Idler pulley just broke off, the half of the bolt is stuck in the engine and there's no room for a drill. 01 eldorado with 113,000 maintained very well, my first and only car that I would like to keep for life but I would prefer not to remove the engine now. I was thinking of finding someone to weld a smaller head on the end of the bolt. Any advice, and can someone tell me how to drop the engine please.
Idler pulley snapped off 01 Eldorado engine
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Yep - remove the fenderwell liner, clear the area and use a proper sized EZ-Out and drill bit to remove the bolt shank. If you mess up the existing bolt hole threads, repair the hole with a HeliCoil.
IF you know a gearhead with a MIG/TIG welder he can do the new bolt head trick. Disconnect the battery and ground the welder close to the work.
IF you know a gearhead with a MIG/TIG welder he can do the new bolt head trick. Disconnect the battery and ground the welder close to the work.
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What about for my 95 Seville SLS the idler pulley bolt snapped off today how's my luck with doing this task myself please answer back need help this is my daily driver
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Posts #2 and #3.
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91 Posts
I've tried everything from dropping cradle to lifting engine and still can't get bolt out can I just bypass this pulley with a different size belt and still be ok
That idler increases the belt wrap (contact surface area) at the alternator and A/C compressor pulleys. The system NEEDS that wrap to avoid belt slip and subsequent burnout.
Belt slip and burnout ??? The A/C compressor uses 5 to 7 hp when clutched in and the alternator uses 3 to 6 hp depending on battery charge state. Those power demands require as much belt contact as possible.
That said, I do not recommend a jury-rig using a shorter belt.
![Belt routing and pulleys.gif]()
Belt slip and burnout ??? The A/C compressor uses 5 to 7 hp when clutched in and the alternator uses 3 to 6 hp depending on battery charge state. Those power demands require as much belt contact as possible.
That said, I do not recommend a jury-rig using a shorter belt.
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91 Posts
So I can't avoid paying someone to get this bolt out that's flush to the block is what you are saying. ......I'm in Jacksonville fl and it's kinda hard to find someone who can fuck with it without tearing it up or kicking my head off
Have a professional do the job. Your other single-post thread on this same subject that you resurrected - dead for 13 years - has been closed.
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Ok cool so you think dealership is the right place to go or my local shop who I just pay to do the work or dealership that should have everything including knowledge and tools necessary for the job I'm at a loss right now with Corona virus and low work hours I need help and I'm not afraid to say it I'm damn near crying my baby is just sitting here looking pitiful and I can't do anything
A local Mom & Pop shop should be able to do the work. A dealership will rape you with labor charges.
I empathize with your situation, but we're all in the same boat, one way or another. Needing to get a car back on the road ASAP is a nasty complication.
I empathize with your situation, but we're all in the same boat, one way or another. Needing to get a car back on the road ASAP is a nasty complication.
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91 Posts
Ok thanks submariner409 I got the pulley ordered now I have to wait on a spot at mechanic shop
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