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just made the deal i pick up my 2000 Seville on Tuesday next week

2726 Views 38 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  ThumperPup
Well i just made my deal with the nice deville i mean car dealer
2000 Seville SLS with 107k on it runs great only problem needs a new windshiel it has a crack so i can get that no problem but got it for 5999 but after taxes and intrest its going to cost me like 9000
and i know that is hi and all but i just filed bankruptcy and well i took what i could get :)

so do you guys think this is a good deal all aside from the 2000 pus in intrest i think its like 2300 intrest for 24 months do you think 5999 is a good price for this car
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Are you sure this is the best you can get?
yeah i called around all week
and asked dealers if they would give me like 5 months to pay a car off if i gave them like 3000 up front they all said no
this is the only person who was able to finance i had 4 other dealrships try to get me fianced and they could not
i drove this and it runs like it is brand new atleast from waht i could tell coudnt even tell it was turned on when it was turned on
$6k grand isn't too bad; i've seen a few STS's going for the same price with similar mileage but you're better off going with this car than that Deville.

Good luck with the car.
$6k grand isn't too bad; i've seen a few STS's going for the same price with similar mileage but you're better off going with this car than that Deville.

Good luck with the car.
yeah from what i saw and i look over the entire car only thing wrong with it is the cracked winshield but i can get one for 100 from a junk yard and then like 50 to have it put on i think maybe 80 not sure
other than that it is great
I was wondering since i use Mobil one full syne and i get the oil changed eveyr 5 to 6 k does this use up oil as fast as the deville do ? should i still put 1qt in eveyron 1500 miles like somone said to do with the deville ?
also once the service light comes on how do you get that reset ?
since i do my oil changes myself how do i reset the service light jsut curiouse thanks
Before buying that car, you need to check the codes and see what that service light is. It could be something minor, but it could be something extremely costly. Look at the top of the Seville/Eldo forums on info about how to pull codes and reset them. The code reader is built into the car and will give you any information about what is wrong with the car.
Before buying that car, you need to check the codes and see what that service light is. It could be something minor, but it could be something extremely costly. Look at the top of the Seville/Eldo forums on info about how to pull codes and reset them. The code reader is built into the car and will give you any information about what is wrong with the car.
oh no i didnt mean there where codes on no codes on now im saying isnt there a computer or somthing that will make a code come up or a message center say that its time for a OIl change or a service once that comes on how do i reset it
like do i need to go buy a scanner like what is is every 3k or 5 k that a oil light will come on to let you know its time for oil change ?
thats waht im asking about no codes on right now
Nope it's easy to reset the computer when you change the oil. Just go to the screen where the oil life resides, press the info/reset button and you're good to go.
The oil life monitor is reset by calling up the DIC message and then holding down the DIC button designated as "RESET" for 5 seconds or so. The only time you put oil in an engine is when the dipstick tells you to, never by the seat of your pants. A Northstar likes to run with the oil NEVER more than halfway up the hashmarks. Mobil 1 or a good brand of synthetic or dino oil in 5W-30 grade is the recommended oil for your car. Your car takes 7.5 quarts of oil with filter, never more. Use a WIX 51522 filter or the equivalent NAPA Gold unit. You'll need a jack and stands. As in the Factory Service Manual, prefill the filter.

As far as service engine lights and diagnostic codes, you have a ton of reading and study to do in the "sticky" threads in the top of each Forum, as well as read the entire Cadillac Technical Archive up in the black bar ^^^.

You don't need a scanner....it's all built in already. Code info is found in the stickys at the top of these threads ^^^. The INFO UP/DOWN toggle to the right of the DIC shows the status of several messages. Read the owner's manual. Transmission oil life should be at 99% or 100% and never move.
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Well as far as oil usage it'll vary based on the car, some will use a qt every 1500-2k miles, mine uses a qt about every 3k miles. The oil change interval on these are based on an algorithm instead of an arbitrary mileage, I bought mine with the oil life at 89%, changed it at 9% and ran 6200 miles in that time. The key is to use a decent filter, don't buy the cheapest filter you can, WIX or Napa Gold is what I would recommend, for more info on filters read the Knize Oil Filter Study here. When you change the filter I believe you scroll to the line on the DIC that displays oil life then hold the Info Reset button until it resets till 100% and you're ready to go. Far as oil goes some guys use synthetic, some don't, all depends on your preference and whats on sale at the local store when its due for a change.
No set mileage that it comes on at. It's a system that monitors how many times you start the engine, how frequently it idles, stop and go, highway, that kind of stuff. It could come on in 3,000 or 10,000, one never knows. In my honest opinion, I wouldn't base my service on the oil life monitor. To reset the light, you can either use the buttons on the dash that you use to flip through the driver information center, or you can turn the key to the on positon with the engine off and pump the gas pedal all the way to the floor and all the way back up three times in a row within five seconds. Either way works just fine.
ok cool thank everone i always use a wix oil filter
and mobile one full syn 5-30
what about air filtes should i go get a delco or should i get a wix or is somthing better
im thinking since it has 107k on it the first thing im going to do is tranny flush and was thinking of changing the plugs and if wires are not to good do those also
and check the radiator fluid to see how it looks
am i missing anyting other then the oil change ?
If you can't find a radiator fluid change documented in the last year, DO IT! Don't know about the tranny, have to wait for someone with more experience then me on that, one thing I will say is that you're tranny fluid life will almost always say 100% unless you're getting that fluid pretty hot by pulling a trailer. For air filter and plugs I would stick with ACDelco(RockAuto will probably have the best price), other then that pull and post any codes, give it a good cleaning and enjoy!
Your new car has no plug wires. It uses individual coil-on-plug ignition cassettes, one on each cylinder bank. Have your dealer check the GM VIS system to find out if the plugs were changed at the recommended 100,000 miles. They are ACDelco #41-987 Professional Platinum plugs. If you pull the cassettes, no easy job, especially for the rear bank, check the coil/plug connector boots for carbon tracking and sealing ability. There will be some small amount of oil on the lower plug insulators: the wells are sealed by O-rings in the cam covers and tend to weep a bit. Not a problem.

Use a WIX panel air filter, #46302. More surface area = no restriction. You might find that Pennzoil Platinum synthetic (Shell/Pennzoil/Quaker State company) is somewhat less expensive than Mobil 1.

GM is now using DEXRON-VI synthetic transmission fluid, 100% backwards-compatible with DEXRON-III. Have a GM dealer do the service as part of a spring special, along with the coolant, and then you'll have a dealer to fall back on if you feel something is not right. DO NOT do a "tranny flush". Many good reasons for you not to - let a dealer do it correctly. BTW, the 4T80E is a dry sump transmission: there will be no fluid on the dipstick with the engine off. It MUST be checked with the engine hot, running, in P. DO NOT overfill.......and, if you remove the air intake tract to get at the dipstick and then try to start the car, it will not run and will set MAF and mixture failure codes. Look before you leap........

Please, before you begin to tear into an unknown car and its unique requirements, come back and ASK !!!

iowaseville has no plug wires, either.............
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Your new car has no plug wires. It uses individual coil-on-plug ignition cassettes, one on each cylinder bank. Have your dealer check the GM VIS system to find out if the plugs were changed at the recommended 100,000 miles. They are ACDelco #41-987 Professional Platinum plugs. If you pull the cassettes, no easy job, especially for the rear bank, check the coil/plug connector boots for carbon tracking and sealing ability. There will be some small amount of oil on the lower plug insulators: the wells are sealed by O-rings in the cam covers and tend to weep a bit. Not a problem.

Use a WIX panel air filter, #46302. More surface area = no restriction. You might find that Pennzoil Platinum synthetic (Shell/Pennzoil/Quaker State company) is somewhat less expensive than Mobil 1.

GM is now using DEXRON-VI synthetic transmission fluid, 100% backwards-compatible with DEXRON-III. Have a GM dealer do the service as part of a spring special, along with the coolant, and then you'll have a dealer to fall back on if you feel something is not right. DO NOT do a "tranny flush". Many good reasons for you not to - let a dealer do it correctly. BTW, the 4T80E is a dry sump transmission: there will be no fluid on the dipstick with the engine off. It MUST be checked with the engine hot, running, in P. DO NOT overfill.......and, if you remove the air intake tract to get at the dipstick and then try to start the car, it will not run and will set MAF and mixture failure codes. Look before you leap........

Please, before you begin to tear into an unknown car and its unique requirements, come back and ASK !!!

iowaseville has no plug wires, either.............

cool thanks
i use to yous royal purple but mobil 1 is what i switch two
only stuff i really ever liked
I was just wondering this one guy just called me and told me that he has a 1998 Seville STS he owns the lot where i was getting the 2000
this 98 has 75k on it the 2000 has 107k on it
but does the 98 have the same engine as the devilles are those all the same do i want to stay away from that ?

the 98 is a STS the 2000 is a SLS and they are both the same price
SLS uses a 275 hp VIN Y engine with a 3.11:1 final drive. STS uses a 300 hp VIN 9 engine with a 3.71:1 final drive. The hp figures varied a few hp up and down over the model runs, but stay relative. The 2000 engines saw a lot of internal changes to the earlier design, and are generally considered to be better engines, if not rated quite the same.

Stick with the 2000. It is a tad more sedate than the STS, but it will return better gas mileage (highway) and had a statistically better chance of avoiding the head gasket failure of earlier engines.
SLS uses a 275 hp VIN Y engine with a 3.11:1 final drive. STS uses a 300 hp VIN 9 engine with a 3.71:1 final drive. The hp figures varied a few hp up and down over the model runs, but stay relative. The 2000 engines saw a lot of internal changes to the earlier design, and are generally considered to be better engines, if not rated quite the same.

Stick with the 2000. It is a tad more sedate than the STS, but it will return better gas mileage (highway) and had a statistically better chance of avoiding the head gasket failure of earlier engines.
cool thanks that is what im going to do
does anyone have access to a Car Fax acount or any other vehicle history acount that i can pay them to use or that they can help me out and check at vine number for me

1G6KS54Y1YU181326
Try your local Cadillac/GM dealer service desk and ask real nice. Dangle the carrot of future service work.
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