[MAPerformance]

Torque specs for re-installation on the way. Maybe you can help out Darkman?

If you have any questions please let me know!

Please note that I still don't have a widened factory wheel to get the biggest tire you can install with our arms. The issue at hand is that this product/project is totally funded out of my personal wallet as far as wheels/tires go. After purchasing a set of coilovers I was not ready for because of a manufacturer issue (Story, another day) funding is quite low.

I am also working on a lot of other products that are getting funded by my personal wallet, so please be patient. The big tire debacle will be solved soon once I find a company to widen my factory wheels in a decent amount of time.

Goal is to fit 315's without a spacer on a 10.5" factory widened wheel, which with all the measuring I have done shouldn't be a problem. Again, I will get the answer soon, so please don't clutter this install thread with questions concerning that subject. Please use the other thread to do so!

-Adam

 

[Gus_Mahn]

I was taught that suspension bushings should be tightened with the suspension loaded to prevent binding or pre-loading the bushings.

I'd love to have 315's, but don't want to spend the money right now. Maybe next summer. What aspect ratio keeps the stock tire height with 315's?

 

[soflarick]

Trailing arm to frame is 66 lb ft.
Front cradle bolts 195 lb ft.
Trailing arm to knuckle mount 129 lb ft.

Looks like the rear trailing arm bushing sleeve rotates in the bushing, so tightening it with a loaded suspension shouldn't be necessary. If the sleeve is vulcanized to the bushing, then yes you should.

 

[tommy compton]

Nice, I just got my clutch and trailing arms today, very impressed by the quality of both. Definitely worth the wait.

 

[MAPerformance]

Thanks Tommy.

BTW, the front cradle bushing does not need to be preloaded when installing either does the included hub bushing. Soflarick is correct when the sleeve rotates in the bushing, they are not mended together.

 

[soflarick]

What does it take to remove the factory bushing at the knuckle?

 

[RADARB8]

Trailing arm to frame is 66 lb ft.
Front cradle bolts 195 lb ft.
Trailing arm to knuckle mount 129 lb ft.

Looks like the rear trailing arm bushing sleeve rotates in the bushing, so tightening it with a loaded suspension shouldn't be necessary. If the sleeve is vulcanized to the bushing, then yes you should.

so the front trl. arm that has the joint and spacer on top with the 6" bolt is 66lb ft. and the 2 bolts i took off to lower the cradle are 195 lb ft ?:hmm: just want to be sure b/4 putting her back. thanks

 

[soflarick]

The GM specs I found said 66 lb ft for the front trailing arm, the bolt and nut that go with the spacer. Tighten the nut, not the bolt, to get the proper torque on the fastener.

 

[MAPerformance]

What does it take to remove the factory bushing at the knuckle?

I used a screwdriver and penetrating lubricant. Then put a screwdriver through the edge of the bushing and hammered it through to the other side and then started twisting.

Another method is to burn the bushing out, or press the bushing out with a c-clamp and a small piece of tubing just bigger than the center sleeve.

I found the screwdriver method to be the easiest, took me about 2-3 minutes to get each one out.

 

[RADARB8]

The GM specs I found said 66 lb ft for the front trailing arm, the bolt and nut that go with the spacer. Tighten the nut, not the bolt, to get the proper torque on the fastener.

thanks............and about the factory bushing, man that was a bear to get out....There has to be a better way, but i used a small drill bit being careful not to gouge the alum. barrel and made several holes[ in the ruber] and sprayed about a pint of WD-40 lol.....then nocked it out with a large punch and short arm heavy hammer. It worked.....I still have the drivers side to do, maybe someone has better way to make this easier.:alchi:

 

[MAPerformance]

The way I described above was pretty easy, screwdriver in one side. Pry it a little and spray penetrating fluid inside the hole that appears when you pry it. Spin it in a half moon direction, then repeat for the other side. Get it all lubed up, then put a screwdriver in the sleeve in the middle and pry it all the way to one side and use another screwdriver to coax it out the other side.

 

[RADARB8]

The way I described above was pretty easy, screwdriver in one side. Pry it a little and spray penetrating fluid inside the hole that appears when you pry it. Spin it in a half moon direction, then repeat for the other side. Get it all lubed up, then put a screwdriver in the sleeve in the middle and pry it all the way to one side and use another screwdriver to coax it out the other side.

sounds good!

 

[lollygagger8]

Why do you have to lower the cradle and take the rotor off? Is it because they are so thick or something?

When I've taken my stock and bmr trailing arms on and off I just used a gear wrench (on bolthead side for lower end) and got em on/off just fine w/o removing any of that shit.

 

[MAPerformance]

I never said lowering the cradle was to remove the rotor? Where did I say that at? It is to remove the front trailing arm bolt because the bolt is too long to come out the top if the cradle is not lowered in the front.

I am also curious how you got the rear-most trailing arm bolt out without hitting the rotor? They are installed that way above in the picture from the factory. Which is dumb in my opinion.

 

[Matt05V]

I didn't have to remove the rotor or anything when I did my BMR's either:hmm:

 

[MAPerformance]

I'm not sure how you guys got the most forward bolt out then? Its over 6 inches long and there is only 3 inches of space above the sub frame in the front. Unless your guy's car has been working on previously the front bolt goes in from the top and the nut goes on the bottom. If it was going up from the bottom the the nut on top, I'm willing to bet money you have a 10mm circle indent on the body of your car above that bolt.

If your front bolt for the trailing arm is going in from the top and the nut is on the bottom like the picture below, you will need to undo the cradle bolts.

And if your rear-most trailing arm bolt that goes through the hub is going in from the outside like the picture below, you will need to remove the rotor as the bolt is too long to pull out with the rotor in the way.

It's factory flaw, not our product design. That would be impossible as the mounting points are the same.

I'm willing to bet with how much the dealer works on these cars in the ass-end that some peoples bolt configurations are different than others.

 

[soflarick]

Perhaps the front bolt went from the top down so the nut can be torqued, not the bolt, as well as lowering the chance the bolt would come out if the nut fails. Maybe similar reason for the knuckle side bolt, i.e. if the nut falls off, the bolt backs out to the point it touches the rotor and then you hear it.

 

[jerrycecco]

ok, I assume a few V owners have these trailing arms installed.
what's the handling like? (cornering improvements?)
any noise?

[email protected]

 

[CTS-Voodoo]

ok, I assume a few V owners have these trailing arms installed.
what's the handling like? (cornering improvements?)
any noise?

[email protected]

Youll find with the trailing arms the rear end can hold larger tires, which will improve your traction. Otherwise they really dont offer handing improvements. Increase the diameter of the rear toe rods while you're in there and you'll see a DRAMATIC increase in rear end acceleration stability, especially in the turns! The stock rear rod is about 1/2inch thick and isnt really built to handle 400 horses. I beefed mine up to 1.5 .120wall DOM and I routinely see .95-.97 before the rear tires even start to chirp. Considering thats max lateral grip for our vehicles stock... :thumbsup:

 

[jerrycecco]

Youll find with the trailing arms the rear end can hold larger tires, which will improve your traction. Otherwise they really dont offer handing improvements. Increase the diameter of the rear toe rods while you're in there and you'll see a DRAMATIC increase in rear end acceleration stability, especially in the turns! The stock rear rod is about 1/2inch thick and isnt really built to handle 400 horses. I beefed mine up to 1.5 .120wall DOM and I routinely see .95-.97 before the rear tires even start to chirp. Considering thats max lateral grip for our vehicles stock... :thumbsup:

CTS-Voodoo,
thanks for posting. I'm NOT planning to increase tire width in the rear.
so changing the rear tie rods will make a difference in handling on stock 245 size tires? interesting.... I'm looking to improved hanlding at the track using low $ budget....this MAY BE what I'm looking for..

where did you get yours OR did you build yours?

[email protected]