Sounds like the switch needs replaced...the cylinder at minimum.

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I am thinking that, possibly. BUT I want to know how that mechanism works. The little push "thing" releases the key to the off position. I just barely need to press it and it works. So I am hoping it is an adjustment or something and not a whole assembly.

 

What year are we working with?

Not sure this would make any difference but, is it a luxury, base, etc?

Any mods to the ECM, stereo, etc?

If you press on the center of the steering wheel do you hear a loud noise?

That last one is optional...[emoji2957]



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I get where you are going...

<<<<< HERE. It is the same car in my forums post to the left. you have a 2003 CTS, I have a 2007 CTS BASE. No mods, Steering wheel, column, etc. all tight. No looseness or rattling. My wife said it just happened one day and actually slowly got worse. At first it would stick, but after rotating the key back and forth a few times it would finally rotate all the way back to let to release. Since I found out how to remove it with a simple push through the column hole, I have not tried to see how many times it takes, now.

The REAL POINT is that the key is not actually "stuck" per-se. It just does not go all the way to the "OFF" position and therefore I can not remove it. The key does NOT go all the way to the FULL back, "off" and remove location. it stops just before that, so the key never goes full back. When it is "stuck", the engine is off, but the car is still ON and opening the door has the chimes and lights stay on, all that.

It is basically like if you put the key in the ignition and turning it forward slowly until it JUST clicks and everything turns on. And then you try to turn it back and you can't unless you press the column release.

 

Switch...or gremlins...or a savvy noid.

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THIS IS SOMEONE ELSES PIC, but I remember seeing this when I swapped the turn signal switch and removed the column cover.

Here it is, under the column. The round silver disk is what releases the key (I Think). There is a lever tab, and the little center "button" is what I press in to release the key. AGAIN, I believe this is the case. I believe it is electronic, somehow. I will do some experimenting and see. Will be nice not to have to grab an Alan wrench to press it in every time I get out of the car...

Where I got the key removal hints...

 

Isn't there like 3 fuses for that switch

 

It's probably a electromagnet or a spring that winds when the key is turned. I've never seen one go bad but there's a first time for everything.

Anyone have any experience with this?

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Hmm. Just a few thoughts.

1. Does the shift position sensor detect the shifter in park? If you can turn the key off with the shifter in neutral, the problem could be a faulty sensor.
2. If you have a second key, does the same thing happen with that key?
3. If you have a junkyard near, you could maybe pick up a cylinder and set of keys for relatively cheap. I don't know of any special programming needed for a swap but this may be worth checking.

 

When I put the shifter in park, the doors unlock. I set it that way. So I know the park switch is working.
I have two spare keys, does it with both.
I was going to get a new cylinder and set that up, but I really am not leaning towards that. When I had the cylinder out and cleaned and lubed it, I could remove and insert the key at will.

So, I took the console covers off and here was what I found. That silver round "thing" and the button actually pulls down. My finger is on the lever point that using a pin or other "long pointy thing" with the cover on presses on. That button has a pin that goes into the switch mechanism that locks and releases the key. There is also that lever my finger is on that you see in the pics has a wire harness, which gets electrified to this whole mechanism like others believe, electromechanical. The lever that is on the pin had slop, a couple MMs. So I put in a plastic spacer. I cut clear tubing, sliced the side, burned a hole in the center. Fit it around and Voila!!

SO FAR, it works perfectly, no issues. Put it all back together, and ALL key cycles function as expected. Did it several times so far.

I know it seems silly, but it is the little things to be able to take your key out of the ignition like normal people...

Not trying to sound weird, but maybe a sticky for others that need this in the future when it wears out...

 

Thank you!! 2008 Cadillac Srx v6 owner and this started happening to me tonight. Freaked me out. But your post helped me not to drain my battery.

I had all the same symptoms except my tpms light started flashing on a 13 min trip back home. After a couple hours, I swung by the corner store and as soon as I parked in the driveway, I couldn't turn off my key

I now have a new project to tackle once I get settled in my new place.

 

Thanks for posting this fix! I never would have thought that little gadget would fail, but hopefully others will find it helpful.

 

Well done.

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Thank you all for the thoughts and suggestions. I honestly do not know how it really even failed or "wore", just possibly got a bit loose and sloppy. But even then not sure how. Nothing is there, nothing touches it. Maybe just got tired...

One thing at a time. NOW, on to the thumping in the rear-end in my other, other thread. That is the last and biggest issue I have.

 

My money is on rusted coil perch... I should probably go to your other thread... [emoji854]

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Does anybody know what this mechanism is called?

 

1. Welcome to the forums!

2. You shouldn’t revive dead threads, just make a new one.

3. There’s no special name for that mechanism, it’s just a part of the lock cylinder.

 

Actually, it is called the Ignition Lock Solenoid. The problem is, at least for my 07 SRX, they are no longer available ANYWHERE. I am about to embark on a 'repair' quest rather than a 'replace' or hack (though I have seen some good ones) and will post my results.

 

Hey Sandnritchie. Have you been able to track down any testing information... I started a new thread and trying to find some testing information.

It looks like rookies can't PM or post links.

 

Il y a un petit capuchon sous le volant avec un trou linéaire. Enlève le et tu pousse sur un petit bouton. Ça vas libéré la clé mais ça ne réparera pas le problème

 

Il y a un petit capuchon sous le volant avec un trou linéaire. Enlève le et tu pousse sur un petit bouton. Ça vas libéré la clé mais ça ne réparera pas le problème

Correct, une solution à court terme, mais cela devient assez gênant au bout d’un moment.

Le solénoïde n'est plus disponible à moins d'avoir beaucoup de chance ou de trouver un bon modèle d'occasion. Un calage ou un collier en plastique autour de la goupille est une solution de fortune. Mais ça fonctionne.

(The solenoid is not available anymore unless you are very lucky or find a good used one. A shim or a plastic zip tire around the pin is a hack fix. But works. )