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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello again fellow Allantan's.

I introduced myself briefly, the other day, with a post inquiring as to whether or not any of you had upgraded your audio system to modern gps units. Thanks for your feedback.

Thought I'd ask a few more questions and share the progress of things on my "new to me" Allante.


As I had mentioned, the other day, my little red caddy was in the shop getting new calipers and some new brake lines. System was flushed and it all seems to be doing great. (as far as braking goes anyway.

Just had the catalytic converter replaced and have now had an opportunity to put a few miles on the car.

Here's what I've noticed...

1. The car is very sluggish and under powered.
2. The information center shows, when the instantaneous mpg is selected, that I'm getting around 7 or 8 mpg on the highway
3. The car shifts very harshly under heavier acceleration.
4. The pwr window switch on the drivers door seems to have problems. It keeps lowering the passenger window without being depressed.
5. There is a major clunk from up front when the transmission abruptly downshifts.


Here's what I've done or am thinking about the above issues so far...

1. From reading the threads here on the Allante forum, it appears that I may have some injector problems. I'm also thinking it could probably use new plugs and wires.
2. Thought I'd ask the group here if this was an anomalous indication or if it's telling me something else... (like bad injectors, restricted exhaust etc...?)
3. Read here that when one of you replaced some bad injectors this problem was resolved, as it was very underpowered.
4. Looks like I'm gonna either try to refurbish the switches or find some used ones. O' Reilly's has em for somewhere around $600 oir $700!. (heck, that's as much as a good used engine!)
5. Had the mechanic that fixed my brakes, and raised the psngr window for that matter, take a look up front and sure enough, I've got a broken front mount.


It turns out that the fella that's been working on the lil red caddy, was actually a Cadillac tech up in NJ (where he's from) and that he used to work on the Allante quite a bit.



So, if y'all have any thoughts on any of my musings thusfar, please either pm me or fire back here.


Thanks again


Dino
 

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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
a few more questions gang...

1. Am I correct in thinking that my car is a 1990 1/2, because of the fact that it has the motorized locking mechanisms for the front of the tops?

2. Is there an easy way to determine whether or not my car is the Base or the Value model?

3. How do I go about finding out if my car was originally equipped with keyless door and trunk release?

4. The door lock paddles (on the front of the arm rests towards the dash) are very stiff, as are the door lock tumblers. Any recomendations on where and what to lubricate these with?



Thanks again

Look forward to your feedback.


Dino
 

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1926 Model T street rod, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 1999 Corvette.
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6,737 Posts
Please put the year of your car in your profile! Yes, its a 90 1/2. If it is smooth on acceleration but has no power suspect base timing being incorrect (should be 10 to 12 degrees) or a plugged exhaust. Why did you replace the converter? The brake fluid should be changed at 2 year intervals at a minimum. A 90 never had keyless entry. Do you have a factory service manual? If not, get one ASAP.
 

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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your reply carnut.

1. It is smooth under acceleration but anemic as heck.
2. Transmission downshifts VERY Harshly.
3. Got it on the brake fluid.
4. No service manual, will get to looking for one.
5. Replaced the catalytic converter because it had a huge hole in it.


Now more questions...

1. How difficult is it to install aftermarket keyless entry on this car.
2. Ever seen anyone replace the problematic power window switches with ones from another car? I'm wondering if I might me better off simply removing the existing NON-WORKING switches and replacing them with new ones from some other GM or other vehicle?
3. Any recommendations on a good source for a service manual? ebay?

thanks
dino
 

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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I'm also interested in whether or not anyone here has installed an armrest from a 93 model (with cup holders) in their earlier model Allante. Like a 1990.5?

Thanks
 

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1992 Allante Black / Beige
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78 Posts
Dean- I would focus on getting the existing car up and running properly before worrying about issues like on board GPS, keyless entry, etc.
As for the poor performance- 7-8 mpg is bad. There is a on board diagnostics test for the injectors. My experience with bad injectors ('92) is it runs well at start up and then falls off after it warms up. Factory Service Manual (available on EBay- buy the $50 not the $100 unless you want to display it in your trunk at a Car Show) shows you how to perform this test.
Digital Dash? Are you seeing speed fluctuation / discrepancy while driving? This is an indication of bad injectors.
As for the harsh shifting- there are 3 motor mounts- left and right and the dog bone on top and 2 on the trans axle- left and right. All of these will contribute to the harsh shifting.
You're in luck that you have a Caddy trained Allante mechanic. I have to loan my FSM to my guy on occasions...even though he is pretty sharp!
Michael

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As for the switches, if you are not electrically inclined, there are services on EBay that with rebuild them for you- exchange. No need to shoe horn one from a 92 Datsun- or a 2012 Lexus.
Get familiar with: www.alantesource.com. You can always call them and they are a wealth of knowledge...and replacement parts!

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Sorry, won't let me edit. www.allantesource.com
 

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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Snocat,

thanks for responding.

Obviously I'm going to get the car running properly before I spend any time or effort on the radio. After all, it would make no sense at all to have onboard gps and new speakers if the car won't get out of the drive.

Just a point of clarification, for future responses. I have over 25 years experience in the car business, having managed several of them. I'm also the son of a master mechanic. I've lost count on how many vehicles I've rebuilt engines and transmissions on with my dad growing up.
So, although I know my way around a car and a tool box, it doesn't mean that I have any specific experience working on Allante's, even though I've had 2 or 3 of them as demo's.


As I stated in an earlier post. The front motor mount is broken and will be replaced this week. The harsh downshift was identified by some other owner as being resolved once he replace several bad fuel injectors. As for the poor acceleration. Upon further investigation, it appears as thought my problem could very well be a partially blocked muffler.
I'll have this looked at this week as well.

As for the shoehorning in a mazda power window switch....

I worked on electronics when I was in the Navy. I'm not unfamiliar with replacing electronic components. My reason for asking about alternatives was simply one of common sense with $. Meaning I find it ridiculous to spend $400 or $500 replacing my power window switches when I can replace the switches on both sides for less than $100. And my thinking was, heck if I thought of this, most certainly someone else has thought the same thing and already done it.
 

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1992 Allante Black / Beige
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78 Posts
Dean- Thanks for the Bio. Hope I didn't offend you.
Attached are the instructions for doing an Injector Test.
I had three different injectors fail before I replaced them all with a matched set. None of them caused rough shifting of the transmission.
Hope this helps.

Once again this site will not let me upload the attachments. If you send me a PM with your email address I'll send them to you.
 

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1926 Model T street rod, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 1999 Corvette.
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6,737 Posts
It's my belief that once you fix the lack of power, the trans will shift normally. Regarding the arm rest, yes it will fit. Regarding window switches; take them apart and clean the contacts first, ZERO dollars!
 

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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
No offense at all sir.

Besides being on fb, mainly to see pictures of all of my nieces and nephews, I'm only on one other forum to any great degree. It's an airplane owners and pilots site. Been there for about 7 years now. When I joined that site I was the 650th member, now there are over 30,000.

All of that to say this. I think I should have been more clear in my introduction here at the Caddy site. It's not that I didn't want any opinions, I was looking mainly for more "nuts n bolts, been there done that" type of feedback. I wanna avoid the "gotcha's" if at all possible.

And to be clear, I'm not looking to restore this thing to Concours condition. It's a nice car with both tops, 2 owner and it has 91K miles. I live in a golf community and wanted to have a drop top that was capable of hauling me, a buddy, and both sets of clubs. :)
The Allante fit the bill.

So, thank you very much for your feedback, I'll get a pm out to you today.


Take care

Dino

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Thanks Carnut. Exactly the kind of feedback I'm looking for.

It is my plan to turn my lil red caddy into a daily driver. I only have about a 3.5 to 4 mile commute in the mornings, so I think it'll do just fine. But here's the list of things on the knock list before It gets there.

1. Replace front motor mount... This'll happen Wednesday
2. Troubleshoot the power problem... a) I think it's my muffler, it's bent up and looks as if it may be restricted, sounds like it too. b) check injectors c) check timing to ensure it's at 10 to 12 degrees as suggested here.
3. Replace fuel tank... Car had less than half a tank when I bought it. After getting the catalytic converter replaced I topped er off and added fuel injector cleaner. It was then that i discovered that it is rusted along the seam of the top and bottom halves and is dripping gas.
4. Power window switches... I had the technician unplug the pass side switch, apply 12 v to the window motor and it works just fine. Had him leave it up and disconnect power. Didn't want it rolling down again and possible getting rain in it. I'll take the switches apart and see how they look. One thing I've noticed though, is that they feel really "flat". What I mean is that they have very little to know "spring" in em at all. Don't seem to want to return to a "neutral" position, once released from a depressed position.
5. Door locks... Both the "paddles" at the end of the armrests and the key cylinders are very very stiff when locking or unlocking the doors. Almost as if there were old gummy sticky grease binding em up or something. Would appreciate any maintenance / servicing tips on these!
6. Rear top pull down motor... Doesn't appear to be working. Need to troubleshoot it a bit and see if it's a connection or simply inop. Any suggestions on diagnosing this would be appreciated.
7. Front right pull down motor... "ditto"
8. Air Condition... It seems to work fine when the engine is at speeds above idle. When Idling, it doesn't blow cold. I'll readily admit that I'm no A/C expert and can't even tell you if the thing has been upgraded to the R134a stuff or not. I'd appreciate feedback on this as well. If it's simply low on freon (regardless of the type) my first inclination would be to simply top er off.
9. Replace the Soft Top... It has a 3" tear on the drivers side. Again, not looking to make this a factory new car, but do want it to look good. Any suggestions on the most economical way to replace the top. I'm seeing them from $300 to $900 online, and this obviously doesn't include the labor to replace it.
10. Emergency brake cables... They all seem to be worn and rusty. The repair shop wanted to charge me $650 parts and labor to replace. I held off for now. Looks like I can gets the parts for less that $60 or so. How long does this take to replace?
11. Replace the Audio system... The Radio appears to be working, it's just when I turn it up, all I hear is a faint high pitch static / squeal. I've found a nice modern unit to go into the stack that has gps, cd, mp3, dvd, usb, bluetooth, etc... for less than $300. The Speakers can be replaced for less than $150. This will enable me to use my iphone's itunes without an fm modulator.
12. Install cup holders under the radio... There'll be plenty of room for one of the aftermarket din style cup holders that pops open and has 2 holders built in. It looks like it'll be a clean install. When I get through with it, should look like it's factory.
13. Install keyless entry... You can buy the entire kit for $30 or so on ebay, including the actuators to unlock the doors. Trying to find one that also has the trunk release as well.
14. Replace center console's armrest with one from a 93 model. One that has cup holders. (I know, I know, lots a cup holders right? Yes! :), can never have enough!)
15. Replace the glass the rear view mirror. The silver is starting to turn loose.
16. New carpeted mats... (no explanation necessary :p )

And that should just about do it. :)

Looking forward to any feedback on suggestions on how best to accomplish all of this.


Thanks guys.

Dino
 

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1926 Model T street rod, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 1999 Corvette.
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6,737 Posts
Regarding the A/C, if it has large caps on the fittings and they're red and blue, its been converted to r134. The lock linkages within the doors have threaded rods to push/ pull the paddles. Most times the threaded rod gets tangled up in the wiring harness' going to the window switches. Requires door panel removal and some talent to get everything aligned and lubed. Regarding window switches, if the driver door switch is dirty, the right one wont get power. My top replacement was a Robbins brand. Because mine was fully insured, I got it covered under my comp policy as vandalism (someone sliced my top ) . The top tears because of improper stacking when the top is lowered. The fabric needs to be pushed in away from the folding bows as its lowered. I replaced my mirror with an auto dimming one from a newer Cadillac. A simple two wire hook up. Regarding park brake cables, I find it hard to believe they're worn out. Rusty, yes. The rear brake calipers fail because of non use of the parking brake and can prevent parking brake operation. The parking brake MUST be used each time the car is parked. That way the pistons within the caliper adjust (rotate) for normal pad wear. Not used, the pistons seize within the caliper and do not provide normal brake operation. That could be part of your brake warning light issue as well. Keyless entry; you already have actuators in the doors and trunk, so find a stereo shop to install a simple keyless entry module and remotes. Fix the door lock stiffness first though.
 

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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks carnut.
I had the rear calipers replaced. Sounds as if the problem was caused by the ebrake being inop. The cable that goes across the rear of the car to the right caliper is worn. The insulation has been worn off and the ribbing is showing. Not to mention the fact that there is plenty of corrosion on them. How big of a deal is this to replace? Probably should replace all of the ebrake cables at once?

I'll check the AC fittings.

I'll pop the door panels off this evening and have a look


Dino
 

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1992 Allante Black / Beige
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78 Posts
Dino- Regarding 6 & 7 above- go to www.allantesource.com and they have a full description including troubleshooting under the title "Pull Down Motors". It covers front and rear.
Regarding 11- it sounds like the amps on your speakers are blown. More correctly, the capacitors fail. Allante Source also covers this in the "Bose Speakers" section.
Good Luck-
 

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1990 Red Allante (parts car), 1991 Pearl White Allante
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7 Posts
dean6041 said:
Thank you very much
Dino,

I've owned 13 Allantes over the years including one of every year. I'm selling my black '89 with 109k miles that still runs well, looks nice and everything works. Priced very reasonably. I live in Indiana. Collectively the repairs to your Allante are going to be very expensive especially if you're paying for the labor. Buy mine for less than $3600.

Take care,

Scott
 

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Cadillac 93 montana blue Allante
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43 Posts
I have sold over 100 93 Allante center console armrests with cupholder. Contact me with year and color if you would like one.
 

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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
1990.5

Black


thanks

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Wow, can't believe how fast time flies. Summer's buzzin by.

Update on my Allante Adventure.

Because of work and work related travel, not to mention the technician being gone for 1 week on vacation, I just now got my lil red caddy back from having the motor mount replaced, the fuel tank replaced (not to mention a couple of new fuel lines) and a new muffler.

I was hoping that when I picked it up from the muffler shop that it would be a whole lot zippier...

It wasn't. Pretty much the same. Very, very underpowered, and still downshifts very harshly, when under acceleration.


They hooked up something wrong on the fuel sending unit during the tank swap and I am taking it back Monday (reads full all the time).

I have essentially a new exhaust system, therefore no blockage issues there.

The car accelerates smoothly and doesn't "cut out" at all when idling or driving.

The air filter is clean and all of the lines to the air box and from it are free of any obstructions.

They are going to check the timing for me on Monday (as was suggested here earlier on) to ensure that it is set at the 10 or 12 degrees of advance.

If it is currently set up properly, is there anything else that could cause this besides the fuel injectors? And if the injectors were not working properly, wouldn't it "miss" and "stumble, cut out"?


Look forward to ya'lls thoughts


Dino
 

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1990.5 Allante
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Just a quick update on my problems with a lack of power...

Turns out that the timing was fine, as were the plugs and wires.

A Fuel Injector Fuse had blown.


Fuse replaced and the little red caddy runs just fine.


Thanks again to those that took the time to respond.



Dino
 

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With the fuel injector fuse blown, I'm surprised it would run or idle at all. Usually even just one bad injector causes an idle problem.
 
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