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not anymore 2007 Lexus ES350
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I am sorry ThumperPup. That was out of line. If you are happy, that is all that matters.
i love my caddy i tell you i love her
and even though my dad thinks that with me wanting to find a Mint Condition 03 STS or 02 Eldorado convertible one day he thinks i am making a big mistake planing on finding one of those
because there is a chance i can end up right back in the same situation again
with my luck yeah probably lol

but hey what good is money if you can't spend it you can't take it with you when you go can you ?

my plan is next car will e a Certified still under factory warranty most likely a Buick Lurcenr or Lacross
or a Chrysler 300 as a DailyDriver
then after that ill look for another caddy as a toy
 

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2016 Honda Accord LX. Previous: 2004 Deville, 2000 STS
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3,718 Posts
If I was in ThumperPup's position I would have sold that car a long time ago. At this point it's practically a brand new car! I love my STS, but I sure wouldn't have spent that kind of money on it.
 

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2001 Cadillac Eldorado ETC
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912 Posts
I would like to add this to help our OP get the correct prospective on his endeavor and furure enjoyment on this car he just purchased.

When I was 16 my first car, my pride and joy, was a slightly used 1941 Cadillac model 61 fastback two door sedan. It was originally purchased new by Larry Fisher, of Fisher Body - General Motors, who kept it until around 1958. Then someone bought it, took it to Columbus, Ohio and painted it, and filled the seams between the rear fender and body - looked real shade tree. It ended up in Springfield, Ohio where I bought it for $100.00 in 1963. The car had a three-speed Lasalle box (transmission) that needed a bronze sleeve to prevent it from popping out of gear on a hard acceleration in first gear. I just held the shifter down and that worked.

This car had an guesstimated 350,000 miles on it. It had huge 16" tires (stock was 15"), and it still had that seat covers on the upholstery from when it was new. My friends, my Scouts Adviser, even my mother made fun of me and hated my car. It was a 5,000-pound monster. But, It would do over 100 miles and hour and everything worked. This did impress my Ford and Chevy friends, and this kids at school.

This was a complete car. However, I, being the curious person I was, got a manual from the library, started a collection of tools, and proceeded to remove and replace almost every part on that car. Why - cause I could. Within three months, I was pretty knowledgeable about that car and to this day I can still discuss the 1941 Cadillac with any current owner with considerable technical expertise. And it was because of this car that I became deeply interested in the automobile, the hot rod (built a few), Cadillacs (owned a few) and everything automotive. This interest served me well in the military, and in the past years of car ownership. By the way, the '41 was worn out finally, and went to a junk yard on the west side of town. They rolled it over, pulled the tranny, and crushed the rest. -- I do miss that car!

So, 97EldEtc has a new object of interest. I wish you well, and I hope that you take an interest in finding out how it works. Study it - its is a technologically advanced car for its time. Take it apart - its not that hard. Put it together, and try not to have any parts left over. Improve upon it. And finally, enjoy the heck out of it. Do not worry about resale or investment. This 1997 Cadillac Eldorado will give you enjoyment and an education that can not be purchased - only felt and earned. Someday you will find another car, either from desire, or need, that will again advance your learning regarding cars. Happy Trails. :cloud9:
 

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1997 ETC
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4,929 Posts
My dad would always be working on cars, and forced me to help him on various things, from carburetor rebuilds, engine removals, but hated doing so, it wasn't until i first bought my 92 (4.9) Eldo that i really started to learn about these cars, and now with my 97 i can say it's taught me alot, (Alldata helps lol). So yea, you're 16, and bought a not so typical teenager car, but if she's clean outside and in, keep her, work on her, don't be afraid, let her teach you a few things lol
 

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1997 Eldorado ETC
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490 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Lifer said:
I would like to add this to help our OP get the correct prospective on his endeavor and furure enjoyment on this car he just purchased.

When I was 16 my first car, my pride and joy, was a slightly used 1941 Cadillac model 61 fastback two door sedan. It was originally purchased new by Larry Fisher, of Fisher Body - General Motors, who kept it until around 1958. Then someone bought it, took it to Columbus, Ohio and painted it, and filled the seams between the rear fender and body - looked real shade tree. It ended up in Springfield, Ohio where I bought it for $100.00 in 1963. The car had a three-speed Lasalle box (transmission) that needed a bronze sleeve to prevent it from popping out of gear on a hard acceleration in first gear. I just held the shifter down and that worked.

This car had an guesstimated 350,000 miles on it. It had huge 16" tires (stock was 15"), and it still had that seat covers on the upholstery from when it was new. My friends, my Scouts Adviser, even my mother made fun of me and hated my car. It was a 5,000-pound monster. But, It would do over 100 miles and hour and everything worked. This did impress my Ford and Chevy friends, and this kids at school.

This was a complete car. However, I, being the curious person I was, got a manual from the library, started a collection of tools, and proceeded to remove and replace almost every part on that car. Why - cause I could. Within three months, I was pretty knowledgeable about that car and to this day I can still discuss the 1941 Cadillac with any current owner with considerable technical expertise. And it was because of this car that I became deeply interested in the automobile, the hot rod (built a few), Cadillacs (owned a few) and everything automotive. This interest served me well in the military, and in the past years of car ownership. By the way, the '41 was worn out finally, and went to a junk yard on the west side of town. They rolled it over, pulled the tranny, and crushed the rest. -- I do miss that car!

So, 97EldEtc has a new object of interest. I wish you well, and I hope that you take an interest in finding out how it works. Study it - its is a technologically advanced car for its time. Take it apart - its not that hard. Put it together, and try not to have any parts left over. Improve upon it. And finally, enjoy the heck out of it. Do not worry about resale or investment. This 1997 Cadillac Eldorado will give you enjoyment and an education that can not be purchased - only felt and earned. Someday you will find another car, either from desire, or need, that will again advance your learning regarding cars. Happy Trails. :cloud9:
Well thank you. You make me feel a WHOLE lot better. I appreciate your an everyone else's input. Thank you an happy new year!
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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The reason to purchase a Cadillac and pay $4700 on it is because it has the CVRSS and 300HP NorthStart engine and all the amenities.
Remove the CVRSS (witch is what happened on this particular example) and you loose the Cadillac part of the car, you end up with a regular car that looks like a Cadillac. Just purchase a regular car to begin with and it is far less in ownership costs, you don't save by repairing the Cadillac with the cheapest lowest grade parts possible, you save by not purchasing a Cadillac.

Your aftermarket struts may be in good standing for now but are NOT even close to what the car suppose to be. Also pretty soon when you will have to replace the front struts I am pretty sure you won’t even consider OEM (as anyway the rear is not OEM). And the same for the next parts you will have to replace. 1 year from now the car will be towed into a junkyard.

Again I am thinking at your own good when I ask you if you have the option to return the car?
Have you pulled the codes yet?
Trust me when I am telling you this car IS TROUBLE even before seeing the codes.
If your (family) mechanic does not work regularly on Cadillacs better look for second opinion study/ask around how big of a deal it really is. As for the seller if you were not informed about the rear strut situation it is a BIG deal. The car is way overpriced (you paid twice what it worth).
Don't get me wrong it would have been a great project car for $2500, but for $4700 I would expect an all original (above average shape) 12xK miles car.

B.T.W. The most I spend in 1 year with the car was close to 15K (all bills available) and I have not even touched the engine yet (nor had collisions). So far in the last 6 years of ownership I did spent an amount equal with the original sticker price (not including gas and insurance). You don’t believe me I have a huge envelop full of bills. I enumerated once all parts I changed so far. It is NOT cheap to maintain these cars, but I can tell you I have 170K Miles and absolutely ZERO issues apart from the cracked windshield (hail storm, will replace in spring when there is no more crap on the road to crack it again) and the PRND321 wood trim (has 2 ¼’ cracks in the varnish from the corner of the heated seats buttons to the edge). I am still looking for one (could not find it so far).



Here are some of the parts (and labor) you WILL need in the next year (80% probability considering the mileage):
- WP (if still original) ~$350
- Alternator (rebuilt, new is not available anymore) ~$550
- Most likely one wheel bearing ~$350
- Rear knuckle bushings (aftermarket) ~$300 (at least $200 if you go just with the upper ones)
- Front struts ~$2000
That issue you have with the grille on the dash (you know is not sitting properly) is over $1200 (and is not available anymore), but I am sure you won’t fix it.
Rear struts (+ rebuilt ELC compressor because if you pull the codes I am sure you will find the Exhaust Solenoid Shorted to ground code) $2000.
If your HVAC fan is gone (fairly common) you are looking at another $300.
EBTCM pump motor seized (fairly common) is $1400 new (or $200 used).
Sway bar links $200 (OEM), here you can probably go with Moog (same price or slightly more)
Sway bar bushings ~$100 (or $50 if you do the job).
The driver’s side window will cost $100 at least (if you pay the mechanic).
Torque struts ~$100 (or $50 if you do the job).
If you are in a northern state:
Mufflers ~$250 (Walker, OEM not available anymore).
Catalytic Converter ~$800 (but is not available anymore no matter the price, so I have no clue what to do here).
Fuel tank door (rusts) ~$250 (painted)
Fuel tank filler neck ~$400 + $100 the hose (the parts were discontinued 4 years ago)
In your 2-3 years future:
Fuel pump ~$900
Radiator ~$500
A/C compressor (and A/C system service) ~$800
+ the usual tires (~$500) and brakes (~$600).
 

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not anymore 2007 Lexus ES350
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The reason to purchase a Cadillac and pay $4700 on it is because it has the CVRSS and 300HP NorthStart engine and all the amenities.
Remove the CVRSS (witch is what happened on this particular example) and you loose the Cadillac part of the car, you end up with a regular car that looks like a Cadillac. Just purchase a regular car to begin with and it is far less in ownership costs, you don't save by repairing the Cadillac with the cheapest lowest grade parts possible, you save by not purchasing a Cadillac.
.
I both agree and Disagree with this
but only if what i belive is true
ETC's all came with CVRSS struts at least the 92 or 93-2002 correct ?
and the ESC came with passive struts correct ?
ok if i am correct then if the OP bought and spent the money for a ETC with the Active CVRSS and the 300hp and they ended up getting passive shocks and struts then yes the defeats the purpose on why they bought the car
if the OP didn't know about the active shocks and cvrss then he doesn't defeat why he bought it the OP test drove it and was happy with it
now just because the car does not have the CVRSS oem shocks and struts does not make it just any car with a cadillac body cause the ESC didn't have active shocks or struts correct ?
and so the OP basicaly has a ETC with a ESC suspension
or a ESC with a ETC drive line
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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I both agree and Disagree with this
but only if what i belive is true
ETC's all came with CVRSS struts at least the 92 or 93-2002 correct ?
and the ESC came with passive struts correct ?
ok if i am correct then if the OP bought and spent the money for a ETC with the Active CVRSS and the 300hp and they ended up getting passive shocks and struts then yes the defeats the purpose on why they bought the car
if the OP didn't know about the active shocks and cvrss then he doesn't defeat why he bought it the OP test drove it and was happy with it
now just because the car does not have the CVRSS oem shocks and struts does not make it just any car with a cadillac body cause the ESC didn't have active shocks or struts correct ?
and so the OP basicaly has a ETC with a ESC suspension
or a ESC with a ETC drive line


No, the OP has a ETC with defective (patched) suspension purchased for the price of a ETC with working original suspension.
It has no more CVRSS and Stability System and ICCDL functions. It owns a car that worth $2500. The speed is also limited to 90MPH (not even ESC) but with ETC gas mileage.

It is really a wrong choice for a 16 y.o., you have to chose between car or college (basically your future).
 

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not anymore 2007 Lexus ES350
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No, the OP has a ETC with defective (patched) suspension purchased for the price of a ETC with working original suspension.
It has no more CVRSS and Stability System and ICCDL functions. It owns a car that worth $2500. The speed is also limited to 90MPH (not even ESC) but with ETC gas mileage.

It is really a wrong choice for a 16 y.o., you have to chose between car or college (basically your future).
Maybe i missed it but i thought he had the aftermarket suspension passive suspension with the plug ins that fool the system into thinking that it still has the proper struts and shocks
so would it still be limited to 90mph if it is fooling the system ?
 

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2016 Honda Accord LX. Previous: 2004 Deville, 2000 STS
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3,718 Posts
ThumperPup said:
Maybe i missed it but i thought he had the aftermarket suspension passive suspension with the plug ins that fool the system into thinking that it still has the proper struts and shocks
so would it still be limited to 90mph if it is fooling the system ?
That's what I thought too. He didn't state whether or not he had that message on the dash. If he didn't I wouldn't spend the money to get the shocks replaced if they aren't in bad shape.
 

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1994 Eldorado - 48,500 miles
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66 Posts
Yikes N*, after seeing yours and ThumperPups posts I think you guys must have lemons. My 94 Eldo has gone through a battery, radiator and blower motor in the last year which I attribute to age and sitting. As I stated before I chose not to fix the auto trunk latch and the power antenna more because this is a toy and not my daily driver. My whipple supercharged Mustang GT get s me to work most days.

For the record I do pay my credit card off every month and pay cash for all of my cars so just because I choose to defer some maintenance and many do does not mean I am not a good manager. I just think there is a breaking point related to what must be fixed and what does not. I get your point though...too much deferred maintenance can make things worse and one needs to keep that in mind.

Although I think it is important to give this new member an idea of what type of maintenance he is up against, there is no need to scare him with a list of things or make him feel bad about what he has purchased by telling him to return it if he can. We need to let him know we are here to help and should be glad he is a Caddy owner. Maybe he does not care if the suspension does not work properly. When I was 16, I just wanted something fast and that the girls would like. No girl I knew when I was 16, 17 or 18 cared if that my Nova SS had 350 h.p. But they knew it looked cool. Thus, as long as this young man has a fine looking machine and can keep it on the road that is all that matters!

However, just because a car is expensive and/or a luxury vehicle that does not necessarily mean that it is going to be expensive to own. For the record, I bought my wife a certified used 2001 Lexus RX300 (fully loaded minus the nav) in 2005. When I bought it for her it had 38,000 miles. Now it has 100,500. Since I bought it for her I have replaced two batteries, two tires (another two will be done next month), brakes and one taillight. This car is impeccable and nothing is broken/no maintenance has been deferred because it is her daily driver. In other words there are luxury vehicles out there that do not require tons of maintenance.
 

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1997 Eldorado ETC
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490 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
ryannel2003 said:
That's what I thought too. He didn't state whether or not he had that message on the dash. If he didn't I wouldn't spend the money to get the shocks replaced if they aren't in bad shape.
There is no message on the dash aside service engine. So I am going to get that checked at the mechanic next week. My parents have a mechanic at the college they work at that will hook up the computer code reading gadget for free to see what it is. I got a new battery yesterday and the light went off. Then today while doing some errands it came on again at a stop sign which made my heart jump. It was an old couple that owned it previously so I'm pretty damn sure they took fine care of it. Of course there are a few nicks on the bumper, but anyone can do that.

----------

N*Caddy said:
The reason to purchase a Cadillac and pay $4700 on it is because it has the CVRSS and 300HP NorthStart engine and all the amenities.
Remove the CVRSS (witch is what happened on this particular example) and you loose the Cadillac part of the car, you end up with a regular car that looks like a Cadillac. Just purchase a regular car to begin with and it is far less in ownership costs, you don't save by repairing the Cadillac with the cheapest lowest grade parts possible, you save by not purchasing a Cadillac.

Your aftermarket struts may be in good standing for now but are NOT even close to what the car suppose to be. Also pretty soon when you will have to replace the front struts I am pretty sure you won’t even consider OEM (as anyway the rear is not OEM). And the same for the next parts you will have to replace. 1 year from now the car will be towed into a junkyard.

Again I am thinking at your own good when I ask you if you have the option to return the car?
Have you pulled the codes yet?
Trust me when I am telling you this car IS TROUBLE even before seeing the codes.
If your (family) mechanic does not work regularly on Cadillacs better look for second opinion study/ask around how big of a deal it really is. As for the seller if you were not informed about the rear strut situation it is a BIG deal. The car is way overpriced (you paid twice what it worth).
Don't get me wrong it would have been a great project car for $2500, but for $4700 I would expect an all original (above average shape) 12xK miles car.

B.T.W. The most I spend in 1 year with the car was close to 15K (all bills available) and I have not even touched the engine yet (nor had collisions). So far in the last 6 years of ownership I did spent an amount equal with the original sticker price (not including gas and insurance). You don’t believe me I have a huge envelop full of bills. I enumerated once all parts I changed so far. It is NOT cheap to maintain these cars, but I can tell you I have 170K Miles and absolutely ZERO issues apart from the cracked windshield (hail storm, will replace in spring when there is no more crap on the road to crack it again) and the PRND321 wood trim (has 2 ¼’ cracks in the varnish from the corner of the heated seats buttons to the edge). I am still looking for one (could not find it so far).

Here are some of the parts (and labor) you WILL need in the next year (80% probability considering the mileage):
- WP (if still original) ~$350
- Alternator (rebuilt, new is not available anymore) ~$550
- Most likely one wheel bearing ~$350
- Rear knuckle bushings (aftermarket) ~$300 (at least $200 if you go just with the upper ones)
- Front struts ~$2000
That issue you have with the grille on the dash (you know is not sitting properly) is over $1200 (and is not available anymore), but I am sure you won’t fix it.
Rear struts (+ rebuilt ELC compressor because if you pull the codes I am sure you will find the Exhaust Solenoid Shorted to ground code) $2000.
If your HVAC fan is gone (fairly common) you are looking at another $300.
EBTCM pump motor seized (fairly common) is $1400 new (or $200 used).
Sway bar links $200 (OEM), here you can probably go with Moog (same price or slightly more)
Sway bar bushings ~$100 (or $50 if you do the job).
The driver’s side window will cost $100 at least (if you pay the mechanic).
Torque struts ~$100 (or $50 if you do the job).
If you are in a northern state:
Mufflers ~$250 (Walker, OEM not available anymore).
Catalytic Converter ~$800 (but is not available anymore no matter the price, so I have no clue what to do here).
Fuel tank door (rusts) ~$250 (painted)
Fuel tank filler neck ~$400 + $100 the hose (the parts were discontinued 4 years ago)
In your 2-3 years future:
Fuel pump ~$900
Radiator ~$500
A/C compressor (and A/C system service) ~$800
+ the usual tires (~$500) and brakes (~$600).
Now for all of you DOUBTERS out there, "if you take car of her, she'll take care of you." just because you guys bought lemons, doesn't mean I have one. Old people tend to fix every friggen thing that happens to their possessions and that's what the previous owners of this eldorado did. So it is in fine shape and I expect it to last another 10+ years. DON'T TAKE OUT YOUR AGGRESSION ABOUT YOUR CAR ON ME!
Now
 

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'14 ATS Premium with 3 pedals | Past: '13 ATS Performance & '99 Seville STS
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Hello and welcome to the forums! And congratulations on the new car. These guys are trying to help, and believe it or not, N*caddy is one of the most knowledgeable person on 4th generation Seville and the last generation of Eldos. So if you need help on something about your Eldo, N*Caddy is one of the main people that can help you. So a little respect will be nice!

I normally don't entr to such discussions, but when I read that you have a service engine light on your dash, I couldn't resist from sending this post. Listen! You have paid too much for a car that comes with too many problems. These cars are not cheap to fix! If you think that your mechanic can magically solve any problem of this car at little or no money, unfortunately I should say that you are very wrong. The parts for these car are not cheap, and working on these cars are not easy!

You have been repeatedly asked to post the codes and also describe whether you have the option of returning the car or not. But you are not responding back... So why you have came here and posted this thread in the first place? Do you know that there is no read for a code reader to read the trouble codes stored in the computer? Follow this link and post the codes with their definition.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/138258-how-pull-codes-dtcs.html

And just FYI, replacing a battery doesn't clear you service engine light...There is something wrong with your powertrain and you need to fix the cause.
 

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1997 Eldorado ETC
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490 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
ben.gators said:
Hello and welcome to the forums! And congratulations on the new car. These guys are trying to help, and believe it or not, N*caddy is one of the most knowledgeable person on 4th generation Seville and the last generation of Eldos. So if you need help on something about your Eldo, N*Caddy is one of the main persons that can help you.

I normally don't entr to such discussions, but when I read that you have a service engine light on your dash, I couldn't resist from sending this post. Listen! You have paid too much with a car that comes with too many problems. These cars are not cheap to fix! If you think that your mechanic can magically solve any problem of this car for little or no money, unfortunately I should say that you are very wrong. The parts for these car are not cheap, and working on these cars are not easy! For example, to change a simple gasket or pump you may need to remove and drop tons of parts and systems to replace an small part.

You have been repeatedly asked to post the codes and also describe whether you have the option of returning the car or not. But you are not responding back... So why you have came here and posted this thread in the first place? Do you know that there is no read for a code reader to read the trouble codes stored in the computer? Follow this link and post the codes with their definition.

And just FYI, replacing a battery doesn't clear you service engine light...There is something wrong with your powertrain and you need to fix the cause.
There was no link to click on. And there are. No codes on my dash. And no I can not return the car.
 

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2016 Honda Accord LX. Previous: 2004 Deville, 2000 STS
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The check engine light is an issue. At the top of the main Seville/Eldorado forums there is a link that will allow you to pull the codes. Does the check engine light flash or stay steady? You need to pull the codes in the built on code reader and report back with your findings here.
 

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'14 ATS Premium with 3 pedals | Past: '13 ATS Performance & '99 Seville STS
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There was no link to click on. And there are. No codes on my dash. And no I can not return the car.
Sorry, I just added the link to my post. Here is the link:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/138258-how-pull-codes-dtcs.html

The dash doesn't show the codes. But the codes can turn on the lights on your dash. Definitely there is an error code stored in your computer.
The correct process for reading code is:
1- Clear all of your codes stored in your computer. You can find the instructions in the link I posted.
2- Drive the car for a few miles. In your case, drive until the service engine light comes on.
3- Park the car, read te codes, and post the codes here. Don't forget to write the definition of each code beside the code itself. The definitions are inside the link I posted.
 

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1997 Eldorado ETC
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490 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Sorry, I just added the link to my post. Here is the link:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/138258-how-pull-codes-dtcs.html

The dash doesn't show the codes. But the codes can turn on the lights on your dash. Definitely there is an error code stored in your computer.
The correct process for reading code is:
1- Clear all of your codes stored in your computer. You can find the instructions in the link I posted.
2- Drive the car for a few miles. In your case, drive until the service engine light comes on.
3- Park the car, read te codes, and post the codes here. Don't forget to write the definition of each code beside the code itself. The definitions are inside the link I posted.
IN order:
PCM PO603 HISTORY
PCM P1139 CURRENT
IPC B1552 HISTORRY

NO ACM codes /No SDM codes/No TCS codes/No RSS codes (cant remember what the last words were, sorry)

PZM BO533 HISTORY
PZM B1558 HISTORY

NO IRC CODES/ NO RFA CODES/ NO CCP CODES (cant remember what last words were, sorry)

MSM B2107 HISTORY
MSM B2105 HISTORY
MSM B2103 HISTORY

NO MMM

PCM? (yes it said "PCM ?" then that was it, and i let it stay like that for a minute then turned it of because it seemed like nothing else was going to happen) SERVICE LIGHT IS SOLID BTW
 

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not anymore 2007 Lexus ES350
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IN order:
PCM PO603 HISTORY
PCM P1139 CURRENT
IPC B1552 HISTORRY

NO ACM codes /No SDM codes/No TCS codes/No RSS codes (cant remember what the last words were, sorry)

PZM BO533 HISTORY
PZM B1558 HISTORY

NO IRC CODES/ NO RFA CODES/ NO CCP CODES (cant remember what last words were, sorry)

MSM B2107 HISTORY
MSM B2105 HISTORY
MSM B2103 HISTORY

NO MMM

PCM? (yes it said "PCM ?" then that was it, and i let it stay like that for a minute then turned it of because it seemed like nothing else was going to happen) SERVICE LIGHT IS SOLID BTW
the History codes don't worry about them Clear them and see if they come back
the one that was Current has something to do with a Oxygen Sensor
and that would cause your SES light to come on and in some states keep your car from passing a Emissions or Inspection
 
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