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'99 Seville STS; '96/7 ETC
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Discussion Starter #1
All a bit odd, this one.

I won't bore you with the details but an entry was effected, by a supposed expert, to my locked car. When I went to it, to move it, the key wouldn't turn more than to, I suppose, 10/20 degrees. All other functions work BUT I don't like being dependant on electrics to lock/unlock the car. Presumably this is a simple(?) mechanical fault but I'm apprehensive about investigating the inside of the door or, even, removing the door card.

What I don't understand how introducing one of those inflatable devices into the gap between the door top and the roof &/or the B-pillar & flicking up the sill lbutton (at least I think that's how it was done) would cause the lock not to fully turn.
 

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1926 Model T street rod, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 1999 Corvette.
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I doubt that's the way it was done. A flat long blade was probably inserted down into the door and a lock rod was bent as he pulled up on the rod. Their problem not yours!
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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What I don't understand how introducing one of those inflatable devices into the gap between the door top and the roof &/or the B-pillar & flicking up the sill lbutton (at least I think that's how it was done) would cause the lock not to fully turn.
It wouldn't have any affect on the lock cylinder. The inflatable devices simply pries the door open enough to get to the lock button.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Odd, 'cos I distinctly remember replying to this BUT there's nothing posted.

Can't be bothered to replicate the original but, in essence:-

An inflatable device WAS used: my stepson was there!

Whatever the rights & wrongs of it are, the contractor is long gone & in any event, all concerned would deny liability.

I need to be able to lock/unlock MY car - so it is, very much, MY problem.

The bent lock rod seems likely (but do they bend in normal use?) which gets me back to square one, i.e. having to tear the door apart, a prospect I don't relish, particularly as the car's out in the street. In any event it'll have to wait until I'm back down in Devon because there's just too much traffic in this "quiet" London suburban street. Meanwhile, if it disappears - so does the problem (& all the others).
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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This is probably what they used on the car.


The bent lock rod seems likely (but do they bend in normal use?)
Rarely

which gets me back to square one, i.e. having to tear the door apart, a prospect I don't relish
Removing the door panel is relatively easy.

I'd advise using a door panel tool to pull the perimeter retainers.
 

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2001 Seville STS, 1990 Seville (RIP), 1972 Sedan Deville
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Because of where the retainers are, that took won't do any good other than being a pry tool against the panel itself and the paint. Short sharp tugs on the edges of the panel work much better (after the screws are removed of course).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I do have one of those tools (mainly because of all those plastic panels held by plastic clips so prevalent on this generation of Cadillacs) but recently read elsewhere that MC's method is better with modern cars.

I thought I was used to hidden fastenings after 10 years of Jag XJ40's but I'm really not looking forward to this but I am grateful for your input.

Whatever sort of inflatable device was used, it doesn't explain why the rod is bent, after all why should pulling up the button with a bit of wire, or whatever, be any different from using your fingers? Still, we are where we are & a post mortem's not going to get the job done - or even the door card off!
 

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I can post instructions and pictures if you need them/havent found them elsewhere. It's pretty simple, less than 5 minute job once you've done it once.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
MC, ah yes, once you've done before, so true, so true - for any job!

I must confess, the difficulty here really is unfamiliarity breeding apprehension. Yes, I'd be only too pleased to accept your offer. I DO have a manual, which I'm still trying to find my round - but it's 220 miles from the car at the moment!

vincentm - I understand your despair BUT, it's only a matter of time before the electronics fail . . . Besides it really shouldn't be such a problem, after all the any linkage must be short/simple but, more importantly, accessible - but then I haven't endured the frustration you clearly have!
 

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Sorry for the delay, apparently the Photobucket for android phones is glitchy. It kept crashing whenever I hit upload. One of many things I'm finding don't work as smoothly as they did on my iPhones. But anyway.....

The first screw isn't hidden, just low down on the door and out of sight:



Two more behind the perforrated panel. The section behind the door pull is a "hinged" flap. Just pull it from the bottom, it's held down with Velcro:



Last one is behind the plastic cover behind the door handle. Pry it towards you from the forward edge with a small flat head. There are two small clips holding it in place. Sometimes they break, sometimes they don't:



Now all that's holding the door is clips. Pick a bottom corner, wedge your fingers in there and tug. Go around the bottom and sides until they're all detached. Then you want to lift the door panel up (it's hooked in along the window sill) and then away from the door slightly. There are a few wiring harnesses to disconnect, which are simple. The cable for the inside door handle can be a little tricky the first time. The cable end just needs to be pushed out of the handle with a screwdriver, easy. Then you'll see that the end of thr cable housing is held to the door panel by a plastic sleeve. There's a little tab on the sleeve that has to be lifted with a small screwdriver, and then the sleeve can be slid forward and detached from the door panel. It's less complicated than it sounds.

Once the panel is off you'll see the plastic vapor barrier. A round it will be white circular retainers. Look closely, the centers of the retainers are a separate piece. With a screwdriver, push the centers inwards to disengage them. Note that to reuse them, you want to push the centers in the opposite direction so that they're protruding. Then to install just push them into place and push the centers flush again.

BTW, if the vapor barrier is black, your job will be easier. If it's green or grey, especially green, it's as fragile as eggshells. Don't be surprised if it breaks or is even already broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for that, really no need to apologise - especially as I'm off-line, & often away, at weekends!

Maybe not as bad as I feared BUT not a job to be done against the clock - or with the door open into passing traffic!
 
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