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Still Stock 2017 ATS-V 6MT CWT Sedan, Tuned 2016 Explorer TT
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Tire Rack shows that 7.5 turns as a "typical" for a 14x1.5mm lug stud/nut. R compound tires, are obviously not a "typical" application.

Does anyone have a link or a model number for correct aftermarket studs?

This is another solution to consider when using a flat spacer:
gor-26148et.jpg
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-26148ets
Provides an additional 1/4" of thread engagement. It would give me almost 9 turns of thread. I will be giving these a try.
 

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Have you considered Extended Thread lug nuts instead? In the example below you get an extra .25" of threads after the cone seat.

 

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2016 ATS-V sedan 6 speed manual
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Discussion Starter #24
Huh. Never heard of them. These look like the ones Tirerack provided with the wheels I use for winter. I'll have to pull one to see if that's what they sent. .25" equates to 6+mm so that would allow a 5mm spacer with no problem. Looks like a viable (and tons cheaper) solution.

The one question I would have would be the seat since I've never bothered to look carefully - what does GM use, are they all tapered?
 

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I checked the depth of the OEM wheel holes and the 1/4" extension will not bottom out on the hub (or spacer). The only minor concern is that the wall at the extension is only 1/32". It is 0.55" (14mm) stud OD vs 0.62" OD of the extension. I sent this question to the Gorilla product manager, I've conversed in the past, to confirm. But regardless of the answer, this will be my solution. Though the extension has a very thin wall, it is located right at the hub face, where the moment and forces are lowest and will its ability to keep the lug nut tight is the same regardless of the wall thickness. I will be buying a set.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Good info. Browsing the lug nuts on Summit I see there's cone and bulge cone seats - what would the OEM seats be? I'm not at all sure what the difference is.
 

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In fact, according to GMSi, the factory recommended method of changing wheel studs is to do it on the car. Remove the brake rotor and brake disc leaving the hub in place. Remove the old stud with tool CH-43641, which is actually a ball-joint removal tool. The replacement stud is to be installed using a flat washer and an old wheel nut. Using the washer and nut, pull the new stud into the hub until it seats.

Remove the washer and nut. Reinstall the brake disc and caliper.

I should add that subscriptions to GMSi are available to the public and are less expensive than some other legitimate on-line service data such as Alldata and so forth. More information is at https://www.acdelcotds.com/acdelco/action/subscribehome
 

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Got a response from Gorilla.

"That shank can be used to gain back 0.25” of thread engagement, but there should be threads engaging in the body of the lug nut too. The threads will still have the same strength, but there isn’t strength for load. Since that shank doesn’t contact anything or take side load it’s not an issue"

On using these lug nuts on OEM wheels:

"Our Small Diameter lug nut series is only designed for aftermarket wheels with narrow lug nut clearances, so they aren’t recommended for factory wheels without those constraints. They are only 0.91” at the widest point of the cone seat, which would likely be less engagement than your factory lug nut.

On your OEM lug, that shoulder is just the stainless steel cap rolled over the steel base. It’s not structural, just how the 2 piece capped lugs are constructed. What you should check is the diameter of the contact on your factory lug nut seat. If it’s more than ~0.91 you’d be losing seat contact with the smaller lug."


I just measured both the OEM nut and the non-extended Gorilla (the same seat OD as extended) and they are the same .91" at the outmost seat OD. So I plan on using these extended nuts with both OEM and aftermarket wheels, both sets with a 5mm spacer.
20181012_193443 (640x360).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I just measured both the OEM nut and the non-extended Gorilla (the same seat OD as extended) and they are the same .91" at the outmost seat OD. So I plan on using these extended nuts with both OEM and aftermarket wheels, both sets with a 5mm spacer.
What are you using the wheels/spacers for- any chance it's for performance work such as autocross or track? I'd be very interested in hearing your comments after installation and verification of the fit.
 

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What are you using the wheels/spacers for- any chance it's for performance work such as autocross or track? I'd be very interested in hearing your comments after installation and verification of the fit.
With the OEM wheels, its just for the heck of it. A little more width and purely optional. I didn't realize its going to cut my thread engagement in half.
With the aftermarket wheels, the front 9.5" 35mm offset wheel is hitting the strut. So a spacer there is not optional. The same wheel in the back does not need a spacer (sticks out almost too far, as is).
 

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Slicky, what size tire / brand you running up front. You stated earlier 5mm is what you needed to clear ? 18" or 19" rims ?
 

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Slicky, what size tire / brand you running up front. You stated earlier 5mm is what you needed to clear ? 18" or 19" rims ?
They are oem PSS that I swaped from the oem wheels. So the same 18". No issues with the tire that I can tell. Just wheel to strut interference. The wheel is Enkei Raijin.
 
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