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CTS
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Discussion Starter #1
I got all the wiring hooked up and all that sort of thing, but the thing I am having a LOT of trouble with is the mounting of the kicker sub in the factory location. None of the bolt holes line up and I can't figure out how to secure the sub. How did you guys who have done this mod do it? I seriously can't figure out a way to secure this thing. I'm horrible at fabrication. Wiring; easy. Fabrication; damn near impossible for me. So.. how did the rest of you do it? I'm stumped! Thanks a LOT of any help anyone can give me!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am using an aftermarket subwoofer. I can see how it would be pretty simple to install a peice of MDF, or plywood to the bottom of the deck, but not the top. Are others installing the MDF inside the trunk, and not on top of the deck?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
After looking at the factory hole a little bit, I don't think that this sub can be installed without cutting some sheet metal because it's not possible to bend the sheet metal enough upward to get a good seal for the MDF against the back deck. I really wish I could see how this person removed, or bent the sheet metal in order to get this setup to work. It doesn't look possible to me without cutting like I said. also, I wonder if his CTS was an older model? Mine has a metal bracket that goes just about to the edge of the hole for the subwoofer. I imagine that this bracket is going to get in the way of the basket. One final thing, how are the stock bolts being used? They're 'welded' to the rear deck. are they being drilled out, and the holes then being used with new bolts? I'm just really frustrated right now and almost wish I hadn't bothered to change from the stock setup, even though it sounds horrible. ;) This is what I'm dealing with below.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think I'm going to put some weather stripping along the very edges of the MDF that I install incase the metal 'basket' around the factory subwoofer opening interferes with the seal between the metal and MDF. Hopefully that will be sufficient to get a good seal. I won't be able to complete this until my day off of work tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have some good news by tomorrow night. ;)
 

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You'll need to cut the factory piece of plastic back there and replace with a 1/2" piece of MDF. It's very simple. When I installed my Kicker I didn't have to bend any of the metal. I've got more pics if needed.

Shane
 

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'06 CTS 3.6L Sport Appearance pkg
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I installed a Kicker CVR and it took a few hours to do. The hole needed to be widened. I used a Roto Zip and it was very easy. The holes will not line up. I drilled new holes and used plastic S brackets to clamp down the sub. My local audio store had them. It sounds great but there is some rattle from the seat belt bolsters. The rear deck has many components that need to be secured. I probably spent more time on that than the install.

Here's a bad pict. I am going to dynamat the heck out of the lid when I find time.
 

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If it were me....and it was a couple of years ago......I would cut the plastic and replace with MDF. No need to seal with weather stripping. Hopefully these pics help.

Shane
 

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'06 CTS 3.6L Sport Appearance pkg
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If it were me....and it was a couple of years ago......I would cut the plastic and replace with MDF. No need to seal with weather stripping. Hopefully these pics help.

Shane
Did you remove your seat belt bolsters? I don't see them in the picts. I would but I need the belts for my kids. Any suggestions on how to stop them from rattling?

You did a nice job with the dynamat. How much did you need to cover the deck?
 

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99 Cadillac Seville SLS
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looking at doing all this to my 99 seville right now. I really want to try to build a box that is supported by the rear deck. Thus not needing a free air sub. Louder and more efficient. I have also been pondering making a ported box and using the truck pass thru to the car as a exit for the port for a custom look.
 

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Cadillac CTS, Black Raven. Name: Car-los
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looking at doing all this to my 99 seville right now. I really want to try to build a box that is supported by the rear deck. Thus not needing a free air sub. Louder and more efficient. I have also been pondering making a ported box and using the truck pass thru to the car as a exit for the port for a custom look.
 

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Doing a sealed enclosure underneathe the rear deck is more work than it's worth. You lose less space in the trunk doing a sealed or ported enclosure and firing it through the ski pass area. I have a "V" so I had to cut the ski area and trim it out. It worked flawlessly. Underneathe the rear decklid is a great place for the amps though. Below is a link to all the pics of my install. I replaced everything in the car along with the factory NAV.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17514

Shane
 
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