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1997 Seville STS
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 1997 STS with 84k miles. I know some of you might think I'm crazy for buying it with a few obvious issues but I have looked at many of these over the past few months and the body on this one is the best I have ever seen; it is absolutely mint and not a spec of rust underneath.

Now for the issues. In each of these cases I was hoping maybe someone can help clue me in to what needs to be fixed, and approximate cost?

1.) When starting cold, it kind of stutters for a bit before it starts; I mean it makes that chug-chug-chug-chug sound for a few seconds before it starts combusting. I don't know if I am describing this right but hopefully you know what I mean. I'm hoping this just means a new starter or something... ? Oddly though, this only happens cold. i.e. when I got gas, and then got back in and started the car (so it had only been off for about five minutes) it started fine.

2.) It says service ride control. But it handles very well. No obvious suspension or alignment issues when driving but again, I'm no mechanic.

3.) It said add washer fluid. I added about half a bottle, message is now gone, but nothing shoots out when I turn the wiper control thing to make it spray.

4.) When I first took it on the highway, a message popped up after a few minutes that said check coolant level (and this one made my heart sink a little) and for a while that message and the ride control one were both showing. However, the temperature gauge never went up very far. It always stayed between the 12:00 mark and the very next mark. I'm hoping that means it wasn't really getting very hot; maybe it just needs coolant added?

I bought some Peak antifreeze the kind that comes in the gold container, and says global, and says it can be used with anything (green, orange, magenta, etc antifreeze) and can be used to top off gm dexcool. I wanted to get dexcool but this was all I could find and I was freaking out about the message. However, when I tried to remove to pressure cap I unscrewed it a little (to use the clock analogy again, you know how the arrows are pointing toward the tube that goes into the coolant tank when its sealed? well, if that is 3:00, I turned it back to 12:00) and it was totally loose like I could jiggle it around, but it would not come UP or OFF! It was the weirdest thing is there some trick to opening these?

Maybe it was fate intervening because after a long time I had to give up, and when I drove the car the message about the coolant did not come up, and the temperature stayed mostly on the 12:00, and only went up a little bit here and there. The check coolant level message has not come up since so I'm thinking it probably isn't a hole somewhere, because wouldn't the coolant have leaked out more as I drove it more?

5.) rear right window does not go down, from either the driver's master control switch or the switch on the door itself.

thanks!!
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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71,152 Posts
I think your surge tank cap actually unscrews two or three turns. (Maybe the pre-2000 is different, though.) Coolant level should be only halfway up in the tank, cold. The temps should always run at 12:00, maybe in traffic (with the A/C off) up to near 1:00, then back down. The cooling fans run when any A/C function is on, so the gauge should never move off 12:00 under those conditions except in hot stop-and-go traffic.

The miss on startup is only one of two things: Improper fuel/air mixtures (many possible causes) or coolant in one or two cylinders. Maybe, just maybe, plugs and wires.

The w/s washer pump may be either disconnected or OOC.

You need to check all the suspension sensor connections at the struts, shocks, and rear level control arm.

Time to remove the r/r door inner panel and check the window regulaor and switches.
 

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1997 Seville STS
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The miss on startup is only one of two things: Improper fuel/air mixtures (many possible causes) or coolant in one or two cylinders. Maybe, just maybe, plugs and wires.

The w/s washer pump may be either disconnected or OOC.
oh man, coolant in cylinders = i'm f---ed right?

what is ooc?

thanks...
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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71,152 Posts
Out Of Commission - inoperative, broken. Military term.

Rule out the coolant in a cylinder by having a radiator shop do a coolant test which checks for combustion gasses in the airspace over the coolant in the surge tank OR have a mechanic do a cylinder leakdown test. A cold idle stumble can be a lot of things, not necessarily bad head gaskets.

BUT, and you're gonna hate me, did you get a deal on the car that was just too good to pass up ???
 

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1992 eldorado. 2007 dodge magnum hemi r/t
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3,013 Posts
When you remove your pressure cap,turn as you are doing,but also push down on it and turn at same time.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
run your codes i have the gm service books for the 97 eldo,deville and seville i can help if u have any codes. also try autozone they have the block test as a loaner tool so its free
 

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2005 White Diamond STS N* 1SF RWD ACC/HUD
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2,061 Posts
See the third sticky at the top of this forum for information on pulling codes.
 

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2010 DTS
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87,585 Posts
Sub, he has the old type cap.

Mizugori, there is a secondary safety catch on the cap. Press down with the palm of your hand while turning it like Creeker said.
 

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1997 Seville STS
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
is it a bad idea to top off with the peak stuff?

thanks for all the input guys...

i got the washer fluid spraying LOL small triumph.
 

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1997 Seville STS
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I got some dexcool today, and I got the cap off by pushing down as suggested, so thanks. however, I can't tell how full it is? I cannot see any kind of markings inside like a fill line as described in the manual... and I'm not sure but it looks like I can see murky liquid not very far down. Shouldn't it be like bright orange or green? maybe it's just because the tank is black, and honestly I'm not even sure if what I'm seeing is the surface of the liquid or a reflection of some kind.

note that the reason im doing this is because earlier while driving a message came up that said check coolant.

advise please? thanks!
 

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1997 Seville STS
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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
here are my codes:

PCM P0603 HISTORY
IPC B1552 HISTORY
ACM B1348 HISTORY
NO SDM CODES
TCS C1255 HISTORY
RSS C1760 CURRENT
PZM B1552 HISTORY
PZM B1558 HISTORY
PZM B1970 HISTORY
PZM B1983 HISTORY
IRC B1740 HISTORY
PFA B2560 HISTORY
NO CCP CODES
MSM B2118 HISTORY
MSM B2119 HISTORY
MSM B2120 HISTORY
MSM B0856 HISTORY
MSM B1983 HISTORY
MSM U1300 HISTORY
NO MMM CODES

what does all of this mean? sorry to ask so much and thanks for all of your help!
 

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1992 eldorado. 2007 dodge magnum hemi r/t
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3,013 Posts
I got some dexcool today, and I got the cap off by pushing down as suggested, so thanks. however, I can't tell how full it is? I cannot see any kind of markings inside like a fill line as described in the manual... and I'm not sure but it looks like I can see murky liquid not very far down. Shouldn't it be like bright orange or green? maybe it's just because the tank is black, and honestly I'm not even sure if what I'm seeing is the surface of the liquid or a reflection of some kind.

note that the reason im doing this is because earlier while driving a message came up that said check coolant.

I have a 97 sts too,when I check my coolant level I use a flashlight to see with,if mine is about 1- 1/2 inches down I consider that to be good,down from the very top edge of filler neck,cant get anymore descriptive than that.
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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87,585 Posts
If you can't see it use a piece of wood as a dipstick. It should actually be about 1/2 full or 2" below the base of the filler neck. I suppose Creekers figure would work as well. It's not critical. Just don't want to be empty and suck air or too full and overflow.

The "murky" appearance is likely from the sealant tabs aka cooling system supplement.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
here are my codes:

PCM P0603 HISTORY
IPC B1552 HISTORY
ACM B1348 HISTORY
NO SDM CODES
TCS C1255 HISTORY
RSS C1760 CURRENT
PZM B1552 HISTORY
PZM B1558 HISTORY
PZM B1970 HISTORY
PZM B1983 HISTORY
IRC B1740 HISTORY
PFA B2560 HISTORY
NO CCP CODES
MSM B2118 HISTORY
MSM B2119 HISTORY
MSM B2120 HISTORY
MSM B0856 HISTORY
MSM B1983 HISTORY
MSM U1300 HISTORY
NO MMM CODES

what does all of this mean? sorry to ask so much and thanks for all of your help!
clear all of the history and see if they come back if so i can look those up. i looked up the only current and its has to do with your suspension here is from the book

C1760-LF position sensor input fault

The CVRSS position sensor provides an analog voltage (0 to 5 volts) to the CVRSS control module which represents the position between the body and wheel. the CVRSS control module provides the sensor with an 8 volt supply. The sensor is also grounded through the CVRSS control module.
 

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Registered
1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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6,405 Posts
1. Enter in Diagnose Mode (press and hold Pass Warmer & A/C OFF)
2. Either allow the code sequence to finish or any time press Fan Speed Down (i.e. NO) and you will be prompted "IPC?" or "PZM?" or ... (depends on the car)
3. Press Fan Speed Up (i.e. YES) to enter in the "IPC" (or what ever menu)
say you are in IPC...
4. You will be prompted "IPC CODES?", press Fan Speed UP (i.e. YES) to enter in the IPC CODES menu. The IPC codes will be enumerated. Wait for the codes to be displayed or at any time press Fan Speed Down (i.e. NO) to skip the IPC codes sequence. At the end of the sequence you will be prompted "IPC CLEAR CODES?". Press Fan Speed UP (i.e. YES) to clear the codes. The codes will be cleared and you will see "IPC CODES CLEARED", and will jump to the next option in the IPC menu (at some point the next option will be the first option and back in a circle).
5. Once the codes are cleared then you need to exit the current menu (IPC in our case) and go to the next one. To exit press OFF (i.e. UP ONE LEVEL).
6. Repeat from step 3 for the next menu.

Keep in mind the following:

Fan Speed UP= "YES"
Fan Speed DOWN = "NO"
OFF = "UP one level"

To exit the Diagnose Menu simply turn off the KEY or if that is not an option press OFF repeatedly untill you get all the lights on the dashboard ON as in the initiation of the diagnose mode. While all lights are ON (for 1-2 seconds) press OFF again and you will exit the Diagnose Menu.
 

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1992 eldorado. 2007 dodge magnum hemi r/t
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3,013 Posts
If you can't see it use a piece of wood as a dipstick. It should actually be about 1/2 full or 2" below the base of the filler neck. I suppose Creekers figure would work as well. It's not critical. Just don't want to be empty and suck air or too full and overflow.

The "murky" appearance is likely from the sealant tabs aka cooling system supplement.
Ranger.thats good to know,for some reason I had it in my head that it was 1.5 inches below top of neck,I haven't had any problems but I will look at it tomorrow,I trust your knowledge and experience more than mine.
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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3,887 Posts
here are my codes:

PCM P0603 HISTORY
IPC B1552 HISTORY
ACM B1348 HISTORY
NO SDM CODES
TCS C1255 HISTORY
RSS C1760 CURRENT
PZM B1552 HISTORY
PZM B1558 HISTORY
PZM B1970 HISTORY
PZM B1983 HISTORY
IRC B1740 HISTORY
PFA B2560 HISTORY
NO CCP CODES
MSM B2118 HISTORY
MSM B2119 HISTORY
MSM B2120 HISTORY
MSM B0856 HISTORY
MSM B1983 HISTORY
MSM U1300 HISTORY
NO MMM CODES

what does all of this mean? sorry to ask so much and thanks for all of your help!
This site helps a lot with codes:
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

P0603 - Control Module Long Term Memory Reset

B1552 - Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
B1348 - Very Low A/C Refrigerant Pressure
C1255 - EBCM Internal Malfunction
C1760 - Left Front Position Sensor Input Fault
B1558 - BCM EPROM Checksum Error
B1970 - Exterior Lamp Power
B1983 - Device Power Circuit Low
B1740 - Driver Seat Front Down Switch Circuit Malfunction
B2560 - RKE Message Validation Error
B2118 - Front Vertical Sensor Failed
B2119 - Lumbar Forward/Aft Sensor Failed
B2120 - Lumbar Up/Down Sensor Failed
B0856 - Battery 2 Out of Range
U1300 - Class 2 Short to Ground

First I would clear them all and see what comes back, as previously stated. I would also recommend that you get the charging system tested though because of the codes I highlighted. Maybe the alternator isn't putting out enough power to support a full load on the electrical system.
 
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