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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 1984 Eldorado 4.1. The oil pressure switch was not working so I installed a new one which works fine. When I apply the brakes and am almost at a complete stop The "Stop Engine Low Oil Pressure" light comes on. It then gradually dims and then goes out. ( a few seconds total)

The light never comes on when at idle or while driving. I have checked the level and it is fine.

I'm afraid this may be a warning of something to come. Help!!!!! Please!

84ELDO
 

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i'm having the same kinda probs in my '87 4.1.. put my screen name under the search function and replies to my threads may help.. good luck!
 

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1926 Model T street rod, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 1999 Corvette.
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My First Thought When I Read Your Post Is The Idle Is Too Low. I Would Verify That The Throttle Position Sensor And Idle Control Motor Are Set To Spec. Just As You Come To A Stop The Idle Motor Should Extend And Control The Idle. If Its Late (misadjusted) The Oil Light Might Come On And Flicker. I Still Think Its A Good Idea To Verify Oil Pressure With A Gauge, Puts Your Mind At Ease, Right? Hope This Helps, Bill. ALSO, OIL PRESSURE LIGHTS COMING ON RARELY HAVE TO DO WITH OIL LEVEL, THE LIGHT READS PRESSURE, NOT LEVEL.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks,
I will get the oil pressure checked. I cleaned the Throttle Body and drove it again. Now I only see the light when I go from park to reverse or drive for a few seconds. I also began to hear a ticking noise after driving it a while. When I park and leave it at idle the ticking noise gradually decreases. Some one suggested it could be the oil pump.

84ELDO
:confused:
 

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1968 Cadillac Sedan deVille, 1994 Chevrolet G20
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Definitely agree on the oil pump. Its probably either clogged, or the relief spring is broken/weak. Both of these are no big deal to fix aside from the oil pan having to come off. I would NOT drive the car too much as that ticking is telling you that it does not have enough oil pressure to keep the valve train lubricated above idle.
 

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1991 Cadillac Brougham D'Elegance 5.7 Litre, 1994 DeVille
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I agree- DON'T START IT ANYMORE!! Low oil pressure is bad. You can end up wrecking the bearings and more damage if it hasen't already happened.
 

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1926 Model T street rod, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 1999 Corvette.
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one other cause worth mentioning is that the early 4100's had small return holes in the cyl. heads. oil would be trapped in the rocker arm area and wouldn't return to the pan quickly enough. caused by sludge build up in the rocker arm area. if you find the oil overfilled when checking the level cold, i would suspect slow drain back. this would cause oil lights to come on as you would understand because low oil in the pan after runnning awhile. same thing would happen in early 265 chevys for the same reason. would cause lifter tick until the oil drained back. hope this helps, Bill.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input gentlemen. With this being a front wheel drive car looks like I got a lot of work just to get the oil pan off.

84ELDO
 

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Discussion Starter #10
carnut said:
one other cause worth mentioning is that the early 4100's had small return holes in the cyl. heads. oil would be trapped in the rocker arm area and wouldn't return to the pan quickly enough. caused by sludge build up in the rocker arm area. if you find the oil overfilled when checking the level cold, i would suspect slow drain back. this would cause oil lights to come on as you would understand because low oil in the pan after runnning awhile. same thing would happen in early 265 chevys for the same reason. would cause lifter tick until the oil drained back. hope this helps, Bill.
Hey Bill,
I went out this morning and checked my oil level two or three times cold. It does show the oil overfilled. What can be done to help correct the situation you described?

I still will get my oil pressure etc. checked anyway.

84ELDO
 

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is there a thread that shows step by step ways to replace the oil pump? my 87 deville 4.1 v8 is doing the same things.. slight ticking and oil pressure light when in gear at a stop.. if i start the car and drive it around, it'll run for a few mins and then the service now light will come on and then the red stop engine light will come on and if i come to a stop, the car will die.. it will then be hard to get the car started till the car has cooled off. I'm suspecting oil pump as well.. dam.. only 70k original miles too!
 

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Your oil pump is in the oil pan. You have to figure out how to get the pan off, then replacement is pretty straightfoward. There is one bolt and one nut holding it on. When you take it off, there is an O-ring sealing the output tube to the engine. Do NOT lose it. If it looks questionable, get a new one. the pressure relief valve is located on the pump, so a pump rebuild kit should take care of everything.
 

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cool..thanks for the tips! since my caddy only runs for a few mins before dying, it's gotta be either the oil pump or fuel pump..maybe even plugs but i dont think its the plugs.. I'll start the car and drive for a few mins..the car idles pretty rough in gear and then the oil light will come on and then service engine now and then stop engine light..it will hesitate to start after all the lights come on but after a couple hrs, it'll start back up but only run for a few mins before dying.. arrg.. may have to replace both the pumps..oil pump sounds easier than the fuel pump though.. hopefully the oil pan bolts come out easily..hmmm..wonder how messy it will get!
 

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Well at the very least, there well oiled...... It's not TOO messy if the car has been sitting for awhile and you drained the oil first. I still would put cardboard down if it was my driveway.
 

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Bobby C 01TA said:
cool..thanks for the tips! since my caddy only runs for a few mins before dying, it's gotta be either the oil pump or fuel pump..maybe even plugs but i dont think its the plugs.. I'll start the car and drive for a few mins..the car idles pretty rough in gear and then the oil light will come on and then service engine now and then stop engine light..it will hesitate to start after all the lights come on but after a couple hrs, it'll start back up but only run for a few mins before dying.. arrg.. may have to replace both the pumps..oil pump sounds easier than the fuel pump though.. hopefully the oil pan bolts come out easily..hmmm..wonder how messy it will get!
Before you spend any time on that I'd actually get someone to look at it to see what the problem really is. In your other thread it sounded like you were sure it was the fuel pump. Now you're thinking it's the oil pump again. For all you know it could even be a bad sensor or a loose wire or something causing everything :confused:
 

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brougham said:
Before you spend any time on that I'd actually get someone to look at it to see what the problem really is. In your other thread it sounded like you were sure it was the fuel pump. Now you're thinking it's the oil pump again. For all you know it could even be a bad sensor or a loose wire or something causing everything :confused:
u are right B.. i had my mechanic check it and he said the motor is bad and its missing and its going to cost alot to fix..theres been a couple other instances where he said this and that on the caddy and i fixed it myself.. He doesnt know the caddy well.. he is good at imports but I think his judgements are misleading when it comes to the caddy.. I will see if I can have another mechanic look at it.. I dont really want to spend too much money on it since its hardly worth much etc. I would like to get it running "good" though. No way I am taking it to the dealer.. they will charge me more to look at it than what the car is worth LOL..btw i am gonna try the plugs on the caddy.. i see 5.. 4 up front and one kinda on the side.. where are the other 3 plugs? and are they just the ones where u pull the boot and the plug needs to be twisted off and replaced? The plugs have Never been changed on the caddy.. of course it only has 70k miles but still.. needs some new spark!
 

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Hmmm, well i found the other plugs.. 4 in the front, 4 in the back.. the back ones dont look too fun but dont look too hard to replace either.. i am going to start the plugs, then if that doesnt work, the oil pump, if that fails, fuel pump :annoyed: :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I took off both valve covers for an inspection. I noticed that the passenger side had oil (kind of deep) laying arround so I cleaned out the two drain holes as best as i could.

When I pulled off the driverside valve cover There was no residual oil laying around but the rocker arms had some oil. This is the side where I hear the valve train noise. It does not happen while cold and starting. it happens after warmup and I cut the engine off and restart it. Then it is noticable.

I am about to tackle the oil pump. Maybe it is bad or clogged and not giving even distribution. Does the above scenerio make any sense to the Vets?
 

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If It Were My Car I Would Pour Oil On The Side That Was Full Of Oil And See That It Drains Back Quickly. If Thats True, I Would Reinstall Both Valve Covers And Have The Oil Pressure Checked With A Manual Gauge. Don't Replace The Oil Pump Unless Verified That Its Out Of Spec. Replacing Parts Without Proper Diagnosis Is A Waste Of Time And Money! I've Seen The Gear On The Distributor Wear Prematurely And Cause Driveability And Oil Pressure Problems. Please Have Someone Verify Oil Pressure Before Jumping In To Ck/replace Oil Pump. Good Luck , Bill. Have A Merry Christmas.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Any one know how long it should take for oil to come out of the push rods onece the car is started? I watcheed for 5 min. and saw no oil come through any of the push rods on the drivers side. HT4100 engine)

Also I had oil on the threads of my sparkplugs the electrodes were black but dry.
 
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