[RKTROY]

Here is my jacking setup. I use Safe Jack RennStand jack stands. They are nice because you use the same lift point for the jack and jack stand, are adjustable, and won't be tempted to be lazy and just use the jack without stands. With these, there is no excuse to be unsafe. I have 4 of them so I can lift left, right, front, back or all 4 at once. I screwed pucks to the saddle pads that came with the RennStands and cut off the front ears to clear the rocker panels. The plain "hockey" pucks work fine in front and the aluminum ones work in all 4 corners. I once drove off with the magnetic puck still attached so I put on a Remove Before Flight tag. The plywood ramps were needed when I used to drive a lowered C5 Corvette, but I haven't needed them with the ATS-V. The RennStands came with the Husky tool bag which can hold 2 of them. I shortened the carrying loops on the jack to make it a bit narrower to better clear the jack stands (otherwise you have to have things positioned just so or else you won't be able to attach the legs of the jack stands). I take this whole setup to the track with me when I time trial my ATS-V.

The floor mat is not part of my setup but is in my garage to let me know when I've pulled up to the right spot to clear my saws and still close the garage door. There is a stripe painted on the floor so I know where to position the stop after I've moved it while using the garage as a workshop.

Enjoy.
Blessings.
Roy.

 

[pkincy]

I bought these and they work like a champ.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SPYDFT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought these. First use is Monday when I go to Ceramic Pads. And I have sold my race car and both track cars. I did actively race but in the 90's and early 00's. Today these cars are simply drivers.

I keep thinking about running an HPDE at Auto Club or Buttonwillow but my sane self says running either with a car with only a 3 point when I am used to attacking both with a gutted car with a full cage, race seat, Hans Device, and a halon system would not be the smartest thing I have ever done. Not certain I could tone down the "red mist."

 

[RKTROY]

I keep thinking about running an HPDE at Auto Club or Buttonwillow but my sane self says running either with a car with only a 3 point when I am used to attacking both with a gutted car with a full cage, race seat, Hans Device, and a halon system would not be the smartest thing I have ever done. Not certain I could tone down the "red mist."

Check out aroschpd.org I signed up for the Auto Club Speedway infield event on Dec 8, 9. Being infield only (paper clip, not roval), speeds are down so you don't have to worry about hitting a wall at 140. You should come. Modern cars are so safe with the standard safety equipment (3 points, airbags, crumple zones) I think the risk is minimal. Being a racer I'm sure you are a good driver. Just remember this is a time trial/HPDE event with strict passing rules and have fun (and keep the red mist at bay).

Hope to see you there.
Blessings.
Roy.

 

[wanderer54]

Hey.....I only saw the one picture showing the equipment to lift the car, but I thought I saw four or so JPEG pictures showing the exact lift points but I don't see them now. I am going to change tires on Wednesday, so I would like to see exactly where to place the lift bars on my garage lift so I do not damage anything....Thanks!

 

[jguerdat]

These are what I got from an earlier thread.

 

[wanderer54]

Re: Help and Advice Needed: Removing a Tire From an ATS-V..............Yourself

Hey Guys, Thanks to those of you that shared the very useful, critical and informative pictures for jacking the front
and rear of the ATS-V.....I want to be super careful so as not to damage anything.
Kind Regards.

 

[wanderer54]

Hey Guys,
Thanks to all of you that posted the very useful and informative pictures of how to jack the V without causing damage. Very much appreciated.

 

[pkincy]

I don't know that I agree with jguerdat. That front jacking point is on a pinch weld just under the front door. If you use the tool recommended above it will straddle the pinch weld so that you can put the jack pad under it. Nevertheless be careful if you have raised edges on your floor jack so you aren't lifting on a painted part of the car.

 

[RKTROY]

On my car the front driver's side structure that jguerdat shows is caved in a little from when one of the shops lifted my car from that point. Probably when I had the exhaust system installed. I just use the pinch weld locations when lifting the car myself.
Blessings.
Roy.

 

[NYCadillac]

For those who purchased the ZL1 MagPads, is it necessary to order the MagPuck as well?

 

[rjoffe]

It really depends on your jack. I have them for mine, and they work perfectly with my jack to easily clear the rocker panels.

 

[jguerdat]

I've used the points in the pictures I posted but I don't look for the specific spots identified. I reach under the car and feel for flat metal that the jack can use. I do use a hockey puck so no metal-to-metal contact and have seen/noticed no damage.

 

[jonathan.lee.211]

First time I put my car on my lift I realized what a pain it was to get the car perfectly positioned so I could get the lift pads on the pinchwelds but also to not put any stress on the outer rocker panels. It's a very small window you have to hit to lift the car where GM wants you to without touching anything else. It took me a couple tries to get the car centered on the lift so the arms didn't hit their stops before they were placed where they needed to be. I realized if it took me this long, no way is a dealer tech going to take that long to rack the car properly-- they'll probably just kick the lift pads under the car and go for it if they're "close enough." There's a GM dealer advisory for these cars stating that putting the rack pads in a place that contacts the rocker panels will pop the rocker panel clips and push the rockers upwards on the quarter panel and damage the paint. (You'd think if the car was tricky enough to rack to necessitate a service advisory to avoid body damage, GM would have added easier to access jacking points...) I bought a set of 16-18 Camaro lift pads from ZL1 addons, the ones that attach to the pinchwelds and stay on the car. I did have to slightly enlarge the jacking point cutouts in the factory plastic rockers to get them to fit. The front pads worked as is, but the rear pads needed to be milled slightly to clear the thin chassis bracing on the inside of the pinchweld and also milled a bit for height, but the final result is 4x easy to access lift points that stick down about 1/4" below the rocker panels and are very easy to access.

Did you get the coupe or convertible style in these jack pads?

 

[tta1456]

I used the 16-23 coupe version.

The fronts fit as-is.

Here's a pic of the mods you have to do for the pads in the rear so they fit on the pinchweld but clear the diagonal brace and sit at the correct height, and also have the setscrews facing outwards so you can access them. The pads need to be shortened, the upper protrusion removed on the side facing the diagonal brace, the pinchweld groove cut deeper, and the holes redrilled/retapped lower and on the outside. This way they clear the chassis brace and protrude down the same amount as the front blocks.

Note: I bonded in aluminum shims into the pinchweld groove on the jack blocks to tighten the gap to the pinchweld, and also so that the setscrews tighten against the shims and press the shims against the pinchweld. This way the setscrews don't dig into and damage the paint on the pinchwelds, possibly inviting rust to start. The shim being held on with blue tape is the one that the setscrews push against, they popped off when I removed the blocks from my car so I taped them back on top so I wouldn't lose them.

 

[jbc21240]

These are what I got from an earlier thread.

View attachment 539496

View attachment 539498

View attachment 539500

I used the 16-23 coupe version.

The fronts fit as-is.

Here's a pic of the mods you have to do for the pads in the rear so they fit on the pinchweld but clear the diagonal brace and sit at the correct height, and also have the setscrews facing outwards so you can access them. The pads need to be shortened, the upper protrusion removed on the side facing the diagonal brace, the pinchweld groove cut deeper, and the holes redrilled/retapped lower and on the outside. This way they clear the chassis brace and protrude down the same amount as the front blocks.

Note: I bonded in aluminum shims into the pinchweld groove on the jack blocks to tighten the gap to the pinchweld, and also so that the setscrews tighten against the shims and press the shims against the pinchweld. This way the setscrews don't dig into and damage the paint on the pinchwelds, possibly inviting rust to start. The shim being held on with blue tape is the one that the setscrews push against, they popped off when I removed the blocks from my car so I taped them back on top so I wouldn't lose them.

View attachment 630806


View attachment 630807

These are what I got from an earlier thread.

View attachment 539496

View attachment 539498

View attachment 539500

Where does a garage / dealer place the hoist lift pads? Are the circled locations in your pix the hoist lift points they use?

 

[tta1456]

Where does a garage / dealer place the hoist lift pads? Are the circled locations in your pix the hoist lift points they use?

They're supposed to use flip up pads or pinchweld adapter blocks on the rack and place them on the 4x indicated pinchweld locations in the diagram where there are cutouts in the plastic rocker molding.

If they put them in the wrong spot you can damage the floor or outer rocker panel molding, which was enough of a problem early on after the release of the ATS that GM released a bulletin to dealers to clarify the racking locations because enough dealers had damaged cars to bring it to GM's attention.

It doesn't help that the cutouts in the plastic rocker molding are awfully small and to make things worse the pinchwelds are also recessed above the line of the the rocker molding... many racks don't have pads small enough to contact only the pinchweld without also hitting the plastic rocker molding and damaging it.

I miss the simpler days of older Hondas that had reinforced thicker jacking points on the pinchweld that conspicuously protruded below the rocker panel. Made things a lot easier. Installing the ZL1 add-ons jacking point blocks makes lifting these cars much, much easier.