The only search result brought me back to this questtion so I'll write up the procedure for anyone needing to do this, all the shop book steps were needed plus additional steps. 1. Remove the front air deflector (push pins and two small bolts) to access the radfiator drain plug to drain coolant. 2. Remove the hood insulator (7 large push pins). 3. Disconnect the windshield washer nozzles (2 electrical connectors, 2 hoses). 4. Using a marker, draw a line on the hood around the hood hinges for reassembly alignment then remove hood (4 bolts and disconnect gas springs at hood end). 5. Remove all three black engine trim panels. 6. Remove the cross vehicle brace (4 bolts, two washers, two nuts). 7. Remove the supercharger beauty cover. 8. Remove the windshield wiper arms (two plastic plugs, two nuts). 9. Remove the air inlet grill and panel in front of windshield (3 screws, 1 nut on brake booster). 10. Remove the wiper arm transmission (2 bolts, 1 electrical connector). 11. Move the small supercharger coolant reservoir away from supercharger. 12. Remove the battery and plastic end panel from firewall (2 nuts, 1 bolt). 13. Remove the brake booster vacuum line from the rear of supercharger and move away. 14. Remove the front supercharger inlet duct (hose clamps, long ball end nuts). 15. Remove the Evap hard plastic formed tube from rear of supercharger and hard metal line (gently push the white clips slightly into on the ends to release). 16. Remove the rear supercharger inlet duct assembly (hose clamp). 17. Pry the large cable clamp push pins away from metal panel that's next to coolant sensor so the cables can be moved some. 18. Now there should be room to work on the sensor located to the passenger side of the rear of the supercharger and down on the block. Remove the electrical connector from the coolant sensor. If the old sensor was installed with the connector release facing down it might be necessary to make two quick tools shown below. 19. (Possible) If the sensor connector cannot be moved away from the sensor or the 19 MM socket cannot fit on the sensor; the large ground cable might be in the way. To remove the ground cable to block bolt, the metal cable holder bracket (that the cable push pins were pried away from) bolt needs to be removed first. The sensor requires a deep well 19 MM socket and that needs to be cut down to fit in the narrow room between the firewall and engine block. It also helps to have a pillow on the supercharger when you are on it trying to work in the sensor area.
Here's the new sensor installed (brass with black plastic). Note the molded in locking tap on the side, if this is facing down then the special tools might be needed to release the connector. The sensor is torqued to 15 ft lbs and that determines where the locking tab ends up.
Here's the old sensor with the connector plugged in, the locking tab is facing down making removal difficult. Note the two bolt heads above the sensor, the top one holds the wire bracket to the block and the bottom one holds the ground wire to the block. In this example both had to be removed for clearance.
Here's a closup of the tools made to remove the old downward facing sensor. The tool on the right is used to keep the connector finger released from the sensor locking tab, it's 0.080 thick aluminum, 1/4" wide and .800" long at the end with the end filed. The tool to the left is sharpened like a chisel to force the connector away from the sensor to unplug it. Both tools are about 20" long. The cut down 19 MM deepwell socket is shown on the bench on it's side.
Here's an overhead view of what was removed. Notice where the small supercharger overflow tank was placed out of the way and the plastic battery side not there on the firewall for more access.
Here are some torque values for reassembly:
Sensor 15 ft lbs (same as the thermostat housing if that is done too)
Engine ground cable near sensor 18 ft lbs
Hood bolts 80 in lbs
Wiper transmission 89 in lbs
Wiper arms 26 ft lbs
Cross vehicle brace 83 ft lbs