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I don't see a problem with the engine temp, if that's what you're suggesting by the photo.

The car is at idle ... the fans come on at 224f.
So, the car is showing a temp of 221f ... when the fans come on, the car should go down
to around 213f.

Seems acceptable to me .... not a sign of HG failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I never see more than 210f on the two good ones we have.
224f is near the danger zone.
Now i do have one out here with the head gasket problem that runs 220f most of the time.
 

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Nothing wrong with 221. That's well into the "normal" zone for pretty much all modern engines, Cadillac or not, aluminum or iron. My old 4.X's as well as the iron block engines in my last job's pickups run up to mid 220's or so idling on a warm day. None of them have cracked/warped components, nor have had gasket problems. Most of my 4.X's have/had reached 200k miles.

Besides, the hotter and engine is, the more efficient it becomes :cool:

Cadillac never should have included an actual temp readout or gauge on their newer cars. People get too paranoid. Idiot lights would have been good enough - or at least something like the oil pressure gauges on Fords from the last 20 years where it's really just an idiot light in disguise (it stays at the 12 oclock position and doesn't move unless there is no pressure - which pegs the needle to the left). Notice how nobody with a "c"-body Cadillac notices or cares about the engine temperature until they have an actual problem.

Any gasket or longevity problems that Cadillac engines have had do NOT stem from incorrect operating temp. It is in-line with the industry and therefore is beneficial and necessary to achieve competitive efficiency. Any problems stem from design or material flaws down the line, which fail because they are flawed and cannot be repaired by a lower operating temp.

Remember when the early CTS-V guys noticed rear-end problems? Was it blamed on incorrect power output and remedied by downtuning or did they focus on correcting the rear end?
 

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My '94 Eldo normally runs a little under 210, but I have seen it creep into the 220's. Remember, the fan doesn't even come on until it hits 224.
 

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Do you know where I can get some info and threads on a 1951 cadillac? Trying to restore this car myself and having some issues that I can't figure out????
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good discussion:)
http://hellafunctional.com/?p=629
Also
The pressure cap on a cooling system is the key to raising the boiling point of the 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water.
For every pound of pressure cap rating the boiling of point of the above mixture raises 3 degrees.
If you had plain water in your cooling system with a 15 pound pressure cap the water would boil @ 257 degrees.
If you had a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water the coolant would boil @ 265 degrees with a 15 pound cap.

I think the Northstars shut down at 260. Is that correct?
 

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Nothing wrong with 221. That's well into the "normal" zone for pretty much all modern engines, Cadillac or not, aluminum or iron. My old 4.X's as well as the iron block engines in my last job's pickups run up to mid 220's or so idling on a warm day. None of them have cracked/warped components, nor have had gasket problems. Most of my 4.X's have/had reached 200k miles.

Besides, the hotter and engine is, the more efficient it becomes :cool:

Cadillac never should have included an actual temp readout or gauge on their newer cars. People get too paranoid. Idiot lights would have been good enough - or at least something like the oil pressure gauges on Fords from the last 20 years where it's really just an idiot light in disguise (it stays at the 12 oclock position and doesn't move unless there is no pressure - which pegs the needle to the left). Notice how nobody with a "c"-body Cadillac notices or cares about the engine temperature until they have an actual problem.

Any gasket or longevity problems that Cadillac engines have had do NOT stem from incorrect operating temp. It is in-line with the industry and therefore is beneficial and necessary to achieve competitive efficiency. Any problems stem from design or material flaws down the line, which fail because they are flawed and cannot be repaired by a lower operating temp.

Remember when the early CTS-V guys noticed rear-end problems? Was it blamed on incorrect power output and remedied by downtuning or did they focus on correcting the rear end?
Good points, all.

The characteristic cooling map for the BMW M62TU V8 engine does not even begin to open the thermostat until 110*C or 230*F :shocked2:
 
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