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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm thinking of servicing the STS myself next month....

Only porblem is i don't know the first nor the last damn step to changing oil. :cookoo:

I know if i say that " but I'm only 16" would be a horrible exuse, so thats why I'm turning to you guys

also Should i switch to mobil 1 10w-40? I know its a bit on the expensive side but what the hell! Only the best for my caddy...

So how bout' it guys..will yah teach me step by step...from one caddy owner to another ehh?

Oh BTW if you guys didn't know, I'm driving a 1994 STS w/101k mls on the odometer

THANKS a Million guys!
 

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2005 CTS-V, 1994 Infiniti Q45
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Well what all do you want to do.... If changing the oil is all your gonna do thats a no brainer...... Get engine hot, drain oil (unscrew bolt on the pan), let drain for 10-15 mins, put plug back in, replace filter (unscrew old and put on new), and add 7.5qts of oil.... Simple..... It may be better for you just to take it into jiffy lube for $20 and tell them what oil you want.....

Mobil one is a good choice, but I prefer valvoline products. You can use their durablend, which is a synthetic blend, and it works very well and has a nice detergent package in it (if the oil hasnt been regularly changed at 3000 miles or 90 days)... Synpower is also good and has a good detergent package also... Synpower is about $5 cheaper/case at walmart..... Also, any filter is good (OEM is good) except for fram... They are notorious for having a cheap construction... Anything else like purolator, etc is good..... Even the walmart brand is a good choice.....

If you decide to DIY, youll need to get an oil filter wrench and a drain pan... All those things can be gotten at walmart for under $10..

Open up your oil filler cap and see what you can see inside..... If its pretty clean (you see gray shiney metal) then you can go straight to synthetic. If not (you see some black stuff), then I would recommend going for the durablend.....
 

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I'm with Wes.. Take it to the dealer or a lube place that's well known. I can't see for the resonable price the reason to mess with it. Also, they will use the oil you ask for but may charge a little more. Just my thoughts.. :)
 

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I agree.... Even if you wanna be picky, you can get all your stuff (oil and filter) and pay the guys at walmart $10 to do it for you!!!
 

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94 ETC,97 STS
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Mike, I like to do everything myself. I would do it if you have somewhere to work on it. The cost of the tools isn't much more than having it done.

There are web sites with horror stories about quick lube experiences. Of course that doesn't happen to everyone or the quick lubes would be out of business.

There are some oil change threads around if you wnat to look for them (on this forum).
Everybody has an opinion...Mine is use good quality,name brand(pennzoil,QS,Castrol) dino (regular not synthetic), change it and the filter every 2500 miles and your engine should last 200K miles. If your want to stretch oil changes to 5000 or more, then use synthetics.
 

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I used to do it all myself, too. I learned a lot of good stuff. Then I got away from doing it myself and I never had any problems at the quik-lube places. I think I was about 25 when I quit.

When I bought my Prelude, I decided that NOBODY was going to touch my baby except the certified Honda people every 30,000 miles. I'd do all the maintenance myself. And I did it well. Not only did I do all the routine stuff, I added a few performance mods and a really nice sound system.

But it got old. My back started hurting. Crawling up under a hot car was not as much fun at age 36 as it was at age 16. When I figured up how much money I had saved by doing it myself over the course of the first three years, it only amounted to about $750. Looking back, I would've GLADLY paid it in one lump sum.

Your Cadillac is more complicated than my Prelude is. I'd stay away from the undercarriage it if it were mine.
 

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For $40 I can get oil lube and tire rotation , fluids topup and usually some grift from the Caddy dealer.All in 1/2 hour and then you can also take a car out for a test drive.
Changing your own oil ,unless you have a place close by to get ride the oil it can be a pain in the ass.
 

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Just like what was said earlier. Have the engine warm. Jack the front end up a bit. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan, when the oil stops comming out, replace the plug. Unscrew the filter, let that drain. Now, when you put the new filter on the first thing you MUST do is to stick your finger in the NEW oil and rub a thin layer around the rubber gasket on the new filter then put it on hand tight. Lower the car, fill it up, run it for a minute or 2 to fill the new filter and check it again. Once it's to the full line then you're done! Good luck.
 

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airbalancer said:
For $40 I can get oil lube and tire rotation , fluids topup and usually some grift from the Caddy dealer.All in 1/2 hour and then you can also take a car out for a test drive.
Changing your own oil ,unless you have a place close by to get ride the oil it can be a pain in the ass.
I agree.... I would DIY it, but the pain of having to dispose of it makes me wanna spend the extra money to have it done....
 

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1968 Cadillac Sedan deVille, 1994 Chevrolet G20
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Also remember, Northstars are pretty thirsty when it comes to oil. I think they take 7 or more quarts. Plus add in about a quart for the new filter.
 

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Your GM engine was designed, developed and validated with an ACDelco filter. They test and know that those work and that they are compatable with the lube system under all operating conditions. They do not validate any other brand of filters so if you use them you are helping the filter marketing company validate their product from what I've seen.....

For a fact, about 90 percent of the debris that the oil filter will ever catch is created during the first few hundred miles of breakin. The main component of breakin debris is cast iron particles off the cylinder walls from the rings burnishing the final hone pattern/finish in the cyinder bore. It is imperative that the filter catch this debris as cast iron particles imbedded into the bearings will cause certain failure of the engine. That is why the factory filter that is installed on your engine is so important. Let me repeat, They have tested and validated the Northstar and 4.x engines (and all GM engines) with the ACDelco filters......

Some of the filter discusions are somewhat moot as the filters installed later in the engine's life do not have to do nearly as much filtering/work but they still have to function and not inerrupt/restrict or impair the oil flow due to poor design/manufacturing/materials.The very fine filter medias that some filter makers market sound good but they can creat a negative effect in that they creat additional oil bypass due to addded restriction. That is why the ACDelco "gold" filters were dropped and were never installed at the factory !!! The Northstar engine, in particular moves a lot of oil thru the lube system (about 12 gal per minute at 6000 , hot) so the filter has to be able to flow to not cause bypass. Catching the very small particles ( 3 to 4 micron) is not as important as you might think as the oil film thickness in the bearings is always greater than this so the particles cannot do any damage.
 

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isnt 10-40 for trucks usually? most gm's they recommend 5-30, but the northstar i believe they recommend 10-30. someone correct me if im wrong.

i usually do it myself in the summer, take it in in the winter, our garage isn't even insulated!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dubya said:
isnt 10-40 for trucks usually? most gm's they recommend 5-30, but the northstar i believe they recommend 10-30. someone correct me if im wrong.

i usually do it myself in the summer, take it in in the winter, our garage isn't even insulated!

My mistake it is 10w-30 and 5w-30 during really cold weather conditions
 

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I had my oil and filter changed at the dealer yesterday, $38.17!! I always ask them to check all the fluids. They do and top off what needs to be. They never charge for the check and top off either. I'm usually there for 30 minutes. I do the 3k mile change in my vehicles.
 

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Dubya said:
isnt 10-40 for trucks usually? most gm's they recommend 5-30, but the northstar i believe they recommend 10-30. someone correct me if im wrong.

i usually do it myself in the summer, take it in in the winter, our garage isn't even insulated!
LOL, gee that's too bad not having an insulated garage! I don't have a garage at all. I did mine out side on the ground just last week! :coolgleam
 

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There are a few things you should do if you change your own oil. Pick up a new drain plug because you don't know the condition of the one you're removing. If the one you take off is screwed up, you don't want to run around to find a new one while your car's in the air. When you remove the oil filter, make sure the big rubber seal comes off with it. You don't want to double seal when you put the new filter on. After you're done, reset the oil life counter.
 

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At the dealerships around Phoenix you would waste at least a half a day waiting around... For those of you who can in & out in 30 minutes, I envy.
 
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