[I'm_macdaddy]

Ok, guys I'm a newbie to this forum, and I am wondering if anyone out there might be able to make a suggestion or two. A family member died recently and left us his 2002 deville, which is just about to turn 100k miles. It's a beauty, and I want to keep the car, but have a few questions; 1.) Is there anything in particular to watch out for in these cars at 100k miles? Everything seems to work fine, except that the service engine soon light is on, and 2.) There is an unexplanable water leak in the trunk. It seems to be coming in on the extreme right side of the trunk compartment, yet all of the weatherstripping looks to be intact and in great shape. The car shows no signs of major repair (which we would have known about anyhow) so this really has me stumped. 3.) And lastly, There was a very minor ticking sound in the engine under light throttle (just above idle) with the tranny in park. Elsewhere in this forum I learned about W.O.T., which apparently is code for "drop the hammer" I tried this last Sunday and the ticking sound is gone. Is this something that is usual, or is the ticking an indicater of a impending future issue with the Northstar? It also cranks over a lot before starting, and occasionally stalls at idle when cold.
I appreciate any suggestions/guidance anyone can give.

 

[powerglide]

:welcome: to the forums!

100k miles means youre probably up for a tuneup if not done already.

This entails new (AC DELCO) plugs and wires, coolant change, oil and filter change. Optional do the egr claening and fuel filter change (do a search for tune up)

Properly mainained these things should get you up to 300K. Make sure the coolant is changed and the proper additive/tabs get added when its done.

Enjoy your ride!

PS Dunno about the ticking sound. To find out why the SES is on get the DTC codes. (press two buttons on the dash, warmer and something else...forgot) anyways, do a search here and youll find out how to get them and to interpret them.

With a little elbow grease and help from the good folks here, you're gonna save a bundle on maintenance.

Congrats on your new ride!

PPS Leak in trunk seems to be common. (do a search again...sorry I'm too lazy to do it for you right now

 

[turbojimmy]

Congrats on your acquisition - I think. I'm not sure what the appropriate sentiment is when you get something because someone died. But I digress....

The trunk leak is pretty common. My '01 does it. What's worse is that it seems to be random. Water comes in the right side but there's really no rhyme or reason as to when it will do it. I think it might have to do with the angle at which it's parked (and thus which way the water runs).

The SES light and the hard starting could be crank sensor(s). The only way to know for sure is to pull the codes. If the light's on then codes are stored. It won't run right until whatever is causing the light to come on is repaired. There are instructions for pulling codes in a sticky here somewhere, but basically you hold the INFO button and the UP arrow ("^") simultaneously for a few seconds. Then follow the instructions using the up and down arrows and the ON/OFF button to make your selections. Let it show all the codes. Write them down and post them back here.

Good luck!

Jim

 

[Ranger]

The "ticking" you heard is likely "cold carbon rap" aka piston slap. It is normal and cured by a dose of WOT. Do a search for it. There is a lot of info on it or go to the top left of this page, click on Technical Archives and read up on "full throttle accelleration". It is not a sign of impending doom. It is caused by carbon build up on the cylinder head (from lack of WOT). The piston contacts it and rocks it on the wrist pin causing the skirt to "slap" the cylinder wall.

 

[STS 310]

Take that thing on the onramp to the highway and give it WOT. You should notice a "puff of smoke". Not to worry, that is the carbon build up. Exercise this Wide Open Thottle a couple times a month( you mite want open it up quite often rite now) How was the car driven before it got to you? Chances are your family member didnt "exercise the Northstar enough.

 

[I'm_macdaddy]

Thanks to everyone who has responded so far. I just took her out on the highway like you suggested, and held 2nd gear up to 70 mph and back down to 50mph a few times....sure sounded sweet. I wonder how much better it would sound with a less restrictive exhaust system.
Recent codes I pulled indicate crankshaft pos. sensors A and B are bad, and I have a code indicating high voltage going to the fuel level gauge. Since this car is outside of warrenty, can anyone tell me what experiences they have had with these, and approximate costs for same???? I appreciate all of your assistance. Hope to get some pics posted soon.

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks to everyone who has responded so far. I just took her out on the highway like you suggested, and held 2nd gear up to 70 mph and back down to 50mph a few times....sure sounded sweet. I wonder how much better it would sound with a less restrictive exhaust system.
Recent codes I pulled indicate crankshaft pos. sensors A and B are bad, and I have a code indicating high voltage going to the fuel level gauge. Since this car is outside of warrenty, can anyone tell me what experiences they have had with these, and approximate costs for same???? I appreciate all of your assistance. Hope to get some pics posted soon.

Not sure about the high voltage to the fuel gauge, but the crank sensors are a common problem. Here is a thread I started on the topic with instructions for replacing them:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34044

GMPARTSDIRECT sells them for $30 each plus about $16 shipping (there is an upper and a lower). Even with the shipping, they're still cheaper than buying them from the dealer unless your dealer gives you 50% off list.

Jim

 

[Elvis]

The following post doesn't offer a solution, but I hope you get a chuckle out of it:

I certainly wouldn't recommend this, but a friend owns a 2000 DeVille with about 115,000 miles, and he says the "service engine light" has been on for about 8,000 miles.

He has more money than God, but he's too tight to do anything about it. He told me that the Caddy dealer wanted $7,000 to make the light go away. He says the car runs fine and he's just going to drive it that way until it dies.

I told him I could make the light go away for $100. He liked my Expedition so he went out and bought one too. But he still drives the DeVille most days because he says it gets better gas mileage. I'm not sure I believe him, if the car needs all that work done, I'll bet they're getting about the same mileage.

I'll also wager that the service department knows about his lack of car sense and fat bank account. $7,000 is just enough to make you think about getting a new one.

It's a pretty car. Burgundy with tan leather. His wife drove it for several years and kept it clean. Too bad the next owner will have to put a new motor in it. That light is on for a reason.

 

[turbojimmy]

you hold the INFO button and the UP arrow ("^") simultaneously for a few seconds.

As you've probably found, the above instructions are incorrect. You hold the "INFO ^" and "ON/OFF" button at the same time.

Jim

 

[I'm_macdaddy]

Yes, I was able to get at the codes Jim...You weren't far off the mark, just a little messing around with it got me there. Thanks for the link above on crank sensor replacement. I may opt to do it myself after the holidays. Did you ever do the "re-learn" of the crankshaft tolerances? Any other feedback on this from anyone who has experience with this? Thanks. -Chris

 

[turbojimmy]

I never did the CKP relearn. A lot of people say they have replaced them without the relearn. The manual says you have to do it, but as long as the installation of the new sensors doesn't cause the PCM to detect what it thinks is a misfire (due to getting slightly different information from the new sensors) then the relearn isn't necessary.

Jim

 

[I'm_macdaddy]

That's great. It seems like the stars are aligning to keep some hard earned greenbacks in my pocket, where they belong, instead of the dealership coffers. I haven't heard from anyone yet that has (or had) the other problem I mentioned; namely the fuel level gauge -it keeps fluctuating up and down between 1/4 tank and full...while adjusting the mileage range at the same time. One of the codes I pulled indicates high voltage going to the fuel level relay circuit. Anyone have any experience with this, and if so...what gives? A quick search of threads came up snake eyes here. Perhaps I should post a thread mentioning this subject.

 

[STS 310]

I haven't heard from anyone yet that has (or had) the other problem I mentioned; namely the fuel level gauge -it keeps fluctuating up and down between 1/4 tank and full....

It has been discussed a few times and it happens to me every now and then. Probably twice in the last year. If you know your guage at least the last time you got out of your car its no biggie. I remember a post saying that someones mother got in to the car, saw the "full" on the guage and proceeded to run that thing dry as a bone and didnt know why.

Sorry I dont remember anything about the R/R, except that the sending unit is acting funny...