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Discussion Starter #1
I am seeing a lot of these intake air resistor mods out there for just about every car you can think of.. And of course, i'm wondering if they will do any good on the cadillac (STS to be exact) .. I've heard people use them on mustangs and such and basically it fools the computer into thinking the incoming air temp is really low like 10 or 20 degrees and it dumps more fuel and advances the timing for you.. sounds like a good mod to me if you always run high octane gas and it should give a little more power however i don't know if the system on the cadillac works the same as other cars (we all know how cadillac and their computers are..))

Has anyone tried one of these or this type of modification in general (since no computer mods exist yet:/)
 

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foo said:
I am seeing a lot of these intake air resistor mods out there for just about every car you can think of.. And of course, i'm wondering if they will do any good on the cadillac (STS to be exact) .. I've heard people use them on mustangs and such and basically it fools the computer into thinking the incoming air temp is really low like 10 or 20 degrees and it dumps more fuel and advances the timing for you.. sounds like a good mod to me if you always run high octane gas and it should give a little more power however i don't know if the system on the cadillac works the same as other cars (we all know how cadillac and their computers are..))

Has anyone tried one of these or this type of modification in general (since no computer mods exist yet:/)
I bought one on ebay for $15 and it sucked. Finished my gas faster and did not help performance. It may have been a crappy mod but stay away from those. The way I see it is, if something so small and cheap could add so much power, the cars would come that way from the factory. Plus, computerized cars are really sensitive and the risk of long term effects are pretty high. If you ask me, I say no. I am sure some of the other members will be adding to this thread........Katshot?
 

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They are good for maybe 0.5 - 1 hp. If you think you really want it, go to radioshack and buy a $0.30 resistor and splice it in the wire. Does the same thing, for $20 less. Next time you see one of those on ebay, or anywhere for sale, ask to see the dyno results. Guarantee you won't get any, and if you do, I would love to see them.
 

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Worthless.......!!!!

You could get definitely more than 1hp for $20....... Hell, I hear the new Type R stickers are up to 35hp.......
 

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foo said:
I am seeing a lot of these intake air resistor mods out there for just about every car you can think of.. And of course, i'm wondering if they will do any good on the cadillac (STS to be exact) .. I've heard people use them on mustangs and such and basically it fools the computer into thinking the incoming air temp is really low like 10 or 20 degrees and it dumps more fuel and advances the timing for you.. sounds like a good mod to me if you always run high octane gas and it should give a little more power however i don't know if the system on the cadillac works the same as other cars (we all know how cadillac and their computers are..))

Has anyone tried one of these or this type of modification in general (since no computer mods exist yet:/)

Those sensors change the timing in your engine to make it more power. But since its a caddy the computers relize whats going on and just put it back to where it was don't do it
 

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The only thing it may help is midrange power, since at WOT the engine is at full timing advance and full rich......
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HEhe.. thanks guys.. that's what i thought but i just wanted to see if anyone else shared that idea. So what else caN i do besides nitrous? I want to do everything i can before i go that route :)
There must be something.. maybe ill try porting the TB and adapter .. should go well with my intake i made :>
 

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foo said:
HEhe.. thanks guys.. that's what i thought but i just wanted to see if anyone else shared that idea. So what else caN i do besides nitrous? I want to do everything i can before i go that route :)
There must be something.. maybe ill try porting the TB and adapter .. should go well with my intake i made :>
Well stickers give at least 15HP and the type R stickers are 35HP.

go with exhaust, chip, intake, that should be good enough to get you where you want to be
 

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I agree....... And that is about all your low budget stuff also.......
 

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Discussion Starter #10
no chips or computer mods available for 1999 :/
wish there was hehe
im doing exhaust, intake (including porting the TB), plugs, wires
and scrounging for computer mods :)
Next will do the transmission and get a new converter.. reducing the amount of loss the transmission takes from the engine will make a decent difference too.. next will be ported heads and stuff but that's kinda way later :)
 

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The last car I fixed up was a honda civic............I'll never do that again. But are there "headers" for caddies? Intake, exhaust, and chip are not really that big of a deal when your enging already pushes out 275 horses, no? And isn't the exhaust only effective if you get new wider piping? So all that money for parts and the labor for the exhaust and you get like 10-15 horses right? Please correct me if I am wrong. I would love to make my concours even more powerfull -but NOTICEABLY powerfull, not just "bragging rights" powerfull.
 

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i dont know how the resistor didnt work for u guys. i dont no how much more hp it gave but, in my 97 eldo etc (300hp) i used to have to manually shift it to chirp 2nd but now i can leave it in drive and it chirps 2nd it puls a lot harder and shifts harder. it does kill gas though about 6 mpg maybe haha. thats y i took it out. so they have their up and downs.
 

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My 94 STS'll spin quite nicely in a WOT second gear shift any time i want it to without any type of resistor...you're eldo should do it just as easily
 

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Has anyone tried one of these or this type of modification in general (since no computer mods exist yet:/)
Yes, I realize this thread is old.

It seems that there is alot of negative surrounding this mod. So for those considering being scammed by ebay or would just like to learn more about this mod, I would like to reopen the can of worms and/or shed some light on the subject.

I used the resistor mod on a my Z28 several years ago when it was still a 'free mod' and before the pirates on Ebay got ahold of it and started marketing it as a "chip".

My Opinion/Experience (based on use with '94 Z28):
- MPG was slightly decreased.
+ Performance/accleration was improved. Noticed a tenth or two at the track and the car was raced often and very consistent. It seems to depend on the weather and how much difference there is between the actual temperature and the 'fooled' temperature with the resistor.
+ Little too risk, you can pickup a 5 pack for a little over a $1 at radio shack.
+ Plausible free mod for a vehicle that is stuck with factory tuning. With my camaro, I stopped using it after I had the tuning maximized with edit software by a pro.
~ In my experience, I would only put it in if I was going to be out looking for a race or at the track, due to the decrease MPG. It is however quite easy to take in or out.
~ As previously mentioned, fresh high octane gas is best.
+ Added bonus, any IAT tricker or resistor of 4000 ohms or more (less than 64* farenheit) will keep pcm from testing DTC PO420 or PO430 for catalyst efficiency.
+ Consistent timing


Theory
1. Timing - If your car can tolerate more timing, it can help. If your car cannot tolerate more timing, it will not help and could decrease performance if your knock sensor begins picking up knock (which will decrease your timing considerably). Obviously the best timing control would be via edit software or stand alone engine management, but that is not possible for most of use with N* engines.
2. Fuel - If your car needs more fuel and is running lean due to a few mods, this mod should help.

The chart below will give you an idea of what resistance you are looking for if you buy a resistor. I ran a 8000 and I believe it data logged 36*. Of course if you wanted to reduce timing for Nitrous or something, you could always make the computer think its really hot outside.

IATs vs. ohms resistance
32* 9420
41* 7280
68* 3520
95* 1802
140* 667



Hope this helps

Eric <><
 

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Snake Oil, junk, garbage, scam, get the idea?
 

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I heard that spoiler can give you dyno proven 37.6 hp more. True carbon fiber spoilers are too expensive, rather I made one out of cardboard and duct tape. A very noticeable power!
 

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Don't forget that a 280 c.i. DOHC Northstar in a 4,100# Cadillac and a '94 Z28 Camaro are identical. Same engine, electronic controls, transmission, gear ratios, vehicle weight, frontal area, design end goals, alleeesameee. You can cut and splice resistors, diodes, RC circuits, thermistors with heat sinks, whatever, to your heart's content and never mess up that (unnecessary) thing called a PCM.

All well and good tuning ideas, but they unfortunately don't apply to 99.9% of the questions and answers in a site concerned with streetable Cadillac sedans and coupes.

I'm considering building another Chevelle, but I certainly won't post how to build and tune a 327 OHV in a Northstar Performance forum.
 

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Yes, I realize this thread is old.

It seems that there is alot of negative surrounding this mod. So for those considering being scammed by ebay or would just like to learn more about this mod, I would like to reopen the can of worms and/or shed some light on the subject.

I used the resistor mod on a my Z28 several years ago when it was still a 'free mod' and before the pirates on Ebay got ahold of it and started marketing it as a "chip".

My Opinion/Experience (based on use with '94 Z28):
- MPG was slightly decreased.
+ Performance/accleration was improved. Noticed a tenth or two at the track and the car was raced often and very consistent. It seems to depend on the weather and how much difference there is between the actual temperature and the 'fooled' temperature with the resistor.
+ Little too risk, you can pickup a 5 pack for a little over a $1 at radio shack.
+ Plausible free mod for a vehicle that is stuck with factory tuning. With my camaro, I stopped using it after I had the tuning maximized with edit software by a pro.
~ In my experience, I would only put it in if I was going to be out looking for a race or at the track, due to the decrease MPG. It is however quite easy to take in or out.
~ As previously mentioned, fresh high octane gas is best.
+ Added bonus, any IAT tricker or resistor of 4000 ohms or more (less than 64* farenheit) will keep pcm from testing DTC PO420 or PO430 for catalyst efficiency.
+ Consistent timing


Theory
1. Timing - If your car can tolerate more timing, it can help. If your car cannot tolerate more timing, it will not help and could decrease performance if your knock sensor begins picking up knock (which will decrease your timing considerably). Obviously the best timing control would be via edit software or stand alone engine management, but that is not possible for most of use with N* engines.
2. Fuel - If your car needs more fuel and is running lean due to a few mods, this mod should help.

The chart below will give you an idea of what resistance you are looking for if you buy a resistor. I ran a 8000 and I believe it data logged 36*. Of course if you wanted to reduce timing for Nitrous or something, you could always make the computer think its really hot outside.

IATs vs. ohms resistance
32* 9420
41* 7280
68* 3520
95* 1802
140* 667



Hope this helps

Eric <><
I seen that 99.9% of the replies in this thread are garbage, then I came upon your's.

I agree 100%. You will lose mpg during cold-start warm-up time only. Once your car is in closed loop mode the 02's will compensate for the extra fuel and still give you that extra timing advance.

I also have used one at a track (should be the only people allowed to reply to this thread) and it helped my '05 Dakota by .1 seconds and .5 mph consistantly. Not a huge gain, but for a near-free mod it was worth every penny. Especially since there isn't any tuners availables for that truck.

I take the resistor off the truck in the winter time, but leave it on all summer. During the summer months I gain 2-3 mpg average with the resistor in. During the winter months I lost 2-3, which is why I remove it.

Summary: It helps, but don't expect a huge difference, you're still working with the boring stock pcm.
 

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The effectiveness of tricking the IAT depends on the PCM programming. For example, the LS1 had a timing increase for cool air and a timing decrease for warm air. The H3/colorado/canyon only has a timing decrease for warm air and no timing increase for cold air. With the LS1 and older, if knock was detected, timing was reduced and timing was not added back in until XX more gallons of gas was added and the timing was relearned from the high octane table. The H3/colorado/canyon will always try to maximize timing.

This mod added a couple more degrees of timing on an LS1 and was good for less than 10 hp at WOT, but the problem was knock retard during cruise which lowered timing and hurt gas mileage if the octane was too low, air was actually too warm, etc.
 

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The effectiveness of tricking the IAT depends on the PCM programming. For example, the LS1 had a timing increase for cool air and a timing decrease for warm air. The H3/colorado/canyon only has a timing decrease for warm air and no timing increase for cold air. With the LS1 and older, if knock was detected, timing was reduced and timing was not added back in until XX more gallons of gas was added and the timing was relearned from the high octane table. The H3/colorado/canyon will always try to maximize timing.

This mod added a couple more degrees of timing on an LS1 and was good for less than 10 hp at WOT, but the problem was knock retard during cruise which lowered timing and hurt gas mileage if the octane was too low, air was actually too warm, etc.
Good info! :thumbsup:
 
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