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'06 DTS LUX III, '12 Chrysler 300 Limited
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone, I have a 2006 DTS LUX III with 48K on it, I just got it 2 weeks ago and notice a slight humming that occurs at 50mph, loudest at 55-57mph but goes away by 65mph+

I once had a '95 Chevrolet Caprice LT1 and the bearings went at 195K, and it sounded similar to this but wayyy louder and greatly increased my fuel consumption and could tell it was really slowing the car down.

It has Bridgestone Serenity Turanza tires on it that are roughly 2 1/2 years old now, I'm hoping it's the tires...

I'm concerned that these bearings on my just purchased DTS are starting to go, and I would hate to have that happen at such a young mileage and age :(

Thanks everyone I appreciate the wealth of knowledge available on this forum!
 

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2011 DTS Platinum
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I had to replace the drivers side hub/bearing on my 2006.. but it had 110,000 miles and I got ran into a big curb by a stupid woman that wasn't watching where she was going.

It's possible that a bearing is going but 48,000 is really low moles for a bearing to go bad.
I would lean towards the tires being the issue...

Texas Jim
 
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MW94, welcome to the forum! I'm sorry you're having this concern on your newly purchased DTS. Visiting your dealer for service may be your best next step ify our concerns persist, so their specialized technicians can view your humming frustrations firsthand. Please let me know if you would like any assistance working with a dealer; I'm available to contact them anytime on your behalf. I'm reachable via email at [email protected]!

Katie
Cadillac Customer Service
 

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It sounds like a wheel bearing. Do about 40 mph on a straight road. When you hear the noise try turning the wheel
a little to the left or right to see if you can play with the noise. By doing this you take the load of the bearing and
the noise goes away.

You never said if the noise was from the front of rear.

Have the tires been rotated recently
 

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'06 DTS LUX III, '12 Chrysler 300 Limited
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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the replies!
I will go drive it again today and do the steering thing to see what happens, I start my next semester of college tomorrow so I have lots of errands to run (quite possibly the youngest DTS owner here at 18 years old, can't help it I appreciate luxury and refinements than the drifters and ricers my colleagues drive)

I can't exactly locate the source of the humming but I will definitely pay more attention to it today.
According to the documents I got with the car (Gotta love elderly people that keep all documents) the tires were last rotated in May of 2012 at 37,XXX.
 

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2011 DTS Platinum
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If the documents are correct... that's over 10,000 miles since the tires have been rotated.
They are OVERDUE to be rotated again.
When they are rotated the next time... the noise may very well change also.
 

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Dts performance
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Mw94 that's how I felt when I was 18 (21 now) I graduated and got a 2006 dts performance I've had her for 3 years now and she still on the road
 

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2006 DTS
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Hi everyone, I have a 2006 DTS LUX III with 48K on it, I just got it 2 weeks ago and notice a slight humming that occurs at 50mph, loudest at 55-57mph but goes away by 65mph+

I once had a '95 Chevrolet Caprice LT1 and the bearings went at 195K, and it sounded similar to this but wayyy louder and greatly increased my fuel consumption and could tell it was really slowing the car down.

It has Bridgestone Serenity Turanza tires on it that are roughly 2 1/2 years old now, I'm hoping it's the tires...

I'm concerned that these bearings on my just purchased DTS are starting to go, and I would hate to have that happen at such a young mileage and age :(

Thanks everyone I appreciate the wealth of knowledge available on this forum!
The noise should not be from the bearings, especially at this young mileage, unless the vehicle's been in a flood affected area. Did you get it inspected before the final deal? I would still recommend a thorough inspection (including rotation on a lift) as it does not cost much. The noise is more than likely from the tires; i.e., out of round, tire(s) manufacturing flaw, lack of timely tires rotation, not properly inflated, etc. Get the tires rotated and then test drive it.
 

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'06 DTS LUX III, '12 Chrysler 300 Limited
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Discussion Starter #9
@jazoo

As an aircraft mechanic in the making I inspected the vehicle myself by putting it on a lift at the dealership and found it to be in good clean condition, as per everyone's recommendations I definitely will take it in for a rotation balance and when the wheels are off I will try to inspect the hub and bearings, does anyone here know what to look for with a bad hub/bearing? It would make it a lot easier if I know what discrepancies to look for! :D
 

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First thing to do is grab it at 12 and 6 and see if there is any play in it.
If there is... replace it.

This is what mine looked like with the wheel off.
I would also look for rusty colored DUST around the center of the hub... where the nut is.
If the bearing is going bad, a lot of the time it will be that way.
The odd thing was... mine showed no EXTERNAL sign of being bad.. very little of the rusty colored dust.
It had only been a very slight noise for a short time... maybe that explains it.
The hub / bearing is fairly easy to replace.
.
.

.
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'09 CTS 3.6L Black Ice/Ebony
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Anyone that says a bearing can't go bad in 50,000 miles is FOS. Any part on a car can go bad at any time. Just because some typically don't go bad until a given mileage, doesn't mean they won't go bad before.

There are a few ways to check this.

Driving the car in a nice empty parking lot, get up to speed to where you hear the noise. Turn the wheel back and forth so you transfer weight to each side of the car. If you turn left, and the noise gets louder, the right bearing is bad. If it goes away, the left bearing is bad.

Jack up the car and spin the tire. It should spin freely for quite some time and be noise free. Also pull at the 12 and 6 and 9 and 3 locations on the tire for play as stated above.

If you have an automotive stethoscope, or just a large flat blade screwdriver, you can spin the tire while placing the end of the screw driver or stethoscope to listen for noise. A good bearing will have a relatively quiet operation. A bad bearing will sound like gravel being rotated in there.
 

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'06 DTS LUX III, '12 Chrysler 300 Limited
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Discussion Starter #12
Alright, since I am really busy with school now, I didn't have time to take it to the shop and get it rotated and inspect the hub, but with the car on the ground what I can tell is that after driving 9 miles in fairly light traffic, the rim was TOO HOT TO TOUCH! I couldn't leave my finger on it for more than 2 seconds, It is unusually hot. I remember on my Caprice that's what happened, the rim was too hot to touch. Also my right front TPMS sensor failed, I'm assuming it's because of the immense heat discharged from the bad bearings.
Does anyone have any tips for taking out a wheel hub? Any wires I should be careful to not pull on too hard or are the brake calipers a special design that requires special tools?
I'm mechanically inclined and if it doesn't seem to intimidating (I don't wanna break something else and pay more money for it) I think I'll tackle it on myself lol.
I cannot thank you all enough for your help and suggestions!
 

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I did both of mine myself.
I am 68 years old, overweight and definitely out of shape... unless you count ROUND as a shape...

There is only ONE WIRE... see the picture above.

It wasn't bad at all.
If you want to call me, I will be glad to tell you how I did it.
There are 3 TORX screws that hold the brake rotor on.
There are 2 bolts that hold the caliper on.
There are 3 bolts that hold the hub on and of course, the axle nut in the center of the hub.

Here is a link to the hub...

http://www.amazon.com/Timken-513179-Axle-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B000BZ53DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357949776&sr=8-1&keywords=513179
 

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2006 dts
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I did both of mine myself.
I am 68 years old, overweight and definitely out of shape... unless you count ROUND as a shape...

There is only ONE WIRE... see the picture above.

It wasn't bad at all.
If you want to call me, I will be glad to tell you how I did it.
There are 3 TORX screws that hold the brake rotor on.
There are 2 bolts that hold the caliper on.
There are 3 bolts that hold the hub on and of course, the axle nut in the center of the hub.

Here is a link to the hub...

http://www.amazon.com/Timken-513179-Axle-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B000BZ53DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357949776&sr=8-1&keywords=513179
round as a shape lol!
 

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GreaseMonkey said:
Anyone that says a bearing can't go bad in 50,000 miles is FOS. Any part on a car can go bad at any time. Just because some typically don't go bad until a given mileage, doesn't mean they won't go bad before. There are a few ways to check this. Driving the car in a nice empty parking lot, get up to speed to where you hear the noise. Turn the wheel back and forth so you transfer weight to each side of the car. If you turn left, and the noise gets louder, the right bearing is bad. If it goes away, the left bearing is bad. Jack up the car and spin the tire. It should spin freely for quite some time and be noise free. Also pull at the 12 and 6 and 9 and 3 locations on the tire for play as stated above. If you have an automotive stethoscope, or just a large flat blade screwdriver, you can spin the tire while placing the end of the screw driver or stethoscope to listen for noise. A good bearing will have a relatively quiet operation. A bad bearing will sound like gravel being rotated in there.
I have a 2008 CTS, I think the bearings are bad... making noise. How much would the dealer charge to fix the right front bearings?
 

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'41 67, '66 75, '02 Deville-L, DTS, DTS-L, XTS, '08 Escalade
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Each dealer is going to be different but probably all in the same ballpark. My '09 DTS just had both front bearings replaced under the powertrain warranty at 62k miles. The service manager told me that the dealership charges in the neighborhood of $650 per bearing ($1300 for both).
 

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Each dealer is going to be different but probably all in the same ballpark. My '09 DTS just had both front bearings replaced under the powertrain warranty at 62k miles. The service manager told me that the dealership charges in the neighborhood of $650 per bearing ($1300 for both).
$1300 dollars is outrageous for replacing the front hubs and bearings.
The hub and bearing is a little over 100 bucks each and with the right tools, you can replace it in an hour... EASY...
 

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06 Cadillac DTS
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I just had my rt. front replaced at a non dealer garage here in Leesburg with a Timken for $159.95 + tax. Took about 40 min. including the test drive. For another $79.95 they did both front brakes.
Norm
 

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'41 67, '66 75, '02 Deville-L, DTS, DTS-L, XTS, '08 Escalade
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$1300 dollars is outrageous for replacing the front hubs and bearings.
The hub and bearing is a little over 100 bucks each and with the right tools, you can replace it in an hour... EASY...
The question was how much does the dealership charge if you were paying out of pocket. Of course it's cheapest to do it yourself. Next cheapest is a small independent shop because they don't have the overhead that a dealer has.

I don't think it's outrageous to pay more to have the dealership perform the work. Many people find good value in having an authorized dealership / repair center perform the repairs.
 

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The question was how much does the dealership charge if you were paying out of pocket. Of course it's cheapest to do it yourself. Next cheapest is a small independent shop because they don't have the overhead that a dealer has.

I don't think it's outrageous to pay more to have the dealership perform the work. Many people find good value in having an authorized dealership / repair center perform the repairs.
But half the time the monkeys at dealerships are young kids getting paid 10$ an hour. So you never know
 
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