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Cadillac CTS, Black Raven. Name: Car-los
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Doing a sealed enclosure underneathe the rear deck is more work than it's worth. You lose less space in the trunk doing a sealed or ported enclosure and firing it through the ski pass area. I have a "V" so I had to cut the ski area and trim it out. It worked flawlessly. Underneathe the rear decklid is a great place for the amps though. Below is a link to all the pics of my install. I replaced everything in the car along with the factory NAV.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17514

Shane
sorry to ask but what is all the foil for?
 

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It's sound deadening material. Got tired of all the squeeks and rattles. The car has been deadened from the front firewall to the trunk. Quieter than a Lexus now..............well........close.

Shane
 

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CTS
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
I got the installation done today. I just need to do some fine-tuning. All in all, there is about double the bass output compared to the stock subwoofer. I was almost expecting a little more bass response, although this is my first IB installation so I was probably expecting something that wasn't going to happen. ;) It's not bad though, the bass output is a little less than my Infinity Basslink I had installed in my Aurora. I'll just give it some time to break in and for some fine-tuning. Here's the pictures of the completed install.













 

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CTS
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Discussion Starter #26
After some fine-tuning it sounds awesome. The error I had made was that the crossover was set at 200 HZ. I put it down to about 90 and the bass response is very good now. Definately louder than the basslink. ;) I had some coworkers listen to it and NOBODY could believe that I was only running one 10" sub. Everyone thought it was atleast a 12 or 15. The kicker packs an impressive punch once installed properly! I am actually surprised by the response in the IB setup. I had always 'heard' that the frequency response wasn't as good. Seems fine to me, it still hits the lows very well. The only thing I have noticed is that this sub takes a LOT of power. I'm running nearly 300 W RMS to it, and it acts like it wants more power than that. I'm a little leery because I have my gain set to right around 80% right now... I don't want to go any higher. I may have to hook a different amp to it. If I do that, it's going to be mounted to the bottom of the rear deck instead.
 

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CTS
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Discussion Starter #28
just remember gain is not a replacement for power... more a recipie for distortion
oh, I know. ;) That's why I said I'm leerly that the gain is turned up so high to get sufficient power. 80% is probably still safe, although a little bit high. I haven't heard any clipping or distortion from the sub so it appears it's getting clean power. I guess we'll see. ;)

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I am not getting ANY rattling from the rear deck with the kicker installed. I think part of the reason is I put a rubber seal between the MDF board and the back deck, and another gasket between the sub and MDF. I also put weather stripping under the plastic tray that holds the rear integration module, and under the XM module. All the wiring was taped down to keep it from vibrating also. With all these measures it seems to have been enough to prevent any rattles without adding sound deadening.
 

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'06 CTS 3.6L Sport Appearance pkg
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155 Posts
oh, I know. ;) That's why I said I'm leerly that the gain is turned up so high to get sufficient power. 80% is probably still safe, although a little bit high. I haven't heard any clipping or distortion from the sub so it appears it's getting clean power. I guess we'll see. ;)

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I am not getting ANY rattling from the rear deck with the kicker installed. I think part of the reason is I put a rubber seal between the MDF board and the back deck, and another gasket between the sub and MDF. I also put weather stripping under the plastic tray that holds the rear integration module, and under the XM module. All the wiring was taped down to keep it from vibrating also. With all these measures it seems to have been enough to prevent any rattles without adding sound deadening.
I agree with FlyFlip. I taped and secured everything down. At first there wasn't much rattle but after a few months it is getting more noticable. Now my back License plate is rattling. I have to drill 2 holes for the bottom of the plate.

Anyone have any tips for securing the seat belt bolsters? That is were most of the rattling occurs. I can't remove them because of the kids.
 

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'06 CTS 3.6L Sport Appearance pkg
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155 Posts
What do you mean by bolsters? Is that those plastic circles? I have noticed that my actaul seat belt buckle is rattling against the plastic circles on the belt itself.....I just turn it around and pin it against the seat and the rattle stops....
Sorry, maybe I'm calling it the wrong name. I'm talking about the coil where the belt retracts on the rear deck lid. It is made of plastic and metal and seems to bounce around a bit.
 

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99 Cadillac Seville SLS
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64 Posts
Use some silicone caulking in the right places to help put pressure on these parts to get rid of rattle. Good and inexspensive fix
 

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The Mighty Kael, 2004 Black CTS, Every Option
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you can always get a can of spray on undercoating, its basically spray on rubber . good to use in the squeeky spots.
 
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