[ssmith100]

Still have some of my old contacts at JL. I had been talking to them about using the Clean sweep in my car but wasn't to happy about having to use the sweep's volume control. Since working on Urbanski's car this weekend I decided to go ahead and order the 500/1 and 300/4 that I'll be using for my V along with the Alumapro sub (free air) for the rear deck. My old rep was kind enough to sell these to me at cost Anyway, we get into a convo about the Clean Sweep and I'm telling him how I don't like the fact that you have to use it's volume control. To make a long story short, after the first of the year and CES JL will be releasing a version II of the Clean Sweep which will eliminate the use of it's volume control. It seems a lot of Clean Sweep customers weren't to happy with having to use the volume control. So, if any of you are looking to to a serious upgrade, you may want to wait a few months for version II.

Shane

 

[Closer_2001]

Still have some of my old contacts at JL. I had been talking to them about using the Clean sweep in my car but wasn't to happy about having to use the sweep's volume control. Since working on Urbanski's car this weekend I decided to go ahead and order the 500/1 and 300/4 that I'll be using for my V along with the Alumapro sub (free air) for the rear deck. My old rep was kind enough to sell these to me at cost Anyway, we get into a convo about the Clean Sweep and I'm telling him how I don't like the fact that you have to use it's volume control. To make a long story short, after the first of the year and CES JL will be releasing a version II of the Clean Sweep which will eliminate the use of it's volume control. It seems a lot of Clean Sweep customers weren't to happy with having to use the volume control. So, if any of you are looking to to a serious upgrade, you may want to wait a few months for version II.

Shane

Shane...are you going to grab speaker level signal to feed the 300/4 and 500/1 ?

 

[ssmith100]

Unfortunately that's the only thing that can be done right now. Until the new Sweep is available I'll just use the front, rear and subwoofer outputs (speaker level) to the amps. Of course the negative to this is the Bose's crossover points and EQ. The Clean Sweep of course will eliminate all that later. Finding a spot for the amps is the tricky part now. I want to mount them underneath the rear deck but it's going to be a close fit. I'll keep everyone posted of the progress. This weekend the car will be getting 80sq feet of second skin and Dynamat in the rear along with fiber fill. To bad the master sound deadening guru (Urbanski) won't be here to help:histeric:

Shane

 

[Closer_2001]

To bad the master sound deadening guru (Urbanski) won't be here to help:histeric:

Shane

Sweats each install with blood and tears... err ... blood anyway.

Concerning the amps...why not make amp rack out of the spare tire void?

 

[ssmith100]

That's what I'm looking at now. I may change to the JL 500/5 amp to run everything and leave a spot open for tire pump, fixaflat, whatever's needed.
This will take a lot less work and should turn out very nice. Just came in for a drink. Heading back out for measurements.

SHane

 

[Closer_2001]

That's what I'm looking at now. I may change to the JL 500/5 amp to run everything and leave a spot open for tire pump, fixaflat, whatever's needed.
This will take a lot less work and should turn out very nice. Just came in for a drink. Heading back out for measurements.

SHane

I was thinking the same thing. When I did the my last big install...5 Channel Amp powering the whole thing. Less wiring, less hassle.

Eclipse>Rockford G600a5>DynAudio Components>Customer 'Glass Box w/ JL10W6

 

[Closer_2001]

Shoot me an email with your contact info when you get a minute...

[email protected]

 

[ssmith100]

Well, after many measurements later it looks like I'm going to mount one amp each on the side wall where the indentions are. They should fit perfect on each side without having to do a buildout board. I'll do the 300/4 on the left side and 500/1 on the right. This way if I decide to do subs in the wheel well I didn't take up much room. Going to try and start this weekend.

SHane

Closure, my email is [email protected] Send me an e-amil and I'll e-mail you back my numbers. THere is an underscore between the two SS's

 

[thebigjimsho]

Awesome news Shane. Thanks! I was liking the use of the rear trunk indents because of the factory vents back there. I may also go with installing the amp in a raised floor between the spare tire well and rear seat. That way I can run some cooling fans, as overkill as that may be for the JLs.

 

[Seattle CTS-V]

I just had a 500/1 mounted under the rear deck on a custom amp rack. The rack is huge in case I want to add another amp to power the speakers. I'm glad you mentioned the new CleanSweep II. I've lost the ability to use the different audio settings built into the stock radio (NORMAL, DRIVER, TALK, etc...). The sub only gets a signal when in NORMAL mode. Do you happen to know the stock BOSE x-over for the sub??

 

[ssmith100]

BigJim,

Yeah, I thought about that also. Golf clubs are my biggest problem right now. My bag has to go in at an angle to fit in the trunk and that keeps me from doing anything behind the seat or raising the floor. I really think mounting the amp over the indentions and doing a small cut out at the bottom of the indention for the wiring is the way to go. Current draw with the 300/4 and 500/1 has me a little concerned but will see.

Seattle,

I would love to see a pic of what they did under your rear shelf. I'm going to be running an Alumapro 10" free air in the factory hole so there is barely clearence for both of the amps to mount on a 1/2 MDF baffle on each side if I wanted. It looks like the biggest problem was how far they would hang down. It's strange that you lose signal when going over to other modes. I have my amp using the Bose's subwoofer speaker outs for the inputs of my JL amp and it works fine. If I had to make a guess on the Bose's crossover point I would say between 100-150 hrtz.

Shane

 

[Seattle CTS-V]

Thanks Shane. I'll try to get a picture of the rack up soon.

 

[ssmith100]

Seattle,

That would be great. I may hold out till I see what they did. No hurry, but sooner the better:yup:

SHane

 

[Mat347]

From my understanding(still have not installed..yet) You can retain every factory function simply by using audio controls LC6 to re-combine the signals AFTER the Bose amp. Using the cleansweeps volume, to me, is a convenience due to the fact I can mount the knob anywhere I want. Someone here in Houston just had someone do a very nice install using a cleansweep. When I asked about functionality, he did not mention loosing anything. I'm assuming version II will simply have the audio converter built in.

 

[SBONES]

the stereo is done all jl audio....only thing is i hear a pop when i turn it down all the way...is there anyone that has this....sounds good, but when u turn it down it has a pop....now when i turn my cleansweep down it goes away...and so does all my power....any input would greatly help...i thought a noise box would help, but no...i sounds like everything is turning off with a pop...

 

[ssmith100]

Sbones,

The Clean Sweep uses a input signal for the turn on if I'm not mistaken. When I had my sub amp hooked up to turn on with the input signal it would pop. What happens is even when you turn the radio off there is still anough signal there to keep the amps or Clean Sweep on. As soon as I would open my door and the radio would actually turn off it would pop. I've got both my amps on a switched key source now and this doesn't happen. Hope that helps. Post some pics of the new install please

Shane

 

[urbanski]

yeah, however ssmith100 did mine i have no pops...
shane...at the in-laws now...everybody is like "what happened to your hands??" lol

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[ctsvett]

I had the pop happen when the system shut off in my old ride (96 impala)... The key to fixing it is a capacitor on the amps...

Reed