Could you re-log that against engine RPM and a second log holding RPM and vehicle speed constant for maybe 20 seconds. It is hard to tell from the chart but it appears you are getting some very erratic variation in oil pressure over some fairly static sections of vehicle speed within that graph.

I don't know whether the variable displacement oil pump in the 2.0T operates in the same manner as the one in my 2016 Corvette with the LT4 engine but it goes through a diagnostics routine a few minutes after each cold start and the indicated oil psi jumps cleanly back and forth about 20 PSI as the pump is commanded from regular to high flow. At no time is the oil pressure anywhere close to as erratic as what your log shows if I am interpreting it correctly as you are showing rapid variations between the limits of 170-450 Kpa (25-65 PSI for those of us used to U.S. gauge calibration).

The 2.0T is used in the Camaro and I am sure those have a full time oil pressure gauge so you might check those forums for typical operating oil pressure.

Rodger

 

Could you re-log that against engine RPM and a second log holding RPM and vehicle speed constant for maybe 20 seconds.....

For sure, I can do that tonight.
but from that chart the spikes are happening when I go WOT. When cruising there is only +/- 20Kpa variating.
TBH I didn't pay attention to the variation, I was looking to see when the Command is set to ON, do I get an increase/decrease in oil pressure or not.
Cheers,

 

Part of the reason for the dual displacement oil pump is to supply the oil jets that help cool the pistons at high rpm/load so the pump should be commanded to high pressure under those operating conditions.

This video of a Corvette Z06 (6.2 also has dual displacement pump) shows the normal variance you get with these dual displacement pumps running at high throttle across the upper RPM range, it will move around a bit but not much.

Maybe someone else can log their normally operating 2.0T under the same conditions and if you don't find the info here, try a Camaro forum.

Rodger

 

Thanks for the input.
Here we go, the data are ready:
WOT:

Steady at 2K and 3K:

Half way throttle and then cruising:

 

Thanks for posting those and the pressure vs rpm data looks pretty normal with the only exception being part of the high reading is really high. I talked with a buddy last night that owned a 2.0T Camaro and the gauge only went to 550 kpa for oil and he never hit that even cold while some of your charts are showing peaks of around 650. I don't have any data that shows the maximum you should expect but that sounds high and I wonder if your pressure sensor is reading high? Or was the engine and oil still really cold for these runs?

Rodger

 

Thanks Rodger for the advice, so this little guy is replaced now

and I cleaned my valves while I was at it, carbon build up was insane although I cleaned them up 20k km ago.

Anyhow, I'm getting the exact same result so:
A. I replaced the wrong sensor
B. PCM re-flash is in order
C. There is some other valve is involved that I'm missing.

 

Something I should have asked earlier, do you have the recommended oil viscosity in the engine? I remember seeing a service note that the ECM can set a code due to high oil pressure if a much heavier viscosity oil is being used because the pressure will go beyond what it should based upon the ECM control of the oil pump.

If the sensor is correct, then you may truly have high oil pressure under higher engine RPM conditions. At somewhere around 3500 RPM, the dual displacement oil pump is set to high output on a number of GM engines which would correspond with your tripping the code at higher RPM when you pulled out to pass. I don't have any experience in dealing with failures in this component and I don't know whether the pump has a traditional pressure relief in addition to its variable displacement capability or if an additional flow control regulating valve is used. You might want to do some research into that area. Good luck!

Rodger

 

I’m having the same issue, I’ve replaced the oil pressure sensor, oil flow control solenoid, multiple engine oil changes. Oil pump has been replaced. I’ve checked for broken pieces in the oil pan and nothing, I’ve also checked the oil piston nozzles for broken pieces with no luck I’m running out of ideas, I’ve used the recommend filter and oil. All gm filter and oil. 2014 Cadillac CTS 2.0. Have you solved this issue?

 

I’m having the same issue....

Hey
No still in the same boat, but two new theory has come to light:
1- The ECU is messed up. But haven't had time to talk to dealer for a reflash.
2- I also have a P0171 so I smoked out the intake last weekend no leak at all. So ended up doing a compression test and reading:
120, 100, 100, 120 PSI
So I'm hoping the rings aren't blown out, passing compression into the block and causing unstable oil pressure reading 😭
So leak down test next week.

Cheers,

 

Yeah, I’m only getting the P06DE code, I’m leaning towards ecu as well because I’ve literally changed every component possible. Engine runs fine other then the code popping up and throwing the vehicle into safe mode and check engine popping up, after clearing runs fine until code pops up. Called my local Chevrolet service advisor to see if this was common and he said he has never seen it before. I’ll do some investigation on computer or maybe seeing if my autel will let me program or update.

 

Sent the vehicle to the dealer earlier this week. And weirdly my car was 1.5 quarts low on oil. They topped it off I drove it today no check engine and all the monitors set and it passed smog so it seems like this fixed my problem. Weird. Cause i checked the oil multiple times. Did anyone else get there issue fixed?

 

No fix on my side, and i did a few head to heads against F30 328xi, newer type R, and FR-S, aaaand the caddy was no match what so ever....so I decided to drive it until it dies either the transmission or the piston shoots off the block then I'm going to scrap it, put it on Instagram and make sure I don't go back to American made junks again (well other than a Raptor).

We're getting close to -30C so since the CEL comes on randomly I can't use the remote starter all the time so the ONLY ONE advantage that this car had over F30 was the remote start which is out of the window 😠

Cheers,

 

Your compression is alittle low, I’m thinking it will prbly need a engine. Shouldn’t be much at a local wrecking yard

 

Compression readings can be a bit of an issue with electronic throttle control engines to the point that you will actually get lower compression readings with a fully charged battery due to the faster cranking speed, this is the opposite of what would happen with an older engine with the throttle held wide open. Normally you would hold the throttle plate wide open to avoid vacuum during cranking to get an accurate test but unless you have a scan tool that will allow you to command the throttle plate open this is a problem. Do NOT try to manually hold it open, the positioning motor may not like that and it will also set a code and potentially prevent the engine from cranking as a protective measure when it senses a stuck throttle plate.

Not sure how the 2.0T will respond but with a lot of electronic throttle plate engines, IF you hold the pedal to the floor it will open the plate enough to provide an accurate compression reading.

Rodger

 

just went thru this on my sons 2014 ATS 2.0L Turbo. It turned out to be a combo of the oil pump and oil control solenoid. Changed out both and the issue went away.

 

How difficult is it to change the oil pump? I changed out the solenoid and the sensor but code came back again.

 

It is hard to tell from the chart but it appears you are getting some very erratic variation in oil pressure over some fairly static sections of vehicle speed within that graph.

Speed Test​

 

I've been dealing with CEL and "engine power is reduced" message on my 2015 ATS 2.0T AWD 125,000km for a couple of months now. My codes were P0011-00, P0014-00, P05CE, P06DE-00. I recently had my valve cover, pcv valves and hoses, vacuum pump and sensor replaced. Car had CEL on before turning car in to mechanic for work. Received car back with codes listed above and reduced engine power message. Car would reach highway speed no problem just very sluggish acceleration especially uphill. When inspecting the engine after having work done I noticed both my VVT valves were still original and quite rusted. Looked weird with the shiny new valve cover and hoses etc so I decided to replace them myself with genuine GM replacements since this is such an easy DIY repair. This was easy enough...minus the brittle cooked in place electrical connectors but I got it done. Still same codes, same issue. I then decided to have the oil control pressure solenoid replaced with the genuine GM one. Still same codes, same issue. I noticed my oil had become quite black very quickly after the valve cover replacement. I took the car to an independent oil change drive thru and did a liquid moly engine flush and a couple of oil changes. I talked to the oil change guy about the issues I was having and he pulled the codes before and after the oil changes. ( codes and reduced engine power remained after ) I asked him about the oil pump issue others have mentioned here but I was hesitant to go there due to cost and it not resolving the issue for everyone. He looked a little puzzled, then reached for the throttle body intake boot, fiddled with it for a minute, then looked at the line up of cars waiting for an oil change. He told me to pull off the boot and give it a clean. So I did my research and learned you're not supposed to touch these electronic throttle bodies unless the ignition is turned on with the engine off and gas pedal to the floor to hold the the throttle plate open for cleaning. My wife did the gas pedal stepping for me and to my surprise, throttle plate did not move. It was very dirty. I gave it a spray with throttle body cleaner without touching it. It still did not move. So at this point I'm suspecting throttle position sensor built in to the throttle body and accelerator pedal position sensor ( built in to the gas pedal ) aren't communicating. I replaced both. Did a throttle position relearn before testing. Reduced engine power message is now gone and the car drives as it should with proper acceleration. MY CEL light remains on but I don't have a scanner to pull the codes at the moment. I'm hoping CEL light goes out eventually but not holding my breath. I should note, my gas pedal was absolutely caked with road salt on the back side of the unit where it meets the floor, as was the carpeted area behind it. Salt appeared to have penetrated the unit through holes in the back but the sensor connectors did not appear to be corroded as they dangle high enough away from salt exposure. I must say, this pedal is a stupid design the way it "grows" out of the floor.

 

So ypu were getting a p06de from a dirty throttle body?

 

Nope throwing all these parts at my car sure made it run a lot smoother but the code remains and engine power reduced message comes and goes. I threw in the towel and took it to a dealer. Was told oil pressure is slightly low and exhaust camshaft is not phasing. A new oil pump was recommended for $3500 CAD$. Was told it would not be guaranteed to fix the problem. When I asked what would have caused the problem tech speculated that aftermarket valve cover might not be channeling the oil properly. I think debris got in my oil during the valve cover swap and made it's way to the oil pump. Dealer note on the invoice says to inspect the check ball. A few oil changes made the reduced engine power message appear less frequently. Longer highway drives make it go away for longer. Cruising stop and go in traffic brings it back. Others have noted here the oil pump did not fix the problem so I'm going to pass on that too much $$$ and the car drives fine other than the rpm suddenly dropping if you rev past 4K when the message is displayed. I replaced the valve cover because all the pcv valves and hoses needed replacing and some of the valves are built in to the cover. Saw one on fleabay for a good price and it sure stopped the seeping oil. Was getting spots on the driveway before this not one spot since the valve cover change.