Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Banned
98 sls
Joined
·
1,305 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I read so many things about it i get confused


i hear trunk seal
i hear weather stripping adhesive
I dont know what to think
 

·
Registered
02 STS
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
SEARCH!

BTW body seams and screw blocks by the rear window... Its almost NEVER the seal... replace it LAST after exhausting all other sources.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
SEARCH!

BTW body seams and screw blocks by the rear window... Its almost NEVER the seal... replace it LAST after exhausting all other sources.
I thought for sure I had read that there was an updated seal to fix the problem. Guess I better check again.
 

·
Registered
02 STS
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Yes there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) on the gasket and a new updated gasket part...

More often then not the Factory TSBs are a great place to start...
In this case the TSB is... well... uhm... 9 times out of 10 Wrongo!

This will invite one post after another stating that a dealer replaced the gasket and solved their problem. Good dealers will follow the TSB (since that's what GM HQ tells the to do) and then they will augment the fix by sealing the rear filler screw blocks with goo and will fix all of the seam gaps behind the tail lights and at the top of the quarters near the trunk hinges with 3M body seam filler, butyl goo or the like.

This has been covered to death over and over... One more time with feeling

1) Remove all of the carpet trim and the spare from inside the trunk
2) Climb in with a flash light... Close lid
3) Have wife/friend/kid slowly hose down the trunk... start low around the taillights watch inside with the flash light... leaky body seams will be obvious... The ones around the tail lights are problematic
4) Slowly work the hose up from low to high
5) Watch the top corners of the trunk near the hinges... If it leaks here you have at least one bad screw block. There are four. Open the trunk and look under the fold in the rubber flap back there remove the 4 screws. Cover the blocks with a non-hardening automotive sealer and replace trim and the screws... if goo oozes out around the screws you did it right.
6) Last have your helper hose down around the rear licence plate... If and only if it leaks around the latch should you consider replacing the gasket... Again do this last... Once you have tried (and fixed) all of the above.

The gasket replacement REQUIRES that the car be parked inside overnight with the TRUNK OPEN... this lets the glue dry. If you close the trunk before the glue is dry the new gasket will compress too far an the new gasket is likely to leak... The TSB says this too... This part I would follow.

There you go... Good Luck... This can be fixed for $5 worth of Butyl goo... Some have reported the Home Depot silicon sealant works too... My experience with silicon sealant is that it doesn't stick to high gloss automotive paint very well and will only provide for a short term fix. Most automotive parts places have butyl goo... You can also find this stuff at home depot in the "gutters" aisle... This is the sealant they normally use to seal up aluminum gutters... buy black if you make a mess it will be invisible against the black rubber flap/gasket.
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
69,126 Posts
........and if you leave the trunk open all night, the RAP system will turn off the light automatically after (10)? minutes......
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top