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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guy!

First post on this forum, and I had a question about my 2015 vsport. I had posted before on the ct svow ners forum, and they pointed me here for questions with my 4 door vsport. its a 2015 V6TT and I need to remove the intake manifold cause a bolt snapped. My buddy has a machine shop and were gonna get it out that way. Looks pretty straight forward, but before I start taking it apart is there anything I should know? Also once it comes of can I reuse the gasket, or do I replace it? Just curious if theres anything to note before taking it apart. I always try and have info before taking apart newer cars.

Thanks!
 

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2015 V-Sport
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575 Posts
From my high school Auto Shop classes, I was told to always replace a gasket once taken apart. Not sure about any other advice for your project. Good luck.
 

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2014 CTS Vsport
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I’ve had my intake manifold off and as I recall all the gaskets looked good enough that you would be tempted to reuse them. They are all made of a molded rubber and do not require any sealant. Even so it’s a very bad policy to not replace every gasket. The level of effort to diagnose and repair a problem as a result of a bad gasket is way too high. Remember you also have to takeoff the intercooler to get to the intake manifold. There’s six individual intake port gaskets, one big gasket for the intercooler and then I believe 2 tubular type gaskets that fit around a couple of bolts. I was having a hard time trying to figure out the correct aftermarket replacement gaskets so I just ordered them from the Cadillac dealer and they took at least a week to get the parts And I know it was well over $100 for everything.
 

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I tend to agree. When messing around with a piece of equipment like this, it's best not to try and save $100 by taking a shortcut. It has the potential to cost you a lot more in the near future.
I've been through trying to diagnose a problem that wound up being a cheap gasket and I was ready to push that car off a cliff.
Pay now or pay later.
 

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One of the hassles with this job is that you have to replace the coolant in the intercooler. There’s a pretty good set of instructions by Tapout Tuning on their website for the ATS-V LF4 engine. It applies I think identically to our engine. Remember you also need the proper torque down sequence and torque specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the responses guys, I really appreciate it!

I just want to make sure I do it right, and will replace whats needed in the process. This one broken bolt sure made my life hell, and now I just want to find the right instructions and best advice to get this thing back on the road. To get that bolt out I need to get that manifold cover off the car completely, could somebody give me a breakest rundown on what I need to do and what not to do? I don't want to do more than I have to, and I also want to make sure I do exactly what needs to happen to do it properly. So far I taped the intake bolts so nothing could get it, and located the bolts that are holding it on. Once I know what to do about the getting components out of the way I can get the broken bolt removed.

Here I found an animation of the motor, and it helped understand it a little bit better. The cover itself doesn't look to bad to get off, its just this part circled in red that made me stop and ask before getting into it further. This need to come off, and I just want to make sure I do it correctly. Once everything is out of the way and off, I can get it machined then will need to reassemble properly as well. If it needs to be drained and refilled I want to make sure I do that properly as well. How would you guys reccomend I do it?

582262


 

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I could be more helpful if I knew exactly which bolt you’re trying to get to. The item that you have circled in red is a water manifold. It is bolted to the large machined aluminum piece that sits on top of and in the center of the engine.. That’s called the charge air cooler (CAC). It is the CAC that contains coolant. Each side of the CAC has a little radiator where the coolant cools down the charged air, that is to say the air that’s being forced in from the turbo chargers.Below the CAC is the intake manifold and the throttlebody. It sounds as though you just need to deal with the CAC. With what I can tell you’d be best off disconnecting the 2 rubber water hoses that run into the water manifold ( be aware that you will have coolant draining down into the engine from the CAC and hoses). Then disconnect an electrical connector that’s on the back of the CAC ( it can be hard to get to), then on each of the left and right side of the CAC disconnect the two large metal tubes that bolt to the CAC. Each tube has two bolts and of course each has a gasket which I tend to reuse. Then remove all the bolts that go down through the CAC (I don’t know how many they are, maybe a dozen or so) then lift off the CAC with the water manifold still attached to it.
At that point you’ll be able to see the intake manifold.
On the front of the CAC is a cylindrical, rotating coolant refill port which has a Schrader type valve in it. After reassembling the CAC you will depress that valve abd pour coolant through it to refill those two little radiators that are in the CAC. Of course the valve sits lower than the radiators so in order to get a proper fill you need to cycle the CAC coolant pump. This is where it’s helpful to look at the instructions provided by Tapout Tuning on their website for refilling the CAC .
Keep asking questions eventually you’ll have enough information and confidence to get the job done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I could be more helpful if I knew exactly which bolt you’re trying to get to. The item that you have circled in red is a water manifold. It is bolted to the large machined aluminum piece that sits on top of and in the center of the engine.. That’s called the charge air cooler (CAC). It is the CAC that contains coolant. Each side of the CAC has a little radiator where the coolant cools down the charged air, that is to say the air that’s being forced in from the turbo chargers.Below the CAC is the intake manifold and the throttlebody. It sounds as though you just need to deal with the CAC. With what I can tell you’d be best off disconnecting the 2 rubber water hoses that run into the water manifold ( be aware that you will have coolant draining down into the engine from the CAC and hoses). Then disconnect an electrical connector that’s on the back of the CAC ( it can be hard to get to), then on each of the left and right side of the CAC disconnect the two large metal tubes that bolt to the CAC. Each tube has two bolts and of course each has a gasket which I tend to reuse. Then remove all the bolts that go down through the CAC (I don’t know how many they are, maybe a dozen or so) then lift off the CAC with the water manifold still attached to it.
At that point you’ll be able to see the intake manifold.
On the front of the CAC is a cylindrical, rotating coolant refill port which has a Schrader type valve in it. After reassembling the CAC you will depress that valve abd pour coolant through it to refill those two little radiators that are in the CAC. Of course the valve sits lower than the radiators so in order to get a proper fill you need to cycle the CAC coolant pump. This is where it’s helpful to look at the instructions provided by Tapout Tuning on their website for refilling the CAC .
Keep asking questions eventually you’ll have enough information and confidence to get the job done.
Hi sorry for the late reply.

The bolt that snapped was the first bolt on the driver side where the intake pipe from the turbo meets the manifold. Front bolt, the rear bolt is fine, but when I tried to extract it the broken bolt, the extractor broke, then I got a rescue bit and got the tap out of the way. I used a centering drill bit to start the hole closer to center (but not completely center still due to how the first hole started) and got a new extractor in but cant get it loose. The extractor was making contact on the side of the manifold, so not only getting the bolt but making contact with the side manifold. It is in it now, and I cant get it to budge.

My buddy from the machine shop said I could try and get the tap loose and drill it out one size bigger, and drill to a depth not quite the length of the broken bolt inside the manifold (so metal shavings dont get inside) and tap threads into that and use a bolt one size larger, and the bolt just wouldnt go all the way through like oem, but would keep the pipe in place and not leak and not throw an evap code.

I had already loosened some of the bolts in preparation to just remove the thing before realizing the water manifold issue. Now that alone has opened a whole new set of procedures and new tasks required to get other things done for other tasks, and now I just dont know which to do to just get this thing back on the road. It is stock, it doesnt have performance mods but does get driven and baby'ed. I also have access to alldata, but since my friends arent at work I have no way to get detailed procedures including the torque specs and order to put the bolts back in I loosened.

I know this plan I described isnt the best outcome, but without doing all else required to pull the manifold is this something worth doing? It's not a part with that much torque, and doesn't take much to hold that pipe to the manifold... My problem is the fact I have never cut corners, and even if it could work theoretically I would be so disappointed doing it this way...I had a minute to check this and I am going to search for the tapout tuning write up later tonight.
 

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Tough spot, so close to being able to take care of it the relatively easy way.
You can get your own subscription to alldataDIY for around $15 for one year. It’s worth doing it even if you didn’t have this problem. The attached photo shows the torque down sequence, they all go in at 89 inch pounds.
I would try to resolve the problem without taking anything off. It sounds like you can drive the car around to a hot rod shop, and hope you find the right one, and ask them to take care of it without removing the cover. You might be surprised at how easy it is for an experienced pro with the right tools to take care of this problem. Even just that one bolt holding the charger cooler tube to the manifold should be enough to do some daily driving. You may get a DTC about low boost but at this point who cares, I don’t think you’re going to cause any damage to the engine.
 

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Thank you!! Do you know the specs from the turbo to pipe to the side of the manifold? I havent looked into the alldata plan, but I'm glad you told me about it. After this I may wait until I start a new project before getting it unless I get deeper into this car but it's all up in the air still
 

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For the inlet pipe I’ve seen both 80 and 89 pound inch. Like the charge air cooler cover bolts it’s not much.
Good luck.
 
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