about 6 months ago and ive driven it for maybe 30 days i hope i didnt bend any valves does any one have a diagram of how to do this:confused:
 

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1998 Catera
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I just did the TB replacement - but mine wasn't broken, so that changes things quite a bit. I'm no expert, but if it broke at high RPM... ooch! You don't have to be an expert to know metal to metal at high speeds is bad. ~~Ray of Hope - When I was reading on this forum in prep for the job, I did read of at least one person whose broke while driving and didn't have any damage~~

To answer your questions...

The tensioner is not on the water pump, its just often suggested to change it while you're there since you have everything off anyway. I decided not to replace mine since it looked brand new (and I after doing the job, I didn't think it was that bad getting to it). There is one tensioner, on the same bracket as one of the two pulleys. My kit came with the tensioner and pulley attached to a new bracket. You should change the tensioner and pulleys (thats what I was told from many sources at least)

You'll have to go through the timing procedure (which I never did, since my belt was intact it was timed when I started) The Basic procedure to get to it, from memory, is:
- remove the plastic intake ducting (four bolts to brackets, about 4 sensor connectors, two intake connections to pleneum, one smaller rubber hose to pleneum)
- remove air cross over pipe; aluminum pipe goes from one side to the other just behind the radiator
- loosen PS pump pulley and crank shaft pulley bolts
- remove serpentine belt
- remove PS pump pulley and crank shaft pulley
- remove Timing Belt cover

Here I aligned the timing marks, used the timing tool to lock the cams (I used a wire to fix them to the cams because they were loose - this calmed my worries that it would slip out and cause the timing to be off), replaced the belt with the belt marks aligned, cranked through two revs adjusted pulleys-repeated this step until aligned. Replace everything in the reverse order.

Note: This is an OVERVIEW of the procedure. There's alot of details left out - the important ones being on the actual belt replacement.

The procedure that came with the belt kit was much more helpful than the service manual - but it still took quite a bit of studying to figure out what it was talking about.

You would have to determine if any damage was done, then execute the timing procedure. Sorry, but this is way out of my skill level.

Sorry to be so long winded, hope it helps. I may be able to provide more specific info if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
MY BELT WASNT BROKEN actually it had slipped off the previous owner replaced it about 7months ago im thinkin that he put it on wrong because the belt is actually about 1to 1 and a half inches wide well when i took my belt off it was only a quarter of an inch wide it looked like i had lint in my cover from all the rubbing it was doing on the cover on my gears there are two notches how do i tell which on to use :ill:
 

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The rear cover (behind the gears) has four notches, two on the left and two on the right. There are four cam sprockets - they are laid out like this:
2 ~ 3
1 ~ ~ 4

There are two alignment marks on each sprocket #1 and #2 (should be labeled "1" and "2" - mine were hard to see). Same for #3 and #4, labeled "3" and "4". There is also an alignment mark on the crankshaft and the cover just below/behind it.

THE PROBLEM FOR YOU: if your belt came off or broke, your timing may be off such that if you align all the marks, some components may be 180 deg out of phase. If I'm remembering correctly, two revs of the CS equate to one rev of each of the CAMS. So, you can see that your cams could be correctly aligned with the marks, but the CS could be aligned on rev 1 instead of rev 0. So you have to go through a procedure to time the engine. I've never done it but, it involves finding TDC (top dead center) of (i think) cylinder #1, then setting each of the cams to match. Then going through a sequence of adjustments/settings and rotating the engine to get everything exactly right.

I don't know why it would have rubbed the belt down like that - and there's metal wire strands running through the core of the belt, so thats probably some serious rubbing. Can you tell from the front cover if there was one particular spot where it was rubbing?

And FYI, the 1 cam rev = 2 CS revs = some odd fraction of a rev of the total belt (I'm guessing here - something like 1/7 of a rev???). This is obvious when you do it - its only relevant in that you need to know not to expect the marks on a new belt to align after rotating the CS.

An important note - as someone no here posted before - make sure you crank through several rotations after everything is aligned. You'll know if you're off enough to do damage when you start it. And I've also read posts here that say the notches on the rear cover are not acurate enough to go off of. WHen I did mine they were within 1 toot/notch of the cam sprocket.
 
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