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2013 ATS4 2.0t Auto
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

My first post here, I'm coming from the world Bimmers; pulled the trigger on a used 13 ATS (AWD, 2.0t LTG, Auto) last year as I finally I found a budget car that performance meets the luxury in it.

Ever since I bought the car the CEL comes on and goes off once a while. I was extremely busy sending people to work from home so never got a chance to deal with it until a couple of weeks back when I was taking over a semi on a two lane country road and the CEL came on, went into limp mode and rev limiter hit (maxed at 4K rpm) I had to slow down and pull back behind the truck again 馃槴

P06DE : Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Stuck On
What I've done so far:
  • Replaced the Oil flow control solenoid (12670746) from dealer
  • Flushed the oil twice (added Seafoam once)
  • Followed the TSB Number : PIP5247, no particles in the oil pan opening (the black opening under oil pan) https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10114767-9999.pdf
  • I have logged the oil pressure against speed and command, the pressure sensor seems to be functioning properly but I'm not sure of what the pressure has to be: Text Font Handwriting Line Calligraphy
  • Followed this test
  • results came back OK:
  • Text Gadget Mobile device Electronic device Technology Text Gadget Technology Electronic device Electronics
Notes:
There is no oil pressure light ever:
Text Font Screen Technology Electronic device

I am getting P0171 as well but it's not causing the limp (safe) mode as I scanned the ECU right after the limp again today and it was only the P06DE active. Also I'm building a smoke machine so I'll get to the P0171 later once the machine is ready.
Text Font Technology Electronic device

So now I'm stuck like the mysterious solenoid 馃槀
 

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2014 ATS 3.6 Premium RWD, 2016 Corvette Z06, 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Diesel
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Could you re-log that against engine RPM and a second log holding RPM and vehicle speed constant for maybe 20 seconds. It is hard to tell from the chart but it appears you are getting some very erratic variation in oil pressure over some fairly static sections of vehicle speed within that graph.

I don't know whether the variable displacement oil pump in the 2.0T operates in the same manner as the one in my 2016 Corvette with the LT4 engine but it goes through a diagnostics routine a few minutes after each cold start and the indicated oil psi jumps cleanly back and forth about 20 PSI as the pump is commanded from regular to high flow. At no time is the oil pressure anywhere close to as erratic as what your log shows if I am interpreting it correctly as you are showing rapid variations between the limits of 170-450 Kpa (25-65 PSI for those of us used to U.S. gauge calibration).

The 2.0T is used in the Camaro and I am sure those have a full time oil pressure gauge so you might check those forums for typical operating oil pressure.

Rodger
 

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2013 ATS4 2.0t Auto
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Could you re-log that against engine RPM and a second log holding RPM and vehicle speed constant for maybe 20 seconds.....
For sure, I can do that tonight.
but from that chart the spikes are happening when I go WOT. When cruising there is only +/- 20Kpa variating.
TBH I didn't pay attention to the variation, I was looking to see when the Command is set to ON, do I get an increase/decrease in oil pressure or not.
Cheers,
 

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2014 ATS 3.6 Premium RWD, 2016 Corvette Z06, 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Diesel
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Part of the reason for the dual displacement oil pump is to supply the oil jets that help cool the pistons at high rpm/load so the pump should be commanded to high pressure under those operating conditions.

This video of a Corvette Z06 (6.2 also has dual displacement pump) shows the normal variance you get with these dual displacement pumps running at high throttle across the upper RPM range, it will move around a bit but not much.

Maybe someone else can log their normally operating 2.0T under the same conditions and if you don't find the info here, try a Camaro forum.

Rodger
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input.
Here we go, the data are ready:
WOT:
Text Line Design Parallel Font

Steady at 2K and 3K:
Text Font Handwriting Line Design

Text Font Design Pattern Diagram

Half way throttle and then cruising:
Text Font Screen Design Line
 

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2014 ATS 3.6 Premium RWD, 2016 Corvette Z06, 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Diesel
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Thanks for posting those and the pressure vs rpm data looks pretty normal with the only exception being part of the high reading is really high. I talked with a buddy last night that owned a 2.0T Camaro and the gauge only went to 550 kpa for oil and he never hit that even cold while some of your charts are showing peaks of around 650. I don't have any data that shows the maximum you should expect but that sounds high and I wonder if your pressure sensor is reading high? Or was the engine and oil still really cold for these runs?

Rodger
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Rodger for the advice, so this little guy is replaced now
Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive engine part

and I cleaned my valves while I was at it, carbon build up was insane although I cleaned them up 20k km ago.
Auto part Engine Auto part

Anyhow, I'm getting the exact same result so:
A. I replaced the wrong sensor
B. PCM re-flash is in order
C. There is some other valve is involved that I'm missing.
 

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Something I should have asked earlier, do you have the recommended oil viscosity in the engine? I remember seeing a service note that the ECM can set a code due to high oil pressure if a much heavier viscosity oil is being used because the pressure will go beyond what it should based upon the ECM control of the oil pump.

If the sensor is correct, then you may truly have high oil pressure under higher engine RPM conditions. At somewhere around 3500 RPM, the dual displacement oil pump is set to high output on a number of GM engines which would correspond with your tripping the code at higher RPM when you pulled out to pass. I don't have any experience in dealing with failures in this component and I don't know whether the pump has a traditional pressure relief in addition to its variable displacement capability or if an additional flow control regulating valve is used. You might want to do some research into that area. Good luck!

Rodger
 

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I鈥檓 having the same issue, I鈥檝e replaced the oil pressure sensor, oil flow control solenoid, multiple engine oil changes. Oil pump has been replaced. I鈥檝e checked for broken pieces in the oil pan and nothing, I鈥檝e also checked the oil piston nozzles for broken pieces with no luck I鈥檓 running out of ideas, I鈥檝e used the recommend filter and oil. All gm filter and oil. 2014 Cadillac CTS 2.0. Have you solved this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I鈥檓 having the same issue....
Hey
No still in the same boat, but two new theory has come to light:
1- The ECU is messed up. But haven't had time to talk to dealer for a reflash.
2- I also have a P0171 so I smoked out the intake last weekend no leak at all. So ended up doing a compression test and reading:
120, 100, 100, 120 PSI
So I'm hoping the rings aren't blown out, passing compression into the block and causing unstable oil pressure reading 馃槶
So leak down test next week.

Cheers,
 

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Yeah, I鈥檓 only getting the P06DE code, I鈥檓 leaning towards ecu as well because I鈥檝e literally changed every component possible. Engine runs fine other then the code popping up and throwing the vehicle into safe mode and check engine popping up, after clearing runs fine until code pops up. Called my local Chevrolet service advisor to see if this was common and he said he has never seen it before. I鈥檒l do some investigation on computer or maybe seeing if my autel will let me program or update.
 

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Sent the vehicle to the dealer earlier this week. And weirdly my car was 1.5 quarts low on oil. They topped it off I drove it today no check engine and all the monitors set and it passed smog so it seems like this fixed my problem. Weird. Cause i checked the oil multiple times. Did anyone else get there issue fixed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No fix on my side, and i did a few head to heads against F30 328xi, newer type R, and FR-S, aaaand the caddy was no match what so ever....so I decided to drive it until it dies either the transmission or the piston shoots off the block then I'm going to scrap it, put it on Instagram and make sure I don't go back to American made junks again (well other than a Raptor).

We're getting close to -30C so since the CEL comes on randomly I can't use the remote starter all the time so the ONLY ONE advantage that this car had over F30 was the remote start which is out of the window 馃槧

Cheers,
 

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No fix on my side, and i did a few head to heads against F30 328xi, newer type R, and FR-S, aaaand the caddy was no match what so ever....so I decided to drive it until it dies either the transmission or the piston shoots off the block then I'm going to scrap it, put it on Instagram and make sure I don't go back to American made junks again (well other than a Raptor).

We're getting close to -30C so since the CEL comes on randomly I can't use the remote starter all the time so the ONLY ONE advantage that this car had over F30 was the remote start which is out of the window 馃槧

Cheers,
Your compression is alittle low, I鈥檓 thinking it will prbly need a engine. Shouldn鈥檛 be much at a local wrecking yard
 

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Your compression is alittle low, I鈥檓 thinking it will prbly need a engine. Shouldn鈥檛 be much at a local wrecking yard
120, 100, 100, 120 is low. Should be over 135 unless you're at higher altitude.
 

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Compression readings can be a bit of an issue with electronic throttle control engines to the point that you will actually get lower compression readings with a fully charged battery due to the faster cranking speed, this is the opposite of what would happen with an older engine with the throttle held wide open. Normally you would hold the throttle plate wide open to avoid vacuum during cranking to get an accurate test but unless you have a scan tool that will allow you to command the throttle plate open this is a problem. Do NOT try to manually hold it open, the positioning motor may not like that and it will also set a code and potentially prevent the engine from cranking as a protective measure when it senses a stuck throttle plate.

Not sure how the 2.0T will respond but with a lot of electronic throttle plate engines, IF you hold the pedal to the floor it will open the plate enough to provide an accurate compression reading.

Rodger
 

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I鈥檓 having the same issue, I鈥檝e replaced the oil pressure sensor, oil flow control solenoid, multiple engine oil changes. Oil pump has been replaced. I鈥檝e checked for broken pieces in the oil pan and nothing, I鈥檝e also checked the oil piston nozzles for broken pieces with no luck I鈥檓 running out of ideas, I鈥檝e used the recommend filter and oil. All gm filter and oil. 2014 Cadillac CTS 2.0. Have you solved this issue?
Did you solve the ssue? If so, what fixed it?
 

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just went thru this on my sons 2014 ATS 2.0L Turbo. It turned out to be a combo of the oil pump and oil control solenoid. Changed out both and the issue went away.
How difficult is it to change the oil pump? I changed out the solenoid and the sensor but code came back again.
 

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How difficult is it to change the oil pump? I changed out the solenoid and the sensor but code came back again.
I had a shop do it. But the tech told me it was super easy and for the additional part cost he could not understand why Cadillac didn't suggest changing it at the same time as the solenoid. So Cadillac changed out the solenoid and within a day the code was back. Cadillac wanted the same money to go back in and change out the pump so I had a shop locally that I trust do it with my fingers crossed. it's been free of codes ever since.
 
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