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So I havnt been on here in a while guys hope every body is doing great. So my 2009 cts went dead .went to get a new battery 2 days later nothing. Changed the altenator the car worked like a champ.thought I'd fixed the problem next morning car is dead.got the battery charger out it charged to 40% went to start it being the impatient me.of course nothing.went back to the charger and it's at %2. So I don't know what could it could be my husband is angry of course and is wanting me to sell it.i love this car so much..it's my first car and being a silly woman I've grown attached to my black beauty.
 

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So I havnt been on here in a while guys hope every body is doing great. So my 2009 cts went dead .went to get a new battery 2 days later nothing. Changed the altenator the car worked like a champ.thought I'd fixed the problem next morning car is dead.got the battery charger out it charged to 40% went to start it being the impatient me.of course nothing.went back to the charger and it's at %2. So I don't know what could it could be my husband is angry of course and is wanting me to sell it.i love this car so much..it's my first car and being a silly woman I've grown attached to my black beauty.
What caused the battery to originally discharge?
Was your new battery sufficiently charged before installation?
What alternator did you purchase to replace your existing unit and was it tested before being condemned?

Not waiting to fully charge a battery before a start attempt will yield poor results.
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI rebuilt to FE3 J55 G80 3.42:1
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So I havnt been on here in a while guys hope every body is doing great. So my 2009 cts went dead .went to get a new battery 2 days later nothing. Changed the altenator the car worked like a champ.thought I'd fixed the problem next morning car is dead.got the battery charger out it charged to 40% went to start it being the impatient me.of course nothing.went back to the charger and it's at %2. So I don't know what could it could be my husband is angry of course and is wanting me to sell it.i love this car so much..it's my first car and being a silly woman I've grown attached to my black beauty.
It's a fantastic car, you're not wrong to want to keep it. Anything you would replace it with as good as the CTS would cost $60K - $80K, new. Or more.

That said, battery/alternator problems are not the hardest thing to deal with, although I understand a dead car is frustrating. Before replacing the alternator, it may have been smart to ask here. We could have told you there is a known weak link inside your original alternator. This can be easily and inexpensively addressed by rebuilding at an auto electric shop, commonly found in any decent-sized city. Did you buy a Chinese alternator from Autozone, or an OEM alternator. Parts-store alternators should never be used.

Batteries are permanently damaged if run down below 10V, this may have happened to yours. A load test can inform you as to the state of your battery and let you know if it has been damaged. Parts stores often have a battery load tester and will check yours for free.

Don't lose hope, your car can be fixed. Do you still have your original alternator?

Edit: If your battery and alternator are tested to be good, you may need to check for a parasitic current drain. This is not the most common problem, so start with the battery/alternator first.
 

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First rule when working on any vehicle is, don't replace a part unless you test it thoroughly and you're sure it has failed. I make minor exceptions for inexpensive parts that wear out over time (radiator caps as one example).

You say you have a new battery. I'd take that battery (out of the car) back to where you got it, have them charge it and test it. It's possible that you got a defective battery.

You replaced the alternator already. Did you have the old (original to the car?) alternator tested? Did it fail? If you still have the original alternator, get it tested, especially if it's a genuine GM part (factory part or service part from the dealership). If it tests good, keep it for when your new alternator fails. If it tests bad, send it to a good auto electrical shop (alternator and starter specialist) and get it repaired. That's much more reliable and more cost effective than replacing it with Chineseum junk from most parts stores.

I'm really skeptical that you have an issue with the charging system (alternator/battery). Your symptoms sound more like a current drain on the battery. Our 2102 2012 CTS has a similar issue that has eluded most of the local independent shops. That was the primary reason the previous owner sold me the car for $1.00.

My temporary work-around was to install a switch on the negative battery terminal ( https://amzn.com/B07MTXXY9M ). When we park it, we open the trunk and turn off the switch, disconnecting the negative cable. When we want to go back out, open the trunk (a bit of a PITA on these cars with the battery disconnected, you have to use the handle behind the armrest in the back seat) and turn on the switch. This isn't a permanent solution, but it gets us by while I deal with more pressing issues with the car (wheels/tires/TPMS, missed maintenance, and some non-functional electrical stuff that may be causing the drain and need to be addressed anyway).

I haven't measured the battery drain yet to get the full amperage of the drain, but it's enough to cause a big spark/arc when we turn the switch to disconnect or reconnect it, probably several amps. A preliminary test with a test light and pulling fuses didn't find the problem. The battery drains to the point where the car won't start after being parked about 3 hours (unless we disconnect the battery). There are several electrical accessories in the car that aren't working (sunroof, one of the power door locks, one of the power seats), and I'm hoping that repairing those items may cure the drain on the battery.

After those are fixed, I plan to measure the drain with a (fused) ammeter, and if the drain is still excessive, I'll start diagnosing the current drain issue. That's a tedious process, though. Basically, the first step is to install an ammeter in the negative battery connection to measure the current flowing from the battery through the entire car (with the engine off). That should be very low, usually less than 50mA, although some cars can be slightly over that. Then you start pulling fuses one at a time and watch the ammeter. When you pull one fuse and the excessive current drain (or part of it) goes away on the meter, whatever is powered by that fuse is drawing excessive current.

Or you can load a few more expensive rounds in the parts cannon, aim it at your car and fire away. That's the expensive way to not fix the problem most of the time. But sometimes you get lucky and actually replace the failed parts that way.

Edits: Fixed date as shown in red.
 

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2009 SRX V6 RWD, 2011 CTS Premium Coupe
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First rule when working on any vehicle is, don't replace a part unless you test it thoroughly and you're sure it has failed. I make minor exceptions for inexpensive parts that wear out over time (radiator caps as one example).

You say you have a new battery. I'd take that battery (out of the car) back to where you got it, have them charge it and test it. It's possible that you got a defective battery.

You replaced the alternator already. Did you have the old (original to the car?) alternator tested? Did it fail? If you still have the original alternator, get it tested, especially if it's a genuine GM part (factory part or service part from the dealership). If it tests good, keep it for when your new alternator fails. If it tests bad, send it to a good auto electrical shop (alternator and starter specialist) and get it repaired. That's much more reliable and more cost effective than replacing it with Chineseum junk from most parts stores.

I'm really skeptical that you have an issue with the charging system (alternator/battery). Your symptoms sound more like a current drain on the battery. Our 2102 CTS has a similar issue that has eluded most of the local independent shops. That was the primary reason the previous owner sold me the car for $1.00.

My temporary work-around was to install a switch on the negative battery terminal ( https://amzn.com/B07MTXXY9M ). When we park it, we open the trunk and turn off the switch, disconnecting the negative cable. When we want to go back out, open the trunk (a bit of a PITA on these cars with the battery disconnected, you have to use the handle behind the armrest in the back seat) and turn on the switch. This isn't a permanent solution, but it gets us by while I deal with more pressing issues with the car (wheels/tires/TPMS, missed maintenance, and some non-functional electrical stuff that may be causing the drain and need to be addressed anyway).

I haven't measured the battery drain yet to get the full amperage of the drain, but it's enough to cause a big spark/arc when we turn the switch to disconnect or reconnect it, probably several amps. A preliminary test with a test light and pulling fuses didn't find the problem. The battery drains to the point where the car won't start after being parked about 3 hours (unless we disconnect the battery). There are several electrical accessories in the car that aren't working (sunroof, one of the power door locks, one of the power seats), and I'm hoping that repairing those items may cure the drain on the battery.

After those are fixed, I plan to measure the drain with a (fused) ammeter, and if the drain is still excessive, I'll start diagnosing the current drain issue. That's a tedious process, though. Basically, the first step is to install an ammeter in the negative battery connection to measure the current flowing from the battery through the entire car (with the engine off). That should be very low, usually less than 50mA, although some cars can be slightly over that. Then you start pulling fuses one at a time and watch the ammeter. When you pull one fuse and the excessive current drain (or part of it) goes away on the meter, whatever is powered by that fuse is drawing excessive current.

Or you can load a few more expensive rounds in the parts cannon, aim it at your car and fire away. That's the expensive way to not fix the problem most of the time. But sometimes you get lucky and actually replace the failed parts that way.
It's neat to know they'll be making the CTS again in the 22nd century. What's the battery range, 900 miles or so? And where'd you find the time machine?
 

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It's neat to know they'll be making the CTS again in the 22nd century. What's the battery range, 900 miles or so? And where'd you find the time machine?
OK. My mistake. It's a 2012, not a 2102.

And I heard that in 2084, they'll start using fusion power to replace the gasoline powered vehicles that still make up more than 80% of the vehicles on the road at that time.
 

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"When we park it, we open the trunk and turn off the switch, disconnecting the negative cable. " and lose all of the presets for seat, radio, and clock plus fuel trims.

Spec is under 50 ma with everything off. 200ma and battery will be ded in a few days. A clamp-on digital DC (cheap ones are AC only) ammeter will tell quickly.

If high drain normal practice is to pull things until it goes away.

2084 fuel will come from water - hydrogen.
 

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2009 SRX V6 RWD, 2011 CTS Premium Coupe
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"When we park it, we open the trunk and turn off the switch, disconnecting the negative cable. " and lose all of the presets for seat, radio, and clock plus fuel trims.

Spec is under 50 ma with everything off. 200ma and battery will be ded in a few days. A clamp-on digital DC (cheap ones are AC only) ammeter will tell quickly.

If high drain normal practice is to pull things until it goes away.

2084 fuel will come from water - hydrogen.
Hydrogen is what everyone should have been working on all this time, not electric. The technology is already fifty years old. No problems with mining, running out of lithium, or overloading the power grid. We cannot possibly use up all the water on this planet.
 
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