I know it looks intimidating with all those codes, first off, You need to see what is current and what is history, Current is what is happening now, History could be just 1 drive cycle ago. Someone has disconnected the battery and that is why some of those codes are there, try clearing all codes from all modules and see which ones come back. The way that OBd2 codes are arranged, the lower codes are the more important ones, ie O2 sensors, these can affect other areas so, its important to address these first. Good luck with it and don't worry, just break it down one at a time and it will all come together
Looked up codes but still confused
Hey everyone! I appologize now if this is in the wrong section. Let me start by saying this web site is the bomb! You guys saved me alot of money that I didn't have to spend in the first place. I appreciate you guys (and gals) so much. When things get better for me, I will definately send in a donation. Now down to the nitty gritty... I learned how to pull codes then looked them up with the link provided in one of the forums. The problem is, a few of them are like french to me. Here they are:
OBDII Codes for 1997 Cadillac Eldorado N* 4.6 v8
P0139-Heated o2 sensor (HO2S) slow response bank1 sensor2
P0141-Heated o2 sensor-heater performance bank1 sensor2
P0300-Engine misfire detected
P0603-Control module longterm memory reset
P1153-Heated o2 sensor- insufficient switching bank2 sensor1
P1611-Loss of CVRTD serial data
P1652-Powertrain induced chassis pitch output circuit
B1155-SDM calibration mismatch
B1159-Loss of serial data-key not received
B1552-Keep alive memory (KAM) error
B1558-BCM EPROM checksum error
B1982-Device power circuit high
B1983-Device power circuit low
B2471-Interior lamp fault
C1255-EBCM internal malfunction
I know its alot, but I would really appreciate if someone could take the time to clearify these codes for me. Most of them are history codes but I would still like to know what I need to do or where I need to check. Even if it's something that you would suggest me to take to the shop, if you could still let me know what things I can do (if at all possible). Please forgive my ignorance in this matter as some of these are pretty self explanatory, I just need some expert advice. Thanks again all...
OBDII Codes for 1997 Cadillac Eldorado N* 4.6 v8
P0139-Heated o2 sensor (HO2S) slow response bank1 sensor2
P0141-Heated o2 sensor-heater performance bank1 sensor2
P0300-Engine misfire detected
P0603-Control module longterm memory reset
P1153-Heated o2 sensor- insufficient switching bank2 sensor1
P1611-Loss of CVRTD serial data
P1652-Powertrain induced chassis pitch output circuit
B1155-SDM calibration mismatch
B1159-Loss of serial data-key not received
B1552-Keep alive memory (KAM) error
B1558-BCM EPROM checksum error
B1982-Device power circuit high
B1983-Device power circuit low
B2471-Interior lamp fault
C1255-EBCM internal malfunction
I know its alot, but I would really appreciate if someone could take the time to clearify these codes for me. Most of them are history codes but I would still like to know what I need to do or where I need to check. Even if it's something that you would suggest me to take to the shop, if you could still let me know what things I can do (if at all possible). Please forgive my ignorance in this matter as some of these are pretty self explanatory, I just need some expert advice. Thanks again all...
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Would also be lookin into maybe replacing the o2 sensors.
Does appear to be an issue there.
But like shack said...start from scratch.
Does appear to be an issue there.
But like shack said...start from scratch.
I agree. Clear 'em and deal with the ones that return.
P0139 P1652 B1155 B1159 & B2471 were all current. I reset all codes and the ones that came back were B1155 & B1159. I'm not sure which ones will come back if I start or drive the car tho. I have a feeling that B1155 & B1159 are airbag related because my service airbag message is displayed but I know I don't have an airbag issue. It showed up when the original cluster was replaced with a used one. It goes away when these codes are cleared. Any suggestions?
You can find the codes here. "P"codes are PCM and "B" codes are Body.
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html
thanx ranger...however, I've looked up the codes already and I have their meanings, I just need them simplified for me. I have no idea what SDM calibration mismatch (B1155) means or Loss of serial data-key not received (B1159). Thats not lingo for a person with little knowledge of cars like myself, however I'm a very fast learner and very competent when it comes to learning about cars. Your experties would be very much appreciated ranger. I've read alot of advice you have given throughout these forums and saw that you get nothing but good feedback. Please be patient with me because not only do I love my baby eldo, but I really need her as well. I just don't have sufficient funds to take her to the dealer and on top of that, quite frankly, I really don't trust too many people with her. I know I'll take pride and quality in the work I put in to her but I can't say that about anyone else with confidence. I trust the cady family because the help that is received is for the love of the cady. It's genuine!
Your replacement Cluster needs to be programmed. It is not calibrated to match your vehicles VIN or its systems. When a cluster is sent out for repair at the dealer on that vehicle, the repair center needs alot of info regarding current vehicle settings in order to make it work. Without looking it up, I think your dealer can recalibrate the Cluster to your vehicle. That sort of thing is just not not as simple as swapping a part.
One of your previous codes was p0300, how are your plugs and wires, it wil take about 3 drive cycles for the rest of the codes to come back. Tech is right on about the IPC being programmed, If you look after that first, some of what GM calls SOH (state of Health) codes should disappear. Is it possible for you to obtain a Shop Manual? It will be a great help to you if can obtain one.
I changed my plugs but couldn't afford to change the wires just yet. They're a little more expensive than I expected. Planning on changing the wires and o2 sensor(s) on my next check. Been working plenty of overtime just so I can. As for the IPC, when I changed it myself, The theft system disabled the car so I was forced to take it to the dealer. They charged for removing the old one, and then again for replacing with the new one. They said nothing about calibrating the IPC with the car, only calibrating a new key. They charged for every "pass" made, said it could take up to 30 tries to find the right pass key code.
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