My understanding is that we lift on the pinch welds, something like the QJ Pinch Weld Pucks. That is a bit disturbing that they don't know if they would work. With the plastic covers off, it looked like there is plenty of width and length QJ Pinch Weld Pucks. Possibly there some concern about the width of the channel or the depth of the channel for the pinch weld? Maybe the height is a possible issue to clear the side trim. They say you can stack with the supplied robber pads, but I suppose a single lift pad would be more desirable.

I don't claim to know any of this first hand, but by my first look at the numbers seemed to indicate that a 7000TL is fine by their own selection chart. Beyond cost, the issue might be fitting other vehicles if either the TL or the TLX would work. Maybe there is some specific reason why they list the TLX for LYRIQ?

FWIW, I came across these bolt on lift pads, but not sure I would go in that in direction, probably way overkill. They don't advertise anything for LYRIQ, and so far have not answered an inquiry.

The other system I have been considering is the MAX JAX Portable 2 Post Car Lift. Not sure either will ever happen, it always gets way too complicated and pricey, when my high end Daytona jack still gets the job done.

 

There may well be holes for specialized pucks, but the workshop manual seems to call for the pinch welds for standard service. Even though not shown in the illustrations, I suspect most shops would use some kind of a jack pad with a channel. There are some holes shown too, so maybe there are some specialized LYRIQ pucks? (or, the holes might be some vestige of the production line connection to the chassis)
Some pictures from the manual:

 

With the plastic covers removed I tested the QJ Pinch Blocks (shown above by Luxiondrive) and they fit my Lyriq's lift points very well. And these pinch blocks can be turned either way although positioning them length-wise would probably spread out the load better. These pinch blocks leave about 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch clearance. I'm not sure whether these pinch block compress at all so just to be on the safe side I'm planning on using a 2nd rubber block under the pinch block so I'll have a few inches of clearance.

S

 

Got an email that the 7000TL is back in stock at Home Depot this morning. Seems like one of the best prices so far, so I guess I'll give it a try. Does anyone see any problems / mistakes with the way I applied our LYRIQ dimension numbers to the product selection guide? I ask because of the prior post that said a QJ rep suggested the TLX for LYRIQ which would also work, but I believe is not required.

The HD sale is $1559.00 ($1925.00 Save $366.00 (19%)), plus if you get the active or veteran mil discount, another $164.90, but then add back state tax, for me a total $1,613.96 which includes the extra pinch blocks and free delivery. HD might have a lot of them, because before it was order 2 max, now it is order 5 max.

 

So I went there and tried it with a floor jack. Here what I found.

1. It does have standard pinch weld jack points just like any other vehicle.

2. You don't need any special tool or puck to fit there, a puck I bought for my mother in laws corolla fits just fine (sort of)
3. You can lift it with a jack

4. Whether you should or should not is not officially confirmed. I'll ask my dealer service guys next week when I pick up my tires. I know allstate says you shouldn't but nothing official I can find so far from cadillac (the thing about the battery flex).

Hopefully this clears up some confusion for people wondering about floor jacks. I think a quick lift can easily lift it with no issues.

I didn't jack it up enough to get the tires off the ground but just enough to figure out it is liftable from the jack points from a floor jack.

 

There has been some discussion as to whether the Lyriq's battery compartment frame will flex and possibly cause damage to the batter pack if the vehicle is lifted at 1 of its 4 lift points, rather than lifting at all 4 lift points at the same time. I'm curious if anyone has confirmed this from a Cadillac service department?

S

 

Read the very bottom of the post above yours.

 

Hi Nebula. Yes, I did. It's interesting Allstate says not to jack at one lift point. This might indicate insurance was involved with a claim, but not enough information to determine the details. I'd like to hear Cadillac's take on lifting at one lift point.
S

 

From what I've heard from a GM tech you have to raise one side at a time not just a corner. Far as I'm concerned it's more trouble than it's worth.

 

From what I've heard from a GM tech you have to raise one side at a time not just a corner.

Considering the bottom of the Lyriq is mostly a large framed battery bank, this makes sense. Although when driving in certain remote areas where carrying a spare tire would be beneficial, having two scissor jacks onboard to lift one side of the vehicle shouldn't be a big deal. That sure would beat pushing the OnStar button, then waiting for... who knows how long.

S

 

It's a precaution from unwanted flexing, though the battery shell is supposed to be very strong... wonder if it's something about how it's connected to the body they don't want to stress.

 

The Lyriq has a wheel base of 122" so the QJ 7000TLX should fit easily between the tires. Perhaps QJ recommended the longer TLX because it distributes the load better than the shorter TL model.

B

 

The Lyriq has a wheel base of 122" so the QJ 7000TLX should fit easily between the tires. Perhaps QJ recommended the longer TLX because it distributes the load better than the shorter TL model.

B

The lift points are fixed at 48-50 inches, so the load would be distributed differently on the floor. The distance between the wheel wells is about 86", so the TLX would reach within 3" of the wheel well at each end. While the TL would give an extra size inches distance from the end of the lift to the wheel well. That's a nice extra working distance, and as both lifts are specified for 7000 lbs, either would work. The frame of the lift is at the end of it, so its a real difference in working distance behind the wheel. I am not sure this is a big deal... I have those accessory rocker lights in the rocker near the front wheel and they are about six inches long.
It looks like the TLX is now out of stock at HomeDepot, but the TL is still available at the sale price.
I ordered TL and some pinch weld adapters. Seems fine to me, and returnable to HomeDepot if there is a hitch.

 

Using the QJ sizing chart, I get: Lift Point Spread (Min/Max): min 42" max 56" (The actual usable working area each pocket is probably more like. 6 to 6 1/2" than 7")
Measure the Tire Spread: spread at 3" above ground: 99"
Unless there is something we are missing that forces LYRIQ into the TLX, probably most important is the sizing for any other vehicles that you have, or might acquire in the next years. Otherwise, as best as I can tell from their own sizing chart, either TL or TLX should be okay for LYRIQ.

The HD price for the 7000TL seems to be the best around just now, but I'm guessing it is not block buster blow-out price because they showed 61 units yesterday, and 53 this afternoon. Often the stock numbers are incorrect, but I bet the change is accurate. Only about 8 units sold in one day nationwide, so there does not seem to be a rush to buy these. One of those was my purchase, so I'll see mid to late week how a 7000TL does with LYRIQ. Just bought three quarts of Valvoline Dex/Merc $8.99 and a roll of Permatex thread tape $5.49 at my local AutoZone store.

Lift Point Spread (Min/Max): min 42" max 56"; Measure the Tire Spread: spread at 3" above ground: 99". HD price on July 14, 2024:

 

I agree. I am going to see how the TL works out on my Lyriq, and check to see if my son's cars would fit too.

 

Well, I've now watched way too many YouTube videos and read most of the manual. There are a number of detailed steps in the setup, so this is project where you need to closely follow the manual. The worst YouTube video dropped his car when he released only one side and lowered without noticing the other side was still locked in the raised position. Both he and the car survived, but clearly paying attention is a must. Except for as guided by the manual during initial bleeding, another one is to not raise QJ with no car on the jack. You can use them side ways in some situations which might come in handy. If you use the liquid thread seal during initial setup, you are down for 24 hours to let it cure. For those comfortable with teflon tape, that lets you use QJ right away (lots of cautions about how to apply the tape in the manual and a QJ video). Lastly, you can get some additional height with pads like the optional QJ truck lift pads, but there must be room for some QJ extension below the vehicle or it will not be able to lift it. Finally, QJ says you must use an additional set of jacks under the vehicle to work there, many YouTubers don't seem to do that. I think I would, but as noted above, there is little reason for most jobs be working directly under LYRIQ. Most, if not all of the reviews are very positive, noting that the manufacturer Bendpack also makes a full line of post lifts. Also, QJ says you can use it to a 3 degree slope on a driveway (but, don't leave it out in the rain). As best as I can measure, the top of my driveway is just under 2 degrees, so I should be okay for driveway use too.

 

Well, I've now watched way too many YouTube videos and read most of the manual. There are a number of detailed steps in the setup, so this is project where you need to closely follow the manual. The worst YouTube video dropped his car when he released only one side and lowered without noticing the other side was still locked in the raised position. Both he and the car survived, but clearly paying attention is a must. Except for as guided by the manual during initial bleeding, another one is to not raise QJ with no car on the jack. You can used them side ways in some situations which might come in handy. If you use the liquid thread seal during initial setup, you are down for 24 hours to let it cure, so for those comfortable with teflon tape, that lets you use it right away (lots of cautions about how to apply the tape in the manual and a QJ video). Lastly, you can get some additional height with pads like the optional QJ lift pads, but there must be some extension below the vehicle or it will not be able to lift it. Finally, QJ says you must use an additional set of jacks under the vehicle to work there, many YouTubers don't seem to do that. I think I would, but as noted above, there is little reason for most jobs be working directly under LYRIQ.

Thanks for this useful summary. I have a few remaining questions:

1. Where would you put additional jacks to work under the Lyriq? Surely, the four jack points are already in use?
2. How would you use them sideways? Do you mean use the additional height pads sideways? This is not clear to me.
3. What do you mean by "some extension below the vehicle"?
4. I saw the video when one side dropped. Pretty scary. A good warning video.

 

Almost forgot, they want the side with the traveling locks to always be on the outside, but also one specific end of each jack towards the "heavy side" front or back. The examples are engine in the front, or mid or rear engine. Does LYRIQ have a heavier end, front or rear? AWD, RWD? A number of YouTube videos ignore that one too.

 

I think it's near 50/50.

 

Everywhere I've checked online says 50/50 weight distribution.

 

I heard a delivery truck door, but did not look. Wow! all of the boxes were neatly stacked in my garage next to LYRIQ, the garage door was already open. First glance, there are some dents in the boxes, hopefully no damage. That was fast delivery, originally estimated for Wednesday.

Okay, mostly unpacked. It was packed well with 1/8" plywood top and bottom of the lifts, and lots of Styrofoam. Some packing material was crushed or cracked, but so far looks like it did its job of protecting the contents. There is some leaked fluid at the pump, likely residual from testing. Probably okay, will know soon enough. The 7000TL lifting pad pockets look fine, if not ideal for 48". Pics of both end pockets with the slotted puck, which might need another puck underneath, small or large, both supplied with interlocking holes and dimples.

All went well, but took some time working carefully in the hot garage (teflon taping done in the cool basement workshop). Just doing bleeding, seems fine, no problem lowering as was noted in several videos. Pretty tired now, so the maiden lift will be tomorrow if all goes well. The pinch weld pad is definitely going to need one of the other supplied pads below each one. Fortunately, they tie together a little like lego blocks.

 

From the service manual

 

Quick Jack Lift! Well, I'm glad that snow tire/wheel change over is Nov/Dec or March/April in the cooler weather. By the time all was setup, I was soaking wet. Moving the jack assemblies around on the wheels at one end was not a problem. I was on the driveway at a 1.8 degree incline rear of the LYRIQ down grade. I started with the lift pads centered in the pockets, and the heavy side of the jack assemblies pointed to the front end. As soon as I started lifting the front came off quickly, but the back was lagging. I changed sides (the side with the locking mechanism has to be facing out) and rotated the jack assemblies for the heavy side rear and moved the pads slightly forward in the pockets to move the jack assemblies rearward. There was still another inch or more to move the pads in the pockets. This time, LYRIQ (AWD) lifted much more evenly, still a bit more lag rear, but nothing worrisome. The wood could be better centered. Took it up to the first notch used for tire, wheel, wheel well work, no problem. Then lowered it a bit to lock into the first stop. There was no sense of straining anything, the lift process was smooth and quiet. The back is heavier on the incline. I'm thinking LYRIQ is also a bit heavier in the rear, cg a bit aft.

This is going to be so much easier than doing one wheel at a time years past! Wish I had got one of these six or seven years ago when I started changing over to snow tires on a spare set of rims every year. No idea what I'm doing for LYRIQ snow tire wheels yet. Lately, I buy the built and balanced combination from TireRack, but don't especially see wheels at TireRack that call out to me yet. Or, maybe a set of 20s from someone who changes to custom right away, not sure yet. Probably Michelin X-ice, my favorite, a very soft quiet ride.

I still do not think that you need a TLX. The TLX length could be a bit easier to move around towards the center of gravity. However, check the ranges against anything you might want to lift on the shorter side to be sure that any other vehicle you might want to lift is not too short for the TLX, where the 7000TL would work.

 

Thanks Luxiondrive for this very useful description. Waiting with baited breath for my 7000TL.

 

Just a couple of quick after notes. After raising the price back up to retail, tonight July 16, 2024, Home Depot is down to $1,475, down from the previous sale price of $1,559. If by chance you bought a 7000TL from HD in the last couple of days, call customer service. They will do a small refund. Of course if you bought at retail, that's a big refund.

There are a bunch of YouTube videos on how to add small wheels which might make sense if you plan to leave QJ on the floor. Tearing down my setup this afternoon, I set them one at a time on a furniture dolly, which worked surprisingly well. Also, at least after the first lift, there was virtually no compression of the pinch weld block, just a small mark at the bottom of the channel. The pinch weld block is not high enough, so I used it on top of the supplied small hard rubber block.

 

Just a couple of quick after notes. After raising the price back up to retail, tonight July 16, 2024, Home Depot is down to $1,475, down from the previous sale price of $1,559. If by chance you bought a 7000TL from HD in the last couple of days, call customer service. They will do a small refund. Of course if you bought at retail, that's a big refund.

There are a bunch of YouTube videos on how to add small wheels which might make sense if you plan to leave QJ on the floor. Tearing down my setup this afternoon, I set them one at a time on a furniture dolly, which worked surprisingly well. Also, at least after the first lift, there was virtually no compression of the pinch weld block, just a small mark at the bottom of the channel. The pinch weld block is not high enough, so I used it on top of the supplied small hard rubber block.
View attachment 662934

I assume you mean to move the QJ around on the floor by using the furniture dolly? I made my own furniture dolly for another purpose with 2x4s, some strong wheels from HD, and some nice big lag bolts. I might tailor make either a pair, or one, to mount the QJ units, which must be heavy to necessitate the use of a dolly. I will see if I can find the "small wheels" vids. My QJ is arriving tomorrow.
HomeDepot and Lowes drive me nuts with their price changes. I have seen many examples of the type of behavior in the past, but they are competing with online,and doing a reasonable job of it too.

 

You can buy hockey pucks and cut groves in it for lift pads. Thats what I did

 

I received my QJ 7000TLX today. It was actually my 2nd QJ 7000LTX. I bought my first one 7 or 8 years ago. It was interesting to compare my old one, to my new one. The newer model is a few inches longer which allows a few more inches of lifting height (I think I read an additional 3.5"). My old model came with plastic plugs inserted into all the tubular steel pieces; the new model had no plugs (minor issue). My old model came with a very sturdy pump stand and very heavy pump assembly. The new one came with a much lighter pump assembly and no support stand, just a 3 rubber feet attached under to the bottom of the pump. Obviously some cost cutting measures have taken place since my first QJ was built. My older 7000TLX still works fine. I haven't had a chance to try the new QJ yet but it probably will work fine too, although when I was unpacking the new pump assembly I noticed certain parts of the assembly had a coating of hydraulic oil on them, so I'll be checking the assembly for leaks, a cracked reservor, or loose fittings during assembly. The actual lifting mechanisms and hydraulic lift cylinders look to the same on both the old and new models.

Why two 7000TLX's? To lift two vehicles a couple of extra feet during potential flood events.

S

 

No sympathy required

• I have now taken delivery of my 7000 TL, and I am taking it slowly with the install. My first surprise was something I should have caught up front, and that is what QuickJack calls "required" clearances around the vehicle.
• These clearances are measured from the ends of the QujickJack units not from the sides and ends of the car. It turns out the 24ft by 12 ft space for my Lyriq in a 2 1/2 car garage, is only just right to meet the clearance to within in an inch or two in the 24 fit direction. Its quite a tight squeeze. On the sides QJ recommends six foot on either side. I only have three foot to the garage wall on one side, and plenty of space towards the other side of the 2 1/2 car garage. After a phone call to QJ I determined that the 6ft requirement is just so you have space to walk around the car, so 3 ft is just fine.
• The side to side and end to end clearances measured relative to the jack's theselves put the nose of my Lyriq only 1 foot from the back wall, which should not be a problem as the Lyriq will move in the opposite direction towards the garage door when lifted.
• However, I nearly died when I measured the roof clearance, which is supposed to be 3 ft above the "raised" car. Bummer. I only have 34 inches to the ceiling as the car stands on its tires. Worse... my door opener box takes 9 1/4 inches off that 34 inches. So, now I have about 24.75 inches into which to raise the car. Visions of sending these really heavy things back! So:
• The QJ raises the car 21 1/4 inches with pinch weld blocks. For this I have to position the lyriq so the opener box is exacly over the top of the tailgate where the car is lowest. This turns out to also satisfy the clearance requirements. If I were to position the car so the box is positioned over the middle of the roof, I loose 2" of clearance because the roof slopes up 2" from the tailgate.
• So, in my conversation with the nice lady at QJ, she was not concerned about safety issues per se relative to the ceiling other than the car does not hit anything while being raised. She mentioned someone's open trunk lid was trapped during such a situation!! Yuck!
• So, I am going to proceed and try to lift the car, but luckily the first lock point on the QJ lifts the car only partially to its full height. So I can lift it to there safely, and then measure again to make sure that the garage opener box does not play silly billy with my Lyriq's roof. If things are really bad, I can just work at the lower height.
• I require no sympathy BTW. I should have checked the manual in detail before my purchase.. geezz.
• Finally, which is good news, and mentioned by others, its no problem to operate the QJ outdoors on firm ground as long as you don't let bad weather impact it. Such as leaving it out for an extended time with the car jacked up and so on. My driveway is solid concrete pavers, so no problem there. My slopes are all less than the required so that is no problem either.
• Hopefully, I can install and lift now after thinking through all that. Don't laugh.

 

No sympathy required

• I have now taken delivery of my 7000 TL, and I am taking it slowly with the install. My first surprise was something I should have caught up front, and that is what QuickJack calls "required" clearances around the vehicle.
• T....
• Hopefully, I can install and lift now after thinking through ....

I keep watching YouTube videos about the QuickJack, now particularly looking out for clearances around the various vehicles for which they are used. I saw several where the clearances were virtually nil. One guy was rushing back and forth with his car pressed almost right against the rear wall of the garage, while its nose was moving closer and closer to his garage door during the lift. It ended up with it pressed within 2" of his door. I have seen many with side clearances around the 2-3 ft range.

Same with the ceiling clearances, as many had the roof of their vehicle pretty close to their door opener. So, i am a little less concerned now about clearances, although I think I will lift the car outside, measure it accurately while it is lifted and recheck against my ceiling clearance inside.

I saw one more vid of someone's car that crashed down to the floor. This one had been on the QJ for a few days, and he had the wheels off, and was working on brakes and shocks. He had just taken off a front shock, and then he heard creaking, and before long he was rushing out of the garage as the car crashed into the concrete floor. He finished the vid convinced has car was damaged beyond repair. You could see disks crushed into the concrete, and the car sitting on its oil pan.

 

@rgmichel You could replace your ceiling mounted door opener with a wall mounted one.

 

Good idea. I like it, and I am a bit fed up of my old clanker. Its had its day I think. Another project. Do I do it before I test the QJ or after? Ha..

 

• So, now I have put a laser across the roof of my Lyriq and found that its too risky to raise the Lyriq on the QuickJack with its roof under the door opener, as its an inch or two worse than I thought previously measuring with a tape measure.
• However, I can turn the car around and raise it with the hood under the door opener, so facing the garage door and clearly with plenty of clearance. It will move 12-15" forward when raised, due to the nature of the QJ, which will locate the door opener in a position above and half-way up the front glass, but still in a good situation with about a foot to spare. Clearly the hood would not be up, but it need not be if working under the car.
• So, it looks like I might get away with using the QJ in my garage, but I would have to start with its rear end close to the back wall. This might be tough because my first job is at the rear end to work on the hitch, but it looks feasible so far.
• I have assembled everything and about to bleed the hydraulics ready for the first lift.

 

I found the QJ video on bleeding the hydraulic lines helpful. I don't think the paper manual talks about raising one side of each jack for bleeding: The Official QuickJack Setup Tutorial Part 4 at 4:00

The few fail - crashed videos seem to mostly be from one side not being properly locked. It is surprising how relatively small the locking mechanism is, but that is it, the end of the lock arm and lock nub. Once raised and locked, QJ is only supported by the mechanical locking bars at the stops. QJ has a video where they overload the jacks, so it would seem that the stops are well enough engineered. Hopefully the QJ QA program catches safety related manufacturing defects, but I would still visually inspect both locking stops for any obvious manufacturing defects.

It is possible that one or more of the failed videos did not follow the lock instructions:

After both sides click on passing the stop, it still takes an affirmative down press to lock both sides (step 14. above). Is there a link for the failed video with the crushed disks?

 

I found the QJ video on bleeding the hydraulic lines helpful. I don't think the paper manual talks about raising one side of each jack for bleeding: The Official QuickJack Setup Tutorial Part 4 at 4:00

The few fail - crashed videos seem to mostly be from one side not being properly locked. It is surprising how relatively small the locking mechanism is, but that is it, the end of the lock arm and lock nub. Once raised and locked, QJ is only supported by the mechanical locking bars at the stops. QJ has a video where they overload the jacks, so it would seem that the stops are well enough engineered. Hopefully the QJ QA program catches safety related manufacturing defects, but I would still visually inspect both locking stops for any obvious manufacturing defects.

It is possible that one or more of the failed videos did not follow the lock instructions:
View attachment 663601
After both side click on passing the stop, it still takes an affirmative down press to lock both sides (step 14. above). Is there a link for the failed video with the crushed disks?

No question that you need to be sure to have the lock rods in the right position when operating the QJ. I am 99% certain this is what undid these people who had a disaster.
The QJ is a pure mechanical device. It does not have modern technology to give the user a warning that the lock rods are not correctly oriented. QJ needs to be updated to add the technology so it can communicate fault situations. People will make mistakes. Of course adding sensors and bluetooth and all that stuff is costly, but its the way of things these day to make things fail-safe.