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Discussion Starter #1
This is a long post but I want to really describe what's happening... sorry.

There are two situations and they may be related. About 2 months ago my car's (cts) electrical system would "reset" while I'm driving. Basically everything shuts off and restarts right away. Radio would turn off and turn on, lights would blink off then on (as it resets), etc... After awhile I noticed this happened when my traction control and / or ABS would activate. Then it started to just randomly happen while driving and it also happened when I turned my high beams on. When I turned my turn signal or fog lights on, the electrical system would just dim or blink for a moment... like a drop in current but would not reset. When it reset it would reset my average MPG also.

Then.... one day my key got stuck in the ignition. I put it in, try to start the car and nothing happened. I tried to take the key out of the ignition but couldn't. Released the key using the little key release under the steering column. During this time, the electrical system did not work at all. Couldn’t turn on the lights, lock the doors, anything. No lights (error, shift, etc) were on either. I tried hooking up a code reader and it didn't even power that up (it was a cheap actron code reader). I played around and checked if the battery had voltage using a test light across the + and - terminals and it did. I did a few other small tests and then, out of the blue, it worked.

This morning... same thing. Key stuck in ignition and no electrical what so ever. This time I took my time and did everything I did last time one at a time to see what I did that made it work. After I checked the battery with the test light + to - terminals, the car's electrical turned on and I could start the car. Both times this happened, I do not know if the electrical system was not working before I put the key in the ignition or if it stopped working after I put the key in the ignition. I will have to pay attention to that if it happens again.

The electrical system reset problem that I mentioned in the first paragraph hasn't occurred for a couple weeks now. I think they may be related. I'm good with mechanical but HATE electrical issues. Anyone know where to go from here?

Again... sorry for the long post. It seems like a lot of people have the "key stuck in the ignition" problem but they get some electrical response... I get none. Thanks.
 

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Same thing happened to me a few years back. Car would loose power for a split second then everything would be fine, then one day everything completely shut down and key was stuck. The fix turned out to be very simple, i just swapped out the ECM fuse and it never happened again. Give it a shot.
 

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battery can cause this, there is a chance it is defective, my girls battery was about 1.5yrs old and it went bad.
that being siad it may not be your issue., check its voltage and capacity if you can.

other issue you may have is loose relays, pop the cover off your fuse box and push everything in there, dont break anything just you have to push firmly.
check all the battery wires to make sure they are snug, check the fuse box power wire, and i havent seen 1 but there should be a ground on the fuse box too.

what engine do you have? the 04 had the 3.2 or ther 3.6...its probably not related to your electrical issues but it helps to know, and if you put the engine in your cars title of your info bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have the 3.6L. I'll have to look at the fuse box. I do remember playing around in it (looking at relays, fused, etc...) before checking the battery with the test light.... so maybe thats where I'll start to look.... Kind of sounds bad, but I hope it happens again (while in my heated garage and not before I have to go to work), so I can play around and diagnose it.
 

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I have also had electrical issues with a 98 Suburban. Certainly not this demanding, but it has always turned out to be a slight loosening of the side mount battery terminals. Usually the positive, as it has two cables and connectors. I now have to retighten them at every oil change. Whenever there is an electrical problem, that's the first place I look. Good luck and keep us advised.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So just an update.... the electrical system failer and no start condition happend today again. I also noticed when i pushed the window up button it caused enough draw to reset my electrical system. This time it caused enough draw to actually shut the car off. When it shut off the entire electrical system was off. I checked my batter voltage with my test light (seemed to work in the past)... and nothing. No light. I know my battery isn't "bad" because it started 5 minutes before that. If it was bad, it wouldn't have started and It's an problem that happens every so often.. and not every time i start the car. So here is my diagnosis... Let me know if this sounds good to anyone or if I'm missing something.

-Electrical system "resets" when there is a big draw on the system (abs, traction control, high beams, window up (when the window is up)).
-Electrical system "dims" when there is a small draw on the sytem (fog lights turn on, turn signal on, interior lights on)
-When the "no start" system occured, there is no power what so ever in the car and, as I discovered today, No power at the battery posts.
-When I was messing around with the cables (wasn't really moving them around that much), power was restored, my test light lit up, and car could be started.

I'm thinking my + or - wire terminals at my batter are bad, or have a bad connection? Could it be that when i started my car this morning, the connection was good, then something made the wires move and the connection was lost so the only thing powering my car was the alternator. When my abs and traction would kick in (driving in snow), it was too much power for the alternator to handle so it just reset the sytem. (I noticed my battery gauge is also not a constant voltage during all this... it was 15v then would go down to 12, then up th 14, etc...) Then when I shut off my car (since the connection at the battery was bad) it wouldn't let me start it....

It sounds like that's the problem to me, but just want to get some input from other people if there is something I'm missing. Is there a way i can "further" diagnose the progem? I'm going to look at it tonight when i get home from work and i'll update this post when i'm done.

Thanks...
 

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I suggest taking the battery to an auto parts store to test the battery out by itself. If they deem it to be ok. Then install the battery and take the car down there to test the alternator.

Come back with the results. And while you are at the auto parts store, get yourself a multimeter. A test light just tells you "hey you have power" but doesn't tell you how much.

KOT
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Was a bad battery... It didn't actually test bad at the store but there would be no other reason for the battery to be dead (0v) then all of a sudden after a few taps, show 12v... I'm thinking there was something physically broke inside the battery. It was under warranty so I replaced it. There was no corrosion on the terminals. Plus the battery was leaking acid. When I took off the covers the water level was also down. With the new battery, my car is showing a constant 14.7 volts instead of jumping all over the place. Have to look into why the battery was leaking acid. Want to check to make sure the system isn't overcharging. It's not the origional 101 group battery. After my origional battery went bad, I installed a 78 (i think) group... it was the group that is the same as the 101 size...which i think is a 78. Anyways... problem fixed, and works well.
 

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Glad to hear all is well. I assume it's the same battery that was replaced? Same type and all I mean. If so, then obviously you can look on the battery to see what it is. By the way, most batteries are sealed not to be taken apart. So I wouldn't be taking the covers off. Yeah I know that you did it to that battery when you figured it out as being bad.

KOT

PS Did you get a multimeter now? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yea i have a multimeter... but need to get a new one.... It's old and it just broke today in the cold... the knob snapped lol. Yea it's the same battery as the old one... just can't think of the series... It's not the OEM 101 series though. That one is way too expensive and the only difference is the venting on it... which I'm not too sure why you need that in the cts for a battery under the hood? Anyways...if the caps aren't suppsed to be pried off, why are the two caps so easy to pop off? There are even built in slots on each side of the caps you can use a screwdriver to pop them off. I know they're supposed to be maintenance free but you can still add water to the cells if there low (distilled water of course) can't you?
 

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Yea i have a multimeter... but need to get a new one.... It's old and it just broke today in the cold... the knob snapped lol. Yea it's the same battery as the old one... just can't think of the series... It's not the OEM 101 series though. That one is way too expensive and the only difference is the venting on it... which I'm not too sure why you need that in the cts for a battery under the hood? Anyways...if the caps aren't suppsed to be pried off, why are the two caps so easy to pop off? There are even built in slots on each side of the caps you can use a screwdriver to pop them off. I know they're supposed to be maintenance free but you can still add water to the cells if there low (distilled water of course) can't you?
I worked in an oil change place for a while and yes that is not a maintenance free battery those are made to be popped off and the levels checked periodically. In fact if we pulled in a car and it has not been in the shop for a while they would make us pop those tabs up id do this about 20 times a day. I think KOT was thinking of a maintenance free battery or he thought you were actually rippin the top of the battery off and if that is the case I would highly advise against that. lol I once was doing a battery cleaning service at work and I was using a wire brush to break off some of that white acid on the terminals when a wind gust came in and blew a bit of it into my eye. I had to go to the hospital and get my eye flushed for 45 minutes luckly the acid didnt seep into my optic nerve and permanently blind me. The shoved one of these into my eye:


 

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Hello all,
I have the same issues as the op is having, however I have a 2003 cadillac dts.
The main time i notice this problem is when it rains outside or when there is alot of moisture in the air. I get the key not coming out of the ignition, when I turn the car on, some lights in the dash board work but others wont, and my blower motor works. The car will not turn over to start. When I try to pull up codes, all it says is no data for every category. I took it to the dealer and theyve had my car for over a week and cant find the problem. They are telling me that the problem has to be duplicated before they can diagnose the problem. Is this true?
When I first took it to them something killed my battery so they thought it was a battery problem till they charged the battery up. They called and told me to come pick the car up but as soon as I did, I tried to start the car (at the dealers) and it did it again (would not turn over). They are completely stumped and so am I.
Could it be something as simple as a battery or is it more to it than this?
Also I went to check up on the car earlier this week and the car started right up. I then pulled the codes and it read u1000. Did some research on this code and it seems this code is too broad to be able to pinpoint exactly where the problem lies. I need help.I left the car there in hopes they can find the problem but I NEED MY CAR BACK!! Is there anyone out there that has any clues as to what I should do next?
 

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Roofus,

My father-in-law had the same issue with his DTS. I took the bolt that connects the grounding wire to the body out and clean it. It was located under the back seat in his DTS. I cleaned it with WD-40. As soon as I put it back in the problem was gone and never came back, about two years now.
 

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Yesterday my key was stuck in the ignition, car would not turnover, everything else in the care was powered. Checked battery, cables, fuses, relays, all were fine. When getting ready to tow it to the shop I tried to start in one more time and it started to turnover, so I went back at it. Ended up finding a loose screw on the ECM. I think that when I had the timing chains replaced a year ago the screw did not get tightened properly. Started numerous times now with no problem.
 

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Wow! Same Poltergeist issue on my Cadillac 2007 CTS. Power just leaves at random. Battery indicator is at 14.7. When car is on it runs fine.

I discovered that the main power cord from the battery to the fuse box slightly shifts and when i use a screw driver to press down on it all the power comes back on. I thought at first is was the starter relay then my mechanic thought it was the fuelpump then we thought it was the chg of spark plugs needed... Nope so today hopefully without breaking my wallet i can get this fixed..

Last time my car stalled i was on the highway !!!! This passerby was a mechanic and he drilled a screw right over the main power cord and it seemed to fix the problem but it came back seems it still shifts due to the build up of electrical current.

Im also scheduled to go Monday to bring the car to dealership for a recall issue on the ignition switch again electrical!

Has anyone noticed the battery is fine and the alternator is fine ? then please you wont get fried just take a screw driver over the power cord into the fuse box and press down on it and your power comes on and your key is unstuck....
 

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This is a long post but I want to really describe what's happening... sorry.

There are two situations and they may be related. About 2 months ago my car's (cts) electrical system would "reset" while I'm driving. Basically everything shuts off and restarts right away. Radio would turn off and turn on, lights would blink off then on (as it resets), etc... After awhile I noticed this happened when my traction control and / or ABS would activate. Then it started to just randomly happen while driving and it also happened when I turned my high beams on. When I turned my turn signal or fog lights on, the electrical system would just dim or blink for a moment... like a drop in current but would not reset. When it reset it would reset my average MPG also.

Then.... one day my key got stuck in the ignition. I put it in, try to start the car and nothing happened. I tried to take the key out of the ignition but couldn't. Released the key using the little key release under the steering column. During this time, the electrical system did not work at all. Couldn’t turn on the lights, lock the doors, anything. No lights (error, shift, etc) were on either. I tried hooking up a code reader and it didn't even power that up (it was a cheap actron code reader). I played around and checked if the battery had voltage using a test light across the + and - terminals and it did. I did a few other small tests and then, out of the blue, it worked.

This morning... same thing. Key stuck in ignition and no electrical what so ever. This time I took my time and did everything I did last time one at a time to see what I did that made it work. After I checked the battery with the test light + to - terminals, the car's electrical turned on and I could start the car. Both times this happened, I do not know if the electrical system was not working before I put the key in the ignition or if it stopped working after I put the key in the ignition. I will have to pay attention to that if it happens again.

The electrical system reset problem that I mentioned in the first paragraph hasn't occurred for a couple weeks now. I think they may be related. I'm good with mechanical but HATE electrical issues. Anyone know where to go from here?

Again... sorry for the long post. It seems like a lot of people have the "key stuck in the ignition" problem but they get some electrical response... I get none. Thanks.
So my car is doing the same thing. Checked the battery which was purchased 2/19 and the alt both are fine. I get a check/service Electrical system on the DIM when I turn the car over, but the car just clicks. I changed the fuse for the ECM and now have zero power, no lights, no sensors when I turn the key. Then key was stuck so I figured out how to get that out. Anyway I am stumped. Will test the damn battery wires tomorrow and buy new fuses and then have the battery tested just in case I am wrong but it was 14.4 Volts which should work. Thinking of just replacing the damn ECM and going from there. Any ideas anyone?
 
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