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not anymore 2007 Lexus ES350
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well ok got the LCA with in a day from Ordering it and shipping got it on Tuesday had it installed on Wensday
paid 58.50 to a shop to put it on no warranty on labor or anything so it freaked me out when i first got in and had to turn around and hear a rubbing noise but drove it to the alignment shop and had the alignment doen no more rubbing so that was just because the alignment was so off
then they said i still need a driver side out tie rod so they put a raybesto tire rod on the driver side
runs and drives good still has a shimmy in the front and they say nothing els could be causing it nothing is loose or to tight everything on the front end is perfect they said
so short of just knowing im gona always have to had a RFB to get ride of the shimmy wishing any other ideas cause they say its all great

also i don't really notice anyting different with the new LCA what should i try to pay atention to to feel the difrance between the new arm and bushings and the old one ?
 

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I bet high spots on the wheel hubs from corrosion build up are causing the shimmy. That's what caused mine. Many others have had the same problem. Since your car spends its time in Ohio, I'm sure they could use a good cleaning. Even cars in a southern climate can suffer from this because water just seems to find its way onto the hubs no matter what. Salt just makes it worse.

As far as the LCA bushings go, I have no idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bet high spots on your wheel hubs from corrosion build up are causing the shimmy. That's what caused mine. Many others have had the same problem. Since your car spends its time in Ohio, I'm sure they could use a good cleaning. Even cars in a southern climate can suffer from this because water just seems to find its way onto the hubs no matter what.

As far as the LCA bushings go, I have no idea.
Front Passanger Wheel Hub Bearing was just repalced a month ago so that would only mean its the drivers side casuing it if thats the case
what should i do
take a wire wheel brush or something and just start working away with the drill ?
 

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The wheel hubs as well as BOTH sides of the rotors AND the backside of the wheels. All of these surfaces must be "surgically" clean. High spots caused by corrosion leads to excessive runout, which equates to wheel wobble at highway speeds. This is commonly overlooked. Our Sevilles are very sensitive when it comes to wheel/rotor mounting surfaces.

I spent a full day last summer wire brushing all surfaces. I replaced the rotors, so all I had to do was brush the wheel hubs and the wheels. I used a wire wheel drill attachment. It solved my highway shake.

I'm sure others will attest to this.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i think its getting to be time to check my breaks also in the front got 49k on the fronts since they where last changed pads and rotors so im thinking its time to get the front pads changed i have that shimmy also when breaking from higher speeds so im thinking maybe the rotors need to be cleaned and turned but i knwo any shop i take it to will tell me the story about oh its not recomended to turn rotors anymore beds to replace them bull crap lol
just had these rotors replaces 15 months ago spend 60 bucks each on them
so i know im gona get sucked into geting rotors becuse they will say they cant take them down anymore ithere because of specs lol
but when i ask them to clean the hubs whyll they have them off they will problaby think i have no clue what im talking about and try to say well that one might just need to be repalced since its the one that was not replaced or say well we really cant do that lol

but gona give it a shot in the dark whyll its there for breaks next month most possibly

if they already have the rotors off what els would they need to take off to get to the hubs to clean them up are they gona give me a load of crock about its a pain in the but and we have to charge you this mouch more labor ?
 

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Once the rotors are off, the hubs are accessible. I am not sure what a shop would charge for that, but I would think that they should clean them if they're replacing pads/rotors. I would not trust them to do it, though.

The shaking that you feel when braking does not necessarily have to be the surface of the rotors; it could be corrosion build up on the mounting surfaces of the hubs/rotors/wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Once the rotors are off, the hubs are accessible. I am not sure what a shop would charge for that, but I would think that they should clean them if they're replacing pads/rotors. I would not trust them to do it, though.

The shaking that you feel when braking does not necessarily have to be the surface of the rotors; it could be corrosion build up on the mounting surfaces of the hubs/rotors/wheels.
i know im gona atleast have the pads changed and see if they will turn the rotors but knowing what they do here in cleveland the last few years they always come back sayign they cant be turned or cleaned they are already at spec anymore and they will be below spec so that is what sucks

but will for sure ask them to clean the hub serfice and also problaby charge me a couple bucks to clean the inside of the wheels and all
 

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I am not sure what a shop would charge for that, but I would think that they should clean them if they're replacing pads/rotors. I would not trust them to do it, though.
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They didn't... I was there behind the windows and I was observing how they treated my car and how they repaired it.... And that incident plus some other previous experiences convinced me that I should not let anyone else touch my car and I should Do It Myself!
 

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i know im gona atleast have the pads changed and see if they will turn the rotors but knowing what they do here in cleveland the last few years they always come back sayign they cant be turned or cleaned they are already at spec anymore and they will be below spec so that is what sucks
Yeah, same here! But that is over! There are three DIY repair centers around me and I simply drive there and rent a lift and tools and I do my own repairs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You only did one side?
yeah i only have a buget im working with right now for the next month that isnt to hot
iv put 4k into the engine in Dec another 500 in the card for wheel bearing and sensore harness and something els i cant remmebr tie rod in January

so i only had the funds to go with 1 side and since in Dec i just had the ball joint on the driver side replaced im not feeling like wasting that money i spend on that by replacing the LCA on that side

why is it bad to only go with one side ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, same here! But that is over! There are three DIY repair centers around me and I simply drive there and rent a lift and tools and I do my own repairs!
we dont have any of those around here
and if someone was close by to me that could work me threw each thing i hav to do the first time then id feel better about doing it myself
i know how can someonne fumble a break job lol
well i did i dont know what happend but i fumbled one good a few years back had to tow the car to the shop
 

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yeah i only have a buget im working with right now for the next month that isnt to hot
iv put 4k into the engine in Dec another 500 in the card for wheel bearing and sensore harness and something els i cant remmebr tie rod in January

so i only had the funds to go with 1 side and since in Dec i just had the ball joint on the driver side replaced im not feeling like wasting that money i spend on that by replacing the LCA on that side

why is it bad to only go with one side ?
I don't if it is bad, I mean if you only do one side then get an alignment you are going to need to do an alignment again once the other side is replaced. I need to have my LCAs replaced too, got the car in May 09 and the shop I go to said they were shot and he said $500 PER SIDE and now I see you only paid $50 per side for labor.

I'm going by the shop either today or tomorrow and letting them know what I need done so I get quotes on each thing, LCA's may be part of it depending on what they say now (price wise)
 

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shops get away with whatever they can. i did brakes on a friends car and found out his ball joint was bad. ordered new LCA and could not get pinch bolt loose. it was a mazda, not caddy. the pinch bolt was tapered, not a standard bolt. he took it to local shop and had LCA installed. i checked it later and they put in a standard bolt. the ball joint has a taper and groove to accept pinch bolt. probably will never be an issue but the right part is not installed. annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't if it is bad, I mean if you only do one side then get an alignment you are going to need to do an alignment again once the other side is replaced. I need to have my LCAs replaced too, got the car in May 09 and the shop I go to said they were shot and he said $500 PER SIDE and now I see you only paid $50 per side for labor.

I'm going by the shop either today or tomorrow and letting them know what I need done so I get quotes on each thing, LCA's may be part of it depending on what they say now (price wise)
oh not worried about the alignment every 3 years i go to NTB pay them 189 dollars get myself a 3 year alignment program that can be transferred to 1 car with in that 3 years if i ever sell or trade in
it gives me alignments every 6k or 6 months without charge so 189 plus taxes for 3 years of alignments and i go in every 6 k like clock work
i drive 35k a year on the avg so to go in as many times as i do this program they say was built for ppl like me lol
i also get free rotations and air check and inspection when ever i feel like i need it
so not worried about having to do the alignment again thats no issue

the shop was probably going to charge you a 50 percent mark up on the part it sounds like i think retail on these at a parts store are like 120 each
and the labor is 1.3 hours at least Mitchell book time i think thats what i was charged

and my labor rate at the shop i found on CL wich is a big shop is in a dealership they have over 30 cars in there garage its on the big Ohio Bedford Auto Mile so they do alot of work for other dealers around there also and service there own cars also have 9 mechanics working for them
they charge 45 an hour labor so at 1.3 thats 58.50 plus taxes
at a shop that will charge probably round 80 or 89 an hour your probable looking at about 140 in labor plus parts plus tax
 
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