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I received my Hotchkis kit but won't be able to install until next weekend at the earliest due to scheduling. (Did get my Potenza RE050A's on!) My kit was short the lube. Rich at Hotchkis got it to me via UPS Next Day Air. That was above and beyond.

You've seen the Eibach bar instructions at FAQ, yes? Looks straight forward. Talked with Hotchkis about their instructions and compared to our FAQ. Front install is the same. The difference is the FAQ installs the rear on stands. Hotchkis recommends on ramps so the wheels are at ride height. FAQ pulls rear bar out the side. Hotchkis says lower the exhaust and the rear bar drops right out. Hotchkis also says NO LITHIUM GREASE in bushings. Use the assembly lube that comes in the kit. Then at next lube use quality petroleum-based chassis grease. Use Marine-grade if operating were it rains a lot.

Post your results OK? I'll do the same if our experience differs, or I'll just ditto yours.
 

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wildwhl said:
For those that have done it - any quick tips on the drilled rotors and Hotchkis sway installs?

I already know the most important one :alchi:

WW
The rear rotors have the E-Brakes (on each side) which run inside the rotors. After I removed the torx retaining nut, I worked the rotor a little off the E-Brake shoes and there is a geared wheel on the inside (toward the rear of the car) that you can turn with a flat blade screwdriver to retract the E Brake shoes so that you can pull off the rotors. I am a novice and it took me about 15 minutes to figure out why the rotor was being so difficult to pull off. The second one went much faster. I also ended up taking the caliper bolts completly out and suspending the calipers with a bungee (so as not to put strain on the lines) while I did the rotor switch out.

The fronts are quick and easy.

Marty
 

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Rotors are easy to remove just make sure you have your parking break off. It's going to require a little bit of muscle to remove the bolts.
 

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Black Beast said:
Rotors are easy to remove just make sure you have your parking break off. It's going to require a little bit of muscle to remove the bolts.
I had my parking brake off - that was the first thing I checked when the rear rotors wouldn't pull right off. They were still tight until I loosened that adjustment wheel which sits inside the rotor - maybe it was just my car?

I agree, the caliper bolts take a 1/2" breaker bar and some muscle.

Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK -

All done. No problems at all. Thanks everyone for the tips. 2.5 hours start to finish for rotors, sways, and putting the spare wheels with winter tires on (Dunlop Winter Sport M3 DSSST runflats).

Comments on the bars - :thumbsup: - I like them a lot.

Comments on the brakes - they look cool ;)

Comments on the Dunlops - crap - I can't get any traction, any gear, at anything over about 3/4 throttle :histeric:

Darn 245's look so wimpy in the rear...and probably just cause they're new and a snow tire - but seriously - my V is dangerous with these tires on! Might need to "detune" it ala V mode for the winter :D
 

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wildwhl said:
OK -

All done. No problems at all. Thanks everyone for the tips. 2.5 hours start to finish for rotors, sways, and putting the spare wheels with winter tires on (Dunlop Winter Sport M3 DSSST runflats).

Comments on the bars - :thumbsup: - I like them a lot.

Comments on the brakes - they look cool ;)

Comments on the Dunlops - crap - I can't get any traction, any gear, at anything over about 3/4 throttle :histeric:

Darn 245's look so wimpy in the rear...and probably just cause they're new and a snow tire - but seriously - my V is dangerous with these tires on! Might need to "detune" it ala V mode for the winter :D
Did you follow the Hotchkis instructions putting the rear on ramps and dropping the exhaust or FAQ-style with stands all the way around?

Thanks!
 
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