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Just bought - 2019 CTS-V Sport

8.8K views 32 replies 12 participants last post by  5615mike  
#1 ·
I was ready to move up from a 2018 ATS 2.0T, and had asked a salesman at the local Cadillac dealer (who also happens to be a nephew..) to keep an eye open for me. And he came thru - 2019 CTS V-Sport Base. Almost new - it didn't leave the lot as New until April 2020, and was traded back in this last week with just 1240 miles on it. The deal worked for Me, so it's now mine.

Pretty much a "plain" base version, does have the sunroof added. White exterior and the beige interior. They went on and CPO'd it, and with the current offers that means 60 months (from new - 44 months remaining) unlimited miles full bumper to bumper warranty. Should be good :)
 
#4 · (Edited)
WOW, they did change the CPO program. Now it's only an additional year over the factory warranty. Anyone else remember when all your oil changes were covered during the factory warranty and now it's just the first one.

AN ADDITIONAL YEAR OF COVERAGE, WITH NO LIMIT ON MILEAGE
Your 1-year Unlimited Mile Certified Pre-Owned Limited Warranty covers you after your original Bumper-to-Bumper Warranty expires, giving you up to 5 years of coverage.†

My first V sport was a base and my 2nd is a premium and honestly you don't need all that extra stuff if you just want performance and don't care about the back seat passengers. Only thing I really wish the base had was the LCD gauges, and HUD.

Get yourself the Trifecta tune on black friday. $200 off and is simply amazing.

And add some V Sport emblems to the fender. See my profile pic.
 
This post has been deleted
#6 ·
No photos yet - well, just the quickie I changed my Avatar too.. Drove it in the rain last night after I got it home - no chance yet to clean it up and detail it My way. Probably not till this weekend, at least. Then I'll post a couple of shots. I debated on this vs. an ATS-V, decided that I'd rather Not have the different (more expensive) brakes and would rather Have the Aisin-Warner transmission. I'd have taken a premium or a base, whichever came up at the "right " deal. This one came up first.

I expect that at some point I'll swap in the digital gage cluster, none of the other stuff from the premium really appeals to me enough to mess with it. I'd have even preferred to Not have the sunroof (it gets Hot here in Florida..), but whatever. It might get slid back once or twice a year, maybe..

First things first - fix the brake pedal to get the darn thing down to the height it should be (same problem, and solution, as with the ATS..), then play with the alignment to see how much of the tramlining I can get out of it. Then work on using up these POS Pirelli's and swap some better (not run flat..) shoes on. Probably Pilot Sport 4S's - I liked how they worked on the ATS, granted in smaller footprints..
 
#10 ·
I'm aware of another around us - I've seen a Red (Burgundy?), 2017 or newer I think (no wreath around the emblems..) running around the Seminole/Oakhurst area. Couple of times now. Considering how few of these there Are.. I got this one at Sunset down in Bradenton and I believe it is one of just three 2019 V-Sports that went through the store there new, total. This one left the lot there as a new leftover in April of this year, and just came back to them on a trade-in.
 
#13 ·
Beautiful car! Congratulations!!! On reading the description, I wasn't sure but after seeing it, I love the interior as well.
I second the comment on getting the clear bra put on right away. Mine is a daily driver and I do a lot of highway driving. The front of my car looks like it's been sandblasted. Particularly the lower front lights/sidemarkers/turn signals.
 
#15 ·
It's the Highways and track. On city streets your not going fast enough for rocks to chip the paint. I didn't have any chips on my first v sport until my first highway trip of 800 miles at 88 mph the whole way and then it was covered. Don't get me started on a what a track day does to the front end. A friend of mine up north got behind a salt truck on the highway and his cts front end was so chewed up the insurance covered it as road damage and repainted it for him.
 
#17 ·
Yeah. I don't track the car but it's the highways. I'm in sales so I'm on the road a lot and the vast majority of my driving is highway. There's tons of construction going on around here so there's a lot of sand and dirt blowing around on the shoulders.
Winters are also brutal with salt and sand trucks constantly patrolling the highways.
I've been through 2 windshields in the past 2 years and the one I've got on now has 2 repaired cracks. Of all the cars I've driven over the years, this is the second worst windshield I've ever had. Second only to the Chrysler 300C. I think it's the angle being a bit more "upright" so it's less likely to deflect projectiles.
I can't own nice things. HAHA
 
#16 ·
They still chip up, even with "mostly" city driving. The 2018 ATS (Also the white tri-coat) looked like it had been following a gravel truck around it's whole life - after 24k miles and two years - most of which was racked up right here in Pinellas county - the stoplight-to-stoplight grand prix. I Did notice that it seemed to get the most obvious nicks and chips during the rare trips the car got where it was on an Interstate highway - I-4 or I-75.

And it wasn't just the Nose - the Windshield glass looked like it as well. Getting sand-blasted pretty good there, to the point I was starting to wonder how much it would cost to get it replaced.

I hadn't really considered the idea of any clear protection on the front, but it's a good suggestion. Normally I'd just let it do what it does and eventually get the nose repainted, but maybe This time..

Anyhow - I've gotten the most obvious stuff done to the car now - fixing the biggest issues I had with it. #1 was the brake pedal. Same issue and fix as I had with the ATS (probably true of every Alpha platform car that GM makes that Doesn't have a clutch pedal in it) - the brake pedal height. I had modified the pedal itself on the ATS - cut, notch, bend and weld - to get the pedal pad lower and over to the left a bit. Match the height of the gas and dead pedals, center the pad up in the area between the two. When I Did it on that car I did it on a "spare" (boneyard purchase) brake pedal assembly, and swapped it in. And I pulled that assembly back Out of the car - putting the original unmolested one back into it - before I traded it in on This car. Yesterday I swapped that modified pedal into this one. All better. Amazing how a small correction in ergonomics like that can change the whole "feel" of the car, but it does.

And then there was the alignment. Nothing horrible, all within what the book says is acceptable, but.. Tramlining, mostly. So do the usual, string the car and play with the camber gage. Caster is what it is, anyhow.. Just a couple of fairly minor tweaks: The rear wheels, mostly making Sure that the camber was the same on both sides and that the Toe was just ever so slightly Out, and the Same on both sides. Had to fiddle the toe a bit to Get there. The Front wheels - slightly toe In (and I do mean Slight - Maybe a 32nd of an inch total) and even up the camber. Most of the tramlining problem was in the rear, but the L/F camber Was that much (maybe a half degree) from the R/F that it wasn't helping the situation. Fixed.

And it's better. A Lot better. Probably as good as it is going to Get with rubber this wide. As a side benefit of the toe changes the ride is also a bit less harsh and it "rolls out" more freely - the gas mileage is a noticeable bit better. The tires are happier :) And I can live with it, now. I have No plans on ever tracking this car - it's a daily commuter - so having the camber set for best cornering is not a concern. Likewise I'm not Real worried about maximizing the turn-in response, although it Is nice to have the car react to a steering input.. Making it less annoying to Drive on less-than-even/smooth roads is of greater importance.

Good to go. Now to settle in and put some miles on this thing - get it broken in.. coming up on 1400 miles soon :)
 
#18 ·
They still chip up, even with "mostly" city driving. The 2018 ATS (Also the white tri-coat) looked like it had been following a gravel truck around it's whole life - after 24k miles and two years - most of which was racked up right here in Pinellas county - the stoplight-to-stoplight grand prix. I Did notice that it seemed to get the most obvious nicks and chips during the rare trips the car got where it was on an Interstate highway - I-4 or I-75.

And it wasn't just the Nose - the Windshield glass looked like it as well. Getting sand-blasted pretty good there, to the point I was starting to wonder how much it would cost to get it replaced.

I hadn't really considered the idea of any clear protection on the front, but it's a good suggestion. Normally I'd just let it do what it does and eventually get the nose repainted, but maybe This time..

Anyhow - I've gotten the most obvious stuff done to the car now - fixing the biggest issues I had with it. #1 was the brake pedal. Same issue and fix as I had with the ATS (probably true of every Alpha platform car that GM makes that Doesn't have a clutch pedal in it) - the brake pedal height. I had modified the pedal itself on the ATS - cut, notch, bend and weld - to get the pedal pad lower and over to the left a bit. Match the height of the gas and dead pedals, center the pad up in the area between the two. When I Did it on that car I did it on a "spare" (boneyard purchase) brake pedal assembly, and swapped it in. And I pulled that assembly back Out of the car - putting the original unmolested one back into it - before I traded it in on This car. Yesterday I swapped that modified pedal into this one. All better. Amazing how a small correction in ergonomics like that can change the whole "feel" of the car, but it does.

And then there was the alignment. Nothing horrible, all within what the book says is acceptable, but.. Tramlining, mostly. So do the usual, string the car and play with the camber gage. Caster is what it is, anyhow.. Just a couple of fairly minor tweaks: The rear wheels, mostly making Sure that the camber was the same on both sides and that the Toe was just ever so slightly Out, and the Same on both sides. Had to fiddle the toe a bit to Get there. The Front wheels - slightly toe In (and I do mean Slight - Maybe a 32nd of an inch total) and even up the camber. Most of the tramlining problem was in the rear, but the L/F camber Was that much (maybe a half degree) from the R/F that it wasn't helping the situation. Fixed.

And it's better. A Lot better. Probably as good as it is going to Get with rubber this wide. As a side benefit of the toe changes the ride is also a bit less harsh and it "rolls out" more freely - the gas mileage is a noticeable bit better. The tires are happier :) And I can live with it, now. I have No plans on ever tracking this car - it's a daily commuter - so having the camber set for best cornering is not a concern. Likewise I'm not Real worried about maximizing the turn-in response, although it Is nice to have the car react to a steering input.. Making it less annoying to Drive on less-than-even/smooth roads is of greater importance.

Good to go. Now to settle in and put some miles on this thing - get it broken in.. coming up on 1400 miles soon :)
One thing that really helped me reduce the trammeling was to balance out the tire pressures. Factory spec is 33 Front 36 rear, I think? I went with 38-39 at all four corners and it really reduced the car acting like a train on rails. It's also helped balance out the tire wear a little bit.
 
#19 ·
I grew up in southern Vermont and lived a Lot of years in western Massachusetts. A lot of those years were working as a garage mechanic.. Snow and salt are words that do not get mentioned at My house, these days. But I remember.. I have no choice - one corner of my driveway is being held down by my Truck - a '78 K-10 step-side that I bought as a plow rig in Vermont - 27 years ago. If I was still living up there in salt country I would have had a Much harder time convincing myself to buy a car this nice, although I spent 15 of the years up there driving a C4 Corvette. Year round. Snow tires and all..
 
#20 ·
Tire pressures. I'm up to 42 psi all the way around on these Pirelli's right now - I went Up there to try and cure some of the tramlining before I played with the alignment. And they are still there. Other than making the Ride worse they don't seem to mind it - don't appear visually to be over-inflated - and it Did help, some. I may experiment now with letting the pressures down, although the toe changes have improved the harshness to the extent that the higher pressures are not all that bothersome. I'm too cheap to just throw these shoes away before they are worn out (or at least Somewhat worn out) - but they Will go away eventually and I'll put something that isn't R/F on there. I went to Michelin PS-4s's on the ATS and liked them. Might do that again, on this car..
 
#25 ·
Well - I put up with it for as long as I could stand - the Pirelli's are gone. And, as expected, the car is 100% better - all of the "bad behavior" is fixed. Tramlining, seam following and the "steers itself all over the place" - all of that is history. Now it drives like the alignment numbers Should have it driving.

Went with the Michelin PS-4S's. Could not come up with the 275 width rears Anywhere (Might be available in 3-4 weeks, if I had wanted to keep waiting), so went with one step narrower 265's in the back. Mounted up and on the car you can't visually see anything that seems odd - the 265's look fine on the rims and in the wheelwells.

You can add my voice to the crowd saying how the Pirelli run flats are garbage. And I'll add that I hope whoever signed off on putting the things onto Any new car gets the promotion they deserve.
 
#24 ·
Congratulations on your V-Sport! I hope you enjoy it as much as I've enjoyed mine, which has been immensely.

When I bought my '16, I specifically looked for the "base" model. I can't recall which publication it was, but their review recommended the base as it had just about everything you would want without the expense and and frustration of things you don't (the sunroof in my case). The only options it had was the premium paint, rear spoiler, and 19" wheel package.

I recommend using film paint protection film as well. I went with Xpel Ultimate Plus, and I'm very happy with it. With about 63K miles now, including numerous 2K mile trips at speed between Santa Barbara and Sun Valley, ID, & Portland, OR, I can say that it really does a good job protecting your car. I opted to cover the entire front, hood, front fenders, side mirrors, and rocker panels. If were to to it again I'd wrap the doors as well.

The OEM Pirelli Centurato P7 run-flats were crap. Replaced them with Michelin Pilot Super Sports at 30K, and they transformed the car. Just replaced those at 60K with Pilot Sport 4s's and they are fantastic as well.
 
#27 ·
Forgot to mention, but I have had the nose (front bumper cover and headlights only) wrapped. Went with the xPel PPF, and had them install it. Local shop with a couple of stores here in the Tampa Bay area - one happens to be just down the block from where I work - easy choice. Looks fine, if you weren't looking for it you would never know it was there. Time will tell how well it lasts, I guess, but at least the plastic is covered with Something that ought to prevent the paint chipping.
 
#28 ·
Xpel is great. Have that on both cadillacs. Have 3m pro on truck and it's chewed up from just bugs. And we're talking hood and fenders which are 5 foot off the ground. Didn't do bumper because it's chrome. Not 4 inches Iike the Cadillacs that catch every stone. So I only use Xpel now. Btw, Xpel ultra window tint and clear on windshield drastically lowers car Temps. Especially in Houston.

Sent from my SM-F916U using Tapatalk
 
#30 ·
good to read some of what I've noticed on my new to me V-Sport is normal with OEM tires...I wish I could have gotten to the dealership before they replaced all four tires with new OEMs...I've found thus far that the OEM spec PSI on all 4 tires is far better (for me) that the 39 PSI all around the dealership set them at...

Bill