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2011 CTS Performance Coupe -3.6 DI 6 Speed Manual
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Discussion Starter #1
Finally decided to bite the bullet and change my Daytime Running Lights drl to LED. I bought a couple of bulbs from KBcarstuff.com XD-5202_LED, they are 30W CREE LED in 5000K color.
It turned out perfectly, I love the look. It brings my 2011 CTS Coupe up to date as far as a white look from the bulbs, no more dull yellowish glow.
I watched a couple of U tube videos on pulling the front clip and everything went well. I pulled the wheels off and fully removed the wheel wells. A little more work but easier to pull the clip.
 

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2011 CTS Performance Coupe -3.6 DI 6 Speed Manual
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479 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It matches the light bar, but the light bar Is only on when the headlight is on. The DRL are on by themselves unless you rewire the bar to be on with the DRL
 

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12 CTS 3.6 Coupe Premium Black
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103 Posts
The incandescent DRL's on my car have got to go. Your replacements look great. Any issues to date with your LEDs, cawengr?
 

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2011 CTS Performance Coupe -3.6 DI 6 Speed Manual
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479 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
No problems to date and I am extremely pleased with the look. The job is not as bad as it sounds, I could probably do it in an hour now.
 

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2008 CTS
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9 Posts
I changed stock bulb in about 45 mins its quite easy to do yourself..either make the 5 dollar tool or order one its make the clips come out ten times easier...now I think I'll have to do the different bulbs like the LED's
 

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12 CTS 3.6 Coupe Premium Black
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103 Posts
Changed mine out on my 2012 this afternoon.

I pulled the hood seal, underhood upper bumper clips, grill bracket bolts, fender liner clips (2 ea side), and the 10 mm bumper corner/fender bolt. That was enough to pull the bumper cover open to remove the HLs. Swap the lamps, test, and put it all back together. I have a bunch of pics that I have to UL. For now, no more yellow DRLs.

2015-06-26 18.14.13.jpg
 

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2014 CTS Vsport Premium
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121 Posts
This looks great, it totally updates the look of the car. Can you also install led turn signals so you don't see the orange shining through with then off? If so, what is the part number to that bulb as well. Thanks.
 

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Cadillac ATS Coupe 3.6 Performance AWD
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126 Posts
Very nice, VegasSparky. If those photos are of the process I'd really like to see how to do this!
 

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12 CTS 3.6 Coupe Premium Black
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103 Posts
I'll post more pics when I get a chance to PB them. I've exceeded my attachment quota, or some hoohah, here on the site.

It really does give the front end an even more modern appearance.

----------

Here's a decent shot of them finished. They're bright enough that its difficult to get a pic without them washing out the image. Good stuff!! ;)





Have I mentioned that I love this car? LOL
 

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2008 CTS
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161 Posts
I was surprised how small the access hole is I couldn't get my hand in there to well I had to ask a friend for help lol
 

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'10 CTS4 3.6L Wagon prem; '06 STS 3.6L base; '98 Seville STS
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2,341 Posts
i need part #s/ website for LED DRL, fog and license plate lights
 

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12 CTS 3.6 Coupe Premium Black
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103 Posts
Here's my best attempt at a write via mobile. I took some of the pics during reassembly, so disregard the color of the DRLs.

For my 2012 3.6l CTS the Sylvania Bulb Guide calls for lamp style 5201 for DRLs. After a little searching I found "50W" 5202 LEDs which were suitable for this application.



I watched a couple YT vids about bumper cover removal. Watch the vids, and pay attention to your particular MY, as mine was slightly different from what I had seen.

I started at the bumper corner/fender liner removing 2 push pins (red), and pulled the wheel liner bumper cover apart slightly on DS and PS. I may have removed a couple of pins on the bottom as I found neccesary. Up at the top rear corners of the cover is a single, galvanized 10mm bolt(yel) to be removed. A deep socket, and 6" extension did fine. Removing those few fasteners was enough to free the cover from fender and liner.



Under the hood I removed the 6 thumbscrews holding a cover, and hood seal down. Set it aside.



Then just a couple body clips on each side(red), and 10mm bolts(yel) holding the grill bracket to header panel. Next, I pulled the rear bumper cover out away from the fender at the wheel well. There are friction tabs, along with the mechanical fasteners which were already removed. Don't pull on anything too hard until you are sure all the appropriate fasteners have been removed.



At this point I could pull the cover away far enough to see the HL mounting fasteners. I found a 10mm bolt on the top, amd side, and a 10mm nut on the bottom. Remove those fasteners, and check to see if you can free the HL.



Pulling the cover away a little more gave me room to pull the HL assy out, and twist it to a working position to access the back lamp covers. A MF cloth on the fender to protect the HL face may be wise if you are clumsy, or aggressive. I did not unplug the main HL connector. The tail is long enough. The lamp access covers were held on with (3)7mm screws.



As Sal mentioned, the access' are tight. Hard to get man hands in there. Squeeze, and pull the lamp wiring connector off. Then squeeze the tabs that release the actual lamp. One tab seemed harder to get to than the other. I released the more difficult side, cocked the lamp, released the other, and pulled it straight back out to remove.



With the old lamp out, compare it to the new. These lamps are keyed, and reliefs in the housing allow them to to only be installed one way.



Notice the tabs, spot the reliefs, and install the new lamp. Plug in the connector, and start the engine to test that it works. If it's okay, reinstall the HL, and repeat the process on the other side of the car. The rest is all reverse of removal.

That's it. While I did this I acknowledged that I could have also accessed the driving lights, and it looked like the ECM was on the DS, behind the bumper cover.

Now go somewhere, and take a nice pic of your car for us. :D




Have I mentioned that I love this car? :D
 

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Registered
'10 CTS4 3.6L Wagon prem; '06 STS 3.6L base; '98 Seville STS
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2,341 Posts
Here's my best attempt at a write via mobile. I took some of the pics during reassembly, so disregard the color of the DRLs.

For my 2012 3.6l CTS the Sylvania Bulb Guide calls for lamp style 5201 for DRLs. After a little searching I found "50W" 5202 LEDs which were suitable for this application.

I watched a couple YT vids about bumper cover removal. Watch the vids, and pay attention to your particular MY, as mine was slightly different from what I had seen.

I started at the bumper corner/fender liner removing 2 push pins (red), and pulled the wheel liner bumper cover apart slightly on DS and PS. I may have removed a couple of pins on the bottom as I found neccesary. Up at the top rear corners of the cover is a single, galvanized 10mm bolt(yel) to be removed. A deep socket, and 6" extension did fine. Removing those few fasteners was enough to free the cover from fender and liner.

Under the hood I removed the 6 thumbscrews holding a cover, and hood seal down. Set it aside.

Then just a couple body clips on each side(red), and 10mm bolts(yel) holding the grill bracket to header panel. Next, I pulled the rear bumper cover out away from the fender at the wheel well. There are friction tabs, along with the mechanical fasteners which were already removed. Don't pull on anything too hard until you are sure all the appropriate fasteners have been removed.

At this point I could pull the cover away far enough to see the HL mounting fasteners. I found a 10mm bolt on the top, amd side, and a 10mm nut on the bottom. Remove those fasteners, and check to see if you can free the HL.

Pulling the cover away a little more gave me room to pull the HL assy out, and twist it to a working position to access the back lamp covers. A MF cloth on the fender to protect the HL face may be wise if you are clumsy, or aggressive. I did not unplug the main HL connector. The tail is long enough. The lamp access covers were held on with (3)7mm screws.

As Sal mentioned, the access' are tight. Hard to get man hands in there. Squeeze, and pull the lamp wiring connector off. Then squeeze the tabs that release the actual lamp. One tab seemed harder to get to than the other. I released the more difficult side, cocked the lamp, released the other, and pulled it straight back out to remove.

With the old lamp out, compare it to the new. These lamps are keyed, and reliefs in the housing allow them to to only be installed one way.

Notice the tabs, spot the reliefs, and install the new lamp. Plug in the connector, and start the engine to test that it works. If it's okay, reinstall the HL, and repeat the process on the other side of the car. The rest is all reverse of removal.

That's it. While I did this I acknowledged that I could have also accessed the driving lights, and it looked like the ECM was on the DS, behind the bumper cover.

Now go somewhere, and take a nice pic of your car for us. :D

Have I mentioned that I love this car? :D
Wonderful. Thank you
 
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